Skara

If you want a good, not too expensive, cool running motor, get a ZCI 22tpa. I have one in my PDW (literally the only gun I run on 11.1s) and the cycle time in semi auto is stupid, not quite warhead levels of stupid but certainly more stupid than a 16tpa SHS HT motor. Okay mine pulls a 13:1 gearset at 25 RPS on a 11.1 but if semi auto is your goal, it's the way to go (without dishing for a warhead). I have yet to experience overheating in that thing, even after some binary spam it stays cool. Regarding the mosfet, the AB++ is not far from the Hybrid in terms of price. I'm sure it's a good mosfet (haven't tried one myself) but from my experience with Hybrids, you can't really go wrong with them.

I might have phrased it wrong, let me reiterate. I still want one because I like the scout rifle concept and, in my eyes, it's an iconic rifle. Wouldn't be using it as a proper sniper rifle though, If I were to get one I would slap a low powered long eye relief scout optic (plain irons or a small red dot as an alternative), lower the power to no MED levels and enjoy the challenge.

I want one, but at the same time my T-11 is pretty much bang on and I'm afraid it won't get used nowhere near as much as the price tag requires.

I run a Midland shoulder mic (model is MA-26LK) with a simple single ear plug routed through a shoulder strap either on my chest rigs or on my backpacks. Simple, cost effective (~€30) and doesn't involve bulky headsets that will only make you sweat more. EDIT: whatever you buy, go for Kenwood 2 pin connectors

'nother tournament done, this one was short and we ended up 2nd out of 12 teams, with just a handful of points separating us from both the first and third places. Not bad considering that out of 8 people, three were at their first event and two others haven't played in years. My gun stopped feeding on the last objective for no reason, BBs were being loaded into the hop unit but they couldn't be pushed out, so I suspect the piston head came loose inside the gearbox (which seems to cycle as normal, nozzle moves as intended), it's one of those cases where a pistol would have been nice to have but again, for the remaining 99.98% of situations it's just extra weight and bulk. Nonetheless it was a fun event, shame that it was a 3h drive to and 3h drive from, for a 2.5/3h event.

Smol question: Does anyone know of a magazine base plate that doesn't "ride up" as much as the stock TM plate? Asking because the TM plate is a little bit too thick on the top (where the guide rails for the magazine base are) and prevent the magazine release from engaging the mag cutout. I know the rubbery ranger plates I'm using on my AAP mags work but they're a bit shit and some of them are broken already despite me not having dropped those mags, not even once by accident.

If ALL the compression parts inside the gearbox seal (so: piston head to cylinder, cylinder to cylinder head, cylinder head to nozzle in its fully extended position) then the issue is most likely around the hop up area. Check if your nozzle to hop rubber seal is good, install the gearbox with the nozzle at its resting position (fully extended) inside the gun, then shine a light down the muzzle and check if there is any light coming through the hop unit's feed tube. If there is, then your hop rubber is worn/torn or the nozzle is too short. Replace accordingly. If your nozzle doesn't have an o-ring, replace it regardless, make sure to measure its length with a caliper and buy accordingly. DO. NOT. USE. PTFE. TAPE. TO. SEAL. COMPRESSION. PARTS.

One last update: Took a file to the 5ku barrel and slightly lowered the guide for the small round pin on the hop up chamber, now the barrel fits. All it needs now is the hop set and dot zeroed, then it can fuck off back in the drawer for the next 2 years or so.

I may, or may not, have left a soaking wet gun inside its bag for a while last winter..... Maybe..

Tokyo Marui gen.3 G17 Internals are pretty much stock except for a Maple Leaf 50° Decepticon, Maple Leaf I-Key, Maple Leaf hop wheel and TTI Adjustable Trigger Externals are a repro ALG Defense 6 Seconds mount + ALG Flared Magwell, Aim-O T1 @frontsighthere it is And a rail update on my tournament Specna C-08, with a repro DD MFR XS 9"

I run a FRV Tailoring belt, but heard their customer service has gone to shit and they're not getting their orders shipped. Shame, as the belt I have is fucking nuke proof! C2R, TacBelts UK and Deadly Customs all make great quality shooter belts too, and they're UK based! Failing that, if you want a more "standard" looking battle belt, I may recommend the HSGI Suregrip, in my opinion it's the closest thing to a shooter belt without actually being a shooter belt. The rest is, imo, either too old technology or vastly overpriced due to import fees.

I have come to the conclusion that it's a timing issue: The gun cycles so fast in semi compared to a regular brushed motor that the gearbox just can't keep up. I fixed the issue on my M4 by yeeting the delayer and shaving down maybe two millimetres off the tappet plate fin, I got lucky because the gun still feeds fine on both flash mags and midcaps. My ak wasn't so lucky, I have installed a "high speed" delayer chip with the bulge on the left side (so the bulge picks up the tappet plate earlier and it releases just a smidge past the tappet plate cam) to no avail, even after a rather daft cut of the fin (3/4mm) I still have massive power drops. Without the speshul delayer the gun feeds fine (at full power) on midcaps but doesn't feed at all on my Cyma flash mags. I might try to fix it tonight or on Thursday (day off due to national holiday).

Repro ALG Defense 6 Seconds Glock mount from aliexpress is here

Le mount has come, it's one chunky boi.

Update: Bought the trigger bar, hop wheel and outer barrel. Now the 5ku barrel won't release the inner -.- Edit: nvm I pried it open I guess no threaded barrel for me. Also it was sitting funny inside the slide (recoil guide was sticking out 3/4mm). Anyway, trigger and bar installed, seems to have fixed the issue I was having, only thing left is now the 6 seconds mount and then I'm done.

That is not possible unless you short stroke the piston but not the gears. On all my guns I removed two teeth from the sector (pick up side) and left the racks intact, no PME, no smashed front piston teeth, nothing.

Do NOT use adaptive AB, it's a shit feature. Better set it at 20% and leave it there.

Cheap LPVOs are crap, good LPVOs are stupid expensive. LPVOs are heavy and often lackluster in either 1x performance (in terms of 1x not being a true 1x) or shit tier eyebox when magnification is applied. A more cost effective way would be a micro dot stacked on top of a fixed 4x, half the weight, a quarter of the price and very comparable performance with, often, better glass quality.

Did you buy the AAP one or just a regular glock hammer? This just arrived Deadly Customs holster for the mamba upper, so I can use my pistol again

I generally do just fine with iron sights, though it depends on what situation I'm in: if I'm setting up an ambush, then yeah I do aim down my sights, if I'm the one being ambushed I mostly point and shoot, I still shoulder whatever gun I have but getting a sight picture is at the bottom of my priority list, at least for the first two/three bursts.

Cool, so TM bar it is (much cheaper as well, €8 instead of 18 lol). Do 5ku barrels need any sort of modification to fit? Sorry for the silly questions but apart from the AAP and mk23 (both have rather straightforward parts and installation) I don't have much experience with GBB compatibility.

Got this in the mail today: Not exactly a top notch repair, but so far nobody charged me for anything so I guess it's a win

This looks giga fucking cool mate!

It's BE.. If I launch ArmA without BE active I can play it just fine, but only in SP.