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It's been oooohhhh so long since I actually started a topic, but I think I have reason to today. A while ago now I bought a custom made L129A1 based on an A&K SR25 URX, and since then I have wanted to put a Polarstar into it, because it only came shooting at 300fps and it was a pile of cack. I have skirmished it once and with it only firing at 300fps, the obscene weight of it was just too much considering it's immeasurable crapness. Well today, the dream became a reality and I finally got a Polarstar into it. A long time ago I started a topic regarding whether or not fitting a Polarstar into an SR25 was even possible, due to Polarstar Fusion Engines all being standard sizes, but SR25s using longer, 7.62mm style receivers; and obviously a standard V2 and hop configuration would only fill the same space as a regular 5.56mm receiver. So to get it to actually fit, I had to a buy a G&G SR25 hop unit, and the Polarstar G&G SR25 air nozzle. The G&G SR25 uses a standard V2 gearbox and long hop and nozzle configuration; so that made up the gap you get from using a standard V2 size Polarstar in a longer receiver. However, the G&G hop didn't fit properly, so I had to remove 4mm from the back of it, which also meant I had to remove 4mm from the front of the nozzle (the highly accurate digital callipers came out). So with the power of a Dremel tool me and my mate Joe managed to get the length PERFECT on the first attempt, we crowned off the nozzle, rounded the edges to get rid of any sharpness, and voilà. With a black nozzle we're getting about 425fps at 120psi, meaning it's firing nicely at 350fps on .30s, it may actually be more due to the barrel being a .01mm tightbore, so there'll likely be a degree of joule creep, but we've only chrono'd on .20s so far. But shooting nicely it is, nicely, for at least 60m with a respectable, rough 1.5ft grouping. 1.5ft actually sounds terrible now I've put it on paper, or internet space...? But without looking through an optic you'd watch the shots going down range and be thinking, "Well, being on the wrong end of that would be shit" because it's only once you see it through a scope that it looks as bad as it sounds, and don't forget, 1.5ft is about as wide as your average person, and most of the grouping was out along the vertical axis, which means it's pretty much down to hop inconsistency. But! The target was a 6x4" metal plate and mounted about 10m higher than the firing position, so a man ought to be a doddle to hit at around 70m I reckon. But we'll have to wait until the weekend to see how it actually performs in a game situation, the true test will be when there's only an arm visible around a tree at those sort of extended ranges. Personally I think it'll be better once the hop's had a chance to better bed in, I'm using a Madbull red rubber with the stock nub at the moment, but R-hopping it with an expensive Prommy barrel is very much on the cards at some point down the line. Before I get the funds for that I'll be trying a much more rigid H nub though I think, since the stock nub is squidgy as all hell, which I don't imagine is great for consistency, and almost definitely the cause of all the fliers. Not been this excited about using a gun since my first ever purchase Oh, and here's a reference photo of the real one it's based on:

Guns in the Gun Room with my Purdeys and fathers pair Holland and Hollands. Not in the same Cabinet of course, the RIFS go in with the old guns we loan out to guests when we have a Rough Shoot. Boots in the Boot Room so they can be cleaned and polished by the Under Footman. Other kit in the Dressing room. Not the one en-suite to my bedroom but the one shared by the Blue Room and the Balcony Room in the South Wing, they tend not to be used unless there is a house party down for the weekend.

I have a huge (95litre) police holdall that all my soft kit goes in, the rifles are all stacked up in gun bags. All of it generally stays in the spare room apart from the obligatory two days after a skirmish when it lives in the hallway, then the landing (period is dependent upon the intensity of the wife's nagging).

Which is why I said "if you really want glasses and not goggles" as they appear to have at least the correct impact resistance. The main drive of the point I was replying to was one of impact resistance, not whether or not you could get a ricochet between them and your face. Full seal eyewear incorrectly worn is no safer then non sealing eye wear correctly worn in that respect and I've seen plenty of people wearing goggles that are being displaced by their face masks.

Mine goes in the Wardrobe. Unfortunately that means all my clothes go on the floor My Mum would disapprove

I chuck it all on the top shelf of my wardrobe. I keep most of it in the bags I take to skirmish so its quick to get out the door with it all ready. I just need to change into the trousers and shoes and I walk out the door with the pack and gun cover.

Scar, Glock, XM230, Shotgun and a bunch of grenades

Patrol Base can probably get one in for you if you ask them, they're good for that kind of thing. Today they custom made a stock tube screw for me because I fucked the threads on mine, and they drilled out the hole in my suppressor a little bigger because BBs were hitting it, both for FREE. I bought 2 bags of .28 Bastard BBs as well, and they gave me a 3rd for free too. Hands down best service you can get from an airsoft shop. Absolutely cannot recommend them highly enough.

Oh my bad I had seen the wrong price, but I'd rather have one new, thanks for the offer Ian And also I had a fancy dress OTT bandage in mind

Flung in a heap in my office

I work with electronics and his question makes me wonder if he knows what he's doing and whether he understands how LiPOs are wired. i might be wrong but when its comes to electrics, there are a lot of well meaning amateurs about and for a few quid, its not worth a house fire.

Guy at my regular site plays in a full suit and uses a pistol, cropzy. Haven't got any pics of it about so can't show you though.

Its all bad choices really. Glasses have gaps and hence you could loose an eye, googles fog and you need to do a lot to stop it being a problem none of which is cheap or that good and mesh is dark and lets fragments through to your eyes and you can have your eyesight damaged using them. Personally I am surprised anyone chooses glasses or mesh but they do. Personally I don't think that trade off makes any sense, I want maximum protection for my eyeballs, airsoft is a hobby and if I can't push up because of fog I'll just sit in cover and maybe get shot until it resolves. I don't care that much about winning. One of the reasons I have gone for the Bolle raiders is that they are smaller. They look like glasses but they are fully sealed. They go around the TMC lower mesh mask without impact so neither the mask nor the glasses are in the wrong place.

Hi Ian My prices aren't too far from the HK prices and some cases the same...So far I've found CORE and ZCI gears offer pretty good value. Here's what I can do for the forum members...If interested message me online and I'll get back to you. All SHS Supershooter gears for £23 all in 1st class, same or next day delivery. http://www.ak2m4.co.uk/index.php?route=product/search&search=shs%20gear All CORE gears for £16 all in 1st class, same or next day delivery. http://www.ak2m4.co.uk/index.php?route=product/search&search=core%20gear All ZCI CNC 3mm shaft gears for £17 all in 1st class, same or next day delivery. http://www.ak2m4.co.uk/index.php?route=product/search&search=zci%203mm All ZCI CNC 4mm shaft gear sets for £20 all in 1st class, same or next day delivery (these include bushings and shims and reenforced 4mm shaft) http://www.ak2m4.co.uk/index.php?route=product/search&search=zci%204mm Personally I've been really impressed with the ZCI gears, but also haven't been able to fault the CORE or SHS one's yet.

TBH there isn't anywhere in my whole flat that doesn't have something airsoft related in it. I even use my bathroom to store my boots and boot cleaning gubbins, because I haven't got anywhere else more convenient with an easy clean floor. That said, stuff often spends weeks hanging from my shower curtain rail or towel rail until space becomes available in a drawer or wardrobe, vacated by clothes which have joined the queue to be washed... on the floor, naturally.

They have to cover it if the item is defective or unfit for purpose, whatever they say on their webby. If it wobbles and prevents accurate shooting, I'd say that counts, eh?

Lol, I think I made that my profile pic on here for a while after print screening from a video EDIT: my friend and I enjoy taking the piss out of Jambwow (and he doesn't even airsoft) and I found this picture we made of him a while ago

It's him, I recall being banned from a JustBBGuns group a long time ago and he messaged me saying i used bad language or something to that effect.

This is the second result if you do an image search for JAMBWOW. I can't even...

^^They are not appropriate eyepro for airsoft. You will see people wearing all sorts of stuff, some of it that could withstand buckshot - that doesn't make it appropriate for airsoft. The only eyepro you should consider are types which seal against your face, so that no matter what angle a ricochet can come from, it cannot get between the frame and your face, because once a BB is inside your eyepro, even if it is not initially heading towards your eye, it could bounce off the interior. It has happened recently at Skirmish Airsoft Mansfield. Compare that risk with the risk that a fragment of BB could make it through mesh to hit your eye with sufficient energy to harm it - bear in mind that if a 0.2g BB has 1 Joule of energy and has Volume or 1.333 x 3.142 x (2.975mm)³ = 110.3mm³ then so long as the speed remains constant, the energy retained by a fragment is the same fraction as its volume compared to the whole BB, thus half the BB has 0.5J, a quarter 0.25J and so on... Most mesh has holes around 1.5-2mm, but Hero Sharks (strangely enough, in this topsy turvy world of risk assessment done by emotion rather than logic, considered some of the safest mesh goggles) have holes 2.97mm across - but of course you can't end up with a BB fragment shaped like a sphere of 2.97mm diameter / approx 1/2 a BB in volume... ...actually this is where it gets much more complex, so maybe I'll start a new thread at some point to get to the bottom of it, but basically you need to imagine the BB 1st in the horizontal plane, then the vertical - if no part can be longer than 2.97mm, then discounting the infinitesimally unlikely possibility that fragments could be shattered off the outside all over, leaving a central chunk of approx 2.97mm diameter, then the biggest piece will have part of the original BB surface will be an equilateral triangle -ish shape, from above and also from the side, with each side of length 2.97mm where one side of the triangle is the shortest line between 2 points on the arc of the BB circumference, like this: ...which works out roughly at 18 tetrahedrons: ...or 1/18th of the Volume and Energy = 0.056J (If you're wondering about the volume, you may be interested to know that you're not the only one feeling slightly... ...challenged, shall we say? The centre of a tetrahedron is called the Mong[e] Point! The curved face which would be present on a BB fragment is missing anyway and that would be proper calculus so fuck it, it's about 6.11mm³.) But as I said above, that is to assume that the pieces continue to travel at the same speed as the whole, but of course they don't. When the BB hits whatever it shatters against, some energy is transferred to the object and some, although conserved as heat and sound, is lost from momentum (Mass x Velocity), so actually the amount of energy left able to hit your eye is even less than the Volume proportion, and this remember is the largest piece that could theoretically fit through the biggest holed mesh in airsoft: no wonder then that the one time I had a fragment of BB hit me in the eye through my Hero Shark Daggernose, it felt just like a bit of sand blown into my eye from a beach - irritating, but not damaging (because I didn't rub it). But if you can't be doing with 100% fog proof mesh, Revision Bullet Ant goggles are appropriately safe and, once you remove the foam dust filter, perform well at resisting fogging (but you will need anti-fog wipes as well).

Random Airsofter??? I don't see the need to label a "loadout". I don't even like that term.. Kit is kit. If you've gone to copy something from the real world that's fine but if you've just thrown stuff together you're just going to get stuck with the PMC (operator / contractor / mercenary) label. Once had a guy tell me that my kit was wrong since Italy don't use the pistol I had and my chest rig was completely wrong. Had to explain to him that I wasn't copying an Italian soldier, just Vegetato works great in the UK and the rest of my kit does too. I feel that too many people think in that way, especially those at F&O

if you havent yet started then i would play a few games and adjust you rig to how you play. you cant make a rig before you even know your play style. A chest rig or plate carrier to carry your mags is a great start. Water carrier isnt always necessary, its weight you might not need if your only playing short games. full morning or afternoon games it makes sense with. I only have my plate carrier with 6 mid caps, a full reloader just in case, spare battery and a multi tool. get the very basics you need and then add to it when YOU realise you need something not from what others have as everyone is different. so most people will say. Good footwear Good Eye Protection Appropriate Clothing some way to carry ammo these are the first to have but after that its experience and play style. if you play CQB or fort attacks then a pistol and grenades are a good idea but not great in woodland.

If you have a spare pair of goggles in the safe zone your goggles won't mist up The basic principle is that water vapour will condense on lenses faster if there is any dirt, oil etc to act as a seed for the water droplet. So spotlessly clean lenses will fog less. Then you can use anti fog treatments which work by breaking the surface tension of the water droplets so they spread out, this will result in an initial weird rainbow effect and eventually distortion as water builds up rather than total blindness. The more ventilation your goggles have the better as this means the water vapour doesn't build up inside your goggles as fast. In fact if you have a powerful enough fan you can even reverse the fogging as it will pull dry air in and the water on your lenses can evaporate. So what you need is 2 pairs of goggles, a pair with good ventilation, very clean lenses and treated with an antifogging treatment (cat crap or washing up liquid) and a spare pair of mesh goggles in the safe zone just in case.

Props to Finius for this.