paradoxum

Since going from a small nuprol stick lipo to this after modifying my stock to hold it, I can't not destroy any piston I use. Spektrum 2200mAh 3S 11.1V 100C Smart LiPo Battery IC3 I started with DSGs, after breaking a few pistons and knurling the teeth on it and buying like 2 extras to keep trying, I gave up and went to 1:13, but it's the same, I've gone through about 10 pistons now, and this isn't my first build I know how to AoE and shim properly etc. Oh, I have also tried various strength springs along with spring guide spacers to make it super tight, no matter what configuration it just wrecks pistons. If it doesn't pull the metal rack off the piston and break the small plastic retainer on the front, it'll just grind down the teeth on both piston and gear. It seems like it's either too strong and pulls the rack off the piston, or the rack stays on and it just pushes the piston up and grinds on the teeth until it doesn't even pull. Yes have tried adjusting height of gear etc. I've honestly tried pretty much everything over like the year I was working on it, and just got fed up until now and since I spent so much money to build it I just want it bloody working. Have also tried about several differently cut tappet plates; (I haven't worked on it for like a year so just trying to find old pics now, got a recent desire to finally get it running.) You may have seen it before, it's the Orion; I have no idea what the setup was here but here's a clip of shooting at one point; https://streamable.com/isymmn It could fire like that for maybe half an hour before the piston breaks. Unfortunately it's an ICS gearbox. Parts list from my spreadsheet log; I was looking at the jager 2 piston; https://airsoftmutation.com/products/the-jaeger-mkii-piston-pre-order but it's expensive and I don't wanna just wreck that in 5 minutes too. Any real ideas guys?

thanks:D I'm codenaming it the 'Falken'. grip tape on the wml? if you mean the torch, it's on there because the rubber pad covering the button worn away and I needed some way to cover it. I might move it to the top rail though it'll look better. I just traced the lines from everywhere I put grip tap with paper, scanned it, then edited the file in mspaint to make it perfect, gonna print that out, tape it on top of my grip tape sheet, and cut them out nice and clean and redo it all - it's gonna look swag.

Sprayed a grip and some touch ups; should I keep that long outer barrel? I was gonna get a short 6" one so the suppressor is just poking out the front. I'm thinking so, has a short inner barrel anyway and I want it compact. Edit: Did a bit more on the stock; I think I'm gonna carefully cut proper griptape bits for all the sections so it looks nice and neat, really dig the look.

Finished painting new build so slapped the parts together for a picture. Need a new grip that fits, shorter outer barrel, and to put more grip tape on the recessed parts of the stock, and probably a grey/silver titan trigger. Any suggestions for grips that might look good on it? with battery extension:

That is some awesome looking blowback. is it because it's HPA'd up?

I give my guns/projects codenames, and I call my SCAR-H the 'Broadsword' - it is a heavy fucker for sure!

My EGLM finally arrived from a buddy in america, got through customs without issue and no import fees! Gonna have to dremel the front of it so it'll fit on with my PMM rail extension, but i'm really happy with how the whole two-tone look has come together. Just how I imagined it.

I'm waiting for warhead to get my motor back to me and I think I can finally call my SCAR-H 'Broadsword' complete. Real happy with how the two-toned stock came out, I had the cheekrest cerakoted black. (shout to Supreme Coatings) Just slapped the parts together because I wanted an up to date pic, grip is resting on a motor there..

Finished the stock mod for my ICS CQR 'Orion' Fits battery size H21.5 L115 W34mm https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/spektrum-2200mah-3s-11.1v-100c-smart-lipo-battery-ic3-443852 What I forgot to take a picture of is that you need to chop about 3 inches off the buffer tube. The stock is still completely stable without it. I had to get my black n' decker out for that.

A mighty haul.

Dang man. I just got around to watching this and I guess you missed the rest of the thread where I've determined that the balance connector board is perfectly fine (It even has balance error when you try to charge a lipo with no balance I was sitting there like "oh nice an easy fix - it's turned on and not apart!" hehe. Edit: Okay holy shit. I tried it anyway, and it works. I don't know how, I mean there's a video of me right there checking all the traces and it's fine. But it works. Thanks for that, one less thing I need to re-buy now. I suppose my idea about trying those 'balance connector boards' would have actually indeed worked, since they plug into the large connector.

need to revise.

Thanks will check this out later.

Not really 'made' anything, but wanted to separate my sector gears and couldn't figure out how after removing the screws and came up with this brilliant idea:

I'm really just trying to min-max as much as possible, I could just go with either or and probably never notice a difference, but part of the fun is tweaking stuff and optimizing it as much as possible for me. I'll go with bushings on bevel and sector like you say and bearings on spur I guess just to start with. ZCI steel bushings and EZO bearings

Yeah I did that with my pulse rifle (thompson). Got steel oval bushings and bearings for the others. That was just to upgrade from the plastic ones it had though and I wasn't thinking about performance like now.