Samurai

G3

Yes. Clean it properly, and switch the piston head OR the cylinder head to a POM one. Ready. And throw away your silicone spray. Of course if you find the hopup bucking torn, then replace that as Duck said.

Acetone dissolves ABS which is the plastic of the airsoft guns.

Installing a microswitch won't solve that. You need to pull the trigger fully, all the time.

Problem with airsoft: In the UK skirmishes are like paintball games. That's because games are run by the fields and most of those evolved from paintball fields. If you have only played in the UK you don't know how fun airsoft can be where teamwork is the first, where you depend on your fire team where there are proper objectives to achieve and the actions of a team is coordinated by a commander. The games in the UK should evolve but because here the field owners organize games it will always be playing paintball with airsoft guns. If there would be dedicated game organizers who are independent of a field, games could evolve. And this - as most of the things in the UK - comes down to insurance companies. They don't let you play airsoft anywhere legally even if the owner of an area would allow it. This way we have to use the established, boring and paintball like fields and we are stuck, because they won't risk profit. (Offtopic rant on insurance companies: here they are so powerful you have to get insurance for everything. And they make you pay a fortune. In my old country my car insurance costed me about £10 a month, and when there was an accident, they covered it no probs. Here I pay 15x more and when someone bumped into my car and even stated it was her fault, I didn't get paid for the repairs.) (But apart from the insurance companies, airsoft and customer service, the UK is great. )

Yes

I don't know why the hatred in the UK towards the SRC. Maybe the old ones were crap? Don't know. The current SRC M4s are exceptionally good. Those have GB internals better than most people put in their guns when upgrading. The only thing I don't like in there that they have metal piston head and metal cylinder head and that combo kills any V2 box. The externals are also great. CNC'd ris, aluminium body, etc.

The stock motor is very weak. I might have plastic bushings. Maybe the new ones still have plastic bushings. I don't remember. If you want longer barrel, don't get an mp5k. Trade it with an m4 or something. The only reason to get an mp5k is the size. With it's short barrel it is still very usable on 50m. Replace the hopup rubber with some good quality one.

The final step is the crucial one I think. After you use whatever you find to "crown" it. Dremel, crown tool, etc. Then you look down the barrel into a light and you will see a dark line at the end of the barrel. I removed that with an x-acto knife.

Yes. The rubber around the mesh is hard to find, but I saw someone made a nearly identical thing from a chinese mesh mask. Supposedly you can use a hairdryer to soften the glue and remove the thing around the edges then cut the mask to size with tin snips. I use an elastic strap around my neck, not the top of the head as with normal masks.

If that's the question then yes. Heavier BBs retain their speed better. On the first 20 meters they start slower but all weights are so fast there, the difference is milliseconds. After that, heavy BBs retain the speed better. This graph is for BBs fired from an 1.14 Joules (350fps with 0.20) gun.

It can be done with minimal tools. I'm using a cut down Marui barrel in my main gun for about 4 or 5 years. The same barrel even though I changed the gun around it 2 times.

I use a small mesh that only covers the mouth. I wear it lowered when out of range / no contact but as soon as there is a possible contact, I pull it up. When lowered it is hidden in the shemag, and I can pull it up even without using my hands. With no shemag because of dresscode:

I hate the transparent guarder rubber. Too soft, it will double feed in no time.

^^this As said, good quality and heavy BBs are the key. But first: clean the gun properly. If you can't take the barrel out, then use the cleaning rod with a slice of a paper towel with rubbing alcohol (isopropyl) to clean everything, including the hopup rubber. Do this a few times until it comes clean out. Then use dry paper towel and then do a few shots to clean the rest. If you can take the barrel out (and put it back properly) then use warm soapy water to clean the rubber and the barrel, then warm water. This usually improves accuracy significantly. In a normal AEG I use 0.28 or 0.30g BBs. Way more accurate than light ammo and fly further and gets there faster. I just moved to a house where I have a 45m range and I tested my 340 fps sniper rifle. With 0.28 it shoots the 45m in a high arc trajectory but with 0.36 it's almost a straight line. So imagine what happens on let's say 55m with this setting. The 0.28 will hit the ground but the 0.36 will still be flying. They both can reach longer distance but with lighter ammo I would have to aim way above the target. Anyway. Clean the gun, use good quality and heavy BBs. Make sure your gun shoots 320+ fps and with some consistency (+-5fps is okay). Put some time into setting the hopup and the sights. First set the hopup, then the sigths to about 30-40m. Then learn to shoot. This takes some time, but this improves the accuracy a lot. First learn to shoot a target at 30-40m from standing and on one knee because these will be the most used positions. Then stand sideways, turn toward the target and shoot. Then start standing with your back to the target. Then learn shooting from cover. Then learn shooting on the move. While doing this use single shots and make sure the first shot hits. (There are a lot more to practice, this is just for improving accuracy.) Only after these should you consider upgrading the gun IMO.

The air can escape through that groove in the barrel. If the barrel is longer than the original you need to swap the cylinder to one that's higher in air capacity. If it still has the original cylinder, the piston impacts before the BB leaves the barrel, the pressure drops behind the BB and it bounces around the barrel. That can give it an unwanted spin too. So I suggest to put in the original barrel or one similar. If your airseal and barrel length is correct, I believe you will find it will shoot too hot. The previous owner compensated for these losses with a too powerful spring.

Don't change anything in it until you found the part causing the problem. Then fix that. As proffrink said, the barrel+hopup is the first suspect.

But the answer is the same. Throw this away, get an AEG. LPEGs are not suitable for airsoft.

95% of times you are not outranged because of your gun or gear. You can spend any money, and you will still be outranged.

Competition.

I found that if you have paintball and airsoft in the same site, the airsoft games will be like paintball games. Which is not good. A lot of players in a small area shooting and running a lot. Not good at all.

I also use it like proffrink. I cut my lens protectors from the safety goggles from poundland.

That is a design problem with the V2. You have to do full trigger pulls every time. That's something we all had to learn. The only way to fix that is to install a programmable "mosfet" (it is a microcontroller with sensors and a mosfet actually) that completes the cycle fully even if you release the trigger too early.

Using a rubber knife to touch it to the shoulder (and counting to 5 so it's not just rushing with a knife) for a silent kill is okay. I've been playing airsoft for 8 years now and never had a chance to do it. Fighting with rubber knifes is a very-very bad idea. Way too dangerous and people would be carried away and hurt each other.

It would benefit from a checkup. Re-greasing and replacing dry and old O rings and the hopup rubber.