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I think "Ted" is having some issues https://www.usedairsoft.co.uk/user/profile/730363

People selling who've neglected to read the Paypal T&C's, where it explicitly says the seller is responsible for the fees, and trying to pass that on to the Buyer. Seriously, it takes half a second to calculate it and factor it in to your costs.

After the debacle with my order getting nicked from my mailbox because Evri thought it would be a good idea to leave it super visible on a very busy street just down from the rough part of town, I disputed the order and the seller basically just said they'd send me the products again. It was only £10 worth of cheapo Aliexpress inserts, but they have now arrived and my lightweight setup is complete. It's super easy to swap between weapons with the inserts and if I like it I may splash out on a proper Haley Strategic D3CRM plus inserts instead of the Aliexpress clone stuff here (I also have some 9mm SMG inserts as well for my mp9, but I mostly snipe or DMR so I only included those in the picture). Full loadout allows for 4 spare pistol mags, 5 spare MWS mags / 4 spare m700 mags, and my rangefinder in the chest rig and belt (waiting on a kydex radio pouch that will go on the belt too), then spare BBs, gas, tactical snacks etc. in the backpack that can be quickly removed when needed. It's super easy to swap between my MWSs and m700s as all I need to do is swap out the chest rig insert, as the rifle mag pouches on the belt fit both, though the m700 mags are quite tight! So just waiting on the kydex radio pouch to complete this (baofeng w/ extended battery, cheapo milspec PTT and clone Invisio m3 earpiece is my comms setup), but considering the only guns I use nowadays are MWSs or m700s, I really like this setup as it's super easy to switch between them. It basically accommodates all the guns I use, even my Kar98k with its weird mags that I just put in the admin part of the chest rig. Testing it this weekend with my civvie setup (cheapo not-jeans and a flannel shirt) and the entire loadout fits in a single gun bag plus the backpack I'll be taking into the games themselves.

Nurse! Ted is having one of his moments again!

Selling at retail prices becuase shock horror he is a retailer.

As a buyer I always offer to cover the fee's if I make a lower offer, 9 times out of 10 it works, have never had anyone offer it in return but then I had someone send me the money for a pistol I sold recently via F&F which took my by surprise I must admit, I put it on a quicker postal service in return so we both benefitted from it. Fee's do get expensive above £200 so I can understand why sellers try to put it on the buyer but like you say, 10 seconds on Google gives you the fee total and can adjust price accordingly.

6 WE SCAR H V3 Mags, as i'm intending on running it as DMR, so the HPA avenue is just an unnecessary irritation. By the time they've landed in the UK, at worst case its going to be £45 a mag.

People who post or pm questions about your sales thread than you answer then they just vanish. Or even worse say they'll` take it then you never hear from them again. It just plain bad manners.

Highlight of my weekend game Was playing a fallback game, and was on the defending / retreating side I found myself a lovely little spot to hide in, and my intentions were to let the attacking team get past me and do them from behind All was going well until a sniper player literally crawled over me and used my rifle as a rest for his barrel to take a shot He shit himself when I knife killed him, then the whistle blew ?

Two of those mounts off Amazon, some ally bar and a bit of lathe work later..

2021 or before and it hasn't been used since. lol https://www.facebook.com/AirsoftForumsUK

CUSTOM GBB WORKSHOP Kanarr M79 grenade launcher TRW M79 grenade launcher pirate gun King Arms airsoft

Fixed again. Can I ask when there are problems can you update the Facebook page.

Wtf?

Vortex Crossfire HD 1400 Rangefinder. £200 on Uttings Yeah, it's somewhat pricey and goes to ranges far beyond what I need in airsoft, but that Vortex warranty is nice, and after using my friend's cheapo golf rangefinder I'm so glad I shelled out. The Vortex one is super clean and easily visible, but I had a lot of trouble actually seeing the readout on my friend's one.

Just picked up this bad boy for £280 we23-mini

Thank you for fixing the website @proffrink ? very much appreciated!

I played up at Gunman Airsoft's Tuddenham site on Sunday. I booked in advance so signing on had no hassle and getting chrono tested was very straightforward. Primaries were tagged with one colour cable tie and bolt-action snipers, DMRs and LMGs were given a different colour to point out they were MED-restricted and thus not allowed to be used in the village section of the site - a sidearm had to be used in that case. The game rules were a bit challenging even for more experienced players but it added some variety even if the heat was on the forefront of a lot of our minds so I've probably recalled one or two things incorrectly. In both games, we had a 3-hit rule before we had to return to respawn. The first 2 times we were hit, we had to go to a knee or sit and call for an unwounded player to patch us up in a 20-second count with both of their hands on our shoulder, taking them out of being able to shoot also. On your 3rd hit, you were KIA and had to return to respawn to start over. If after 2 minutes, you weren't rescued and patched up or you deemed it too risky to be helped, you could declare yourself KIA and return to respawn. You could crawl to a teammate but if you were hit again while crawling, you'd be KIA (regardless of it being your 2nd or 3rd hit) or if either you or your teammate had their hands on your shoulder to patch you up and either of you were hit you would both be KIA (regardless of it being your 2nd or 3rd hit or your teammate's 1st, 2nd or 3rd) and have to return to respawn. Due to the risk of grass and bush fires, pyro was limited to Mk 5s, EG Flashbangs and BFG/IGs and they could only be used inside buildings - anyone inside a given building number where pyro was thrown was KIA when it detonated The morning game was a 3-way contest between two street gangs (red vs green teams) versus police (blue team - mostly marshals). The street gangs had to collect a narcotics package and return it to their respawn point but only "mules" (dedicated players with an orange armband) could pick up and return the packages so it was beneficial to set a strategy using players as cover for the mule when retrieving the package. The returned packages would be converted to product for the afternoon game for the street gangs' objectives. The blue team had to prevent "arrest" gang members on either side and collect their blue tag and if they collected half as many tags as there were street gang players, they would win. They also had to hinder the collection of the packages. After the lunch break, we went back out and those running gas weapons were retested on the chrono. Anyone above the limit had to either power down their gun or wasn't allowed to field it. One bloke had to put aside his sidearm but he caused no fuss at all as he wasn't running a DMR or sniper rifle. In the afternoon game, the street gangs retreieved packages were converted to product, which needed to be deposited in a safety deposit box on a given area at the site per gang. Each drop could only be completed with product, premium product and cash, the latter 2 of which could be retrieved from across the site only by the mules so again, the street gangs had to strategise to make their drops while the police had to thwart their efforts and continue collecting tags with their arrests with the aim of getting at least half of them. When you score a hit on an opposing gang member you could either claim their product if you saw them carrying it or you could ask if they were carrying if you couldn't see it and they were obliged to disclose and surrender it but only if you asked. Of course, you had to tread carefully to steal their product as you risked being hit by their teammates. Despite the weather, gameplay was good with people calling hits, there were no arguments the marshals were aware of. There was some really good teamwork from all 3 sides to push forward, distract attention, offer cover for mules (gangs), provide supressive fire, etc. I was running a Double Eagle Noveske N4 MWS GBBR as my primary along with a WE Hi-Capa 4.3 as my sidearm.

Let me get some measurements off my VFC MP5 and i'll make you a pair of the ally pins.

No need to be jealous, it's a cheap Mac-10, it was a replacement for a two tone one I rattle canned & did a shit job of(it's hiding in my shed somewhere). Got a new gearbox and an ejection port cover for my M16A3 today, the Orion gear box was working fine but the join in the red wire prevented the motor sitting properly in the grip, I'm sure the rif was working before it was dismantled for posting but I'm damned if I could get the motor sitting properly. I'm no tech but it looks to me that this gearbox has been worked on, in fact I know it has as I can see through the spring access that teeth have been removed from the gear/s.

We recently had some forum issues that resulted in some down time All seems to be fixed now

well done, and thank you all!

Thanks for the effort involved in keeping this up I’m lost without it ?

When attempting to build your M14, ensure you have actually inserted the piston and not wait until you have it fully rebuilt to realise....D'oh!!

They havent fully adopted it yet. Not sure if they will

I have done it. Here in the land of cowboys and Indians, we have no rules, and no limits to our wankery Here’s Leo’s simple recipe for making the refs come over and stare whenever you test fire on the range… Traditional wisdom is that fast motors and fast gears are not friends. TRADITION LIED: Tienly makes the best brushed motors on the market, if not the cheapest, followed by Star Wei. Quality build and hand-wound armatures become increasingly important if you want your build to be functional in game without the motor grip turning into one of Gusteau’s Microwaveable Plasma Ultrabirritos. Oh yeah, and shredding your brushes while it’s at it. If built well, a 40K brushed motor can get you to 40RPS when paired with 13:1 gears and an 11.1v. Gears: any solid gear set will work for a while, as long as the bevel meshes well with your pinion of choice. To actually get high speed out of this thing without brute forcing it like some sort of wanker ape, we need to push up the efficiency numbers. To hit 40, you need 80% efficiency. 85% gets you to 43. And so on. SHS/rocket work alright. Siegetek are the best (but seemingly nonexistent in the UK). Solink have a good rep with folks that I trust, and are readily available, so I would go with those. Bearings. You can go bushings if you like with no issue, but real speed demons shell out for J-caged bearings, which can handle the increased stress of what we’re about to do to them. Be wary though, as many of these suckers are tall, and can interfere with selector activities. The “shortest” on the market are 2.5mm thick. Spring. To avoid PME, we need to punch that piston fast and forcefully. PDI makes the best, but Guarder comes in a close second. I would suggest buying at least equivalent of an M130 and M140. And to bleed off that extra spring power we… Shortstroke? No. Not before we have to. Short stroking damages both our tappet timing and our pressure spike, which I’ll discuss in a second, so we avoid it if we can. Instead we shorten our barrel. As any tech knows, all the spring strength in the world means nothing if it all blows out your o-rings and packing seal. This is the same for BB acceleration time. If there is no time to accelerate, it matters not what the ultimate velocity could have been. I would aim for 100-150mm and increase if you can. Cheap stock barrels from various manufacturers can be used to great effect in testing before any expensive parts are purchased. Did you know that most G&G ARP9s come with the equivalent of an M130 installed? Short barrel, fast cycle speed, strong spring. To make sure we can feed the frenzy we need a good stiff tappet and strong spring. This isn’t too complicated. Any stock or upgrade tappet that accomplishes the mechanical demand will do just fine. Guarder makes a good one. King arms does as well. Lube the rails and make sure it slides easily. O-ring drag is real. Double o-rings were invented to solve a design/manufacturing tolerance issue, not a design/airseal issue. Nothing wrong with it if it works for you… but Arcturus, Krytac, and I believe Guarder and Lonex make great single o-ring nozzles that may very well provide better fitment with your nozzle tube and less drag while you’re at it. Pick a strong, light piston with a POM head and ditch those bearings on the PH itself. They’re worthless. You need a total weight of about 15gs to be successful here. The easiest way is to use an SHS blue with the big holes and any decent POM head. Lonex, Gate, etc, etc. You can also remove material from any good quality one. Lonex Red FMRs and Arcturus poly pistons are prime for this. As long as the cylinder and cylinder head seal and don’t have any serious tolerance issues with your other parts, they’ll do just fine. You can easily polish stock brass cylinders to near mirrors of glassy perfection. But if you need to buy one… the Guarder Chromes are nice. As long as you have at least half the cylinder the porting doesn’t matter in the slightest for this. Don’t listen to Negative Airsoft, he does not understand the physics of ported cylinders; the port is not to let air into the cylinder, it’s to allow piston preacceleration. Which brings me back to why we don’t short stroke. When the piston accelerates before sealing with the cylinder, it creates a beautiful little pressure spike that effectively gives you a lot more oomph for less. Ask any HPA user if raising the pressure on their reg changes anything and you’ll understand. Less useful knowledge in this specific case, but great for general teching. Your shimming must be the shimming of Gilgamech and BBkidnu, the great shimmers of yore. We Americans look to George Shimmington. And to power this all, you need a good battery pack. Let’s face it, the vast majority of battery makers and sellers are liars. The packs aren’t IR matched, the capacity and discharge rating are blatant untruths, and the assembly quality is poor. Running your packs at above capacity KILLS YOUR PACKS. If you plug in a beefier battery and your gun gets faster, you’re doing this. You have two ways to combat this. #1 Overcompensate. Recognize the lies, and go so far above and beyond that even the lies place you easily in the green. Turnigy NanoTechs are good candidates. #2 Buy an actually good pack. Kypom are the best I know of. Gens Ace comes second. On the American Airsoft forums we happen to have a guy with a lot of mechanical engineering experience who can actually test cell IR ratings, true capacity, and discharge rates. He’s tested quite a few, and Kypom are consistently closest to advertised. Hopefully some of this is helpful to you! tech on -Leo

Still knackered for me too. Missing my fix TBH, looks like I picked the wrong week to stop drinking.

Am I just way out of touch with real steel prices or is £50 for the end cap of a torch the pisstake I think it is? https://airsoft-forums.uk/classifieds/item/66331-genuine-surefire-z68-tailcap-2-available-£50-each-£80-for-both/ £165 for a Spitfire also kinda on the high side ngl

Listing a 30 quid grip for £85.