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I'm not entirely sure where to begin, so I'll start with the biggest obstacle you've got here; This is illegal and cruel. You can't get a section 5 FAC to shoot foxes with .22 rimfire, needs to be minimum .223 because wounding an animal is unacceptable, needs to be a clean kill if you're going to shoot one. Go down this route if you like, but it don't think it'll be effective. It'll also mean you're a massive cunt.

Yeah, my old tri shot would occasionally record 1500+fps clearly wasn't actually doing that much. As for 1600fps killing someone? Dream on, I'd be amazed if that'd even penetrate sturdy fabric. Bear in mind that it's a .2g plastic projectile, it'd break the skin for sure but it's still carrying a conparitively tiny amount of energy. Approximately 1650 fps with 0.2g BB is 25 joules, an SA80 by contrast has a muzzle energy of 1850 joules.

Thing to remember when painting is that surface prep is the most imortant factor. Needs to be completely free of dirt and grease, running some fine wet and dry abrasive paper over it, clean it again with detergent (washing up liquid, diluted, rinse, dry, then ideally use IPA (isoproyl alcohol) and a lint free cloth to give a final clean, before spraying several LIGHT coats of paint from about a foot away, leaving a few minutes between coats. Fewer coats the better. Applying varnish after will not protect the paint if it hasn't been applied correctly to start with. Preparation is key to a decent finish. Also don't mix different types of paint (acrylic with enamel for instance) or you can end up with paint finish resembling crazy paving!

Never lube the barrel and hop up rubber. Hop up rubbers should be dry and a little bit sticky to grip the BB better. It certainly does not need lubrication,otherwise it will slip and give you bugger all range. Clan hop up rubbers by taking them out and bathing them in warm,soapy water. I find fairy liquid does a terrific job of cleansing hop up rubbers. Barrels have to be as even and polished and possible since the BB rides the top,Silicone oil inside the barrel will prevent corrosion,but ruin performance. Clean barrels out with rubbing alcohol,and polish thoroughly,maybe use a VERY LITTLE bit of compound suitable to the metal. Barrels should be dry- Silicone gets into the micro pores in the metal and can give an uneven slipperyness so the friction of the BB riding the top will be uneven. You may find after lubing the hop up rubber and barrel will results in awful performance,get some isopryl alcohol to clean the barrel and wash the bucking in warm soapy water like I said.

That guy who purposely point blanked someone in the head needs to find a new hobby! What an absolute douche I don't mind getting shot in the face if it's the only part of me on offer but point blanking someone in the head when you have the whole body avaliable is beyond rediculous!

the thing i was thinking was it would mean no wiring(which i'm not very good at) and all i would have to do is plug it in

One of the guys from my local site has an SLR with wooden furniture taken from a real steel. From what I can remember he had to modify it quite a bit to fit his AEG. If you've not found a better answer by the time I'm back from holiday I'll ask him and try to find out what he did to get it working.

Cyma are fairly good these days, as well as being easily upgraded if and when you when you want to. As a back up the MP5K should tick all your boxes, and ideal for CQB.

I think you would be better off using an air horn or one of those motion sensing bike alarms.

A good cleaning, a new hopup rubber and a new O ring for the piston. Check the gears and the piston for obvious wear. Get new ones only if needed. Check the nozzle if it can wobble on the piston head, get new one if it does. Get SRC parts if you can. If it still doesn't do the 330 fps at least, get a new spring too.

Not exactly a thing I've purchased in the usual sense, but the latest wallet emptying takes the form of getting the core components of my LM4 cerakote'd with some engraving and lathe work on the barrel.

In the Netherlands we founded this law: Here we are froced to associat with the NABV if we want to have or use our airsoft guns. This is aians this law and we are busy with going to court for this that the goverment is handeling against this law. The public safety is not in danger because look to Belgium or Germany or Spain. They can paly airsoft without being forces to associat. I have sended also with outhers a complain to the EU court and i'm busy with starting a cause in Netherland against the goverment. The firearms sporters already had a cause and they win it. So now only for airsoft. The only problem is that the goverment isn't taking action about it so thats why we also have send a complain to the EU court. This court only have a respondingtime of 1 year !!! so thats also why i'm starting a cause to the goverment. Meaby this is also a way for you to get rid of Ukara and ther rules.

Wow! there's alot of really good information in this thread. So I might as well thrown in my 2 cents. Barrel: I spary some pure silicon oil on the cleaning rod with cloth on it and run it down the barrel from the muzzle of the weapon, to avoid it hitting my Hop-Up. depending on how dirty the barrel is sometimes there is lots of black crap out of the barrel, other times nothing. I do this 2 or 3 times. Hop-Up: Keep this dry becuse you want friction to keep backspin on the BB. Gearbox: on the gears you can use white Lithium grease or Teflon. on the teeth of the gears, Shaft ( Insert Penis joke here ) and also the bearings. Dont go crazy but also dont use to little. When in doubt use alittle bit more becuse a dry gearbox is your worst enemy. Also dont forget to clean out the old stuff before adding the new grease. I use a tooth brush and WD-40 on all the metal parts BUT ONLY the metal parts.... Piston rails: Just a touch of while Lithium grease. Piston O-ring and cylinder head O-ring: Add a little silicon grease, Not oil as it is not thick enough. To the O-ring to allow it to seal better and expand alittle. That should cover it I think. Airsoft international did a really good article on greasing a gearbox Volume 8 Issue 1 It was a god send when I started. Also dont forget YouTube is your friend. List of what I use: 3-IN-ONE White Lithium spray grease. Castrol LM Grease. 3-IN-ONE Silicone Lubricant. Carlube Silicone Multi-purpose grease. WD-40

UKARA is a retailers association not the law, the Violent Crime Reduction Act is what we as British players would need to overcome. I honestly don't see it happening any time soon though.

Jesus Christ! Now goggles are going to get us all killed too! We're doomed!

Keep WD-40 away from your gub altogether. It is not a lubricant. It is not designed for lubricating anything in your gun.

BB's included - NO Lunch - hmmm dunno: TWA full day walk on - NO Young Guns Chobham - YES - some kind of chilli & beans potatoe stew stodge but grub all the same Hmmm - them mags, did think about trying them but thought they may not be easy to use with gloves on Just get used to winding mag when you behind cover and unless you have a really itchy trigger you will most likely choose your shot rather than spray n pray all the time and need constant winding Some mag winders seem to be more ergonomic than others - but unless you are supplying supressing fire you will probably find you won't go too mad unless you need to and just get used to winding when in cover (think everybody has failed to wind enough and get shot for their mistakes) Can use mid caps - not as quick to fill up, need a speed loader- some better than others but you never need to wind a low or mid cap - mid cap can go up to about 180-ish some say 190 mid cap but couldn't seem to get much more than 165 in mine - but 165 bb's no winding Never played there so can't say - times can really vary but a ROUGH guide: get there for sign in by 9:00am game play or breifing starts at 9:30am - long briefing then 10:00 game starts Lunch dunno 12:30 ish until 1:00 or 1:30pm Game resumes and finish about 4:00pm These are only rough guides you really gotta check site or ring them to confirm

Yeah that's what Rockstar said about Red Dead Redemption....

Just get an A&K PKM and be the envy or everybody!

You have alot of options at the price range. I take it you just want a good rifle. try these... ICS L85A2 ICS M4 ICS SIG 551 MRS G&G GK5C-L G&P Defender VFC HK416 More info would help

If you want a true military day at the range pick the wettest day of the year, get up at 6 stand in the rain for an hour waiting for someone with a key, pick up your rifle then cram yourself and 16 other blokes into a minibus and spend an hour driving to the middle of nowhere. Now for the real fun, make sure the range has a shelter that can either fit 4 blokes in or was constructed during the reign of Henry VIII so it leaks like a fucked fridge so either way your getting wet! Spend 45 minutes zeroing your rifle, make sure you put it on top of your daysack so you know it's yours and treat yourself to a nap. Wake up to the unit mong asking "Is this your rifle mate?" Don't worry it is and you get to spend another hour re zeroing it! Dinner time , get your self a soggy sandwich with one slice of ham/horse/donkey and a sausage roll 1% meat and the rest sawdust disguised as pastry Do one shoot before the range staff get bored and woooo you've all passed! Spend 30 minutes picking up brass and get back on the minibus. You think your days over ? Nope spend an hour cleaning your rifle with half of your cleaning kit missing/borrowed/not getting it back. I'm not bitter , honest

I wear sealed mesh glasses. People say a lot about fragments, but to be fair, you are hitting the smallest single target on a human... By design or by luck. Then if that round does hit your eye, it has to be at the right angle from a bad manufacturer, that cracks into small enough bits... It does happen, im sure.... But so does a lot of stuff. I'd be more worried about the drive back and the odds of getting into a car accident...

Laylax M110 Spring, 13 euro,literally just arrived at the local shop. Hopefully bring the gun up right to the legal limit at 328/330. Most sites allow a tolerance and the madbull chronos most palces use always read too low from what I've seen.. I also don't exactly like the quality of the Chinese spring I currently have in mine,whatever finish is on it is very poor,comes off easily and It's covering the internals in whatever powdery shit it's covered in. I do not have faith in it's longetivity either.

Just ... no. It can't. First off it takes over 10ml of air injected directly into a large vein to cause any sort of embolism, 10 ml is a significant amount of air its quite a large syringe. 2nd, the veins are under your skin, in order for a BB to penetrate a vein it first has to penetrate through the skin and cause deep vascular damage. 3rd, the veins and arteries are under pressure, greater pressure than the pressure of the air, we know pressure flows from high to low, if any damage opened up a vein blood would be flowing out preventing air from flowing in. 4th Gas under pressure dissipates into the air, you would not be able to accurately flow 10ml into the small opening of a vein with a gun. It is impossible to get an air embolus from a BB.

I strongly disagree with 'hand touch' knife kills. It just doesn't make sense. In a game where rubber knives are the cheapest peice of kit why not just blooming use one??? Also half the skill of a knife kill is taking it out quickly and quietly before using it. Just taking your hand off the gun reciever and sticking it out is just an absolute cop out. There's only one guy I know who can kill you with a tap on the shoulder and he don't airsoft A mate of mine once knife killed me 4 times in one skirmish because he is very very sneaky. On one occasion I felt the knife point into back, heard him safe knife kill, turned around and he wasn't there! Stealth level 1000 Also on the subject of 'feeling' hits I only ever where a tshirt with no vest/plate carrier so I feel them all. It's impossible for me to cheat even if I wanted too

What?! no, don't be retarded. No one is saying that shooting someone at point blank with a 500fps gun is a good idea, the MED is there for a reason but to suggest that snipers can 'bang' kill people inside their 30m MED is outrageous. If that were a rule I'd buy a sniper rifle tomorrow and never fire a shot because I wouldn't ever have to aim again; I could just run about shouting bang and people would be dead. If you have a sniper rifle that has a mandatory MED then its USELESS even as a prop inside of that MED, get another gun or go for the contact-kill. As for someone putting the muzzle of a loaded 500fps gun anywhere near my face (e.g. on my shoulder)... I dare you, I double dare you to try that. It'll end up with that 500fps gun in 2 bits over my knee and some tiny tears from the pleb who thought it was a good idea.

10 x 120rnd G&G mid caps

He was perhaps 10 m away as I recall not that it matters. If he had made physical contact then I would have taken a knife kill no question.

Lee Enfield!!!! And some silicon oil ready to strip it down and remove all the harmful grease they use when making these. Lube may also be handy when the customs charges are applied

The only thing I'm interested in is the new star wars battlefront. I may cry if it gets cancelled.

Currently the best buy sniper gun is A&K M24. It already has steel trigger mechanism. A few tweaks, a good hopup rubber, a barrel and you are good to go. However I usually recommend sniping to more experienced players. It is nothing like in the computer games. Play at least one year with AEG before taking up sniping or you will be really disappointed. The L96 without upgrade is just as accurate as a bad AEG. There is no hopup rubber available for it as far as I know so it is a pain in the *ss to get real accuracy out of it. You can get a hopup chamber for a lot of money that uses AEG rubber but that will get only AEG accuracy tops. You should go for a VSR based system - like the A&K M24.

My wallet lost a lot of weight today

yea the gun is modeled on gary gordons although being a bit of a BHD nut the camo is technically wrong