Leaderboard

Looks like Well Pro are joining Toxicant and APFG and doing a GBBR XM5/M7. It will probably use VFCs 7.62 platform as a base considering Well Pro's existing relationship with VFC's parts so no doubt better than Toxicant's somewhat pants effort.

Think I have the MWS just so now. MWS Hao 10.5 UGRI rail Ambi charging handle Magpul stock Hogue grip 60deg fire selector (low profile on left, higher profile on right for manipulation shooting left handed) Magpul Mlok sling mount BCM rail covers Magpul foregrip and hand stop Olight Odin mini no name mini suppressor inside hand guard Vortex red dot and clone Unity riser Ferro Slingster

It's a very impressive wall hanger anyway. Also seemingly I was wrong and Classic Army made an attempt at a MSG-90 in the past. The G3 doesn't get enough love, would agree with you. Quite a few of the battle rifles deserve better airsoft equivalents.

One day i'll get round to actually getting it running right. For now it's a wall-hanger. I think the MSG-90's just a bit too obscure. There's not enough G3 variant out there. I'd love an NGRS G3K.

The usual guide for selling secondhand is 60-70% of the retail price, depending on the condition. Magazines: Drum mag: £63.00, so £38-£45 300 round version: About £35, so £21-£25 each Clear 170 round version: About £35, so £21-£25 each Black 60 round version: About £18, so £10-£13 each Short transparent version: About £18, so £10-£13 each Battery extension: £23, so £14-£16 As for the gun, they retail at about £249; as it is non-functional, £100-£120? It really depends on what someone is willing to pay, so be prepared to negotiate. You might do better to split it, selling the mags separately from the gun.

Hi all, Does anyone know of a shipping company that will allow me to ship a RIF from the UK to Finland

brushless + ab is unknown country. yes it is reasonable to expect that brushless motors won't respond in the usual way. however the builders of brushless motors will be taking into account that the airsoft community is going to treat them like any other motor. from my own exp the warhead motors react as any other motor would to being governed by a mosfet, beeps and all.

https://www.airsoftsociety.com/threads/dsg-semi-auto-question.167805/page-2?nested_view=1&sortby=oldest Read this again please, you even commented on it. Should also apply to the startup beeping.

That is very nice! Evening music.

UPS, just make sure to declare it properly, and use the correct tariff code for airsoft guns.

Always a got time got my favourite band SUM 41. Currently listening to this one.

That's a very nice looking build. On the G3 front, surprised no company ever released a ready MSG-90.

I'd go tm hands down and if you want it metal the guarder kit ain't too terrible. Be prettier and more efficient than a WE.

How many dead hookers does it take to change a lightbulb? Apparently more than 3 because my cellar is still dark

Higher power DOES put more stress on the gear set and bearings.

I have done it. Here in the land of cowboys and Indians, we have no rules, and no limits to our wankery Here’s Leo’s simple recipe for making the refs come over and stare whenever you test fire on the range… Traditional wisdom is that fast motors and fast gears are not friends. TRADITION LIED: Tienly makes the best brushed motors on the market, if not the cheapest, followed by Star Wei. Quality build and hand-wound armatures become increasingly important if you want your build to be functional in game without the motor grip turning into one of Gusteau’s Microwaveable Plasma Ultrabirritos. Oh yeah, and shredding your brushes while it’s at it. If built well, a 40K brushed motor can get you to 40RPS when paired with 13:1 gears and an 11.1v. Gears: any solid gear set will work for a while, as long as the bevel meshes well with your pinion of choice. To actually get high speed out of this thing without brute forcing it like some sort of wanker ape, we need to push up the efficiency numbers. To hit 40, you need 80% efficiency. 85% gets you to 43. And so on. SHS/rocket work alright. Siegetek are the best (but seemingly nonexistent in the UK). Solink have a good rep with folks that I trust, and are readily available, so I would go with those. Bearings. You can go bushings if you like with no issue, but real speed demons shell out for J-caged bearings, which can handle the increased stress of what we’re about to do to them. Be wary though, as many of these suckers are tall, and can interfere with selector activities. The “shortest” on the market are 2.5mm thick. Spring. To avoid PME, we need to punch that piston fast and forcefully. PDI makes the best, but Guarder comes in a close second. I would suggest buying at least equivalent of an M130 and M140. And to bleed off that extra spring power we… Shortstroke? No. Not before we have to. Short stroking damages both our tappet timing and our pressure spike, which I’ll discuss in a second, so we avoid it if we can. Instead we shorten our barrel. As any tech knows, all the spring strength in the world means nothing if it all blows out your o-rings and packing seal. This is the same for BB acceleration time. If there is no time to accelerate, it matters not what the ultimate velocity could have been. I would aim for 100-150mm and increase if you can. Cheap stock barrels from various manufacturers can be used to great effect in testing before any expensive parts are purchased. Did you know that most G&G ARP9s come with the equivalent of an M130 installed? Short barrel, fast cycle speed, strong spring. To make sure we can feed the frenzy we need a good stiff tappet and strong spring. This isn’t too complicated. Any stock or upgrade tappet that accomplishes the mechanical demand will do just fine. Guarder makes a good one. King arms does as well. Lube the rails and make sure it slides easily. O-ring drag is real. Double o-rings were invented to solve a design/manufacturing tolerance issue, not a design/airseal issue. Nothing wrong with it if it works for you… but Arcturus, Krytac, and I believe Guarder and Lonex make great single o-ring nozzles that may very well provide better fitment with your nozzle tube and less drag while you’re at it. Pick a strong, light piston with a POM head and ditch those bearings on the PH itself. They’re worthless. You need a total weight of about 15gs to be successful here. The easiest way is to use an SHS blue with the big holes and any decent POM head. Lonex, Gate, etc, etc. You can also remove material from any good quality one. Lonex Red FMRs and Arcturus poly pistons are prime for this. As long as the cylinder and cylinder head seal and don’t have any serious tolerance issues with your other parts, they’ll do just fine. You can easily polish stock brass cylinders to near mirrors of glassy perfection. But if you need to buy one… the Guarder Chromes are nice. As long as you have at least half the cylinder the porting doesn’t matter in the slightest for this. Don’t listen to Negative Airsoft, he does not understand the physics of ported cylinders; the port is not to let air into the cylinder, it’s to allow piston preacceleration. Which brings me back to why we don’t short stroke. When the piston accelerates before sealing with the cylinder, it creates a beautiful little pressure spike that effectively gives you a lot more oomph for less. Ask any HPA user if raising the pressure on their reg changes anything and you’ll understand. Less useful knowledge in this specific case, but great for general teching. Your shimming must be the shimming of Gilgamech and BBkidnu, the great shimmers of yore. We Americans look to George Shimmington. And to power this all, you need a good battery pack. Let’s face it, the vast majority of battery makers and sellers are liars. The packs aren’t IR matched, the capacity and discharge rating are blatant untruths, and the assembly quality is poor. Running your packs at above capacity KILLS YOUR PACKS. If you plug in a beefier battery and your gun gets faster, you’re doing this. You have two ways to combat this. #1 Overcompensate. Recognize the lies, and go so far above and beyond that even the lies place you easily in the green. Turnigy NanoTechs are good candidates. #2 Buy an actually good pack. Kypom are the best I know of. Gens Ace comes second. On the American Airsoft forums we happen to have a guy with a lot of mechanical engineering experience who can actually test cell IR ratings, true capacity, and discharge rates. He’s tested quite a few, and Kypom are consistently closest to advertised. Hopefully some of this is helpful to you! tech on -Leo

I think we’re all forgetting something here. When doing any Airsoft tech work, make sure to open the gun up and get visuals on everything before you start ordering! Not only could you save on shipping and time by ordering everything you actually need at once, you also might find that certain stock parts are fine and dandy and don’t need replacement after all. I speak from mistakes made—learn from mine! 😅

Yes. They don’t active brake. At all. Brushless motors don’t do active braking, as their circuitry is not built to have raw current flow backwards into it. This is also why it’s a bad idea to use Perun ETUs + brushless, as even the little startup beeping incorporates use of reverse polarity. I have to agree with the above suggestions to limit overspin mechanically, either via increased spring rate or increased gear ratio. These are sound ideas that will almost certainly remove possibility of blowing up your very expensive motor.

In short, the actual voltage of 11.1v (or 12.6v fully charged) will cause no more damage to your Aster than a 7.4v or 9.6v would. The increased speed doesn’t actually harm your bearings more. The gear rotating faster doesn’t put more lateral stress on the bearing cage, but instead it is your spring doing the damage there. However, the increased speed could cause issues with PME, which would then require a stronger spring to alleviate, which would end up putting more stress on your bearings and oh my now we are making the build less reliable! It’s different for every build (and if you’re using the stock G&G spring then you actually have a stronger than normal spring in there), but the typical “PME ceiling” for a build around this power level is about 25 RPS. I have pushed a 1J build to 30 before, and I’ve also seen 1.5J builds experience PME at 25, so take the time to test your own build and work out all the little details! In short, as long as you don’t knacker anything up and use good tech sense you’ll be totally fine.

They're not great on the WE 226, bit too wide. WE 226 is about an extra 30% wider than the desert warrior

Is it a bullshit price? Yeah. Is someone probably going to buy it? Also yes. It's a niche collector's item that there's not really a modern replacement for.

Lol, "inflation" has nothing to do with the price of a discontinued collectors item. These packages vary depending on condition and "original" accessories more so than any other average gun. Finding a Groza packages with the suppressor, four 9x39 magazines and the rail is extremely difficult. Similar packages fetch similar money in other countries. Gone are the days where you could pick one of these up in the box for less than £1k, even with no accessories.

I hadn't realised Eagle 6 did the o-rings and have now managed to fix one of my leaky G17 mags based on just seeing this pic, so cheers for that.

Might be rare and discontinued, its still not worth £2000. Especially as there was another one sold on here a while ago for £750 less than that. The guns themselves were about £700 new in 2017, the mags were about £80 a pop, even calculating rate of inflation, you still come out to around £1300 new.

Preorders now live on Socom

While i don't have a FAL to compare i do have a VFC G3. It's built like a tank, really solid with a really nice feel and operation. Mine's used and unfortunately it's totally inconsistent and needs a thorough once over. Obviously the only correct answer is to have one of each. My dad had an FAL before they were banned, so it'd be nice to have one as well.

“If you’ve ever bought a VFC because of a movie in the early 2000’s, go ahead and hit that subscribe button”

There's only two things I can't stand on this forum: posters who are intolerant of other people's cultures, and the Dutch.

I'm assuming that's an all-in budget including charger, batteries, optics and other assorted gubbins. So... This is a serious suggestion. The SA-C08 and SA-F08 offer great value for money, with quick change springs, decent rotary hops, and well featured fire control systems. Both of them have (decent) polymer receivers, and usable motors and barrels (but you might consider upgrading them later). The C08 has an alloy handguard, the F08 has a polymer handguard and is marginally lighter with 10m more barrel - it would be a coin flip between them. If you don't want either of those: why? The answer will help to rule other guns in and out.

So, in essence, what your saying is...... You wankered it 😜

Exactly, it's extremely cheap to knock out copy /paste M4 variants with cheap cast bodies but that's not for everyone

Nerf MA40 to GBB conversion begins. AAP-01 fits after removing some internal supports. . AAP and MA40 hacked up some more and the AAP is bolted to the left shell. Nerf mag hack up and spaced to fit the AAP mag. Long way to go got to figure out a mag release and charging handle, I may put a larger pistol grip in.

11.1v is going to put more strain on the gun and potentially make it break faster. If you want the best trigger response: 11.1V If you want to try to prolong the life of your RIF: 7.4V You've put a fair amount of upgrades into it, and its your only RIF so I would say go for 7.4v. Or potentially buy another RIF as a backup for when you need to repair your primary.