Sitting Duck

on V3's fitting a fet doesn't require opening up box as wiring is external the negative wire that ran from battery to motor is cut and fet is wired into it (fet switches negative supply to complete the switching circuit) on the switch itself - 2 red leads one from battery and one to motor these two wires are joined BUT on 1 terminal of switch the spare unused terminal has a thinner wire running back to fet - the mosfet's signal wire In effect instead of switch positive and had a permanent negative supply like old stock setup you now have a permanent posi supply a switched posi signal wire to fet which will trigger the fet and turn on/switch the negative supply to complete circuit/run the motor NB - this is a very basic setup using existing wire with addition of just 1 thinner wire to signal to fet to switch on/off

Only my own personal opinion.... Rifle scope - nope it ain't a dmr TBB - sod madbull a zci one I'd rather buy if your fps is a little down - say 330 & site is 350 plus you aren't 101% with current performance then go for a modest tbb like zci - aprox £20-ish, fps should creep up a little say 15fps-ish different buckings can make a big difference especially if fitted good or badly fitted look to reduce any barrel wobble & that is all you can do unless you go to next stage of r-hop (which I haven't got into yet so can't advise) anything left over - get decent .25's one other thing you could consider is another hop and getting a longer tbb with a 4" barrel extension son's 416 has a 407 zci in it with a barrel extension the hop is optional but you "could" keep old 300mm barrel n hop then swap longer barrel/hop over in a minute with the outer extension for woodland swap back to shorter 300mm for indoor/cqb stuff ooh now you are confused what to consider

yeah I suppose - think it has about a 400-ish barrel but tbh a dmr would need a bit more work to hop & perhaps barrel 425-450fps is fine but need to make sure its flight is as true as possible (more than normal aeg as you can't shoot below 25 or 30m MED - which is gonna be crap if bb's are all over the place/dropping short from not so good hop) give it a go on dmr maybe but sooner or later you may have to investigate the main problem or improve upon stock hop for dmr etc....

2 bolts, 2 brass sleeves + 2 sprung lugs/bullets oooh dunno special order them mofo's £3 posted ??? - can just chuck 'em in a jiffy bag It came off the AKFrizzle 901c crappy double eagle krinkov bollox but them bits and the folding stock should be compatible (99% reckon it is probably made by Cyma or JG I would of thought) if ya want the rear folding stock butt bit - £5 total to cover bit more postage/parcel but those bits n pieces should fit on your cm stuff anyway £6 for everything in pic but the side-bars you probably won't need - you would have to removegearbox to remove & fit the bars it should work with just screws/sleeves/lugs etc..... you shouldn't need any of the 901c stock itself really worth a shot I'd say - but maybe look to get some loctite thread seal/glue to stop you losing them bits again if it all works ok

its China made overseen by HongKong Quality Control roughly translated - $hit - but a little bit better $hit http://www.aps-concept.com/index.php?route=information/information&information_id=4 Eh? - s/hand or where/how did you come by this.... it is £100 to £120 gun - pull the box out - which you probably need to do to fit fet I'll bet she fires on auto no problem out of gun if so then that would indicate the selector/linkage is an area for investigating fet fitting and checking selector can all be done without opening up box and gun can be quickly tested on V3's Some V3 switches can fail or require a little modification but semi ok but not full-auto deffo sounds like selector plate or mechanism needs a once over.... Don't know for 101% sure as nozzle n stuff might be different but worse possible case scenario I would say any other V3 AK box might fit in there as is (but you wouldn't have quick change spring but it "might" work on auto etc and get gun going again until you get aps box looked at)

To me it is a term I suppose you could use for timed based games unlimited respawn to attack defending mofo's with one life sprinting like f*ck - lambs to the slaughter, cut down, back to respawn run like etc...... a few bases to take control of in shortest total time etc........ This is the game type that I'm drenched in sweat and screaming at Doris, Mavis & Ethel back at spawn all talking about corned beef and their poxy loadout or their wonderful gun FFS - girls get ya ar$e's in gear, this is the few moments that my enthusiasm can mask my $hite skills and you lot are just chatting whilst collecting ya pensions.... (actually - I'm too old for this $hit - maybe they got the right idea but c'mon lets go for it first n chat later)

Arctic harpoon ??? that should stand up well to cold & wet/snow

uhhhhm erghh not sure - it in theory shouldn't but some places could get shitty about ANY modification work but then if worried you could always crimp a small tamiya back on maybe ????

obviously its gotta match/blend in a bit (a orange ex-2-tone would spoil the look of any mofo gun of course) but I've swapped grips and heard a dying cat inside the gun and thought yeah sod that idea back to old pistol grip But mofo guns should come with a decent mofo grip & stock - or it just spoils the excitement of getting her out box first time

to me - if it works ok & motor sits at correct angle can cram decent thickness of wires in there not too naff or uncomfortable then that will do me - don't matter on make or even the look most of time my hand is covering most of it

A&K box £30 - maybe £35 G&G motor - f*ck all as it probably a stock red motor 16,000rpm ferrite A&K motor - "might" be a neodym - look carefully at the A&K - two slits at top of case if you see silver magnets = neodym and hard to turn, if so £15 for neodym perhaps if it is black like G&G then it is a ferrite and worth f*ck all I say f*ck all but in fact peeps need to keep some old ferrites for spares eg: contacts/brushes even the armatures etc..... then if/when neodym motor dies - brushes or the windings in armature craps out you got spares or rebuild into a frankentorque motor

best you don't visit down under - pretty sure Airsoft is still banned in Australia New Zealand - think that is ok though

Sitting Duck's used (knackered) Used AEG's & breakers yard:

Got cheapo crap like that That "might" do the job..... Folding AK stock bits n bobs that could fit Didn't chime in earlier coz thought you was after bespoke m14 hop or something But 74 stuff might be able to use /help

Soz double post

Sod it buy 2 nice new ones 30th & SRL always have spare Maybe the smaller cqb SR-S or whatever its called

YUP - TWA often has little wooden buildings given the "terrorist" look little sods - or bigger sods need to get out more or pop along and give us some target practice

Well to me as I play for giggles and not take it too seriously As I'm a sad git who spends way too much on crappy guns Plus running around out of shape - puffing n panting steamed up face protection, totally knackered..... I propose we just call it: SWEAT - yuk but hear me out as it does kinda fit..... Saddo's With Expensive Air Toys not exactly a great promotion to get more female players interested but kinda does paint a true-ish picture of us lot

Football is football ffs Yanks tried to mess it up with needing soccer No what yanks call football is padded rugby Wtf kick up n down pitch - football not soccer American football is padded rugby not football And a choccy bar is Marathon not Snickers Opal Fruits not Starburst Jif not Cif Some things should be left alone as is Think coco pops got changed but in a rare u-turn They decided to change it back to coco pops I just say I'm going shooting Saturday (Hopefully I don't get pounced on leaving the house)

Me personally I don't think the G&P m120 is that wonderful, sp00n didn't rate his and I have the Big Dragon clone or unbranded one and tbh not much better than a stock ferrite well it is a ferrite motor... If you are gonna buy a new motor get at least a neodym maybe the steady m140 or ak2m4 had a cheap zci "balanced" motor (both m140 and zci balanced 16tpi or something they both neodym) SHS blue, if that is the 3 steel teeth they are very very light but think the plastic is a tad too soft. Ripped one in an afternoon's spraying @ 30rps on son's 416. Lasted the afternoon but crapped out the next day in garden The gun I mean not my son, he is kind of house trained It might be OK for 20rps but I ain't that impressed with them just think they are too soft, bloody light piston. I like the grey ACM's 3 n 7 steel teeth piston at TWG atm, the 3 steel grey one went in there and lasted 2 full mental days and reckon 8k in total hosed through it so far Well that is just my take on stuff I use or have used in past

Nope - I stick to about £150 guns atm some BOT SRL G&G's at about £170 have fet's even 3 round burst mosfet's You don't HAVE to have a fet if it gun is still stock But me personally if I was opening a box to tweak it a little I'd fit a basic MOSFET in there anyway and unleash juicy hell if I want to and not have worry about arcing Depends if you can do the work yourself or take it to somebody, most of this work costs time than money really if you wanna do it as best as you can

soz you got pico ab fet....... the unplug crap was if you had the more expensive mofo Gate fets try a firestorm fet £10 baby mofo non-ab fet, bloody ace with built in thermal fuse get a neodym motor and run on 7.4v and get same if not faster results

semi spamming puts a massive strain on fet & motor if you are firing a lot on semi or muchas short bursts in a long bursty firefight the mofo's will get very very warm (even without Active Braking) Add to that Active Braking stopping the motor through reverse polarity each time then starting again from still and energy required from still and reverse to stop......... You know this yourself as you said...... only wany to test for sure is see if you can plug in a basic fet wired with deans & think the signal contacts might be micro deans anyway - the Gate should just unplug & then plug in a non-AB fet with male/female deans + micro deans test again and she should run cooler under semi burst testing if not then motor/wiring/reshim needs to be looked at dunno if she will over-run much as I dunno what rof/battery you are using - 24/25rps+ and she might start to double cycle I have found What is your normal rof aprox, as if replacing motor with a neodym one you can go from either a 10% to 50% increase in rof depending on motor installed. Again you need to decide if the fet or stock motor is the main issue or if there is a dry box or reshim needed to reduce friction/load on motor.... Yes them grips can get warm but if feeling it getting too warm/hot through ya gloves then it is too warm like you said

OK - you have a few options to consider....... G&G M4, 30th GC16 metal is a favorite and Airsoftworld 2-tone is nice snakeskin New range of G&G M4's look nice bot & srl's come with mosfet's cheaper Raider from Zero One two toned for free or wait and get skirmishing - see M25 airsoft thread or check new players section - where to play, google London airsoft etc.... get ya ukara and buy a RIF M4 Once you got a better budget - actually a good budget M4.... Then you can look at messing with your SRC for a little tweaking - seals/AoE/shimming/ - nothing expensive (actually if/when you service ya SRC gimme a shout as I highly recomend dump the crap sector gear with its thin teeth) if things don't go according to plan - and it probably won't go completely perfectly on your first box - no biggy try n try again to learn on it. - failing that if it goes mega tits up either new box or sell as spares in bits on fleabay/facebook etc.... but the experience you gain on that will greatly help when you work on your G&G IF or RIF you will really appreciate what a decent gun/box that is compared to the jbbg gun and things will go a lot more smoother if you ever get an AK or G36 - yup still common perhaps but you will find the V3 gearbox's a bit easier to work on and test with their seperate motor frame/cage etc.... That SRC isn't complete $hit - still miles better than a B500a1 - and SRC M4 will do anybody proud to start off with just there are some slightly better makes/models out there - but still not a complete foolish or unwise choice just with its 6mm bearings/bushings, the trigger stop post broke in one of mine (happens to a couple of different makes of gun btw) it is worth servicing - just I wouldn't go too nuts with high speed gears/motor etc.... the 2 -part hop can be removed and receiver dremmel'd a bit to take a modern 1 piece hop - but like I said why bother going too mad get shooting - get ukara - and make the next step or 2 steps up, play with src and learn a few things trust me if you get into it and learn from a few failures - you can start to make & improve your middle range gun (that to me is the fun/stress but great feeling when now n then you do make a gun better rather than worse) Well that is just my take on this - maybe one day I might go up to top level stuff but happy as a pig in $hit messing with cheapo stuff whilst I'm very much still learning along the way

Cyma m14' can suffer a crap hop and often need to get returned. They had them on silly offer at gunfire and was tempted to get one for a mofo dmr. But reading up a bit I thought nah I will stick most of my boring run of the mill stuff and cheap to maintain when I break em