Sitting Duck

I really have to ask this again.... What is your actual rof with 13:1 using 11.1v and a Lonex A1 ??? Coz that should be putting you at 35 -40rps And on a m100 or m105 spring I would expect it to PE already ??? Using 7.4v should get you near 30rps unless A1 is more torque than torque+speed. Well I got 29ish on 13:1 7.4v SS 2 teeth on a m120ish spring But smashed a couple of pistons on 18 or 16:1 pushing 11.1v on a m100/105 spring from PE at 32rps full stroke Anyway the other option is a DSG setup on say a 250mm barrel, but is fun trying to cram in a m160 spring Also when going nutz another thing that may need to be done is cutting a couple of coils off tappet spring so it loads bb's much quicker at higher speeds Just remember more wear, more ammo, more juice drained from battery etc..... Me 30rps is well fast enough, even around 25 is plenty if its performing well. Short stroking isn't really to increase rof it is there to prevent PE from faster n faster speeds by returning piston quicker with a slightly higher spring. Thus ensuring piston returns in time before sector knocks its teeth out

Suggest you use a higher spring Eg m110 to m120ish Use 7.4v first ffs and get your higher fps This depends on barrel length tbb bearing spring guide spacer etc.. Say you get 390fps to 400fps Now multiply that by 0.94 or take off 6% for each tooth Say 395fps x0.94 = 371for 1 tooth Now again 371 x 0.94 = 349 for 2 teeth removal So 2 teeth removal required Take 2 teeth of back of piston (Must have 3 steel teeth to leave 1 last steel) But to be honest going 30+ on 7.4v use a full metal rack if you short stroke properly to avoid PE (Plastic/Steel still can strip at higher speeds of 35+ over time) You take off the last 2 metal teeth (Actually you don't HAVE to remove them but saves weight) But on Sector you remove the FIRST 2 teeth Do NOT remove the last 2 it fucks the tappet timing (I made that mistake following a wanky guide) The very first 2 teeth that engages piston gets removed That should now short stroke to get you down to 350 And piston is returning faster on a shorter stroke And should be fine for running 11.1v at 40-45rps Good luck with mags n feeding and your shimming must be 101% bang on coz your box will crap out quicker Normally I just SS on a hot gun and know she won't double fire at 30rps on 7.4v The TM high cycle guns are short stroked I'm lead to believe and AirLabs recommend short stroking for higher tweaked guns A bit of work but think it's worth it imho if you like high rof and response Stating obvious here but you can't really short stroke a longer 455/469 ak coz you need Max or nigh on Max stroke for the vol ratio malarky (Maybe 1 tooth on a 455 perhaps)

Think after a new member registers then redirect them to the FAQ bit/Ian's guide or something ffs http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/12854-new-player-guides-info/ I like to chat/type but to keep typing same ol same ol crap is wearing my keyboard/fingers out plus on an off day I may not be as friendly as others (soz for grumpy replies on them off days)

just my own 2 cent opinion get ukara buy cm18 G&G RIF forget the blowback - overated and more crap to go wrong

it is the weight or mass of the bb/projectile normally min 0.20's are used - often 0.25's or heavier maybe by some the lighter 0.12's don't always get felt under layers of protection/clothes very easily also lighter bb's tend to be fly off course over distance so for wimpy players playing close up 0.12's are ok this where the " BB " sites specialise in crappy lower quality/price plinkers which is fine for that Problem is that they tend to make the younger or newcomer believe these plinkers will be ok out on a skirmish site They won't - 99% of them will put you at a disadvantage, some more than others your £10 pistol has to be cocked everytime to fire, might only shoot say 240fps on 0.2's - maybe less coz often figures are max fps quoted even on cqb sites that might be single shot at close range guns can still shoot say 7+ shots per second on semi with a decent trigger finger/gun so you may scape 2 shots per second if lucky in a fire fight but people do have a go especially if they like a challenge or wish to humiliate them using a crappy jbbg just don't go nutz or get too stressed if ya get owned by a more proper gun/toy gun This is supposed to be short thread so I'll just say 0.12's hurt the least if that stings too much - then best wait a few years or man up a bit

270fps is probably with lighter 0.12's a bit mickey mouse but for safety reasons you should be 18 AND ALWAYS WEAR DECENT EYE PROTECTION !!!! I mean it - don't take chances even messing about back garden plinking !!! seriously - you can still lose a f*cking eye even messing about - a lot more dangerous than messing with Nerf stuff the weight or mass of the bb 0.12 0.20 0.25 etc... determines the "ouch" factor at xxx fps 0.12's @270fps is less ouch than a .25@270fps But honestly - ensure that a 18+ purchases it and above all else don't be a dick with it don't take chances good eyepro is a must !!!!! - even if you skirmish in the buff -wear eyepro (even with less powerful air guns/toys) play safe - please ouch factor - depends where you get shot - getting shot in the back with little meat/fat stings more than in the chest/ar$e close up hurts more than a distance coz bb loses energy/speed/fps blah blah blah get a full face mask - saves eye and teeth/good looks (too late for ugly me) baggy clothes help absorb the ouch/sting - just play safe on ya eyes/face PS - liked Ian's pic not coz I'm a sicko but a very vivid reminder for us all to take safety seriously (yeah I have a weird sense of humour but holy f*ck/ouch)

SOZ - MODS PLEASE DELETE THIS COZ IT MIGHT MUST OFFEND... for TriggerHappy: Sorry was trawling for guns n girls pics & this frightening pic turned up Now seriously considering giving up airsoft now - I've been scarred for life Soz, no more pics and sorry for derailing yet another thread

Boys and their toys crap.... Toy guns are similar to the cars we drive or floats your boat You could go out and buy either a Ford or a BMW say... You "could" upgrade the Ford to perform better than the BMW But even though the Ford will be much better performing - it will STLL be a Ford (even if it had a BMW lump in it) If you want a BMW and got the cash then get a BMW if you like the Ford wanna tweak it - fine go for it I don't give a crap really - I'm off to fit some bitching neons to the underside of my Ford G&G's and get a Kiss FM sticker / patch Hoping to get a pic of my gun with some girl showing her jugs off in next months Fast Gun Magazine Jeeezzz - am I really that sad - YUP

A 2-tone Raider from Zero One was a bit of a bitch to do but I was on a mission coz I'm a fussy so n so I got 99.5% of the ris by soaking it overnight in Fairy Power Spray and knackered 2 toothbrushes in process (don't clean teeth with it ffs - but had a tiny kiddies one for nooks n crannies) got inside and out - jeez them mofo's boat it on but a couple of tiny specks remained and I really mean tiny tiny kept the white numbers on ris - yeah it didn't fall off but it did work very very well - trick is to soak it overnight then scrub, repeat and after 2 or soaks its nigh on done, scrape gently any tiny bits off blah blah blah.... Flash hider came up well, the crane stock wasn't coming up that good and I think its still soaking in some ice cram tub in my garage coz I forgot about it as I replaced it for a fixed stubby M4 stock Yup easier to just respray it Krylon or Plastikote - think Plastikote is a more matt sheen to it plus easy to get from screwfix & other places If it don't come out brilliantly perfect or you haven't got OCD like moi - so f*cking what, just spray it (I went nuts on ris but tbh sod the rest of gun's flash/stock - scrub or sand & respray it) Its a starter gun, get ukara'd and from then on you never have to really worry no more as you will just buy RIF's from then on and most of us do not judge people by the colour of their guns or look down on the 2-tone players - we all started somewhere Well we might have a smile at somebody who packs a JBBG coz they believed that chubby lying clown - that was me not so long ago (I'd rather have well rounded 2-tone Raider player than some ultra high end chap with his head up his ar$e)

Blimey - now you might need another stock tube if you can't get the pin assembly out of that old stock it has to have the same or similar mechanism - just covered over as part of stock's plastic crap

pin in old crane - held on with a tiny allen key underneath usually and the hole on top to withdraw or hold the bolt/spring swap over pin from old stock to new stock I think is what Lozart means (if ya betteries now fit in that)

First the piston itself...... remove cylinder/tappet plop piston (with piston head on and either remove sector or ensure no teeth engaging piston teeth) The piston MUST flop back n forth with box done up - it should NOT snag or bind or stick it should fall down up/up depending on how you tilt box - but should of course remain on the runners (not so loose or worn it could come off runner under compression) If piston sticks or binds you will have a slower running gearbox and a slower returning spring = lower fps Piston head itself should be sitting perfectly in line Cylinder - free of any scores - check in case the jam damaged the internal surface of cylinder polish cylinder using silicone oil - not a lot but a few drops or so on soft tissue and then polish with a soft dry rag

Then buy tape / paint or Fairy Power spray failing that - use 2-tone orange/green/blue trees for cover seriously - cheaper than a Raider ??? no - avoid JBBG ffs

http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/27302-cyma-cm515-cheapo-plastic-keymod-aeg-l70-aprox/ barrel is fine 380mm hop isn't perfect but mine wasn't that bad stock motor was crap & shot 400-405fps out of box now shoots 349.999fps @ 24rps with on 7.4v on stock gears & neo motor still with stock hop but will change that a flat hop and call it that ain't gonna gonna go nuts with it coz it's a £70 gun after all Gearbox is decent - 8mm bushings etc.... For the money it is a good looking (from a distance) and actually even parts wise it is worth the cheapo costs BUT remember what it is a cheapo plastic starter - but a decent one & better than any crap from JBBG just don't go absolute nutz on it Where did you get from ??? if from TaiwanGun did you get the spring downgraded for free ?? EDIT - just seen you got it from TWG & skirimished it a few times so guess they downgraded it It is very very light - under 2kg and not as robust as G&G polymer's but it ain't bad after a few cheap tweaks but due to what it is - ffs don't bother with £30+ madbull bollox cyma barrels are pretty good brass barrels and not some piece of aliminium pipe just cut off and shoved in a JBBG gun as for R-hop etc... - I'd just go to say a decent hop unit and maybe flat hop if you want but that is it tweak box a bit (tappet plate needs a little modding if replacing nozzle & another tappet plate) AoE - ooohhhh the review says what I did to her inside box....

Don't go too nutz making gun shoot faster without correcting AoE first your piston's inital pick up - large tooth at back will snap off trying to run faster n faster fit deans & improve hop/bucking for now later on you can open her up more, re-do seals , correct AoE etc..... I'd suggest staying with stock or thereabouts gearset or perhaps 16:1 to 14:1 almost deffo you need a new piston with 3 steel teeth if you decide to short stroke and use a slightly higher spring to get fps back up - say m120 & lose 2 teeth blah blah blah mosfet blah blah blah neodym motor blah blah blah rewire blah blah blah decide how fast you really want to go but would suggest being happy getting into 20's up to 25rps the faster you go the more likely feed issues will occur plus it will crap out faster from wear/heat etc..... (unless you walk on water with shimming & assembly which many including myself have so much to learn still) Do it in stages bit by bit is best advice, coz it most deffo not as easy to get everything running ultra sweet here's some dream dreading for ya: http://www.airsoftsociety.com/forums/f10/legacys-guide-building-high-speed-aeg-87504/ go slowly - stick to around 20 until you rip her open, 25rps & she may over run and double fire 30rps & stock springs can get close to Pre Engagement on m100 springs (this is where short stroking comes in but a LOT more work has to be checked n done to continue) Trust me I've smashed f*ck out of many boxes pushing them & something else WILL fail the faster you go so a mild tweak here n there to get you up to around 20 is plenty hey I'm a poet & I didn't even know it I like that - 20 is plenty

sigh welcome to forum but no offense please read: http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/17294-ians-guide-to-noobism-on-a-tight-budget/ http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/3581-new-and-looking-for-somewhere-to-play/ infact try this: http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/12854-new-player-guides-info/ 99% of info is in there - saves a lot of time and you will gain a wealth of knowledge from those excellent guides (written by much wiser people than me I might add) After that you you will have a much better idea about airsoft and toy guns etc.... welcome once again sir

Oh crap, it is a weird hop indeed http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/24153-we-mk17-scar-h/

Special mega likey button required Cheered me up no end

oooh ya cow not exactly fair to compare a £123 polymer Raider to a £200 ICS but suppose if G&G were really crap then FS wouldn't stock them good business sense to offer choices for customer (JBBG are experts at selling crap to kids n mugs like moi) All that I will say - don't buy a gun just on looks listen to advice or opinions but make up YOUR own mind in the end It is YOUR gun you are buying for YOURSELF not for OTHER PEOPLE Yes it is almost guaranteed the moment you buy your ultimate gun you will see another that takes your fancy - jeeez it is so addictive, just one more etc..... heck you may go in there looking for M4 and walk out with an AK instead (then go back for M4 later and come out with GBB pistol/G36/BFG etc....) Enjoy your visit to the airsoft candy shop - if you like it and are happy with it then that is what matters in the end happy shooting - whatever you own

Nerf or nothing for little 'un we have had some crazy fights around the house many years back when Mrs Duck was out got totally owned on the landing/stairs from the 2 eldest kids (not much changes - still getting owned by 12yr olds with JBBG guns) Sold them all when he took up airsoft but still finding them darts around the place - great fun

Always very wise if you can see it, hold a gun to get a real idea of it you must become one with your gun - uhhm ergh - yeah ok its just a bb toy gun but does help to make your mind up

It is all around that area - most likely after more screw ups and problems and balls ups and a number of WTF ???? I'm still breaking stuff and with each screw up I'm learning more - mainly the more factor more time more care more examination of pieces fitting together and working correctly as they should number of ways to investigate further - it should seal very well against piston inside cylinder but you could open box, remove piston/cylinder assembly replace tappet+nozzle, close box up for a sec with a few screws, pop finger in cylinder window push tappet nozzle home against box hop against box n blow - your finger should cover the nozzle so it should seal I mean this may not be the ultimate test but one of many ways to test it seals properly and this is with hop right up against box btw, if possible with 3rd hand see where you lose the seal by pulling hop forward... Why - coz often when inserting a mag it may pull/push the hop a smidge as mag settles in hop feed tube so if it shifts forward half a millimetre then the hop may not seal properly in use This is just a passing comment and not a full diagnostic of your possible problem but demostrates the "joy" of our poxy toys I feel your pain - we all do, but I know I'm learning more n more with every bastid pile of junk poxy lame ar$e piece of crap gun I break/fix Still so very much to learn - I'm no expert far far from but have quite a lot of experience in breaking guns (I just need the time n experience in fixing them properly)

Fire Support are the supreme dogs bollox for ICS guns n support other sites offer ICS sales and some spares but Fire Support are the ICS loving mofo's out there that will fully support your gun for service/parts A fair amount of ICS guns come with 2 x mags instead of just one (my clear M4A1 or W-42 Sportsline came with 2 mags) peq box is included probably coz it will require it (but description says front handguard ?) best thing to do is ask on here as well as google up more images or a video review or two of it or any gun you like the look of I haven't owned that model so can't really comment much more but ICS & fire support are reputable mofos

Perfectly normal The cycle has slightly over run a smidge The tappet plate starts to retract before the piston is drawn back and tappet releases in plenty of time with 4 teeth still to go on piston. Piston is released later when bb is loaded into hop/bucking and away the bb should fly. Soon afterwards the cutoff lever should kick in. Often though the cycle will over run a bit but bb is long gone. Nothing to worry about but you still have 40% of a revolution of sector as the piston releases before tappet plate pulls back again. (Long after bb has launched) DSG's have half that amount of time as everything is going nutz So I very much doubt if tappet is being jerked away from hop as piston releases. Check the full smooth movement of tappet and Max Stoke of it fully back to allow bb to feed and Max forward to seal against bucking. Worse case scenario is where your lips if bucking protrude a little to restrict easy bb entry into hop from feed tube, easy to think nozzle is at fault But as 2 hop units are having trouble I doubt that is a likely issue atm.... Quite likely some wear has taken place and tappet is not moving the full amount backwards/forwards Though forwards should still work correctly unless some crap has caught up at front of box stopping the full forward movement. Sometimes some tappet modding is required to allow Max possible total movement but before you go nutz you need to remove tappet spring and thoroughly check the tappet movement. Also place hop unit against box with tappet fully forward Blow down barrel, should seal lovely, pull hop a smidge away and see how much you can withdraw hop unit before seal is lost, hopefully a 1mm or so otherwise you are only just sealing and in use you will lose fps. For the record it would be a very lucky guess if anybody can 101%% accurately diagnose the fault straight away What YOU have to do is check EVERYTHING is operating smoothly and correctly deciding if a particular is worn or failing the tappet spring could be too light - but I can tell you to lop off a coil or two or replace the nozzle could be cracked or not seated correctly your bucking could be torn - hmm possible but you tried another hop/barrel with same results my present gut feeling is nozzle not aligned or sealing perfectly but also possible wear or tappet not moving correctly weird thing is it WAS ok but somehow something has gone right out of whack with a crunch tappet "may" have got damaged but it was piston skewed off rails, but guess the piston's pick up tooth could of caught and maybe got close rear of tappet plate ??? if you could perhaps take some pics of the internals then others may be able to check for possible issues that would be a wise thing to consider if still stumped - especially sometimes you can't see wood for the trees

If nozzle/tappet is travelling fully back n forth Correct nozzle length etc... Nothing out of ordinary or incorrect short stroke Check the tappet plate didn't get bored Make sure full Max movement back n forth All silky smooth And double check tappet and trigger springs fitted correctly If these are fitted incorrectly they can catch tappet plate sliding back n forth If all OK inside box then it looks to be nozzle not sealing with hop - numerous things, worn out of alignment etc.. The paper test on magwell is not a sure way of checking for airleaks in my book I have had paper stay put or move very little but still poor seals/fps Soz for bad grammar - fone is being a nob