Samurai

What's the current fps? How good is the airseal? What fps do you want?

The first upgrade should be an Action Army hopup unit and the barrel that's needed for it.

The FET died probably. If they are using normal FET and not logic one that operates on very low voltage, and your battery can't supply enough current so it drops voltage, that can easily burn the fet. If it dies, it short circuits it's contact.

The Ares' gearbox is quite different with the microswitch, the piston release lever, etc. I haven't tried it but I would assume too that it needs some dremeling at least. The Boyi G36 has the same gearbox though. Maybe you can find that somewhere.

I run a sub 350 bolt action on games where the distances are a bit shorter, and an 500 fps one where there are big, open areas. The sub 350 is great fun but does need at least the same amount of tinkering as the 500fps one. The max effective range with a gun like that is about 65-70m and can use 0.30 or 0.32 max. If you have a vsr rubber, I suggest using nineball, if AEG rubber, then purple prometheus. Action Army hopup unit and a good barrel is also most welcome. The good news is that you can keep the trigger unit and piston.

Cyma Mp5s are pretty good. AKs are better though.

The spring that pulls back the trigger contact is broken / not in place.

BB weight and quality affects the accuracy the most. Next is hopup rubber. Purple prometheus, blue Madbull are good. Then the nub: don't use hard one. Then the FPS consistency. Then the barrel.

That is supposed to be a chestrig. Wear it much much higher IMO.

It looks like it is a GBBR lower receiver with a properly, but "home" made AEG buffer tube adaptor. But that would mean some hacking around the grip too. Strange.

But you can't get a license for the PMR frequencies. In the UK there is no legal way to use this radio on PMR frequencies AFAIK.

Classic Army. Not good, but does the job. I hate dropleg things. My pistol's place is on the belt.

It's a multiplier to show how big current the battery can supply. Usually there are 2 of these: 30C / 15C or 50C / 25C, etc. The first shows how big current it can supply for a short period of time (burst rate). Meaning seconds. The second is how much it can supply continuously. So on the trigger pull you get an impulse of high current that levels to the lower value in a few seconds. The value itself is a multiplier to the capacity of the battery. So an 1000mAh battery with 20C rating gives 20x1000mA = 20A. An 1500mAh with 30C gives 45A. Normal AEGs use about 15-20A. If you have a battery that can't supply the needed current, the ROF will be lower, or the motor won't even be able to move the gears. (Because in this case the voltage drops, hence the beeping lipo guards on firing.) High torque motors, powerful springs may need currents above 100 Amps. The more powerful your setup is, the more current it needs.

Doesn't really matter. FPS is not the main factor if you can shoot people or not. In fact, it contributes far less than you think.

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Simple. Stop sweating. While operator ninja gear looks cool, you will start sweating the minute you start the game. Remove layers of clothes. Remove scarfs, remove headgear that doesn't allow sweat to evaporate. Dress so that you are a bit cold on the briefing, that way you will be just perfect while playing and fog much less. Also don't use mouth protection that directs your breath up to the goggles. Use anti-fog things as people mentioned above. Still fogging? Try shooting glasses instead of goggles. Not for heavy CQB though. Oh, and one more mean thing. Start running 1-2 times a week if you don't already so a simple game doesn't make you sweat that much.

Some 1000+ miles from here unfortunately.

Well, why not. Machine gun nest with sandbags and entrance-thing on the top of a steep slope. We built a few like that and some fire positions too like this:

That's called glue. Not that thick. Just some high speed lithium grease or similar.

Welcome. If the battery doesn't come with the gun, forget NiMh, go for LiPo. That means the battery charger also should be swapped for a lipo charger. Those are much better batteries and shouldn't cost more. Don't get 0.20g BBs. Use 0.25g.

All the above plus correct cylinder-barrel ratio and a foam filled suppressor will eliminate the piston's sound. I found that bearing instead of bushings are quieter but those should be at least 8mm. Maybe good quality bearings and 7mm for normal AEG is fine too. Thick grease on the gears. Don't forget proper motor height.

The site says it's 7.5 inch. The STTI or TM one is almost 10 inches long. It won't fit unfortunately.

Pretty f-ing good deal if you want to use those. Most of those are very special guns so selling the ones you don't need might take some time / reduced price. But even if you sell them on a low low price, still should make much more than 550.

The film is coming too: