Sitting Duck

on Airsoft GI you can pre-pay the duty at checkout trouble is that $225 gun will come near $275 with aprox $50 shipping + import duty (could get close to $350 - at least $325 all inc I reckon) You could probably get a tweaked up JG 608 with a program fet for that money tbh but won't have trademarks or blowback - so kinda see where ya extra money goes on licensed Umarex stuff I placed an order on Evike once but cancelled coz took too long to prepare/ship order I paid for got my full refund but just found they couldn't get their act together quickly on my order 10months ago

Nerf or nothing

tweak ya dmr a bit then pick up a either a cheapy CM short Raider, AK74, G36c etc for cqb if you like to test that water later on don't have to be laser $hit hot accurate or mega ultra rapid fire as real close is semi only anyway Then go down to Epsom Tunnels and $hit yaself in the dark (some hot guns f*ckin' hurt though) or The Mall in Reading many on here love that place

Yeah that is the line many of us ask ourselves poor sod - your hooked & bye bye wallet glad you had a great time

Go back to old barrel & stock hop unit on the shorter 220-ish barrel coz barrel length can REALLY alter crap I just discovered..... just got through testing about a dozen springs and interesting results..... Also I noticed no real difference which way round the springs went either ??? which is a bit unexpected You are supposed to fit spring with tightest coils at spring guide end to allow easier starting on irregular springs and it is supposed to make a difference or lower fps if it goes back to front (tight coils at piston) - NOPE For the record these springs were tested on a APS UAR that is supposed to have a full stroke 410-ish stock barrel Some were std regular or linear or same crap coil spacing & others were irregular springs but no difference seen on either ??? (also worth noting the m100 fitted to UAR from TWG was hitting a bit over too 348 - 355 so a bit over its official 328 rating) Also tested the old cm515 spring which was 400-405fps on 380mm barrel and it gave 405-410fps so kinda about right on 407mm Also the Element M105 used to give me 350fps on a CM18 with a 275mm barrel with AoE done but stock spring guide (probably hit 365fps with spring guide is my gut feeling) But 1 - maybe 2 of these (found another in a bag of old springs that looked same) was hitting 390 to nearly 400fps on UAR if I fitted spring guide to CM18 and expected 365 - that is still a 25 to 35fps increase on the longer barrel in UAR Going by a list of figures n crap from these springs tested it does seem to indicate there is joule creep as barrel gets longer (Well don't know if it is exact same joule creep as some gas guns get lifting heavier 0.25's bb's at similar or close fps to 0.20's) But fps does seem to rise the longer the barrel gets showing an increase in Kinetic energy - lol God I love that word and had to squeeze it in somehow coz you always see that kinetic energy crap being used in spring/fps posts etc.... What is odd that my gun was able to stay below 350 previously but piston seal might not have been 101% perfect plus I did recently change bucking as it showed a slight nick looking where the lips where - so this may explain some stuff (same spring, different pistons but still short stroked 2 teeth - rof has dropped a smidge but now using all bushings & bit heavier piston weight) Anyway....... Springs tested - most I haven't got a bloody clue wtf their ratings are/where: 440 fps - same both ways 432 fps - same both ways 425 fps - same both ways * my gut feeling these 3 could be m120's hitting say 30fps more on longer barrel * 410 fps - cm515 spring so sounds about same/similar fps in UAR (same both ways) - might be a m115 ???? 390 - 395 - Element M105 - irregular spring but same both ways ??? 385 - 390 - Element M105 - maybe - well looks very similar and probably chucked in spring bag coz unsure if 105 or 115 spring * could be rated a m105 but might be a smidge over / worn m110 * 380 - 385 - same both ways 380 fps - same both ways * these could be used m105 or over rated m100 ??? * (one of these came out of a used broken G36c I'm lead to think) 340 - 345 - same both ways - Hmmmm, this could be a m95 or so spring and could come in handy later........ 325 - 330 - this could be a m90 or m95 slightly worn spring...... The last 2 springs are quite possible lower springs than m100's if the Element M105 is anything to go by These might show a small minor increase if installed say in an AK47 with 455/469mm barrel ???? So these might save me a major headache when I downgrade my cm28a AK's perhaps (would be good to get somebody like Ian's experience on this though) Think Sp00n had an L85 & R85 thingy majig and had to drop in a m90 or m95 spring in there (stock barrel length of 510mm me thinks) as he was too hot to use .25's at around 310fps (aprox 350 on 0.20's - ah to hell with it - KINETIC ENERGY Phew...... Now I still gotta rip my box apart - pull spring out, and test this mofo that hit 385/390 even though it is short stroked 2 teeth and then when tested in UAR try and get something 30-35 less perhaps, I'll try 30 is my gut feeling atm..... Getting back to your own problem it seems that the 50 fps increase is half tbb & maybe half barrel length increase Though you say you tried the old barrel I think - so the mystery deepens if you put back all the stock stuff though the flat hop has probably pushed it up a smidge but jeez...... I'm really sorry I do not have a perfect solution other than complete stock barrel & hop, clean barrel and wait for a bit of fps drop before doing any further tweaks - not what you wanted to hear but just a little alteration can make a big difference I have just found out and can increase fps but so much it places us over site limits Damn Kinetic Energy bollox But atm my hunch, and that is all it is btw seems to show that there "might" be a 20-30fps increase when you extend barrel lengths by 100mm This could equate to say about 8 to 10% increase in fps per 100mm but tbh this crap & my findings has proven only one thing Trying to work out rough expected fps is a major guessing game as so many factors can alter $hit Think I'll cancel my degree in airsoft mathematics for now coz as soon as I find something that works another curve ball gets thrown at me and knocks me on my ar$e that I feel like an England Rugby player atm edit/update thought or conclussion based on f*ck actual knowledge but here we go..... G&P gun has 215mm barrel so to ensure it has a bit of oomph they bung in a m105 or maybe m110 to compensate for fps lost You fit in 300mm which bumps it up to normal fps level of 350-360 but coz tbb it goes up a further 15-20fps this might explain where the hell that extra 50fps came from this is all duck speculation and end of day it don't change $hit that its running hot but might shed some light or idea wtf all these weird figures are coming from maybe I'm off to get some Nurofen coz I got a major headache and my own crap to sort out still

Why do you want to drop fps for DMR ??? thought most places have AEG DMR's at 425-450 & bolt snipers at 450 - 500 absolute max normal aeg's run at about 350 but ya SR25 is hardly a easy to wield gun for cqb/taking buildings etc..... some places might allow a bit over 350 for aeg's but a DMR @ 350-400 is a little low

Yeah but I'm still boned with mine - put ported cylinder back in - dropped at last 390 to 385 How the heck that was under 350 with that setup, but gotta be a 101% perfection seal now (this has been a bollock-ache, bearings broke the piston snapped off - yes AoE was done) new full metal piston swiss cheeses SS 2 teeth as before..... erhh ummm but went with new lighter poly piston head due to heavier metal rack piston... 407mm tbb - full or old ported cylinder - went with full cylinder somehow gain 40fps - the piston seal is only thing I mainly can put it down to Now got my APS UAR out and testing various springs out first before I open her up yet again brand new Element m105 produced 398fps - wtf ??? SHS M125 430fps (yeah didn't think they did the " 5 " increments) but the m125 is kinda right but the Element M105 at nearly 400fps :blink: :blink: No wonder crap ain't adding up - think springs must be female coz I just don't understand them like I thought I did especially in longer barrels (407tbb gun is similar to APS UAR tester I'm using) I know like the MK23 gas pistol had a barrel extension which pushed it over 350 to say 400 but thought stuff like joule creep was mainly on gas/co2 stuff coz never seen weird $hit like this before Soz gate crashing thread again thinking of doing something easier than aeg's - like a double sided bake bean jigsaw puzzle in the dark

Got some Elite Force 0.20's from LWA to use up - slightly off white and visable seems not impressed and won't be buying them again tbh can't be ar$ed to list my crap but what are the odds of getting a dual suppressor with 2 x CW threads instead of CCW &CW - f*cking useless twats assembling this high quality pile of junk oh - & welcome to the age of lipo sir

UK Mail / Parcel Pete is a decent courier but I'm sure in their small print is some crap about gas/guns yup here: http://www.ipostparcels.com/parcel-delivery/uk-prohibited-items the guys are correct - short of delivering it yourself in person there is always a risk of it being in their prohibited list of crap

if you fitted the flat hop - did you use different bucking or trimmed/turned the stock bucking if trimmed off the bucking inside your std nub may not work correctly ??

Got a similar headache too SS 2 teeth, ergh & uhm about ported/full cylinder thought wtf shortstroke 2 teeth it will be fine to lift heavier .25 or .28's went with a full cylinder as it was SS 2 anyway using a 407mm tbb.... bad idea - 390fps using tbb 407 prommy flat hop 355-360 on short stock 300mm barrel crappy old dirty G&G 357mm & G&G plastic hop gives 344fps but shoots like crap (if I clean barrel or change out hop I know I'm gonna be over) really don't wanna rip her open - again but I know I gotta full cylinder and outstanding piston seal has screwed me over stock spring was easy to fit in so don't think it is a true 115/120 spring (even left it 95% cocked overnight but hardly any drop this morning) poxy f*cking toy guns sorry moaning and derail your thread but I feel ya pain n wtf frustration

Oh soz thought the tbb was fitted to an old gun and new bucking to replace old bucking on old stock barrel etc..... Wow that is a mofo jump, was ya stock barrel dirty or something ? 50fps is a mofo jump just from tbb barrel according to LWA spec stock is about 215mm vs 300mm but a 50fps is a big jump all the same

ahhhh - bummer on that spring tester gun idea....... try an o-ring on there first tbh 50 is a big jump - normally 15-20 is a tbb increase I'm lead to believe I'm guessing you probably fitted a new hop bucking so either the old bucking was a bit worn or maybe not seated/sealing properly M100's vary lots - often a bit extra & 350 is obtainable with decent seals (could have a m105 in there perhaps to allow for so-so stock seals) now with good bucking seal & tbb you are up to 380 try an o-ring if you can but otherwise you may have to go back to old barrel (clean/polish it and you probably get close to 350fps)

ok - how about this...... get a 9mm x 7mm (1mm thick) o-ring place this around the hop at the gearbox end (hop outer diameter is about 10-11mm so stretch o-ring onto hop/nozzle entry) this will push the hop a minor minor smidge forward so you lose a whisper of seal though to be honest I don't think you will lose 30fps but maybe somewhere near that The important thing is make sure she feeds - which she should do, (its when you push hop back to gearbox more the nozzle may not fully clear) see if she feeds and fps drops a little if all else fails - remove o-ring and she should be back to 380fps if you get her down to 355 then pre-cock spring etc...... try to get a thin o-ring as possible - maybe an o-ring used to steady inner barrel you don't want a mega thick one or mags may not clip in ok or fps drops to 150fps if nozzle/bucking seal is pi$$ poor worth a shot before you rip her open or power up ya tools you can also place some tape around front of box to do the same thing but if you got a thin o-ring like sometimes found on tbb - use that as its easier Problem with trimming up barrel is you don't know how much you gotta cut it and you could end up with a very very short barrel as little air is being lost on tbb long or short (you could end up with a 229 or less barrel and may not be ideal for gun you was hoping it was gonna be)

Use your APS UAR's quick change box to test out a milder spring's fps get lowest one you can find around..... open hot box up, test spring in UAR & compare with possible lower spring then refit best spring back into box other options: AoE corrected - that may lose 10fps perhaps replace bearing spring guide with std spring guide - maybe 15fps lose bearing on piston head ??? the above 3 are questions or examples but tbh aoe is a wise idea could chop off couple of coils from a spring could short stroke it a couple of teeth need to get her down to about 355 or less if a smidge over leave it pre-cocked overnight main thing if barrel is decent & hop is working & feeding well then leave it as is then go to spring/gearbox problem

That is quite a jump, but if you cut it you could balls it up

only if you are dumb ar$e to think..... ooh that looks a little puffy (was an old brand X lipo btw not a pukka zippy/turnigy) I'll let a bit of air out of that plastic wrapping with this pin........... FIZZZZ FIZZZZZ SPARK SPARK FIZZLE FIZZLE SPARK SPARK...... WTF !!!!! - drops it in the hall....... WOOOOOOOOOOFFFFFFFFFF - FLAMES N $HIT OPEN THE DOOR - OPEN THE F*CKING DOOOORRRRRRR !!!!!! BOOOT - phew it went out perfectly, could of clipped the frame and rebounded into front room Yeah - as far as dumb ar$e things I've done this year or two - that has gotta be in top 3 Decent brands, a little puffy is ok but don't think of maybe letting air out I own up to being a massive bell-end - more than usual as a stark warning of the dangers of being a dick with lipo's or really any battery they are safe - as long as you don't attempt to try voodoo on them Honest, they are fine as long as you don't f*ck about with them (stupidly funny now but absolutely $hit myself, missus screaming, smoke alarm going nutz, scorched carpet - yeah not one of best ideas) THIS IS A BIG BANG VIDEO - like they said they never seen one go like that mine fizzed and sparked for about 5-10 secs then a modest fire about 12 to 18 inches high but this is what I mean don't be a dick with lipo's:

Oooooh just noticed something interesting............... these B6 chargers genuine and fake ones plus Turnigy chargers seem to come with XT60 charge leads (bananna plug from B6 to XT60 plug) so you WILL need that adapter thingy majig: http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__43762__MEGA_ADAPTER_Connect_almost_anything_to_anything_US_Warehouse_.html coz it won't have the male deans charge lead but a XT60 type my snidey clone one came with a male deans charge lead plus female deans to others adapter leads (the clones voltage is not always as accurate as a genuine B6 btw but on one of mine if was 0.015v lower - I can live with that) weird that I got all deans leads etc.. but others gen/fake may ship with XT leads well I guess it is RC shop and XT connectors are quite popular for RC's but never thought of this until I was looking at leads n stuff supplied on the AC versions soz best double/triple check on the EXACT leads you get in the box - maybe get the charge anything lead set ignore my specs of what leads came with mine as I bought it from fleabay along with some universal laptop chargers (does the job cheaply but then that is me all over)

oh right - well did say about psu needed but they do one with a built in psu - B6 AC mofo..... http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__53900__IMAX_B6_AC_Charger_Discharger_1_6_Cells_GENUINE_AU_plug_.html?strSearch=b6%20ac http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__58285__IMAX_B6AC_V2_Professional_Balance_Charger_Discharger.html just a transformer plopped inside the bigger case more money but I guess if the transformer craps out you can still use a seperate psu like the normal B6 heck even I guess a car cigarette lighter 12v power lead to charge batteries whilst driving to game

eh ??? http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__36905__IMAX_B6_50W_5A_Charger_Discharger_1_6_Cells_GENUINE_US_Warehouse_.html top right window of main pic shows a bunch of wires n bits n bobs....... croc leads - so should have the psu connector if needed watch video and box has a flap with bits bobs leads in there I'm 99.999% sure (they show you difference in clone vs genuine ones etc...) as for getting a deans - small tamiya adapter, yup should be able to get one off the shelf (should be a female deans to uhmm ergh - damn not used tamiya for a while so not gonna say for deffo which adapter is required) maybe this would charge most batteries if you aren't confident in knocking something up yourself: http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__43762__MEGA_ADAPTER_Connect_almost_anything_to_anything_US_Warehouse_.html so the B6 should then charge almost anything with tamiya xt60 deans etc.... and it charges lipo's, LiFe's & old skool nimah's etc..... (read manual/youtube guides for selecting correct battery type etc) mofo charger at a good decent price - numerous others paid more money and got clone B6's instead (I paid £10 for my clones but thought gen B6's were like nearly £30 or more, would of got gen B6's if I'd known better) Actually it still ain't as bad as me buying a smart nimah charger & 2 x 8.4v 1600mah old skool batteries when I first started at about £16:99 a pop x 3 plus shipping - over £50 gone :blink: :blink:

You can knock up an adapter quite easily as you said The B6 comes with a few leads - or my clone B6 did.... You get a bannana connectors to male deans lead that does the charging to deans battery and the lipo's balance lead goes into the same side of B6 (right side) On the other side (right) you got what I think is a 2.5mm / 5.5mm socket for psu..... (centre of psu jack is positive polarity btw - but like most electronic stuff if unsure get a nerdy tech to check polarity first) On mine I got a 2.5/5.5 lead with crocodile connector leads that can be used/spliced for a psu input (if say a 12v to 18v psu's connector isn't correct one) Plus I got a few other leads with female deans connectors on them to plug on the male charging lead These can be spliced and used for tamiya adapter or just ripped off and fitted to a couple of lipo batteries if needed These should be supplied - or failing that a lead can be bought or knocked very easily Any splicing/adapters should be done properly or well insulated with little connecting blocks blah blah blah Not rocket science - just easy basic common sense like most stuff (says the guy who sets out to puncture lipo's and wonders why his hall is on fire - seriously don't be that stupid) If unsure get a geeky m8 to help check it all over - better safe than sorry B6 charges them lipo's through the deans connectors and even at a modest 1A charge it charges much quicker than the basic cheaper chargers that charge through just the thin balance connector (kinda understandable when you compare the difference in wire thickness for charging)

You don't need to rewire the gun - just cut off tamiya & fit deans on the present wiring...... (if at any point you rewire later on - you can desolder the gun's connector & fit to 16awg rewiring) Male connector on gun, positive is the "top" of T (some connectors do have a " + " marked on them) Female on battery - see Google & YouTube for more info/clarification yup you could fit any end you wish but may as well follow the standard wiring spec on the connectors (in case you get a new battery pre-wired with deans already) I'm no soldering mofo guru, done bits n bobs & repairs on consoles/toys/electronics in the past I'm ok but deffo not what I'd call great when I've seen some people who do rework & stuff decent solder and maybe flux really helps - cheap $hit solder from Poundland/Dollar Tree is not ideal

ahem - deans is best if you can solder Solder in kitchen where it should be more solder or grilled cripy bacon sandwich friendly ??? loads of guides on you tube - BUT ONE WIRE AT A TIME !!!! cut both and you will see what a punch them lipo's can privide - BANG !!!!! cut 1 wire (fit shrink wrap) solder - when done and insulated move onto second one At a push if mini vice/helping hands ain't available...... push both connectors together, tape to worktop to keep deans steady etc... scratch the connector a bit to key it up, if possible use some flux but decent solder I reckon deans offer a 10% increase over small tamiya (when rewired fully and fetted this goes up to about 15% I have found) to use lipo's on small tamiya is kinda like driving along motorway/freeway in 4th gear instead of 5th yeah you can stay in 4th but wiser to move up a gear if possible 7.4v 20c to 25c on stock guns 11.1v is gonna push a stock gun a bit boring maths bit coming up....... stock gun firing at say 13 or 14ish on small tamiya - ok say 13.5rps on 7.4v deans it and you could get another round or nearly 15rps on 7.4v now chuck in 11.1v and that is another 3.7v cell so a 50% increase = 22 or 22.5rps quite an increase but long term you may get...... carbon build up on trigger piston failure from pick up tooth pulling off (most stock pistons are plastic with 1 to 3 metal teeth) little bit more wear but should be ok - though bearings might start to fail quicker than bushings Now you could say wtf - and go for 11.1v and look to rebuild stuff as n when However - this 15 or 22.5rps is a ROUGH GUIDE on stock ferrite motors pushing 13-ish out of box you could have a neodym motor that gives a bit more kick in that vfc Rule of thumb see what it fires like on 7.4v first then add on 50% if thinking of 11.1v but for us lot in UK with a 350fps limit 25rps onwards with a m100/105 and guns may start to overrun or double cycle - fire 2 shots sometimes on semi Not that are near that but 30rps & risk of Pre Engagement may start appearing BUT - being USA your gun may have a m110 or m120 spring in there so some of the above stats and warnings may not apply just yet Though 11.1v is really gonna need some tweaks like mosfet AoE etc in the long term of things Phew

DEANS !!!!!!