Skara

It's normal. The nozzle stays retracted when "at rest". Nothing to worry about.

I'm definitely gonna fry something, so yeah, I'll just send the motor back to have it fixed. I need 20cm long wires. Lmao. It's also gonna be dummy expensive.

Had a quick look this morning and I think I can get the connectors to sit along the gearbox, kept in position by that stupid sheet metal thingamajig. Tonight I *might* try to disassemble the end bell and see how it's made. If I feel confident enough I'll try and wire it myself, if it's an absolute mess I'll just order a new ESC with wires installed. As for the other motor, I think I'll leave it as it is.

If compression parts seal well then your problem might lie in the nozzle/hop rubber seal. As others have said, check your nozzle, if it's shorter than the stock or if it's overall shorter: make sure it's fully extended into the hop rubber, grab a torch and shine it down the muzzle. If you see light coming from the hop rubber lips, it's too short. Also please don't use metal nozzles. Actually don't use metal compression parts at all!

Not all hope is lost. Mailed Warhead and they told me they can repair/replace the ESC. I was thinking, since the short motor is going to permanently live in my AK, and since the only other modification I might make to it is HPA and I don't see myself going HPA anytime soon (too many logistical bollocks to sort), I am considering getting the motor tabs swapped out for wires, so I can have the actual connectors sitting halfway through the motor cage (will have to check if the pistol grip can handle the extra bulk), thus greatly reduce the chances of me snapping something. Shit quality graph below. I'm also considering doing something similar on the M4 though the motor placement makes it a thunderbitch to properly design. I can modify both the Titan and Perun Hybrid wirings to have interchangeable "motor ends" and have dedicated ends depending on what motor I want to fit. Not that I'll be constantly swapping them every other day, that is. What do you guys think?

Great. Now one of the tabs on the AK motor just snapped. Out of nowhere.

SHS M90 is what's in there. Probably not a true M90, but this is the chrono reading from 5 minutes ago, on a 7.4v Which btw is too hot and needs a second tooth knocked off the sector gear.

I want to *at least* try to make them work. If I can't, I'll then focus on the ak and revert to the SHS for the M4

Sorry, not spending another €70 on an inferior motor. Ball ache ftw!

Joined the AssBook group, posted my question, now people instead of helping are questioning that my guns can do 0.98J on a short stroked M90 setup. Many useful, much entitlement. I now remember why I don't bother with FB groups anymore.

I made a thread on upgrading a T-11. Haven't had a TAC in my hands, from what I've seen though it appears to be a very good rifle, although heard of some QC issues. A VSR gun can be turned into a fine shooter without spending a fortune on it, essentially you need a good hop rubber, a consistent method of applying pressure (say a TDC mod) and removal of any possible air leak. The AA T-10/T-11 series of rifles already comes with a nice 90° trigger and you can, with the right mods, set it up to fire at 2.2J with a relatively soft spring. Mine for example on a cut down M100 can pump out 1.5J on 0.4g bbs, and that is with a 300mm inner. If I were to install the stock barrel (430mm) I don't know what power output I'd have.. All this considering a humongous 24mm airbrake.

General advantage is a pressure distribution that covers a larger area instead of focusing on a single strip. I say use them without fear of messing up anything. Back when I ran flat hops, at one point I was running a standard hop rubber (without shaving down the little mound inside the rubber) with a flat tensioner and it worked great!

E&L one piece cylinder + cylinder head: The piston head is mushroom type, if I use a regular piston head, will it fuck up the AOE? From pictures I've seen of so called "silent" cylinder heads they seem of the same dimension as regular cylinder heads. Yay or nay?

I WANT MOAR! Nah, 23 is fine-ish, 20 on the M4 seems a touch low but heh, I'll check the shimming in a minute.. On a side note, I've been looking for polymer cylinder heads for the AK and holy shit I can't find anything outside of a vfc one and a couple of V2 heads (I know they fit V3s too).. everything else is crappy aluminium that only wants to crack your gearbox shell lol.

For real though, I like my guns to be able to stand prolonged abuse on chonky batteries, but then I use them on 7.4s... This way they'll last a lifetime

you mean this? I knocked it up in 30 seconds on a random meme generator website. To get the best Fairchild A-10 Thunderbolt II feeling you need massive overvoluming for starters, which the Firehawk/ARP guns do very well with their silly short barrels. Then, if you can find it, an ARP plastic amplifier, those things work a treat! Failing that, any Noveske clone will do. I have a KA amplifier but it's not very effective. Oh, you need silly RPS too for maximum BRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRT

I Like to overengineer my guns.

13:1 running on solid bushings, that's why it's odd. If I were using 18:1s then a 18/20 RPS on what's considered a high speed motor would be completely fine. Anyway I will open it up again tonight and reshim, just in case I did anything wrong (doubt it tbf, the gun ran flawlessly for more than a year in this configuration!)

From pissed to disappointed again. Managed to sort the M4 by yeeting the delayer chip and shortening the tappet plate by about 3mm, power is now consistent and on par with the SHS HT setup. Did drop 0.08J but that's most likely because of the new hop rubber. Anyway it's 0.92J which is perfect as it was a little bit too close to the limit before (legit 0.99J). Still puzzled about the 2 RPS increase 😕 so yeah might join the FB group and ask there! Cycle time in semi is stupid, literally feels like it's always on precocking.

Gun testing game today. Took the tournament M4 with its new Warhead motor for a spin and it performed fine, snappier than the SHS HT I was running and 2/3 more RPS from barely 18 to 20/21, also it had some FPS consistency issues (now sorted, shortened the tappet plate fin and fucked off the delayer chip, feeds fine on both high caps and midcaps) and overall dropped 0.08J from 0.99 to 0.90/0.92, most likely caused by the new hop rubber (ML super macaron to replace the MR I had, both 70°). Anyway, games went relatively well, the first three games it was experienced players defending and newer/younger attacking, this just to teach them a thing or two. Then we started mixing as per our routine. Gotta be honest, I've never shot so few rounds in a day lol, even when sniping I fire more basically all single shots in some kid's ass because they weren't paying attention to their surroundings... Also it was cold because yesterday it actually snowed 😕 and there was a little bit left throughout the field.

So I got to quickly test them and..... I'm disappointed. The AK now does 23 RPS on a 7.4v battery (it did 20 with the stock motor) but somehow the power has dropped to 0.3J whereas before it was doing 0.99... The M4, does 20 RPS with the warhead and last time I checked it was doing 22 with the SHS. If I plug a 11.1v in it does 30 but then the power dramatically drops because the nozzle can't keep up (this I knew already). I'm pissed, to say the least, because they're not cheap. Both motors are marked "M", does it stand for high speed (36k) or did I receive two standard speed ones?

MOSFETs, depending on which flavour you buy, do all sorts of different things: Mainly they delay the inevitable trigger contact wear and tear by bypassing the contact partially or entirely and relying on said contact just to give an input signal. As you go up in prices they start to have more and more features, like battery overdischarge protection, active brake, precocking, cycle detection all the way to integrated coffee machine and portable sofa. The higher priced ones come with magnetic/optical sensors that read the selector plate, sector gear and trigger to determine where they are, they can limit the cycles to a definite number or can reduce the ROF by certain percentages.. I would argue they fall under the "reliability" side of mods but they can also be thunder cunts and stop working without any particular reason.

Check shimming, check for any snagging of moving parts (nozzle, piston, tappet plate), good neo magnets motor or brushless. Check and fix air leaks. Replace the piston if needed and every worn part. Done, really.

Generally when I sell a gun, I take many pictures of the insides + one/two videos of chrono readings and general test fire (dumping a full high cap so I have plenty of footage), plus I save the whole conversation (+ pictures/videos/voice messages). I still have the whole footage from when I sold my Ares Honey Badger, Striker and ARP-9.. Also I'll be 101% honest, if a buyer comes up with "I sent the gun to a tech and he said X" I demand video proof of the whole inspection process by said tech. Otherwise it never happened.

As with all things Airsoft, the word "standard" doesn't really apply... I've been using Lonex flash mags (Metal stanag version, not the polymer one) since I got back to the game in 2015. They fit and feed in every gun I slap them into, G&G, G&P, TM, Ares, ICS, Specna/Dboys/Evolution/Saigo, King Arms, custom made lowers, VFC, you name it.