Skara

Hello, 1) Depending on which flavour of MOSFET/FCU you buy, it does much more than simply prolonging the trigger contacts life. Most notable features are cycle detection and active brake, they make sure the gearbox stops its cycle in the same spot every time and mitigates lockups; More "high end" units will have precocking, binary fire, adjustable levels on both AB/Precocking, adjustable trigger sensitivity, but these functions are mostly for hardcore CQB use 2) Generally, yes, except for ARES guns, they're shit and their EFCS is equally as bad, avoid. Depends on where you play though, if you only play at woodland sites in full auto, an FCU isn't strictly necessary but still nice to have, even if you're a beginner; 3) Definitely, avoid shady stuff like KWA, Ares, weird shaped guns with non standard gearboxes (Cyma SVD and VFC MP7 come to mind). Every gun will break at some point, tolerances and quality of parts matter but it's still a question of "when", not "if"; 4) "upgraded out of the box" doesn't really make any sense. Parts that the manufacturer installs in the factory, even if fancy, don't count as "upgrades". Also most "upgrades" are shit anyway because bad quality - bad installation - bad QC so you may end up replacing them anyway. To answer your specific question, a VFC based Cyma AK will be an inexpensive gun that you can upgrade (for real) later on. I'd also stay clear of anything with a barrel length greater than 10/12" since this parameter matters sod all in airsoft, in some cases a longer inner barrel gives nothing but troubles; 5) it's just as easy as your average M4, once you accept the fact that AK magazines are shit (regardless of the brand) and won't feed on high RPM builds.. don't ask how I know . Externals are heavier and generally require a hammer + dremel combo to properly fit, but look infinitely better than the average instagram operator M4.

But then I'd need a Matrice drone Problem is, that's even more expensive at 9k base (this one was 5k base + 4k accessories)

That is because by installing the delayer chip you caused timing issues. What was happening inside your gearbox was that the piston was being released while the nozzle was still travelling forward (a delayer chip, well, delays the tappet plate release point and in most cases it anticipates its pickup). Since the system wasn't sealed (nozzle needs to insert into the hop rubber to seal) you'd lose air and get inconsistent, lower FPS readings. 10 FPS is still 3 m/s which means your air seal still isn't optimal, but that's a whole different story.

Absolutely not related to Airsoft, I just felt the need to flex. DJI Phantom 4 RTK survey drone. Along with its RTK-2 ground GPS station.

The AEG thread is pretty much "standard", any AEG specific handguard will fit. What I would worry about is the base of the outer barrel, in some cases the outer is too chunky and the barrel nut can't slide all the way to catch the threads (G&G handguards are known for doing that, super tight barrel nuts that don't fit anything but their own outers)

Accuracy and range is mostly a compression/hop setup thing. You need consistent "volume" output and a good hop up rubber/patch that gives consistent spin to the BB. The first can be easily addressed, it's mostly a matter of lubrication and replacement of o-rings (except for the nozzle, you may want a new one and it's an easy swap), the second is where it gets interesting: You have four parts: Hop unit; Tensioner (or nub); Hop rubber (or R-Hop patch); Inner barrel The only requirement I have for my hop units is to have a rigid hop arm (the main reason why I use Maxx units), it's more consistent and always applies the same amount of pressure. The same applies to tensioners, nowadays concave tensioners are the way to go (either embedded into the hop arm or a separate piece like the Maple Leaf Omega) since they affect a larger area on the hop rubber than regular, tube shaped ones. Hop rubbers come in all different shapes, materials and forms, it's mostly a matter of testing and finding out which one your gun likes the most, I've had good experiences with Maple Leaf Macarons. The same applies to hardness, most people like 60° rubbers, I had the best results with 70° ones. Inner barrels don't need to be fancy, they need to be clean and straight. Given that your gun is a G&G Combat Machine I would still replace the stock one as it's horrible and made of pressed tinfoil, luckily for you ZCI makes some affordable 6.02mm steel barrels that are good quality too! Generally I found that wider barrels are more consistent, but ymmv

Lies. When I had the SSX I could barely get two mags worth from a single gas fill (that's 50 bbs). TM Mk23s can easily push 80/90 shots from a single fill because well, TM and tolerances and shit.

I guess that's KWA for you. I had a KWA G19 that had roughly the same performance, out of a full magazine (25 rounds if I'm not mistaken) it could fire about 10 before running out of gas, and that was in summer when it's 30°+ here.

Yes, if you go BRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRT on the highest pressure gas you can find, like most plebs people do I second TM pistols, they just run and run and run, provided you feed them the right gas for the environment (green gas in winter, duster/1.0 in summer). AAPs are fun and inexpensive, however don't go mad on full auto unless you plan on replacing the hammer set with a CowCow.

Hear me out: Cyma P90; Dedicated Perun FCU; Novritsch hop unit (yeh, novritsch, I know); Prommy 6.05 barrel; R-Hop or rubber of choice; Internally you have the choice of using 13/12:1 gears and a nice High Torque motor or keep the stock 18:1s and plug a 36k Warhead in, short stroked by 4 with an SHS M100 spring to keep 1J energy; Finally, magazines, get a nice Laylax box mag, 1x Lonex M4 flash mag and go to town You're welcome (yes I actually want to build this thing in the near future)

2 weeks later update: Still haven't found anything suitable except for another Italian company that "specializes" in cloning existing designs. They make their own version of the Mayflower UV gen IV, Spiritus Mk4 and Mk5 rigs (this one with two pouches instead of one, for some reason). In the meantime, I've looked around at various options in order to build a belt kit, or rather, a belt ecosystem. The idea is to use a velcro inner belt with various outers, ranging from a simple duty belt, to my FRV, to a full on battle belt + suspenders setup, each one for a different application (duty belt will only have a dump pouch attached, FRV belt will be used in conjunction with a pistol and the battle belt will most likely be a standalone system for longer games). - duty belt: will most likely buy a warrior one, it's cheap enough and will mostly serve as a protective layer for the velcro inner, alternatively I can buy a loop backed belt and use that one instead; - FRV belt: it's good as it is right now; - battle belt: unsure on what base to use, for now the top two contenders are Templar's Gear (PT-4 belt sleeve) and Direct Action (Hornet belt sleeve). Both can supposedly be strapped to a hook inner belt to prevent shifting. Harness will be Templar's, pouches 4x Templar's Gear tacos (front, two per side), Helikon dump pouch (rear middle) and a couple of Templar's Gear GPs (kidney area, right besides the dump). Might add a nalgene pouch at some point for quick access to water. thoughts on this?

Sorry for the mega necro, but I am in the same situation, whenever I tighten my grip the gun becomes whiny. I checked and there is slack between the grip and the motor, so I can't figure out how sanding the inside of the grip might help with this. Did you ever manage to solve this @Asomodai? For the record, tried with the OEM cyma grip, a Cyma US palm clone and an E&L grip.

Bought a few things over the last few days: Direct Action Dust MkII backpack; HSGI micro grip belt liner (hook Velcro version for my FRV belt); Prommy BC 6.05 barrel for the tournament gun; New nozzle for the AK; Ticket To The Moon hammock straps and sleeve (yes, I do hammock camping from time to time); A set of Mission Spec RackStraps Enhanced (padded shoulder straps for chest rigs) from the US of A.

Today was fun, 7 people on the field which meant more games and a good laugh. Decided to take the AK which wasn't the best performer, it's a bit inconsistent in semi auto for some reason (inconsistent velocity and accuracy) but spot on in full auto ? Speaking of full auto, 25 RPS on a 7.4v is nice but mags can't keep up, so I will have to lower it down (thinking 16:1 or 18:1 gears) and check why everything goes to shit in semi. Also lost a piece of my antenna, it was relatively cheap but still annoying to waste money like this.

Sorry for disappearing again!!! Managed to see one of those BTG rigs at the national finals last weekend (October 8-9th) and they're well made, the only problem is the velcro lining, it's hook & loop instead of just loop, so no spiritus compatible inserts unless I ask them to make a one off for me. Which, judging by how they answer their emails (they don't), might not be feasible. @TheFull9I appreciate your help but it's still going to be silly expensive for just the placard (with the method you suggested I'm paying double VAT + it's going through customs anyway), so I'm trying to find alternatives first and, shall I fail, I will end up buying directly from TK.

Leupold LTO Trackers are great for both cat rescue and airsoft. The problem is that they're discontinued (because the guys at Leupold are fucking retards) and hen's teeth levels of rare. I've been after one for a while now...

you what? Are you removing the whole trigger every time? You can simply slide the spring guide stopper down! Also, it could be that you haven't seated the spring guide correctly during reassembly, take it all apart and re-seat it.

I also have a T11, I replaced the piston and spring but the spring guide is still the stock AA plastic one. What is that spacer block behind the spring guide? I don't remember having one (albeit I haven't taken it apart in a while, so I might have it and never noticed)

Sorry for disappearing, lately I've been struggling to find the time to do anything but basic survival functions and working like a mule. Had a look at tactical kit and I now remember why I don't have an Ammo Hub yet, fucking €50+ postage! (thanks again, Brexit) It'd be much cheaper for me to book a flight to the UK, buy it from TK and fly back home! So with that out of the way, I started browsing for alternatives, and I came across this. The description states that it takes inserts, I sent them a mail asking what type of inserts it takes, and for more detailed pictures and measurements of the internal compartment. Should it take Spiritus inserts, and should it fit 3x 5.45 AK mags, I think I have found the base rig! Now let's pretend for a moment that all of the above is true, I would then be looking at actual inserts: For MP5/Glock mags I can use a regular Spritus/Viper SMG insert (which I already own). It's okay for extracting mags but not exactly ideal to reindex (it's just elastic so it tends to close itself when empty). I've seen Kydex inserts made by TMC that should fit (it's 200mm wide apparently, just shy of 8 silly units of measure); For AK mags, the issue lies in the locking lips, they tend to snag on everything they come in contact with, and it's the main reason why I looked at TACOs in the first place, the plastic liner keeps the tabs from snagging and make extraction/reindexing very quick and convenient. There are a couple of US made inserts that fit the bill, namely the Hugo Industries and Enamel Pie inserts, but I don't think they can ship to EU and even if they can, I'm gonna get buttfucked by customs. So I'm looking at EU made products, or even a homemade bodged solution.

As per title, I'm looking for two chest rigs, this because I have just sold my TMR. Nothing wrong with the rig, it's very good and I will always recommend it to people, it's just that I've shifted my priorities and want to explore different options. Now, the thing is, I need two to accommodate different platforms (AK and MP5/Glock mags), to be used in conjunction with my FRV belt so I was thinking: - For the AK rig, to buy a molle panel of some sort (probably 6x3 or 8x3) and use 3 Taco style pouches (I like Templar's Gear pouches a lot). A bit old school. - MP5/PDW/PCC rig I was considering a placard style rig like a spiritus mk5 or a First Spear A1 ammo hub from our friend @TheFull9, with a kydex insert of some sort. not the most economical of routes, but it'll get me three chest rigs in total, which should cover all my needs. + I need to buy pouches for the hsgi belt anyway. Suggestions? Am I doing it right?

I use WE/AW mags with red AW routers, they are definitely more efficient than AAs. Sometimes I couldn't get a full mag worth of gas with AA mags.

The hop shouldn't twist, it's locked to the outer barrel via two screws, and the outer barrel is locked into the upper via another two screws. Remove the upper (there is a big black button on the back of the gun, right below the bolt, push it forward and lift the back of the upper) and check for damage on the trigger parts (specifically the hammer, it's rather weak and it's, in most cases, the first thing that breaks). Also try with a different magazine because AA mags are subpar.

Or switch to a shorter but tighter barrel, a 247mm one will sit flush with the 14mm CCW threads while keeping the power up.