Skara

It's manufactured by Invader Gear, and by my experience with them, it should withstand some abuse. The US woodland set I bought 6 years ago hasn't faded yet.

Last Sunday's game was a bit crap. A few questionable "misses" from really close and in general I wasn't enjoying it. Also decided to get rid of the Helikon TMR, not a bad rig by any means, it's just that my priorities have shifted and it doesn't fit the bill anymore. In the meantime I borrowed an HSGI SureGrip belt from a friend to try out, I've been thinking about building a belt kit for a while especially for those 8h+ games where mobility and weight saving is key.

Can't go wrong with an Airtech Studios universal adapter, I use it on my MP5 and AK midcaps, works a treat

That lever doesn't push the remaining BBs up into the unit, it's just there to prevent BBs from falling. Whenever I'm done playing I always release those BBs, turn the gun upside down to fire the one in the chamber.

If the unit is particularly bad, yes, but by the way forces are applied, it should be very, very hard for a rotary unit to unwind itself.

And because a rotary hop can't unwind itself with use like a traditional 3 gears hop does.

Not necessarily, some gearboxes now come with microswitches without any sort of electronics, which is a bad move because microswitches are way more fragile than regular switches. A too long nozzle will prevent the gun from feeding, not firing in FA. And the opposite will lead to air leaks and power drops. Anyway, @Picklerick90what do you mean by full auto? Multiple, distinct gearbox cycles or simply that it fires more than one BB at the time? Is it possible to have a clear, detailed video of the issue?

He knows his stuff, but in some cases I think he goes over the top with ridiculous arguments (fitting a Maxx unit takes less time and brain cells than making a gearbox feed and seal on a warhead motor, that is undeniable, yet he is willing to go great lengths to fit a warhead but won't bother doing slight adjustments to fit a Maxx, for some obscure reason) Back on topic: Are you on a tight budget? ZCI Do you care about squeezing every bit of performance out of your gun? Maxx

Best M4 hop unit, once you get past a few compatibility niggles. Whoever says otherwise is just wrong.

Mhm...Venice... A decent 5h drive for me, the article talks about legal issues with the place so I expect it to stay abandoned forever. Playing in there might be cool, but I don't think anyone really wants to own such place. Plus with our Justice system it's basically asking for trouble. Safety hazards everywhere, getting the place back on track is gonna be unimaginable levels of expensive and after that, it's gonna be a nightmare for insurance. Also, if a burglar or a random dickhead decides to break in and injure himself doing so, he can sue the fuck out of the owner (and the owner's gonna lose 101% of the times, go figure). I'd class it as "a place that couldn't" regarding Airsoft.

It's another certified Ares moment. Hop units are supposed to be on the loose side, so that the spring(s) can press it against the gearbox casing. Filing the hop unit can be tricky as if not done correctly it may lead to alignment issues, you may end up with the unit slightly tilted to the side. When I had mine, I kept the stock hop unit and modified a tensioner to fit inside, granted I had a flat hop, not a maple leaf but the concept still applies.

V3 gearboxes are a pleasure to work with, swapping a nozzle is a relatively simple task. Take pictures of everything you do so you can backtrack when reassembling (or when you don't know where X bit goes), also be aware that the combat union nozzle is *TIGHT* against the cylinder head, doesn't affect performance but might be annoying.

Most likely the ETU trigger board is dead (how surprising, huh?). If I were you I'd sell the ETU++, ditch the G&G trigger board and get myself a nice Perun Hybrid (which is just as expensive as a G&G ETU, but a gazillion times better)

AAP's nozzle is proprietary, you're better off with a WE spec router, even better if you can find AW red routers

Won't be less expensive, but at least your money will go in the right parts. TDC: wobbly, useless, needs replaced with a Hadron anyway. Barrel: completely unnecessary, stock TM barrel is perfectly fine, so is the STTI Hop rubber: they come FILTHY from the factory, though this does not really affect performance. It's €8 anyway for a new one. Metal slide: useless, expensive and adds a bit of, again, unnecessary weight. All the springs and moving parts on the TM are infinitely better, smoother operation and will last 10x longer. The springs on my SSX23 fucked themselves after less than a year. That doesn't work unless fully assembled, and at that point it's longer and wider than the TM. Back to the OP: Get a TM Mk23, leave it alone for now as it's perfectly useable out of the box with the exception of the hop up adjustment being a tad annoying. At a later date get a Hadron TDC (it's more quality of life than anything else) and maybe a new hop rubber.

Now try the same with a 400mm barrel

Yup, I also have a Combat Union unit that is essentially the same, but shorter. Unfortunately that one doesn't fit unless I go mad and mill out a chunk of metal from the outer barrel. Might keep it just in case I decide to build a vityaz of some sort. Legit the most terrifying feature an AEG could ever have.

CM.045's current state: Sprinkeld some obnoxious Retro Arms parts: And a new hop up chamber to test: It's missing an optic rail of some sort and a different buttstock (debating between a simple buffer tube adapter or a Zentico PT-1). And a spare upper handguard I can bolt a tape switch onto.

Not really. Yours is very, very vague, almost "how long is a piece of string" vague. This is what I mean. You already have a no MED "sniper rifle", which you don't seem to enjoy (if you were, you wouldn't have made this thread). Then you ask for a no MED "sniper rifle". That you already own. And that you don't like. You can get away with a basic M4, a good air seal and a good hop rubber, while retaining the fun switch. HPA if you can afford it and your site has the logistics to keep you going (compressor/fill station). As you can see there are a million + 1 possible answers to your "reasonable" question. No need to go full new age feminist in here. Not a good start. For silly, completely unnecessary "advice", Facebook and Reddit are great places where the various Skylar the bedroom techs will always tell you to use PTFE and sorbo pads and that high speed motors are better. I suggest you rephrase the question, this time with more details on what you actually want.

I wouldn't, most of them are full of elitist fucks who recommed a stupid expensive build no matter what the original question is, or whatever flavour of the month their favourite celebrity runs. It's the bolt action equivalent of those videos of gearboxes with pistol grips and a battery attached with a voiceover on how the gun feeds every single round at 700 RPS and never breaks. To the OP: If you want a "DMR" style replica, then go for it. I have never seen an M14 internally so I can't comment, but an SR25 style replica that uses a v2.5 gearbox would be a good start (avoid Ares and G&G as they use a regular V2 box but with an absurdly long nozzle). If a 7.62 replica is not essential, you could go with a Steyr AUG replica, it's easy (and fun) to make stupid quiet.

Another protip: Test sound and motor height with the lower receiver installed, in some cases (most of them AcHkChUaLlEeE) the receiver will slightly pull the grip away from the gearbox. If you don't take this into account when shimming/adjusting the motor, your gun will always sound like shit. Don't need to put on all the crap, you just need the grip, rear and flora pins.

Nope, it does not sound okay. Either the motor is too high or the bevel gear is shimmed too low. Or a combination of the two. Also it's an Ares gearbox so it's shit by default.

Hard to quantify. Even two guns with the same exact parts will have different energy outputs. Also depends on your cylinder/barrel volume ratio, generally a longer barrel will boost energy output but only until a certain point, after that you'll experience a decrease. What's your gun's spec?