THE TM MWS thread

[Salamanca]

I have found p mags slow to fill, some more than others. What I do is heat the gas cannisters first by putting them on a radiator for a short while to increase internal pressure. If the cannisters are half full this is essential as the pressure is too low to over come the fill valve, and the internal gas pressure for any reasonable period of time. In terms of filling at game site , I keep the cannister in a thermos flask thermal jacket with two small rechargeable hand warmers on either side. I bought both the thermal jacket and the hand warmers cheaply on Amazon. Also small £9.99 digital scales are a great tool for keeping tabs on gas levels- an empty GM P Mag weighs 339/340 grams, and full to the limit is around 370 grams, with consumption at around 5 bbs per gram.      

[hunter511]

Im officially intrigued. Anyone got any ideas for how to build one of these? Forgotten weapons strikes again.

 

I can probs find the mp5 shroud and can I suspect its gonna be the front end underneath that'll be the issue.

Edited January 21 by hunter511

[JimFromHorsham]

9 hours ago, hunter511 said:

Im officially intrigued. Anyone got any ideas for how to build one of these? Forgotten weapons strikes again.

 

I can probs find the mp5 shroud and can I suspect its gonna be the front end underneath that'll be the issue.

if I recall @Davegolfis building one , I went with a 416 SD6 😛 

 

[Cipher-032]

Gunna pop in here as Ive got a bit of a issue with my MWS.

Ive got the annoying issue of Semi auto "run on". Basically if I fire the gun continuously in semi, it will some times it will fire more than one shot.
I did service the trigger pack with a small amount of Superlube MP grease, but Ive since learned/remembered that the MWS trigger pack doesnt like grease. So since Ive flushed it out with silicone spray as advised by Ollie Talks Airsoft. How ever he did mention about replacing the hammer? Nothing on what exactly. But sometimes as ive been testing this issue returns.

Ive said bugger it, and ordered a GM Full spring set. I do have a Dytac spring set in the trigger box currently but its several years old now.

I do also have a GM adjustable sear B for the trigger pull, and adjustable flat face trigger, but all grub screws are OUT so they dont do anything currently.

Curious if anyone else has run into this issue, and if so share your fix?

Video of the issue here:

https://youtu.be/jGMGM4Z-P8o

Edited January 25 by Cipher-032

[Ashbham]

Hi I have an MWS magazine and need to find the part MGG2-83 it is the part that screws into the bottom of the magazine and then the separate fill valve screws into this part, I’ve been trying to find a replacement part online but have had no luck  

 

Hopefully someone can help - I’m new to the MWS world 

 

kind regards

Ash

[Lexolotl]

Hey guys real quick question has anyone got these mags (Double Eagle 35rd Noveske N4 MWS Gas Magazine) to fit the mws as they state that theyre compatible with the double eagle n4 noveske and i bought them thinking they do fit but they literally dont i dont know if i need to get a refund or if they need to be modified to fit
  

[Madhouse]

While I love my AEG, have really got the GBB bug so am putting some cash aside to add another rifle to the collection.

 

I like the MK18 but understand there's some weird goings on with the rail nut which has put me off a bit and I don't want to jump straight into getting an M4A1 and then taking it to bits to turn it into a MK18. Which leads me to the URG-I which is the successor to the MK18, but my question for all you knowledgeable people is that does it have the same rail nut issues? (thinking those clamp bolts under the rail may be a clue here).

 

Thanks.

[JimFromHorsham]

36 minutes ago, Madhouse said:

While I love my AEG, have really got the GBB bug so am putting some cash aside to add another rifle to the collection.

 

I like the MK18 but understand there's some weird goings on with the rail nut which has put me off a bit and I don't want to jump straight into getting an M4A1 and then taking it to bits to turn it into a MK18. Which leads me to the URG-I which is the successor to the MK18, but my question for all you knowledgeable people is that does it have the same rail nut issues? (thinking those clamp bolts under the rail may be a clue here).

 

Thanks.

none of it is an issue if you have the right tools , I’ve done a few MK18’s for people and each one has come off with no issues , I see people saying they needed to cut them off and getting in a right mess but like I say with the right tools it’s not a problem . 

 

Edited February 2 by JimFromHorsham

[Madhouse]

Is it just a case of having to get something specific like the Bavtac tool then? i.e suck up the additional expense rather than bodge it on the cheap.

[Mr Dellski]

14 hours ago, JimFromHorsham said:

none of it is an issue if you have the right tools , I’ve done a few MK18’s for people and each one has come off with no issues , I see people saying they needed to cut them off and getting in a right mess but like I say with the right tools it’s not a problem . 

 

One of them. Thanks man 🙏🏻 

[Crazy_Crystal]

So I'm in the process of building up a toxicant rattler and I'm looking at the T8/EMG lancer mags. Has anyone got any experience with these? How do they compare to the stock mws magazines?

(For reference I have more than enough TM mws mags I just like the look of these for a .300 BLK build)

 

Thanks guys

Edited February 4 by Crazy_Crystal

[Cipher-032]

On 25/01/2024 at 22:34, Cipher-032 said:

Gunna pop in here as Ive got a bit of a issue with my MWS.

Ive got the annoying issue of Semi auto "run on". Basically if I fire the gun continuously in semi, it will some times it will fire more than one shot.
I did service the trigger pack with a small amount of Superlube MP grease, but Ive since learned/remembered that the MWS trigger pack doesnt like grease. So since Ive flushed it out with silicone spray as advised by Ollie Talks Airsoft. How ever he did mention about replacing the hammer? Nothing on what exactly. But sometimes as ive been testing this issue returns.

Ive said bugger it, and ordered a GM Full spring set. I do have a Dytac spring set in the trigger box currently but its several years old now.

I do also have a GM adjustable sear B for the trigger pull, and adjustable flat face trigger, but all grub screws are OUT so they dont do anything currently.

Curious if anyone else has run into this issue, and if so share your fix?

Video of the issue here:

https://youtu.be/jGMGM4Z-P8o

So to add to this issue in case anyone suffers the same:

• Strip and clean trigger box. Inspect your springs. I replaced ALL of mine as I had a old Dytac set for nearly 4 years. Some springs had actually compressed and failed.
• Relube with thin weight oil. No grease.
• Give a small spray of silicone oil on top once reassembled

Now having zero issues with Semi auto run on. Even readjusted my adjustable trigger and sears and works lovely.

Figured I put a means to an end some if someone searches for this issue.

[blazin23]

On 06/10/2022 at 13:40, blazin23 said:

I got the Laylax(Prometheus) 6.03mm (370mm) EG Inner Barrel https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/laylaxprometheus-603mm-370mm-eg-inner-barrel-for-m4a1-mws recently and discovered the TM hop rubber doesn't actually fit on it (the barrel 'lip' is a bit longer than the standard one).

 

Can anyone recommend a hop rubber that is longer and will fit? I have the laylax hop arm as well so aiming to use heavier weight bbs

Getting back into this again now - I don't think anyone responded - so could anyone confirm if it is just me being stupid, but the 370mm 6.03mm Laylax Prometheus barrel does NOT fit the stock TM hop rubber? I have seen other people mentioning using the 370mm barrel with the stock rubber, but the metal lip of the barrel extends slightly further than the stock one, so I can't see how a stock rubber would fit here?

 

Is the the Modify Tan bucking a good alternative?

[Mr Dellski]

On 02/02/2024 at 10:10, Madhouse said:

Is it just a case of having to get something specific like the Bavtac tool then? i.e suck up the additional expense rather than bodge it on the cheap.

 

Exactly that. I have this tool https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/black-rifle-tokyo-marui-mk18-rail-removal-tool-for-mp1522-barrel-nut which fits perfectly.

 

[Mr Dellski]

On 04/02/2024 at 14:27, Cipher-032 said:

So to add to this issue in case anyone suffers the same:

• Strip and clean trigger box. Inspect your springs. I replaced ALL of mine as I had a old Dytac set for nearly 4 years. Some springs had actually compressed and failed.
• Relube with thin weight oil. No grease.
• Give a small spray of silicone oil on top once reassembled

Now having zero issues with Semi auto run on. Even readjusted my adjustable trigger and sears and works lovely.

Figured I put a means to an end some if someone searches for this issue.

 

Totally agree with the no grease.

Tried a thin coat of LT2 only once after a trigger box clean and rebuild on my Tm Mk18.. Had run-on in semi-auto randomly and very annoyingly.

 

(It was/is a full CNC steel trigger box however with all sears/everything else inside also CNC steel)

 

Thin weight oil (and not much) is the way. No run-on 👍

[Crazy_Crystal]

2 hours ago, Mr Dellski said:

Totally agree with the no grease.

Tried a thin coat of LT2 only once after a trigger box clean and rebuild on my Tm Mk18.. Had run-on in semi-auto randomly and very annoyingly.

 

(It was/is a full CNC steel trigger box however with all sears/everything else inside also CNC steel)

 

Thin weight oil (and not much) is the way. No run-on 👍

On a similar thread I've had really good results using GT-86 which is a PTFE spray that is also a dry lube which means that it doesn't attract and hold dust.

 

With regards to particularly silicon grease (not oil) this should be avoided for metal on metal and sliding contact as it heats up and then binds. It's not a lubricant but rather a grease to protect o-rings from drying out as well improving the air seal. Other greases will also likely attract dirt and bind up with time as well. Where they do work well is where the surfaces don't slide such as in a gearbox because there is simply less friction involved.

 

But yeah, I'm a big fan of GT-86 and some bisley gun oil on the bolt for smoothness 👍

[Tactical Pith Helmet]

On 15/02/2024 at 13:05, Crazy_Crystal said:

On a similar thread I've had really good results using GT-86 which is a PTFE spray that is also a dry lube which means that it doesn't attract and hold dust.

 

With regards to particularly silicon grease (not oil) this should be avoided for metal on metal and sliding contact as it heats up and then binds. It's not a lubricant but rather a grease to protect o-rings from drying out as well improving the air seal. Other greases will also likely attract dirt and bind up with time as well. Where they do work well is where the surfaces don't slide such as in a gearbox because there is simply less friction involved.

 

But yeah, I'm a big fan of GT-86 and some bisley gun oil on the bolt for smoothness 👍

It's GT85!

 

I use it all the time.  Great stuff.  You can get it in trade cans of 5L and 1L pump spray bottles too.  The 1L are favourite.

 

[Crazy_Crystal]

20 hours ago, Tactical Pith Helmet said:

It's GT85!

 

I use it all the time.  Great stuff.  You can get it in trade cans of 5L and 1L pump spray bottles too.  The 1L are favourite.

 

Thanks for correcting me, that's the stuff. Toyota have a lot to answer for confusing me 🤦‍♂️😂

 

But thanks for that I didn't realise they offered 1 litre and 5 litres versions!!!

[C-Diddy]

After a break from airsoft of several months (not planned, just life happening) I finally got to the range yesterday.

 

I took all my AEGs and my two MWS. Thankfully, the AEGs were all fully functioning, so when it had warmed up a bit, I started with the MWS.

 

I'd forgotten just how much fun they are. My old faithful short URG-I build was great, pinging .3s out to the end of the range snappily, and with a good degree of accuracy. All the TM and GM mags were still gas-tight and I was grinning like a twat, blatting away.

 

Then it came to the more troublesome long boi build. This fucker is still so inconsistent. Range is absolutely fine, but without shifting POA, shots are still going left, right and skyward. Looking down the barrel, the hop looks to be sitting straight, so I'm at a bit of a loss. 

 

Any thoughts?

[Sewdhull]

Hop rubber knackered, BB placement inconsistent, nozzle maybe for that.

If range is fine the BB is getting hopped tho.

[C-Diddy]

Rifle has the OG TM hop rubber, but less than 1,000 rounds through it. Honestly, it's really annoying me because I know how awesome it should be

[Frank Castle]

Hi all, great thread and it's convinced me to pick up a TM MWS GBBR. I was looking at a DMR build, site limits are 1.48 joules for a DMR at 400 fps on .2's. FPS chart below.

I was wondering how far i could get bb's out to (Flat trajectory), on those fps limits - is 80 meters achievable? 

 

Would it be the following upgrades,

Tightbore barrel - any suggestions on bore size and brand? - I could run a longer barrel into a suppressor if it helped achieve greater range.

New nub - SiXG?

New hop rubber -  any suggestions

NPAS - i think we have a few options now, is RA Tech the best one?

What weight bb, i assume maybe .4's or as heavy as the hop can lift.

 

Has anyone built a DMR, any suggestions?

 

Looking at the m4 or the MK18 GBBR.

 

Any help, info etc is much appreciated.

 

Thanks,

Mark

[The_Lord_Poncho]

As an observation, that is quite a restrictive DMR rule at that particular site. Only 1.48j/400FPS AND a 30m MED is fairly punitive, and I'm not sure the extra few meters range that could be achieved with the additional circa .3J would in any way outweigh the disadvantage of a 30m MED.

 

As a comparison, I'm used to playing at a site whose DMR rules are 1.88J (equivalent of 450fps on a 0.2g BB), and has a MED of 25m. The additional power allowable gives you a more meaningful edge over the typical AEG, and the slightly lower MED gives you less occasions when you need to switch to a sidearm, and more of a fighting chance to be within the useful range of your side arm when you do have to switch.

 

Honestly, with the DMR rules at your site as they are, it would seem better to focus on squeezing all possible performance out of the gun whilst remaining below the standard 1.13J limit in my view.

 

edit: to add, i would expect that the measures which you have listed would do a very good job of extracting maximum performance out of the rig, at whatever power level you decide upon, but i will defer to the opinions of others who have better knowledge of this particular platform.

Edited February 21 by The_Lord_Poncho

[Sewdhull]

In fairness few dmrs will meaningfully outrange a good aeg. But sniping is a laugh if the site suits it.

As far as a dmr goes, good hop nozzle and barrel are really the things. Heavy BBS too and consistentcy 

OBS a little more joulage for another 10m of range.

Tightbore Vs normal won't do much for anything really do long as the barrel is straight smooth and clean.

Edited February 21 by Sewdhull

[Frank Castle]

 

 

16 hours ago, The_Lord_Poncho said:

As an observation, that is quite a restrictive DMR rule at that particular site. Only 1.48j/400FPS AND a 30m MED is fairly punitive, and I'm not sure the extra few meters range that could be achieved with the additional circa .3J would in any way outweigh the disadvantage of a 30m MED.

 

As a comparison, I'm used to playing at a site whose DMR rules are 1.88J (equivalent of 450fps on a 0.2g BB), and has a MED of 25m. The additional power allowable gives you a more meaningful edge over the typical AEG, and the slightly lower MED gives you less occasions when you need to switch to a sidearm, and more of a fighting chance to be within the useful range of your side arm when you do have to switch.

 

Honestly, with the DMR rules at your site as they are, it would seem better to focus on squeezing all possible performance out of the gun whilst remaining below the standard 1.13J limit in my view.

 

edit: to add, i would expect that the measures which you have listed would do a very good job of extracting maximum performance out of the rig, at whatever power level you decide upon, but i will defer to the opinions of others who have better knowledge of this particular platform.

 

Yeah i did notice that after reading a few posts on here and thought that was a little low, you do make a good point and probably makes sense to build the best 1.13j gun i can within those FPS limits.

I assume the most usable range then would be around 65 meters as that seems to be the magic number for most of the TM guns i see after a few upgrades. 

Is a bit of shame as i quite fancied a DMR but if its not going to out range a decent AEG by much then its not worth it. 

Edited February 22 by Frank Castle