What have you made?

[Guest]

Collaboration between @RidiculousReed and Rhesus Customs, more CNC aluminium triggers, selectors and rails for the Vector.

 

And maybe, just maybe, CNC M-Lok handguards for VFC & TM MP7’s 😱

I cannot recommend @RidiculousReed enough when it comes to turning dreams into reality 😎

 

[Badgerlicious]

This bush seems to have a red dot mounted on it? 

[PopRocket123]

On 28/10/2021 at 19:11, rocketdogbert said:

Collaboration between @RidiculousReed and Rhesus Customs, more CNC aluminium triggers, selectors and rails for the Vector.

 

And maybe, just maybe, CNC M-Lok handguards for VFC & TM MP7’s 😱

I cannot recommend @RidiculousReed enough when it comes to turning dreams into reality 😎

 

How much did those triggers cost per unit? I've got a trigger for the VFC SCAR H AEG that I would rather have in aluminium than 3d printed

[Guest]

48 minutes ago, PopRocket123 said:

How much did those triggers cost per unit? I've got a trigger for the VFC SCAR H AEG that I would rather have in aluminium than 3d printed

Contact @RidiculousReed directly bud, I’m sure he can sort you out. The vector triggers are expensive as there are lots of curves. 
We (Rhesus) retail them after Cerakote at €75, or €95 including the frame.

 

[PopRocket123]

Mags and trigger printed in resin for the VFC SCAR H AEG. 

[MagpieTactical]

An aimpoint extension to make the Compm2 look more like a 3000/5000 for that old skool look

 

Cheap but of alu tube (30mm diameter) trimmed to right length and sprayed black.  Uses the rear scope ring shared with the back of the compm2.  With the lens protector on it looks OK to me. 

 

Before:

 

After:

 

[Ajax]

I was trying to buy smallest possible torch with integrated grip to use on pistols. I found one made by UTG but nowhere to buy anythere outside US. So I decided to make my own. The hardest part was to find smallest possible torch with instant on light and highest possible lumens. The one I got is a size of AA battery and has real output of 650 lumens. Not bad for such tiny EDC torch. Next step was easy with bit of help from thingiverse and my limited cad skills I manage to produce this it's tiny c.8x6cm!! tested on the game day and was better than expected perfect pistol torch with grip

[EDcase]

Can you specify where you got the torch?

Cheers

 

Edited November 16, 2021 by EDcase

[Ajax]

39 minutes ago, EDcase said:

Can you specify where you got the torch?

Cheers

 

I bought it from Amazon: RovyVon Aurora A1x

Edited November 16, 2021 by Ajax

[EDcase]

Cool thanks

[SeniorSpaz87]

On my quest to pervert rare airsoft guns I present v1 of my JS9 build. v2 is currently printing, with a few small mods and a proper retention system. Ideally I will find a compatible SMG mag that is only as wide as a MP5 mag, but wider to do a proper QCW-05 or QCQ-05 build. If so I will redesign it to fit around said mag - the real Q-series uses a 5.8mm bullet that results in a longer mag (front to back).

[MagpieTactical]

Just done my old school mag pulls using paracord, tie wraps, and olive green duct tape 

[Guest]

More GBB Vector parts, designed by Rhesus, implemented by @RidiculousReed

 

Invisible thread adapter 16 cw to 14ccw and full sear sets

 

 

[Guest]

More from the bench of @RidiculousReed  😎

[strykerles]

I made a mess trying to cook some food :P

[Enid_Puceflange]

Some poverty fibre optic sights for my springer shotgun 😁

 

 

 

Edited April 19, 2022 by Enid_Puceflange

[paradoxum]

Anyone good with modelling be able to help me tweak this?

 

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1773900

 

I've done a lot (removal of plastic mostly), but I need it to have more bits in other places etc so it fits properly.

 

I'm doing a rebuild of my pulse rifle with a new gun, and I'm determined to get a shotshell launcher in there.

 

 

I could fit it right here, and that bottom panel could be turned into a latch / door that opens for reloading, with some plastic tube on the inside as a barrel.

I'm not sure about how to trigger it yet though, probably some kind of 7-shaped button that goes down into where the camo tape is, it just needs to be able to push the shotshell valve to fire it, with a spring behind it. 

 

But anyway I need to take it apart and do proper measurements and can basically draw in paint what I need with the dimensions on it, shouldn't take anyone who knows how to do models well more than 10 minutes I imagine.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Edit: Can throw like 20quid your way.

Edited December 1, 2021 by paradoxum

[Adolf Hamster]

1 hour ago, paradoxum said:

Anyone good with modelling be able to help me tweak this?

 

so your intention is to put that in a position where it fires through the magazine tube on the underbarrel?

 

wondering if it might be easier to set it up like a martini-style block so you load the launcher same as if you were fitting the shell to the magazine?

[paradoxum]

7 hours ago, Adolf Hamster said:

 

so your intention is to put that in a position where it fires through the magazine tube on the underbarrel?

 

wondering if it might be easier to set it up like a martini-style block so you load the launcher same as if you were fitting the shell to the magazine?

 

The SPAS-12 cage.

It's use for housing a long tube NiMH battery. No Idea where the lipo is going, but that's an issuea to be resolved later.

 

 

This is what I have to work with internally.

 

Please ignore the mess. It was my first gun and I spent about 2 years dicking around with it, it's useless now just a wall decoration.

 

But a new Snow Wolf base is only £250, and I'm planning to spend £99 on a Warhead BASE motor for it, so it's pretty cheap considering it's one of my favourite guns and I want to rebuild it.

 

I am also dubbing the rebuild 'Xenobane'. Because I can and it's cool.

 

It's going to be an SSG with a 363mm barrel.

 

Parts list right now:

 

[Adolf Hamster]

that's more room than i thought there was.

 

would it be feasable to have a super shorty/masterkey setup stuffed inside that casing?

[paradoxum]

3 minutes ago, Adolf Hamster said:

that's more room than i thought there was.

 

would it be feasable to have a super shorty/masterkey setup stuffed inside that casing?

 

It looks roomy but it's deceptively roomy. When you put the shells together there's a ton of plastic that gets in the way which I need to remove. I'm going to practice with the parts I have now and cut away where the 3d-printed launcher can do, and figure out a way to mount it (would basically just be by a few screws into somewhere inside, doesn't have to be pretty.

 

Honestly I looked at doing this 4 years ago when I first got it, I think about 3-5 people total have done it over on the aliens forums from what I remember, and they had to do a ton of work and use some out of print mini launchers that you can't get anymore.

 

Best bet is to modify that shotshell launcher and make that bottom panel able to open downwards to lower the launcher for reloading. Just need some kind of metal latch I can attach to it + inside of the spas cage.

 

Just tested without the panel and I can push shells in with a bit of force, I shouldn't need to enlarge the hole, the plastic will give way enough to pop one in.

 

The launcher wouldn't be able to fit down outside of it for reloading, so it'd have to be mounted a bit forward and higher up, so when you drop the container down the shell slides out and can be reloaded.

 

And I'm just going to get a cheap tube of perspex from ebay to use as the 'barrel' to ferry the shotshell BBs out of the gun.

 

https://streamable.com/6qicg9

[Adolf Hamster]

yeah i was thinking initially that if you're loading via the existing port, might be easier to have a martini style system.

 

very quick and dirty concept of what i'm meaning:

 

idea is the block is sprung and replaces the faux loading door, you stuff a shell in like you would if you were loading it, you have the simple push button activator, and to remove the shell you just push the block up (there could be an extra bit sticking out so your thumb doesn't block the shell) with a very basic spring loaded ejector.

[paradoxum]

3 hours ago, Adolf Hamster said:

yeah i was thinking initially that if you're loading via the existing port, might be easier to have a martini style system.

 

very quick and dirty concept of what i'm meaning:

 

idea is the block is sprung and replaces the faux loading door, you stuff a shell in like you would if you were loading it, you have the simple push button activator, and to remove the shell you just push the block up (there could be an extra bit sticking out so your thumb doesn't block the shell) with a very basic spring loaded ejector.

That's a pretty good idea. Also looks a lot slimmer and could easily fit inside, I'll have to hold a shell in the middle of the cage around where it would be and measure the distance between the top/sides for making struts / mount points that can be screwed into the cage, measure distance between where I'm thinking the lever/button would be:

 

this is what i'm thinking, something like this. I'd have to remove the parts in there that hold the dummy shell etc, and I could dremel a shell into like, half, and then stick it inside the gap so it still has the faux shell visible. That or just remove it completely and use some metal sheet as a faux 'dust cover' (I think it has one when you cock it actually but I removed that early on in my first gun to make room for a bigger battery in there.

[Adolf Hamster]

1 hour ago, paradoxum said:

That's a pretty good idea. Also looks a lot slimmer and could easily fit inside, I'll have to hold a shell in the middle of the cage around where it would be and measure the distance between the top/sides for making struts / mount points that can be screwed into the cage, measure distance between where I'm thinking the lever/button would be:

 

this is what i'm thinking, something like this. I'd have to remove the parts in there that hold the dummy shell etc, and I could dremel a shell into like, half, and then stick it inside the gap so it still has the faux shell visible. That or just remove it completely and use some metal sheet as a faux 'dust cover' (I think it has one when you cock it actually but I removed that early on in my first gun to make room for a bigger battery in there.

 

i was thinking you were planning on having the "barrel" located approximately where the magazine tube would be on the mock version, so the whole mechanism would be lower down compared to where you have it drawn there.

 

the firing button might be tricky, as the way i had it in the model it'd be trying to tilt the block up as well as push forward, although maybe some sort of catch linked to the extractor or mounted externally (basically a side button) might be needed.

 

unless, perhaps go even simpler:

 

 

basically just a spring loaded catch- push the shell in it'll pop down and stop the shell falling out, to fire just push the button on the shell with your thumb, to remove just push the catch up and tilt the gun up to drop free.

 

only real downside is it won't look that pretty when loaded, but then that'll presumably only be in-game when nobody's really going to be seeing it (what with the whole being on the wrong end  )

[Enid_Puceflange]

Spotted this simple idea on a Korean Airsoft website when looking for a tip on one of my RIF’s 

Pretty simple and a doddle to make, the only painful bit was hot gluing the strings inside to help slow down the bb’s (who’d have thought Hot Glue can burn ya!)

9mm thick interlocking foam floor mats, the type used for the nursery play area - less than £10 on Amazon 

Double lined the back face opposite the Chrono, then approx 200m of string suspended from the top to snare the bb’s

Should save the TV from stray shots 😂

 

 

 

Edited April 19, 2022 by Enid_Puceflange