Skara

I also have a T11, I replaced the piston and spring but the spring guide is still the stock AA plastic one. What is that spacer block behind the spring guide? I don't remember having one (albeit I haven't taken it apart in a while, so I might have it and never noticed)

Sorry for disappearing, lately I've been struggling to find the time to do anything but basic survival functions and working like a mule. Had a look at tactical kit and I now remember why I don't have an Ammo Hub yet, fucking €50+ postage! (thanks again, Brexit) It'd be much cheaper for me to book a flight to the UK, buy it from TK and fly back home! So with that out of the way, I started browsing for alternatives, and I came across this. The description states that it takes inserts, I sent them a mail asking what type of inserts it takes, and for more detailed pictures and measurements of the internal compartment. Should it take Spiritus inserts, and should it fit 3x 5.45 AK mags, I think I have found the base rig! Now let's pretend for a moment that all of the above is true, I would then be looking at actual inserts: For MP5/Glock mags I can use a regular Spritus/Viper SMG insert (which I already own). It's okay for extracting mags but not exactly ideal to reindex (it's just elastic so it tends to close itself when empty). I've seen Kydex inserts made by TMC that should fit (it's 200mm wide apparently, just shy of 8 silly units of measure); For AK mags, the issue lies in the locking lips, they tend to snag on everything they come in contact with, and it's the main reason why I looked at TACOs in the first place, the plastic liner keeps the tabs from snagging and make extraction/reindexing very quick and convenient. There are a couple of US made inserts that fit the bill, namely the Hugo Industries and Enamel Pie inserts, but I don't think they can ship to EU and even if they can, I'm gonna get buttfucked by customs. So I'm looking at EU made products, or even a homemade bodged solution.

As per title, I'm looking for two chest rigs, this because I have just sold my TMR. Nothing wrong with the rig, it's very good and I will always recommend it to people, it's just that I've shifted my priorities and want to explore different options. Now, the thing is, I need two to accommodate different platforms (AK and MP5/Glock mags), to be used in conjunction with my FRV belt so I was thinking: - For the AK rig, to buy a molle panel of some sort (probably 6x3 or 8x3) and use 3 Taco style pouches (I like Templar's Gear pouches a lot). A bit old school. - MP5/PDW/PCC rig I was considering a placard style rig like a spiritus mk5 or a First Spear A1 ammo hub from our friend @TheFull9, with a kydex insert of some sort. not the most economical of routes, but it'll get me three chest rigs in total, which should cover all my needs. + I need to buy pouches for the hsgi belt anyway. Suggestions? Am I doing it right?

I use WE/AW mags with red AW routers, they are definitely more efficient than AAs. Sometimes I couldn't get a full mag worth of gas with AA mags.

The hop shouldn't twist, it's locked to the outer barrel via two screws, and the outer barrel is locked into the upper via another two screws. Remove the upper (there is a big black button on the back of the gun, right below the bolt, push it forward and lift the back of the upper) and check for damage on the trigger parts (specifically the hammer, it's rather weak and it's, in most cases, the first thing that breaks). Also try with a different magazine because AA mags are subpar.

Or switch to a shorter but tighter barrel, a 247mm one will sit flush with the 14mm CCW threads while keeping the power up.

It's manufactured by Invader Gear, and by my experience with them, it should withstand some abuse. The US woodland set I bought 6 years ago hasn't faded yet.

Last Sunday's game was a bit crap. A few questionable "misses" from really close and in general I wasn't enjoying it. Also decided to get rid of the Helikon TMR, not a bad rig by any means, it's just that my priorities have shifted and it doesn't fit the bill anymore. In the meantime I borrowed an HSGI SureGrip belt from a friend to try out, I've been thinking about building a belt kit for a while especially for those 8h+ games where mobility and weight saving is key.

Can't go wrong with an Airtech Studios universal adapter, I use it on my MP5 and AK midcaps, works a treat

That lever doesn't push the remaining BBs up into the unit, it's just there to prevent BBs from falling. Whenever I'm done playing I always release those BBs, turn the gun upside down to fire the one in the chamber.

If the unit is particularly bad, yes, but by the way forces are applied, it should be very, very hard for a rotary unit to unwind itself.

And because a rotary hop can't unwind itself with use like a traditional 3 gears hop does.

Not necessarily, some gearboxes now come with microswitches without any sort of electronics, which is a bad move because microswitches are way more fragile than regular switches. A too long nozzle will prevent the gun from feeding, not firing in FA. And the opposite will lead to air leaks and power drops. Anyway, @Picklerick90what do you mean by full auto? Multiple, distinct gearbox cycles or simply that it fires more than one BB at the time? Is it possible to have a clear, detailed video of the issue?

He knows his stuff, but in some cases I think he goes over the top with ridiculous arguments (fitting a Maxx unit takes less time and brain cells than making a gearbox feed and seal on a warhead motor, that is undeniable, yet he is willing to go great lengths to fit a warhead but won't bother doing slight adjustments to fit a Maxx, for some obscure reason) Back on topic: Are you on a tight budget? ZCI Do you care about squeezing every bit of performance out of your gun? Maxx

Best M4 hop unit, once you get past a few compatibility niggles. Whoever says otherwise is just wrong.

Mhm...Venice... A decent 5h drive for me, the article talks about legal issues with the place so I expect it to stay abandoned forever. Playing in there might be cool, but I don't think anyone really wants to own such place. Plus with our Justice system it's basically asking for trouble. Safety hazards everywhere, getting the place back on track is gonna be unimaginable levels of expensive and after that, it's gonna be a nightmare for insurance. Also, if a burglar or a random dickhead decides to break in and injure himself doing so, he can sue the fuck out of the owner (and the owner's gonna lose 101% of the times, go figure). I'd class it as "a place that couldn't" regarding Airsoft.

It's another certified Ares moment. Hop units are supposed to be on the loose side, so that the spring(s) can press it against the gearbox casing. Filing the hop unit can be tricky as if not done correctly it may lead to alignment issues, you may end up with the unit slightly tilted to the side. When I had mine, I kept the stock hop unit and modified a tensioner to fit inside, granted I had a flat hop, not a maple leaf but the concept still applies.

V3 gearboxes are a pleasure to work with, swapping a nozzle is a relatively simple task. Take pictures of everything you do so you can backtrack when reassembling (or when you don't know where X bit goes), also be aware that the combat union nozzle is *TIGHT* against the cylinder head, doesn't affect performance but might be annoying.

Most likely the ETU trigger board is dead (how surprising, huh?). If I were you I'd sell the ETU++, ditch the G&G trigger board and get myself a nice Perun Hybrid (which is just as expensive as a G&G ETU, but a gazillion times better)

AAP's nozzle is proprietary, you're better off with a WE spec router, even better if you can find AW red routers

Won't be less expensive, but at least your money will go in the right parts. TDC: wobbly, useless, needs replaced with a Hadron anyway. Barrel: completely unnecessary, stock TM barrel is perfectly fine, so is the STTI Hop rubber: they come FILTHY from the factory, though this does not really affect performance. It's €8 anyway for a new one. Metal slide: useless, expensive and adds a bit of, again, unnecessary weight. All the springs and moving parts on the TM are infinitely better, smoother operation and will last 10x longer. The springs on my SSX23 fucked themselves after less than a year. That doesn't work unless fully assembled, and at that point it's longer and wider than the TM. Back to the OP: Get a TM Mk23, leave it alone for now as it's perfectly useable out of the box with the exception of the hop up adjustment being a tad annoying. At a later date get a Hadron TDC (it's more quality of life than anything else) and maybe a new hop rubber.

Now try the same with a 400mm barrel

Yup, I also have a Combat Union unit that is essentially the same, but shorter. Unfortunately that one doesn't fit unless I go mad and mill out a chunk of metal from the outer barrel. Might keep it just in case I decide to build a vityaz of some sort. Legit the most terrifying feature an AEG could ever have.