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Airsoft-Ed

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  1. Airsoft-Ed

    WE L85A2 (Gas blowback rifle)

    Make and model: As per the title, the manufacturer is WE and the gun in question is their L85A2 gas rifle. Build quality: I think this is a thing most people will be curious to know but won't think to ask, so I'll stick it at the top of the review. I have to first state that I haven't handled the real rifle, so my comparison will be more against all (as I have handled all) the other airsoft L85 models on the market, all of them are AEGs of course, but I have owned the ICS for a long time, I've owned the Ares for a brief stint, I've picked up the odd G&G for a fondle at shows and I know a few people with Army Armament models too. The WE is more or less what you'd expect, it's full metal, sturdy construction with a good amount of heft to it and made of the right materials in all the right places. I don't think there are really any L85s on the market that don't deliver on that front, to be honest. Even the Army Armament, being the cheapest L85 on the market, does a good job of living up to all the others on an externals only basis. EDIT: One thing of note that was brought to my intention in the comments which I completely forgot about, is that the WE L85 has an 18mm top rail. The real rifle, as well as many, perhaps even all of the other versions on the market have 19mm rails as per the real thing. This means you'll have to be careful with buying optics, as well as rail adaptors. Definitely go for a try before you buy approach. SUSATs are designed for the 19mm rail, so you might only be able to fit certain brands of SUSAT. I don't want to say this with 100% certainty, but I do think you should be safe with anything that fastens with screws and is designed for a 20mm rail though. I myself am using an ACOG mounted on a Hornbill cantilever riser mount, which is essentially an ACOG mount designed for the L85's 19mm dovetail rail and that fits on my WE. It doesn't fit on there perfectly, you have to balance it out carefully with a screw that anchors it to stop it sliding forwards and backwards (same as with the rear iron sight that comes with the rifle) but it does fit. End of edit. With the WE being gas though, the moving parts come into it a little bit. Racking the bolt on the L85 is the most satisfying of the GBBRs I've handled (GHK G5, WE M4, WE MP5, KWA MP9, TM MP7, WE SCAR L and WE AK PMC being the others I've tried), the charging handle wobbles a little bit but that's because it's held in place by the ejection port's edge overlapping the edge of it to stop it coming out. I've no idea if that's the same as on the real rifle, and I'm aware it sounds bad, but trust me when I say I trust it to never fall out even with heavy knocks, or even a direct bash from a hammer. The rifle is solid. If it wasn't like a child to me then I wouldn't think twice about using the front grip as a ladder to help me through windows lol. As for being true to the real rifle, it's not the best on the market, Ares probably takes that trophy. The WE is externally modelled off the ICS design from what I can tell, the barrel threading is the same (14mm CCW), it shares the same quick detach system on the polymer hand guard, (though if you want to fit the Madbull RIS, the ICS adaptor won't work, you'll need the WE specific one) and it's the same incorrect shade of green. Unlike the ICS however, the WE actually has the (functional) bolt release in the right place and also has markings on the fire selector. Though it does lack the trades on the right side of the magazine housing that the ICS does have, and the bolt lock on the right side of the rifle is non-functional on the WE, whereas it does work on the ICS. The only other thing I can think to mention on this front is that the WE, being a gas rifle, field strips in exactly the same way as the real rifle. The only clear differences are that the trigger mechanism is obviously set up to work with an airsoft gun, so there's a hammer to hit the back of a magazine, and the guide rods for the recoil spring have small buffer springs at the back end of them to help return the bolt slightly faster. Speaking of the bolt, it doesn't travel the full distance, which is to say, when it locks to the rear and when firing the gun, the bolt only cycles to around the back end of the large rectangular ejection port, on the real rifle there's a good inch or more of travel left to go past that point, but the WE stops short. It's probably for the sake of gas efficiency and to help the rifle cycle faster, it is only powered by compressed gas and not mini explosions after all, given that this is the only gas L85 on the market though, it would be a shame to hold this against it, especially since all the AEGs, even the blow back models also lack full travel of the bolt. The bolt is also constructed differently to the real thing, which again is obvious, but it looks very similar, the nozzle is even modelled to resemble an actual bolt, complete with locking lugs. So on the whole it's a very well presented, realistic feeling rifle, with noises that excite your downstairs parts. Moving on... Performance: When buying a gun you want to know it's a solid shooter, right? Well that's a difficult thing to really approach from a scientific perspective when it comes to gas guns. I can't just say it shoots X distance at X fps because it's a little more complicated than that. If you're reading this as a gas gun user, then I'm sorry for mentioning all this, but my reviews are designed to give people every ounce of info I can pass on to anyone who wants to read them, so I don't like to skimp out on the more general details for the sake of keeping things short and sweet. By its nature, gas as a propellant is... Unpredictable, let's say. The pressure gas is held under depends on the temperature and how much of it there is, couple this with the fact the parts accepting the gas move around (the bolt) meaning they don't mesh in exactly the same way every time, and by the nature of them moving, have gaps between them, through which gas can escape; gas rifles make for pretty inconsistent shooting platforms. Don't expect AEG performance from any gas blowback rifle, the WE L85 is no exception to this rule. However, that's not to say you can't get god-like range and accuracy from them, it just means you won't get it all the time on a repeatable, game day to game day basis. It is unlikely that you will see this gun performing the same on every skirmish you take it to, the temperature is never going to be the same, so you're going to need see your fps alter slightly from game to game, fps differences mean the hop needs re-setting often, and perhaps even ammo weight changing to account for lower power in some instances. What this means is that sometimes you might have it performing so bad that you just can't deal with it, whereas others it will be so totally flawlessly on the money that you'll want to marry it and take it to bed. Such is life with gas rifles. You have to take the rough with the smooth, and I think this ambiguity, combined with the higher than usual price tag is what puts a lot of people off getting gas rifles. You can help the consistency by buying an NPAS (negative pressure adjustment system) kit, which replaces the valve in your nozzle for an adjustable one, this allows you to alter the time gas is sent down the barrel for. Longer for more fps, shorter for less. Generally it allows for adjustment between the low 200s and the high 400s but I haven't honestly tested mine to its extremes. Just remember it's like a screw, you tighten it for more fps and loosen it for less, they cost about £15 so definitely buy one otherwise the rifle will more than likely chrono too hot for UK limits. Especially in the summer, and especially with heavier ammo, which I recommend using with any gas rifle. Realistically though, it's a very capable rifle, on a good day it will reach out and touch people at 70m, and being gas you can easily up it to DMR limits, use super heavy ammo and just have at it. With it being entirely mechanical, if you understand how it works then playing around with the power settings and fitting different barrels and such can be half the fun on its own. Fun factor: High. Very high... Oooohhh, buy one. I may be biased... But seriously, I have had issues with this gun, which I'm going to stick in their own section later on, but they're not bad enough to out weigh how amazing to use this rifle is. The bolt is large and heavy, this thing has a really nice kick to it, it's loud and the sound is awesome, all the metal on metal noises when reloading just round it all off nicely. It's so nice to fire that I honestly wouldn't mind if the actual shooting performance was a lot worse than it is, because it's just so fun to shoot. I joke about being biased, but if I'd had a bad time with the rifle there's no way I'd be able to be this positive about it, is there? Haha. I can't personally recommend it though, and it's not because I'm hiding anything from anyone, it's just that I acknowledge that I am weird. =/ I'm seriously picky when it comes to picking guns, and personally I'm more into it for the realism side of things than anything else. Like I said earlier, if it shot half as well as it does, I'd still love it, just because how it works is mechanically orgasmic to me lol. But! Considering the cost, I'm not sure many people would want to deal with the downs as well as the ups. Everyone's going to love the ups, but the fact that there are any downs at all, let alone the fact that you can't really control them that well, is just going to be too much for some people, and since I can't run a psych evaluation on everyone who reads this, I think it's safer to just say I don't recommend it, in case someone buys it, has nothing but bad experiences and then blames me lol. You need to know what you're doing, you need to have money to burn (or good patience), you need to have contacts in the airsoft world who can supply you with spare parts and I would say it would help hugely to actually have an interest in the mechanical aspect of the gun, rather than just wanting it to shoot people with. It's more about the joy of the recoil and the sound than the actual performance, it just so happens that the performance can be incredibly good. So if you are looking at buying it, buy it for the awesome recoil, noise and the realism, not the performance. It's like having an awesome conversation with a girl in a bar and falling over yourself because of how amazing she is, that's the fun factor of this gun. The silver lining, is that she's also hot as balls, which translates into shooting good in airsoft gun terms lol. Issues, fixes, and things to be aware of: Right, the first thing you need to be aware of, is that the version of the gun that I have, came with the trigger mechanism and barrel pre-upgraded with steel, RA Tech parts. As such, I have no idea how long the stock gun's trigger will last, or what the stock barrel will be like. However, when it comes to upgrading parts in gas rifles, they are generally more to increase reliability than performance. My steel trigger set doesn't make the trigger perform better, it just makes it last longer and as of today I have owned the rifle for about a year and a little over a week and I have had precisely 0 trigger related issues. The trigger mechanism also houses the bolt lock, which has also been flawless and is still showing no wear at all, even on the stock bolt where it meets. Very impressed, very satisfied. The barrel obviously is a performance related part, but I do also have a gas WE SCAR which has a stock barrel and that is more accurate than the L85 on its good days and that's with a standard barrel, so just forget about the barrel point for the sake of the review. I actually wish I had a stock barrel to try with my L85, because given how well the SCAR shoots I think it might actually be better without a barrel "upgrade". Anyway though, the first issue you will probably encounter, is the bolt seizing. You'll be firing and then the bolt will just jam and not return to its forward position. This is a known, and very common fault with the WE L85, so common in fact that I can 100% guarantee it will happen to absolutely every WE L85 that's ever been made, unless it's been fitted with a steel bolt - which as it happens, I do not recommend you buy. Total waste of money, unnecessary and they've also been discontinued, so also very hard to get. So, what causes this bolt jamming issue? The bolt is made of cheap metal and it moves around very violently. As it travels back upon firing, it hits against a pair of very short, very stiff buffer springs. These springs then fire the bolt forwards again. They hit the bolt so hard that they cause the metal to mushroom around the impact point, you will more than likely experience this issue within the first 3000 shots fired, might be more, might be less. The metal deforms from the impact and it causes it to close the holes around the guide rods that the buffer springs are sat on. So when the metal deforms enough, the holes close to the point where they just grip the guide rods and the bolt jams. How'd you fix it then? You just need to get some steel washers, just the simple little, metal rings, and fit them between the buffer springs on the recoil rods, and the bolt. Sounds like a joke it's that simple, right? Well it seriously is. The washers take the brunt of the impact force and completely stop the bolt from deforming. I've been running a stock bolt for a little over a year now without that issue occurring one single time since I fitted the washers. I have a video on my YouTube channel detailing this and how to fix it if you need clearer instruction. I'd stick a link here in the review but then there'll be a massive video box breaking it all up. I might add it as a comment, maybe. Send me a personal message or check my profile for ways to get hold of me for more info if you need a hand with anything. Next thing to keep an eye on, whilst we're on the topic of the bolt, is the screws for the guides that hold the nozzle inside the bolt. There is one guide on the top of the bolt, and one on the left side. The top one is held in with two screws, the left one is held in with one. These screws are TINY, but they're also very important. Important, and a little bit annoying... If you tighten them all the way, then they can restrict the movement of the nozzle inside the bolt. The nozzle needs to freely move back and forth because it's what causes the blowback, you need the blowback to work for the gun to work. So you need these screws to be loose enough for the nozzle to move freely, but tight enough to not fall out, because they can and will come out. The recoil force will work them loose over time. So you need to keep an eye on them before and after every time you get the gun out for a shoot. You might want to think about holding them in place somehow, but if you're thinking of using loctite be VERY careful you don't get any on the moving parts because that shit is like glue, and moving parts that don't move, don't work. You need to be aware of the pistol grip. This is held on with a single self tapping screw that is both very short, and very thin. As such, swinging the gun around and holding it by nothing but the grip may very well strip this screw at some point, or work it loose, until you eventually end up with the grip either coming off, or physically breaking off. If you buy the rifle from Milspec Solutions then Iain actually carried out a very simple mod that fixes this issue before shipping the rifles out. Which is to simply remove the screw the gun comes with, and fit a slightly wider, and much longer self tapping screw. This grips better and just generally more, by nature of being a longer screw. If you can't fully eliminate all the wobble, then stick some washers between the screw head and the rifle body on the inside of the gun. The only other thing I can think to mention is that you need to keep an eye on the ejection port/dust cover. This is the green piece that flaps up and down just behind the bolt. It's designed to stop dirt and dust from getting inside the gun through the little slot behind the bolt which the charging handle slides through. The dust cover is held on with a pin, this pin is free to slide back and forth to the point where it comes right off the gun if it wants to. The dust cover isn't essential, the gun will work without it, but standard practice is to close it when not firing to stop any dirt magically jumping in through the hole. Firing the gun automatically opens the cover, but it's firing to open the cover that persuades the pin to start escaping, so if you don't want to have to worry about it, you can either glue the pin in place, or alternatively, just leave the dust cover open all the time, as if it doesn't move, the pin won't either. Maintenance: I think this is a bit of a dirty word that gets thrown around a bit too much in the wrong ways. I often see people mention maintenance as an excuse, or argument against getting a gas rifle, but at least with the WE L85, it's really not a maintenance heavy rifle. You just need to make sure all the parts that need to move, can move freely, and if they can't, open the gun up and see if you can figure out why. Similarly, if the performance seems to have taken a hit, or if full auto doesn't work, or whatever, then have a look on the inside at the parts in control of that function and see if there's any signs of wear. This is where knowing how the gun works comes into its own, if you understand how it works, diagnosing issues is very simple and easy. So, making sure everything works as it should, and checking for wear. Bob's your Uncle, Fanny's your anut and WE's your significant other because L85's your new baby lol. Cold weather performance: Another thing that people hold against gas guns, though with a little more reason this time. I have used my L85 in temperatures as low as 2 degrees Centigrade and the performance was no different to using it in the height of summer, I could still get off a full mag, it would still lock on the last shot and the shot trajectory, accuracy and range was no better or worse than on any other day. I've also used it in torrential rain, and I do mean literally like standing in a cold shower levels of moronically, monsoon-esque rain and it still worked fine then too. Accuracy did suffer because the hop rubber got wet, but it still cycled flawlessly, still got a mag off, still locked. Can't fault it at all. There are CO2 mags available for sub zero temperatures, but I honestly wouldn't waste my money on them, CO2 mags are highly prone to leaks because of the higher pressure of the gas and they're much harder to maintain and fix once leaks occur. They also cost more to buy, and significantly more to run, with CO2 being about 60p per CO2 capsule. CO2 is also a lot less versatile, you can't just top your mag up with CO2 if you only fire 20 shots through it in a game, you have to just keep going until the gas runs out, and rather inconveniently, you can't get 60 shots off one CO2 capsule... So that means you get one full mag of 30 shots off, then at some point before you're through with the next 30, your gas runs out. Not ideal. Costs involved - Running costs: As I mentioned earlier, I bought mine with the trigger and barrel pre-upgraded, this cost me £500 for the base rifle, which comes with one 30 round gas magazine. I then bought another 5 mags, to the tune of £35 each, bringing the total to £175 + 500 = £675. Not a cheap initial outlay. But, I haven't had to spend a single penny on any internal parts since then, so I would personally say the extra money you pay for a steel trigger is a very good investment if you don't want to have to take the gun apart further than simple field stripping. Without any upgrades the base gun generally retails for around £370 last time I checked, so the upgrade parts add about £130 to the price. You could choose to buy the base gun and then upgrade as parts wear out, which if I had the chance to buy the gun again, that's what I'd do. I had previously had bad experiences with gas rifles because I didn't know what I was doing, so when I bought this I wanted to bomb proof it just to be on the safe side. Having played with it quite heavily for a year I now feel confident enough to dismantle it fully down to individual components and put it back together in working condition, and I'm fairly sure a lot of the stock trigger parts would have lasted a year before needing any replacements anyway, so it probably works out cheaper to buy the stock gun and then upgrade when you need to. Especially considering I highly doubt the barrel upgrade is necessary, and that probably makes up £50 of the £130 I paid extra for the upgraded version of the rifle. Running costs though... A lot of people assume this is going to be insanely high because there's gas to buy as well as ammo, but the costs involved are down to the player really. I use Coleman's propane to run mine. Canisters cost about £9/10 from Go Outdoors, which is a camping shop, or there are a few select airsoft retailers that sell propane as well. Patrol Base being the one I know definitely do. £15 gets you an adaptor to put on the cans, which you use to fill your mags, and then each can lasts me a little over one full game day. Bear in mind though, Propane canisters hold a little more than double the amount held in a green gas can, so if you stick with standard green gas cans - those 750ml ones - you're going to need 2, probably 3 to last you a day, so that £9 becomes more like £30. Propane is definitely the way to go. Green gas actually is propane, just purified (which really doesn't matter, it just makes it cost more) and with silicone oil added. So if you choose to buy propane you'll need to add the silicone yourself. The adaptors come with a little bottle of it that seems to last forever, you just add a few drops to the top of the canister at the start of every game day and you're golden. Just helps keep all the rubber seals in the magazines in check, stops them developing leaks. As for ammo, you only have 30 round mags, so you don't get through much in a day. The mags are heavy as hell too, and at £35 not many people are going end up with more than about 8 unless they get them for free in trade deals or something, so that's less than 300 shots going into each game with you. I personally have 9 mags but I only use about 700 shots a day. I use Bastard BBs, the .28s, which come in bags of 2000 and cost £12 a bag. They're very, very high quality. That bag will last me 3 game days, minimum, every time. So £9 for the gas which lasts a little more than one game day. Call it about 1.3 game days. So about £6.50 on gas per game day + £4 on ammo because a £12 bag lasts 3 days. Costs me just over a tenner per game day. That's about the same as your average AEG user buying a pot of 3000 .25s, so running costs really aren't anything to hold against gas rifles. You could even use some much cheaper ammo and then it'll cost you even less. Conclusion? I would say that it is an expensive rifle with performance worse than the price would suggest. You could spend that much on an AEG and get much better performance for your money, as well as the ability to use mid and high capacity mags, but this makes up for it in the fun of the blowback and the noise. If you want to buy one, do it for the kick, the sound, the realistic weapon controls and functionality, and the pure mechanical brilliance of the internal mechanism. The performance isn't bad by any means, but it is bad for the money.
  2. Airsoft-Ed

    The GBBR Thread

    As of the new year, I've now been a gas rifle user for a year, since I bought my WE L85 as a late Christmas present to myself last year. I think I got it on the 4th... So my ikkle baby is a year and 4 days old *wipes away a single tear* Anyway though, I'm going to be filming a review of it over the next few days. I did an unboxing video when I got it, with my first impressions and a firing test, so this is going to be a follow up review, with all my experiences, good and bad, of having it for a year. A helpful approach to reviewing I think, how sick do you all get of seeing people "review" a gun when they've only just opened the box and not even used it in a game? 'Cos it royally pisses me off. Reviews should include hands on experience and be done after enough time for any faults to manifest so they can be mentioned. I'd expect ANY gun to be flawless out of the box, 'cos if it came with issues, of course it's shit... What do these reviewers think they're achieving? I digress... As well as reviewing the gun after a year of living with it, I thought I'd also talk a little more generally about using GBBRs, since a lot of people seem to be put off by them, or look upon them badly for any number of reasons - gas inconsistency, weather dependent performance, poor mag capacity, running costs etc etc. So I was wondering if anyone would appreciate there being a topic to discuss gas rifles for those who are curious about them, considering getting one, or have them and want help getting them up and running after a part failure or something. Maybe we could call it the GBBR thread or something? To start with though, I just wanted to ask if anyone had any questions I could cover in the review? They can be about GBBRs in general, or more specific to the WE L85. Also, we might as well include photos because it makes the thread a bit more appealing if there's an aspect of flashy, showing-offy-ness, right? So let's see what GBBRs our community has, to try and provoke some discussion about them. Here's my L85:
  3. Airsoft-Ed

    SA80 L85 A2..which battery is best

    The ICS L85s are actually built like tanks on the inside, the internals are super solid and I personally tested a totally stock gearbox and motor with an M150 spring and it managed to pull it. Semi lock up was definitely on the cards and the rof on auto was slower than your nan on the stairs, but the point is, the gearbox is built better than most. However, I would at least experiment with pistons as you're probably going to strip a few running at 11.1V, once you find one that lasts I think you'll be fine though. The ICS L85s have a quite complex trigger mechanism that has quite a bit of extra connections to account for the receiver split when you take it apart, which can drain batteries more than most and kill trigger response a fair bit, so running 11.1V LiPos ought to account for that. If possible though I'd advise fitting a MOSFET just to route around the trigger contacts entirely. Ought to avoid the contacts oxidising that way too, as you might run into issues with the current arcing otherwise. Test it and see. Personally I used to use 9.9V LiFes though, bit more grunt than the 7.4 LiPos but they fit the same space. Only real drawback is that they're only 1000mah max if you want to still fit them in the RIS, which means you'll probably need 4 if you want to use auto much throughout the day. Personally I always ran with real caps and rarely if ever used auto at all, I could just about make 1000mah last me a day, but auto seriously drains it at a much higher rate than semi so just be wary if you buy any. Get at least 3 if you use high caps.
  4. Airsoft-Ed

    First time @ The Stan (Sheffield)

    Yes, very different. Firesupport is a shop and one of the main UKARA retailers, they helped develop UKARA as a system. They also run two sites, that I know of; Free Fire Zone and Urban Assault. Skirmish Airsoft is a company based out of their woodland site near Mansfield, but they also have The Stan, and Wentworth CQB - though Wentworth is closing soon. They have an online shop that I forget the name of, and the sites all have onsite shops, but on top of that they're also rapidly expanding and the business' owners both also have hands in Zombie Infection which is obviously an events company, they've recently bought out Ops7 too which is a veerrrrryyyy small airsoft shop in Sheffield. I'd be surprised if they don't end up with more site locations and a bigger shop before long, they acquired The Stan and Wentworth within a pretty small time frame and once Wentworth closes they'll be looking for somewhere else to put their small army of marshalling staff. Lastly, Skirmish Airsoft as a company name is a bit ambiguous since there's also Skirmish Airsoft Billericay and I think a few other similarly named places, but they're not related.
  5. Airsoft-Ed

    My glock 17 select fire switch

    It must have an auto sear if it's select fire? Just take it out, and you're left with a G17 mechanism, no? Glocks are pretty straight forward but the SA mech is one of the very limited few that aren't a direct clone of the TM, so most of the guides you'll find won't be fully relevant, but they should at least give you enough understanding on how it works to be able to figure out what you need to remove to glue in order to get what you want done.
  6. Airsoft-Ed

    First time @ The Stan (Sheffield)

    I'm there on the regular, well I was, and they do allow HPA. Never actually heard of anywhere that doesn't. Nothing really to heads up you on, though I'd say that having a good pistol is pretty important as they sometimes impose stupid as fuck rules regarding where you can and can't use primaries to try and discourage camping and keep the pace of the games a bit more fluid - supposedly pistols are less effective at holding areas down (which I thoroughly disagree with, but that's a whole other debate) but the fact that not everyone has one, or when it's cold not all of them are particularly effective, means that defending choke points can only be done from a way back instead of right up on the area in question. They argue that camping staircases with rifles just makes them inaccessible so you're supposed to defend them with pistols to give the attacking team a chance, but I'm a firm believer in fair fights being for suckers and not only does this flip that around to force you into being on the bad side of an unfair fight, but there isn't even anything you can do to try and rebalance it, since backing off to use your rifle is the only real option but that just gives them space to get out of the choke point and assert themselves. Last time I was there they also limited the entire outside area to pistols only, because with rifles you would've been able to stand outside and lock all the exits down to stop anyone from flanking - apparently. But given how cold it was it just meant no one could flank anyone because you couldn't shoot anyone outside... Honestly it was shit and I've not bothered going back since. The site was more enjoyable under Op Tac's management in my opinion, I love the Skirmish lot to bits but now they're running it all by the books with Sheffield City Council's Health and Safety board giving the go ahead on everything it's kinda just spiralled into the gutter. That said, no one else seems to have the same issues I do as they still have it fully booked for every event, so I'd say try it and see what you think. It's a cool site, I just think that if you experienced it before the management change over, you'll feel like there's too much limitation on where you can go and what you can do. That blacked out tunnel mentioned above for example, that's out of bounds now, most of the more indirect flanking paths are closed, and the entire bottom corner of the factory which used to be a total black out zone has now been completely walled off.
  7. Airsoft-Ed

    Let's talk lids.

    I'm looking at getting a helmet set up and just want some inspiration and pointers from those who have built up some more technical looking helmet set ups. I want a FAST helmet type thing, with an NVG mount for a GoPro, the option to add ear defenders for comms and some way to mount a battery pack on the back for the camera. I've seen set ups like this from countless people but when it comes to physically obtaining it for myself I don't really know where to start. Which helmets allow for this? I know there are a lot of polymer style helmets, I know there's FAST, Crye Airframe... But are these just different names for the same thing, or what? I really have no idea. Are the NVG mounts universal? Would I need anything else to get a camera on the helmet? The ear pieces - do they come as a set that you remove from the C shaped bit that goes around your head? Or are there specific ear pieces sold for the helmets? How would a battery pack be mounted on the back? I know some of the helmets come with velcro on the outside, but wouldn't have thought that'd hold something that heavy well enough? Any and all pointers would be appreciated here, folks. Feel free to post your own lids and give me a rundown, show off, whatever you feel. Links would also be appreciated so long as compatibility is outlined - wouldn't want to buy something thinking it'd fit and then finding out it doesn't. Cheers!
  8. Airsoft-Ed

    Anyone on the forums a regular here?

    I'm a regular at all of Skirmish's sites - CQB, The Stan, Woodland is a little further out for me as I'm about 10 minutes from The Stan but I'm probably there most often because there's no booking limit lol.
  9. Airsoft-Ed

    Relationship between fps and range

    Range is dictated by BB weight, hop and power - that's joules rather than fps. BBs are generally the most stable flying between 280 and 320fps, this isn't something I can prove, it's just something I've noticed through experience (I've been playing around 7 years). So to get the most out of your gun, you want to be using the heaviest ammo you can that will give you an fps reading in that bracket, whilst still being light enough for your hop to actually send it flying level, of course. Why heavy ammo? The added weight makes it less susceptible to air resistance, it might start off slower than a lighter bb but it'll maintain its speed for a longer period of time. To the point where beyond a certain range it will actually be travelling faster than the lighter bb that set off going faster, just because the lighter faster shot will decelerate at a higher rate. The other thing about heavier ammo, is that it retains the spin applied by hop for longer, making it actually maintain it's lift for longer. So even though it's heavier and you'd expect it to be more prone to the effects of gravity, that's actually not the case because it spins for longer and actually fights gravity for longer. How does that make any sense? Well the hop rubber is basically a brake, right? It's a brake applied to only the top side of the BB, the more hop you apply the more harshly that one side of the BB is slowed down, thus the greater the spin - we all know how hop works. But for a heavier shot, more hop is required to maintain the same - level - flight, so it gets more spin added, and that's precisely why it maintains the spin longer, because it's spinning faster in the first place. So when people say fps doesn't give more range, they're not necessarily wrong, but it'd help if they clarified by saying that JUST more fps doesn't give more range. If you just stick a bigger spring into a gun and run the same ammo through it, the shot won't fly with much stability, the air resistance will just slow the shot down faster, and you'll probably end up with so little extra range that it just won't have been worth it. Especially once you consider the negative effects of adding a heavier spring will have had on the gearbox - more stress on the gears, the motor, your trigger response and rate of fire are going to suffer, and for what? But, if you up the power via the spring, and then also increase the weight of the BB - ideally to drop the fps back down to what you were shooting at before with the lighter weight, you will hands down, 100% of the time see a range increase. The thing that people get hung up on, is that they don't understand why you'd increase the fps only to decrease it again with heavier ammo. They feel like they've taken a step forward only to take the same step back, but it's not the case because bb weight is everything. A .2 travelling 300fps will not travel as far as a .25 travelling the same speed. So a .46 travelling 300fps? Range for days. Why'd you think sniper's use heavy ammo? It's all physics.
  10. Airsoft-Ed

    TM Recoils

    Damn I've not been on here in a while, I bet half of the regulars aren't even the same ones I remember it's been so long. Anyway though, I've been out of the game for a good year or two now and I'm looking to get back into it with something new to spruce things up a bit. Got my heart more or less set on the TM H&K 416c from their recoil line, but I wanted to see if anyone on here has one and what they make of it? How does the recoil system compare to the full stock model? I'm not actually sure I understand how it even works so if someone can explain it that'd be great too. How solid is the wire stock? A mate has the SOPMOD and the buffer tube seems to be forever loosening itself, he's actually buggered the threads on it now because it happens so much - is that something I have to concern myself with? I'm drawn to it by the battery mag system and the compact size. But I'm wondering if the battery mags come with the batteries? If not then what sort of size and voltage am I able to fit in there? Are there any cons to the system I'm overlooking? I already know that the mags are limited to 30 capacity, but I like that. Cost is obviously a given, but does the battery being detachable with the mag cause any issues with circuit latency or arching between contacts etc? I'm hoping I'll be able to whack a bunch of 9.6v NiHms in there, because they hold their charge longer without needing to be balance charged or anything - which will be nice for me because with how rarely I play these days I could probably go a year or more without having to worry about them being dead lol. Any general insight on the gun in general would be appreciated though - I've not been able to find it cheaper than £500 yet either... Should I just accept they're expensive or do you guys reckon it's worth looking second hand or over seas?
  11. Airsoft-Ed

    WE Glock 17 Hostler

    Just a note to add, if you buy anything real steel, just get the Glock 21 version and it'll fit the WE fine.
  12. Airsoft-Ed

    M14 G&G or CYMA

    I had the G&G Veteran model, came shooting 390 out of the box on .2s, literally all I did was add a tightbore and run .3s through it and it was an absolute beast. Only thing I couldn't get on with was the mags were hard to find, and the weight combined with the rifle grip played merciless hell on my wrist.
  13. Airsoft-Ed

    TM Recoils

    Used it yesterday and loved it, could do with another mag or two though. It's only hitting 240fps on .28s as well, I'd like that to be closer to 290, what spring do they have fitted as standard? Thinking of putting an uprated one in and a tightbore.
  14. Got a mate after some TM G18 mags, anyone got a link for me?

  15. I think I might've had exactly what you've got, bought it for £5 from an airshow absolutely years ago. Accuracy sounds equally appauling. Have you looked at it from the front end? Maybe even down the barrel - with it unloaded obviously - sounds as if there's an obstruction at the end of the barrel, maybe part of the outer barrel has some little spurs on it from the moulding or something? That or the inner barrel could be some whacky huge diameter and not be of uniform width. Try getting a McDonalds straw, stick it down the barrel and try shooting with that as your barrel instead. If you can get one to fit down there at least. Seen people use straws for barrels before - obviously it wouldn't be a good idea for long range accuracy, or under skirmish conditions, but in your kitchen with what sounds like the world's worst spring pistol, I doubt it's going to do anything short of improving things.
  16. Ok, so a lot of the current forum regulars might not be that familiar with me, but I am a mod that was crazy active maybe 2/3 years ago. I run a YouTube channel in my spare time, linked in my signature, and recently I've partnered up with an airsoft parts shop - MajorAirsoft.co.uk. So check their stock out, and if there's anything you like, you can use discount code Bullet4MyEnemy for 10% off. You're welcome. All I ask, is that when visiting their site you use this link, to help me prove how much good I'm doing for them - maybe it'll lead to better discounts in the future, who knows? Oh and why not sub to the channel? It'd be the best way to hear about new deals and such. Plus, airsoft gameplay footage and the occasional tech video, review etc.
  17. Airsoft-Ed

    TM Recoils

    I have time constraints otherwise I would have. Anyway, all ordered now =D
  18. Airsoft-Ed

    TM Recoils

    Never mind, figured it out.
  19. Airsoft-Ed

    TM Recoils

    I don't have a LiPo charger at the moment so I'm just trying to keep the costs down so I can live off more than £80 before next pay day lol It's looking like I'll be getting these instead now: http://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/kong-power-rechargeable-lipo-battery-1900mah-22c-74v-single-pack-mtamiya Don't suppose anyone can tell me if this charger will work? I've no idea how many cells are in LiPos: http://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/vapex-lipo-life-balance-charger-upto-3-cell-vte-600
  20. Airsoft-Ed

    TM Recoils

    Anyone any idea which 9.6v NiMhs would fit in the battery mags? Trying to price everything up but there's not much info on the mag space.
  21. Airsoft-Ed

    TM Recoils

    Got to say I'm being swayed towards the D model, largely due to the cheaper price because I'd save a lot not needing as many mags or an army's worth of batteries to power them lol. But I do feel that the C would better suit my requirements. I use a bike from transport rather than a car, and lately I've been using a stubby AK with a folding stock, which is absolutely ideal for keeping kit to a minimum. Though I guess the gun being small doesn't count for much if you're going to need a whole rig's worth of mags and batteries to run it, so it's a bit of a moot point. How does the recoil system actually work then? If the C is worse than the D - is the D the same as the DEVGRU or is it worse?
  22. Airsoft-Ed

    TM Recoils

    Hmm, you didn't say it directly but you've just made me think how handy it'd be being able to borrow mags from team mates - which I wouldn't be able to do with the battery mags. That's the first major thing to sway me away from the c variant - though you can still run the c with a regular battery and mags as far as I understand? Do they have the options to switch from mags to standard battery set up whenever you want or is it something you need to do once and then leave like that forever?
  23. Airsoft-Ed

    Which Sig Sauer P226?

    So, since selling my Sig, I've wanted another one. They're just too cool to not have one. Since from my experience the KJW is pants, I'm looking at what else there is. KSC, KWA, KWC, TM and WE... So which is best? KSC is about £180 on Zero One, why the ludicrous price tag? TM is plastic, so I'm put off by it, but I understand the performance cancels this out. KWC are pretty new and seem to be similar to KJW, what with their X-FIVE, but I think their regular P226 might be plastic, so that'll probably be something between the KJW and the TM. There's the KWA, which I've heard mixed reviews about. It's metal, but has that snazzy gas system in it which is meant to be amazing. So does that have TM performance in all weathers, but metal construction? 'Cos that's what I'm after, ideally. Lastly there's WE which as everyone knows aren't all that great, but they are producing some CO2 pistols, so it seems promising that they might make a CO2 P226, which would be the best thing to happen to me with regard to airsoft since, well, I don't know. But it'd be good. Which ever one I go for, I want to be reliable in all weathers above anything else. But I'd also prefer metal construction... Who's owned any of these that can offer some input?
  24. Airsoft-Ed

    KJW G23 Dropping BBs after each Shot.

    l'm guessing the hop rubber just isn't holding the shots in the breach. Try applying more hop to see if it starts to hold them in; if it does then and your shots aren't being sent high then l'd just leave it at that. But if your shots are being sent high then try refitting the hop rubber - lt's probably not sat quite right. Failing that solving the issue though, l'm not sure what else it could be without having it in front of me and inspecting it more thoroughly.
  25. I'm still a little hung up on the fact the BBs have to be plastic, to me this screams that the new bill was written by someone who doesn't ask many questions before just throwing the law down. What about bio BBs? Are they no longer allowed? And what about heavier weights? I always assumed that to increase the weight of a 6mm ball without actually making it bigger, denser material was added to the mix - i.e. Not plastic. Not fully plastic anyway.
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