Samurai

Are you rebranding?

And field of view doesn't matter with red dots because you use them both eyes open.

Any aimpoint replica will be better than these cheap "holosight" clones. M3 or T1, depending the size you want.

My always evolving rifle.

PMd

A fellow forum member was in need.

Ooooh. I have my eye on this.

I don't get it how it works. The nut seems to be glued in and the bottom part doesn't have a nut. So it seems somehow there is a threaded rod that can move up and down but can't turn.

Designed and printed a TDC. Download it if you want: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1808598

Not worth £1. Useless as a sniper rifle out of the box, breaks quickly and there are no parts for it to upgrade or replace the broken ones. Not compatible with anything. The position of the front sling mount is unique to this, if you see that, it's this model. It's an AGM originally. Not to mention that you can get a brand new Bar-10 for that price and that's a great choice. When it is in stock in Poland that is.

Swiss Arms SA1. Piece of cr*p. http://www.airsoftsniperparts.com/identify-your-rifle

The current JG versions have that vertical BB tube on the hopup itself. All the other versions have it on the magwell. If the magwell and the hopup has it, just cut it off from the magwell.

Make sure the G36 mag fits in the pouch you choose. A single G36 mag will fit a double M4 pouch if there is no separator in it. Also the g36 mags has those things that clip them together and they catch on anything horizontal in the pouch. Elastic pouches won't work either. You can get an M4 magwell for the g36 though, that solves this problem.

Excellent choices. Get at 0.25 or heavier BBs. Don't go for the plate carrier, it's very cumbersome. Get a chestrig or a molle belt or both. Helmet should be the last on your shopping list. Get good boots, with good socks and maybe a gel insole for it. Edit: Proffrink ninja'd me.

There is a custom tab that's an app: https://www.facebook.com/asggunfire/app/134506053246185/ Doesn't work currently though.

I'm really into this flash hider designing now.

Did it for a request. (I hope the image shows.)

Yes. And in my thingie I have the fix for that too. At least when he posted it the BB feeding tube was still not long enough.

Use this for the lower part, I fixed it. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1420730 Go for the ...part2 from both of these, they are better.

Resurrection! Yes, it is very strong.

1000 on auto is less wear. When you pull the trigger the battery gives a higher current for a second (that's the second C rating on the lipo, but other types has this too). As the trigger contacts move close to each other, there is a tiny spark just before they make contact. This burns through them in time. Getting a mechanical system to move from a stop always require more force than keeping it in motion. If the system is too fast and on auto the next cycle starts before the piston fully returns then it strips the piston or the gear so that would be more damaging. It's a similar effect as a bad AOE.

A good, upgraded TM MK23 can shoot a human target multiple times at 80m. This was on a range built in a hangar for airsoft accuracy and range testing.

Cheers. PLA. I found it stronger than ABS four these kind of prints. It's not as brittle as ABS. Spray putty, sanding and black matte paint works for me the best, however I tend not to bother with it for myself. Probably I will just sand it a little and paint it.

It won't cause internal problems, but it will cause social problems because most sites use single shot only rule in CQB situations.

My eyes are bleeding from exhaustion but who needs sleep after a f*cked up day of work when there is 3d printing to do. V2 of the Mp5k minimalist grip. It only needs adjusting half millimeters around the front now.