Sitting Duck

Safety First - I ain't watched the vid yet but that is the last bit of Safe-Zone as you head out to the combat zone/tunnels I made a couple of returns to Safe Zone to respawn with mag still in my gun and the head Marshal was on the ball He could of shot my ar$e but eventually the penny started to drop..... It is an easy mistake for many people to make - you can enter the Safe-Zone 2 ways though usually depending on game area you normally enter from the path into the tunnels rather than from the outer tunnels perimeter but as it is darker than most sites and all so new & different - lame excuse I know but often respawning is done from Safe Zone rather than Dead Zone in combat zone - so guess I failed to get into habit of keep taking out mag & clearing gun (as I suck at this airsoft this is & died loads n loads maybe more reminding needed than the pro tunnel rats) I would keep eye-pro on at all times when returning to respawn - only remove for lunchtime when all guns are left safe inside One time there was a battle going on where the outer perimeter or other side of Safe Zone was used I needed to pop out outside to squeeze my lemon but made sure my mask was on when I started to make my way outside It is FULL-ON, so ensure YOU are taking YOUR safety very very seriously as I put my hands I could of f*cked up they gave me a stern warning for mag in but they ripped me a new one when I did a quick dry fire - deffo no mag in there but gun's trigger was starting to stick - still firing when trigger released - think tight contacts binding switch when trigger pulled really tight well I forgot and stated to pull trigger - true safe dry firing but the head marshal was a LOT LOT MORE STERN as he bollocked me (rightly so too - silly twat me looking back at it - the safe zone is that and nearly all sites state not even dry firing should be done) reality is a short tiny couple of shots of dry firing you often hear, though usually at my local if I test a gun on dry fire it is done at my car - so my interior or windscreen would be at risk if my gun wasn't fully clear above all we rely on all players and ourselves to always try to play safe and put this safety before anything else Epsom are far from perfect on chrono maybe but I will say the marshal's - head Marshal was deffo on the ball in Safe Zone (could of light me up - and think he was gonna when I dry fired but that was my very very last warning I felt so I deffo complied afterwards)

Opening your first few gearboxes is a piece of pi$$ IT IS CLOSING THE BASTID'S UP THAT IS THE PROBLEM !!!! Kudos to Samurai - one or two 10-15mm round "earth" or "neodym" magnets under box where AR latch goes that REALLY helps to keep the AR latch in place so you only need 3 hands - not 4 now don't work on trigger as that ain't magnetic but at least you got one less thing to jump out Now all that is left is spring, yup sounds easy, couple of "dry runs" without spring seeing how it best closes up usually cylinder head side lowering into position first etc..... Then the spring with a nice fitting screwdriver or something helping to pivot & hold spring guide downwards If cylinder has port then this aligned with piston runners to ensure piston stays put and not jump off the guides Oh there is loads of stuff you suss out and pick up tips & techniques of your own along the way too M100 or M105 springs are a breeze, m115/120 you can feel the extra resistance when inserting springs Best one was the DSG with a m150 or M160 mofo in it - f*ck me that was "fun" on ya own no really - about 3 times I "thought" I had finally done it up only to find something had just popped out at last final closing of box we are talking about 15 attempts - maybe more and was really close to giving up a couple of times hands now covered in grease - even though they was dry & clean, slipping eveywhere, trying to get some grip/leverage to compress spring but the trigger/spring wants to jump right out the moment you even fart or breathe near it f*ckety f*ckety f*ck f*ck f*ck Yeah - the whole dsg stuff is way way over rated imho - slight shortstroke m120 with a 13 or 14:1 gear set is much easier to build and that is the easy bit - it is all the checking and sanding/file and checking that it all fits and works properly that takes the time (imho depending on work involved and how meticulous you are a box should take most of weekend to strip, rebuild totally and assemble/test) yup you can do it very quick if just replacing one or two parts - but a full box and getting everything as good as you can get it will take more than a day - often you will need to step back - look for something or a break to de-stress or rethink any issues etc.... Some crap just don't wanna go in & work quite how you expect it - some boxes/gears just sound $hit no matter how well you shim & reshim Well that is my take on them - but finding me taking more care/time is producing much better results than my first few builds Oh and v3 - at least you test the damn box very quickly, seeing the bevel gear's position shifting as you adjust motor height getting it as quiet and schreech free as possible - heck you can even loosen the motor frame/cage and slightly pull it a smidge to get angle as close to perfection as possible V2's not quite as "test" friendly before you find out how crap that build sounds

Fair enough - but always thought it was one of the normal guidelines of ukara helps to prevent sales/deliveries to kiddies or un-ukara'd players sure you have to bang in your email & postcode of reg. addy on ukara self check well I was lead to think it has to go to your normal regged addy but maybe some sellers may not stick to that guideline to the letter (it is them that is selling it so its their decision I guess if they feel it is legit and above board) anybody want a RIF - £50 + cost of rifle sent to any addy of your choice - pm me for more details..... (not really - f*ck off kiddies)

it is just one of the rules that it has to bought by and sent to the same addy on the ukara database (hence it is important to update any change of address as/when you move later on) is just one of them rules/regulations stuff - commercial place of work some may accept as legit addy if they know you others might deem any addy as no chance sun-dance

uhm - just wondering though isn't the different addy kind of down to sender putting on the non-ukara addy unless Royal Mail are psychic or are stalking you to know where you work or did it have both addy's on parcel - that would be asking for confusion Still - no real biggy, the important thing is that an issue arose and then you was able to contact them - and they looked into it and got back to you its when things don't quite go according to plan - it is then you find out how good a company's customer service is glad it got sorted - nice mofo gun btw

When is the Christening ??

YES IF YOU CAN SOLDER Even just running 7.4v - if you got a neodym motor & lipo for the sake of contacts it should be done coz you will be pushing more juice through it if using existing wire - just make sure it is tidy where the tiny pin passes through box on "normal" V2's Dunno about the jumbo V2's layout - but on conventional V2's keep it tidy behind trigger switch or you might short some wires when you put it back together but yes all them little tweaks do add up to better response in the end - well in my book they seem to do A nice recent purchase was a 14mm CCW tap & die set - high quality engineering from a precision toolmaker (some backstreet pi$$ pot guy with a lathe in the slums of China no doubt via fleabay) Had a few cheap silencers that the threads were a little iffy on all off them - not anymore redid a couple and now they screw up all the way instead of getting stuck halfway down the outer barrel's thread very happy chappy ebay item # 160637665606 - brilliant mofo & ebay item # 160637665354 (not used this yet btw) oh and 2 out of 4 mofo motors arrived as well for smashing hell out of my next gearboxes plus some more dean connectors, stuff for spares box etc......

Welcome m8 and yes we all regret not getting into playing peew peew with toy guns sooner.... Sort of a bit COD-like except one shot kill And us older players quickly realise we ain't gonna mantle and dolphin dive through windows dropping to prone quite as easy as we first thought like them games Truth be told I just sweat buckets in mid winter thinking about rushing around. Keeps ya fit or knackered in my case Great fun whatever level you play at

I play for fun and leave my ego at home If other players/marshals did the same but kept common sense safety aspect then we wouldn't need to bitch so much Well yeah I'd still bitch but that is coz I'm miserable git

Really tough one tbh.... Pistols and bfg's - you can go for yonks without using 'em Others use them all the time.... Suppose you could say that about a backup AEG You might hardly ever need one if your luck holds On the other hand say get 2 x M4's Long n small / stubby for wood/cqb Or AK 47 & 74 if you prefer Best of both worlds having a big n small gun That take same mags m $hit Plus have the option to switch to what suits the game or site you are playing at the time

plus on here we are beholden to no single store so we can freely say buy this from there this is a good shop - don't buy that from z1 get if from ak2m4 or lwa or Gunfire etc....... (without having our bottoms slapped - yes please beat me hard ya bitch) only downside to this place - ME

Majority ain't that bad in airsoft The few that are ego tripping ar$eholes I tend to think they are converted paintball marshals

cheapo FAST type helmet rather than a pith m88 helmet you don't absolutely NEED one until you bash/scrape ya noggin then you NEEDED one !!!! yes you can get by with something like a baseball cap/beanie but believe it or not a mediocre helmet and some cheapo knee pads does help avoid a few bashsed nuts n knees (especially if scrambling about in woodland or smashing your head on a door frame in cqb) edit - bashed nuts = head btw, for the other type you need a groin box and a little "chat" with your opponent if they keep shooting your own personal bb's cheapo snidey FAST type about £30 fleabay UK selleror about £20 upwards from EU or overseas and wait a while do tend to give you that "pro" image but only if you got some other attire as well mind you for cqb at places like the Mall I don't think anything beats a guy in suit dark shades/goggles and packing 2 x pistols (either he's extreme bad-ass or just doesn't give a toss about pain when you look that feckin' hard)

I'm at work atm so I suggest watch if not sure how to separate the two bits of receiver Doesn't invalidate any warranty coz you ain't opening gearbox or motor, besides if you get a really bad jam or change barrel hop bucking you gotta do this anyway. Look at a video to double check if not sure Separate 2 halves and you will see the piston in port window and understand a lot more what I'm trying to say in my duc-ollox language It is hard to see a black nozzle in a grey hop whilst peering down into magwell even when you understand it a bit. Red SHS nozzle is easier to see at first glance than the stock black nozzle. So consider separating the receivers

be nice if it was quick change spring but alas not on most G&G's (think that is another one of their new ideas to implement on newer models coming out soon) most first time openers spring change/box opening doesn't always go to plan (mine deffo didn't I will honestly admit - well a few boxes didn't that is for sure) The spring will be fine soonish - just might need a tiny bit of help either precock or a few bits of tape to push hop away weird thing is though you may get 349.999 at chrono in morning fire a few hundred shots/bursts or dry fire through it and due to dunno a bit of friction/heat maybe the cylinder may warm a little and expand a smidge of a smidge - I have found just recently and after a blast on bb hosing - the fps is bit less at chrono after this spraying I ain't studied this crap very much - believe it or not I ain't that sad but after a while I guess the cylinder may cool a little and higher fps/seal may return to its higher figure

This forum doesn't have the bandwidth for me to even start listing all my mistakes that I'm STILL making BUT the main mistake I think was why the hell didn't I get into this much much sooner ? (say 5+ years ago and I might not be quite so crap at it - well that is just a theory but I'd still be $hite no doubt)

I was going by the normal way the gearbox cycles after a shot is fired and the piston releases on semi the motor runs on a smidge even when cut off engages and usually starts to just pull nozzle back a little often sector has just started to get near engaging piston and cam starts to retract tappet - so nozzle is starting to part away from hop I looked at sector's cam for tappet and on a full stock untrimmed tappet plate the nozzle stays fully back as the piston compresses at about halfway on sector gear the cam starts to release tappet plate so nozzle now starts to shoot forward to load bb & seal against hop (ready for piston releasing very soon after) The easiest thing is to remove magazine and pop the front gearbox pin then you may see the cylinder port window in the gearbox (if not and stock guns being what they are - not so brilliant seals - rotate cylinder until its port is visable) Now what you want to do is inch the gun until the the o-ring on piston passes the rear of cylinder window which should be aprox 66% to say 75% on the cm18's porting for its 275mm barrel you will then be able to see through the single hole or port in the cylinder where the bastid piston is rather than try and "guess" its position by nozzle and gauge if spring is being compressed which is not as easy as it may sound even if you fully understand how the gearbox itself cycles the front pin on G&G's just pops back but not out - it is just designed to stay in there by a spring retainer on pin once popped the top receiver will slide fowards from main lower receiver you may notice it might catch slightly on very top of gearbox case but you can just slightly lift upwards at that point to clear just do it a little slowly and it just comes away real easy on G&G's look up on google/youtube - not coz it is that tricky or hard but often like my first description it can be difficult to understand anybody let alone all the crap I type on a regular day to day basis as long as you can see the port/window on the blue cylinder in gearbox it will be a LOT easier to understand and precock the spring or failing that spring compression thingy - you will see where to place a few bits of tape at front of gearbox to reduce the good seal and in effect lose a tiny bit of seal to bring down fps with a slightly less than perfect seal to bucking/hop hopefully some of this makes sense but soz in advance if you are not fluent in talking duck - even I don't understand most of my crap pop the top receiver and you know for sure where piston/spring is at is the best easiest way

alas majority of stuff is just knocked out to keep costs down to remain competitive... even if fet's fail - the donkey work of wiring in has been done already to replace fet with better bells n whistles one if needed The other thing I'd like to see is like a slightly better build in most guns Can't be THAT hard, to correct AoE, better head & nozzle ffs so gun performs and functions that bit better Not talking about a mega time consuming custom bespoke build where hours are taken to check/assemble But surely - stop calling me Shirley Surely - they could add in a o-ring nozzle, better piston o-ring & better head with AoE nearly done or corrected a bit better than stock just using a few better parts probably only a few dollars each part would save the owner having to get it done at some point yes a little more cost - but a better performing gun would sell itself even if it cost say $10 to $15 more until then they will just be knocking out the same old same old stuff that may need finishing off a little Echo1 & Krytac might be using a little more care - but wtf don't the main companies do this anyway ?

not sure but they do partly strip the rails/gun etc to give it a coating but they know their G&G stuff so though it don't get sprayed in situ reckon it won't take too long before its shipped - if they already got a gun sprayed already (not many retailers would do this spraying a RIF to IFwithout order first but on stuff like Raider or popular models they "might" paint a few at a time)

cheers for confirming that sir - still a lovely receiver as I said earlier saw 1 left in stock last week at LWA but only just about managed to silence the buy me buy me screams in my head the receiver and the stock is what I like the most - the ambi mag & charging handle is not a biggy but the design of receiver is gorgeous etc.... very nice gun - time will tell if super duper new trigger switch module is a good robust idea mechanically wise but only just talked myself out of it - a very very close battle going on in my head sexy gun - slightly jealous but very pleased for ya - reckon we will see a few people going for this 3rnd fetted sexy CM good ol' G&G parts pdf.... http://guay2.com/web/drawings/cm/CM16_SRS_explode.pdf coz was looking to see if the stock is gonna be called the GOS-V3 or something but not found the exact type/model yet (might see how much - probably silly money but hey ho)

think it is a new polymer receiver but with metal keymod rail pretty sure it is a plastic/polymer receiver or it really is f*cking good value if them new CM receivers are metal the extra dosh over a £130-£150 normal polymer receiver CM is for the 3rnd fet and keymod rail much like the bot 300 - just a single shot fet using old style polymer CM receiver Stock is a crane variant of the GOS-V2 or something and should of been fitted to FireHawk amongst others the burst mode can toggle to semi 1 shot or 3 rnd burst by holding trigger for 10 seconds in semi selector mode if its full metal think I gotta make up an excuse to missus to try and increase my G&G collection once more but really trying to ease up a bit now youtube link but bloke talks like a nob btw: me on the other hand I am a nob as well as talking like one

What "can" sometimes happen is that you store the gun with it pre-cocked by accident over time the spring will lose tension a considerable bit and can drop to under 300 if left like this for a while 2 things to do on finishing for day when you return home to store gun (or just leave it in bag - store gun is a term loosely used but mine are always wrapped in silk blankets) anyway - empty mags as if stored with spring wound hi caps or mid-caps they can lose tension and efficiency often with hi-caps you gradually find you no longer get 20-30 or so shots on a full winding and this drops the crappy half a dozen also fire gun on semi twice they say to help ensure gun/spring/gears are parked correctly with min tension what you are trying to do is leave it pre-cocked/wound for a little while to deliberately lose a smidge of tension and no you wouldn't lose much if any real tension by a game or two the cm.515 was still 348/349 and I did just adjust a smidge more hop to get her under (ain't gonna clean barrel just yet either or I could be back over the limit, and forget a tbb in there for a while) Lipo battery I'd leave it partly charged and charge it night before game but don't listen to me too much about lipo's note this was dodgy looking lipo - crapped myself as it sparked hissed dropping it in hallway then bursting into flames kicked it out the front door friday night but scorched the carpet - missus not happy but on flip side now got the go ahead to buy a ton of new lipo's but take it from me - if they look a bit dodgy or more just a little puffy replace them this was a cheapo brand x one and not a proper decent make like Zippy, Turnigy, Vapex, WE etc.... f*ck me all smoke alarms going off and stink - maybe make a claim on insurance or she will get new hall carpet could of been a LOT LOT worse - so yeah a little care IS needed in handling/storing/charging lipo's (another lesson learnt - but this was a moody battery btw so don't all rush out and build asbestos charging rooms - just common sense)

not 100% certain but sure you can toggle 3 or 1 shot mode I know it must be very anti-geezer-ish but maybe it might be worth a look in the man, manu, - damn it is so hard to say it M A N U A L - manual - done it, woohoo that is always a tricky one to say let alone look at & use and yeah - the new receivers and the new craney stock looks damn nice

nice stock on them and the revised polymer receivers look nice - no big white CM got their own special unique electronic trigger switch unit & fet is that the 3 round burst mosfet in there on the new SRL models very nice looking gun (I'm sure their fet's and the new trigger switch is gonna be ok)