The_Lord_Poncho

All in the title really! I've struggled for years to find a source of adequate quality Crye style trousers that have a sufficiently long length inner seam - for around £65 or less. Most clones seem to only come with regular, and occasionally short length legs. Specifically I'm after a 36 inch waist, 34 inch inner leg. I'm a little fed up with ordering chinese XXXXL, and then having to get out the sewing machine to bring in the waist/seat, and lengthen the lower leg hem! I did find that Bulldog used to do them when UKMC Pro was open, but with the demise of that shop, my source has dried up, and my current bulldog combats are on their last legs.... Anyone have any pointers?

I appreciate that - I suppose that I have never thought the buckings would be contaminated from new.

It depends upon the sites that you play at. At the sites I frequent, there is no rule that states that a DMR must have a real world equivalent rifle that is employed in that type of role. But some sites do make this demand - e.g. that (with a couple of exceptions such as the Mk12 SPR), the rifle model is based upon a calbre larger than 5.56. Other than that - the standard rule is that full auto capability is deactivated.

Well, I've never done this - does it make a difference? Just to get any factory residue - silicone etc off it?

When i played (probably circa two months ago now - i lose track of time) at Dogtag, it was the same - probably went down to 10-15 per team after lunch. But to be honest, I preferred that. I tend to feel the same at Driver Wood too, my other local site - the lower number sessions seem to me at least to open up additional latitude for low cunning, or bold aggression - without such attempts being thwarted 99% of the time by a complete saturation of the playing area with enemy players.

Catch the train from Clapham Junction to Three Bridges, and there are a few good woodland sites within a very short taxi ride. As a rental player, my instinct says that, of those, you would have a better time at Driver Wood- where the terrain is a bit more of a leveller when you have the rental kit than at Dogtag.

Might as well, yes

In comparison to the above, just a rather modest real steel XM177/Car 15 slim handguard from Brownells as I'm fed up with the airsoft version that I previously slapped on the Cyma being really flexy and creaky. For something that you are in contact with all the time, it really detracted from the feel of the rif, and for £25 posted, I thought I couldn't go wrong. Might need to remove the internal heat shield to fit in the batteries though!

They don't have to be bad - I grew up on single shot spring BB guns! Back in the day through, you could only really buy Tokyo Marui versions, and you had to build them up from a kit. As you have only had it two days, perhaps return it and try and get your money back. If you can't be bothered/don't wish to do that, then from your description, all that can really be concluded is that the top of the magazine is too high or otherwise somehow catching upon/impeding the mechanism within the slide as its pulled back. Perhaps try racking the pistol without the magazine fully inserted - maybe not inserted fully home by only a mm or so. If they seems to work, then you can look at somehow filing down the inside of the magazine catch, or the slot on the mag that it locks onto so that the mag permanently sits a ;little lower.

I'm thinking that is only possible if the bearing is physically reversed? It's a while since I changed any bearings in a gearbox, but from memory they are 'lipped' so can't push through the holes in the gearbox casing like that, unless you've inserted it from the wrong side of the shell (or the holes in the gearbox case are massively enlarged/rounded off from a previous seized bearing).

Locally, its about £25 rental, vs £15 walk on - so your three games to get UKARA would only cost you an extra £30. If your local sites are much more expensive than that, why not just buy a cheap two tone, and sell it on once you get your UKARA?

Another possibly obvious question - noting that the gun contains a mosfet, there may well be a drain on the battery when it is connected. Are you leaving the battery in it, and connected? If you have done that, even for a few days, it is possible that you have drained the lipo to a voltage that has caused damage to the battery - i.e. it won't really take charge any more. When you buy a replacement battery, as per the suggestions above (i have found Turnigy batteries, purchased from Hobbyking good and super cheap), ensure that you never store the battery connected, and ideally store the battery at a 2/3rds charge (a so called 'storage charge' if you aren't using it for a month or so,

Decided to roll out the AAP (TTI) carbine for the first game at Driver Wood on Saturday - now sporting a 310mm new maple leaf inner barrel, and running on mini MP5 mags via an Airtac mag adapter. Accuracy and range were now pretty good on 0.36 BBs - with the HPA reg set on circa 110PSI/1.8j. The odd flyer, but got some good hits, and the clack clack of the bolt+ slight feedback was great fun. Second game I switched to the Noveritsch SSX303. I've never been that happy with the accuracy from it, but I'd recently swapped in a new silicone MR hop bucking, and a mini TDC screw+ CNC hop arm from Tridos - and, wow, what a difference they have made! Again, running an airtac adapter (this time taking 30rd shotgun shells), the gun was getting incredible range on 1.8j, good accuracy, and is super quiet. At the start of the second game I legged it , and spent the first ten minutes of the game taking out the their team as they advanced past the side of me - not one of them had a clue where they had been shot from, enabling me to to achieve the same results in the second wave until I got bored and moved off. The Driver Wood game play has become so much better now they have moved to roving spawns and ditched the 'medic' arm bands - marshals seem to be able to equalise game play a little by moving the spawns from very dominant teams back a little further to the rear, game play is more fluid around the playing area, and hit taking seems to have dramatically improved - no doubt as there is no longer a 5 min trudge back to spawn.

I played at Driver Wood on Saturday morning - and the orange arm bands are no more! Looks like someone was listening..... After the briefing, out came a big box of much more subdued purple arm bands. Now to see if any of the regulars who always stand on the 'green team' side of the briefing area prior to the bands being given out start to migrate across to other side of the safe area!

A bit of grease in the cylinder too whilst you have it apart! The anti reversal latch is a right pain, and to a slightly lesser extent, the trigger (at least for me). Both will frequently pop out when you try to put the two halves of the shell back together.

In that price bracket/between the two you are considering, go with the WE. Many WE products get mixed reviews, but the one thing that most people can agree on is that their Glocks are pretty good. I have a Gen 5 Glock 19 from them, and a Gen 3 Glock 17 - both have been great. Prices can vary significantly on these, so do shop around. Also, the WE Glock mags are generally pretty well regarded, and can be had from overseas sellers (e.g. Hong Kong based) a little cheaper than from the UK if you are prepared to wait a few weeks for them to turn up. I've never had a Raven pistol, but from what I read, they are a bit of a budget gun, and the quality/QC is variable.

Agreed that his prices are bonkers at times (that said, I put an order in a year or so back for a few non overpriced items, and the service/comms were very good). I don't particularly have a moral judgment on his pricing though - people don't need to buy anything from him - we just live in a capitalist world!

The other thing to be mindful of is of course the condition of your battery. An old, or poorly made battery that has been left to drain below it's lowest recommended voltage previously will not be holding the capacity it says on the sticker..... I have bought a few aliexpress batteries as I'm a sucker for such things, and had very mixed results. But if the battery gives you good performance in other guns, or swapping in a similar capacity battery into the mp5 gives the same results, then might be the gun. I tend to swap my 1300mah batteries out after each 1hr game in most of my guns that use them, whether they run down or not - that's probably anything from 300 to 700 shots for me.

To be fair, 450mAh is tiny - which gun was this in? I can happily (well, reasonably happily - it's a squeeze) get a 2200 7.4v nunchuck battery in the front handguard of my Cyma MP5 - which looking at your list might have the tightest battery space of your current guns..?

Ah, got you. I notice they have built an outdoor CQB complex there too - looks really good, but they never seem to use it on Wednesday nights. Does it get used on the Sundays? If so, any good?

I'm sure that you won't be disappointed. It's tightly run, and there is minimal waiting between games - so once the games get going (circa 7:30 after the briefing), you actually pack quite a lot of game play into an evening (finishes just before 11pm). One guy had some form of night vision last night - said that it wasn't hugely helpful due to depth perception issues - and to be fair, i can imagine it might be more hassle than its worth in that sort of environment where everything is very up close and personal. Definitely worth a try though - you may be onto a winner! Due to the nature of the place, lots of opportunity for torches and optics to get shot out, so I'd advise a protector on the NV if you do bring it. Only downsides of the place in my view is that they lock the car park gates (they wish to sign everyone in and out for safety reasons/making sure no one is left lying unconscious in a cupboard at the end of the night etc) - laudable, but when you have a 45 minute drive home, waiting 15 minutes at 11 pm for a marshal to come and unlock the gate is just a bit irritating....

To echo the above, I have one particular replica - bought on this forum second hand that shoots great (at AEG limits), is really snappy, and doesn't sound like the gearbox is badly shimmed. But I always need to take a spare battery into a game with me when i use it - for some reason it gets through a battery (to the point where the gearbox locks up) in under an hours skirmish - whereas other 350fps rifs I use will happily run off the exact same battery for 2-3 hours. But ultimately, if we can afford a spare Lipo to bring with us (and lets face it, these days they are pretty cheap - especially with Hobbyking having reopened in the UK), it's possibly a bit of an academic discussion!

Superb evening last night at Invicta Blacksite (CQB). The changes they have made in the past few months to the layouts, including knocking more crawl holes through walls etc have really helped ease choke points and allow some sneaky indoor flanks! Great fun, good game play, and as ever, easy to strike up a conversation and rapport with the regulars and newbies alike. Cracking way to spend a Wednesday evening which would otherwise have been alternatively spent inevitably falling asleep in front of youtube nonsense. But my god those finger and neck hits still hurt today!

I bought a Krytac CRB as my first gun after a fair bit of research. I now have a bit of a collection and rotate my guns so they all get a go every now and then. I've never opened it up, and the range and reliability stock has been superb. It just keeps soldiering on. I think the overspin problem that people talk about is when they put a high speed/torque motor in- never had an issue with the stock (UK spec) Krytac motor. As above though, whilst I can't fault the Krytac, these days there are plenty of great options that are a touch cheaper- specna, cyma platinum (but run on a 7.4 lipo to be gentle to the MOSFET), double eagle etc.

I've possibly misunderstood what you are asking here - but i have always run a ZCI plastic hop unit, complete with ML Macaron (and i think likely, an omega nub but i can't quite remember)+the original barrel in my UTR 45. Out of the box i was getting weirdly inconsistent power and hop (entirely unusable), so had to switch out the hop etc . And its been absolutely fine ever since....