Sitting Duck

JBBG have been doing this for yonks BullDog aka BULL$HIT bb's actually they wasn't that bad - worst ones so far been BBGuns4Less - FireBall 0.25's f*ck me they are dire eggs shape crap think 1 in 3 or 4 fire really short (if TriggerHappy says it coz of G&G - pi$$ off ) WOOOOHOOOOOO my 2,000th post of utter $hite (damn I wish I wasn't outbidded on the "Get a Life" fleabay auction yesterday) Maybe if you had designed a fancy new CQB site You could make the floor slightly sloped with a gulley for them to run/collect into making it easier to clear up/recycle and keep the corridors main paths free of bb's Reality this would require a lot of careful planning/costs into a decent indoor arena site Alas most sites can't afford this much planning/budget as well as time to construct a false floor No doubt though there must be $hitloads of bb's need clearing after each player has fired off say 2k heck even 1k for semi only indoor cqb say - 2 teams of 20 = 40k + that is a lot of bb's rolling around and will need tidying up where do there go...... The Trimex recycling plant of course

Don't bother trying to store them charged To me they always seemed to lose charge in storage But that is normal I think.... Lipo's can't be allowed to drop too low or they crap out if they deplete too much (Think its below 3v they start to screw up a bit but don't quote me) Use nimah's n charge the night before Replace as n when with lipo is what most of us have done now

Spoon Feeding is one thing BUT I ain't f*ckin' BREAST FEEDING - no thanks (normally I'd post a daft silly pic but this thread is designed for short n simple answers - very difficult for me to comply with btw)

Check your previous posts I have tried to help you a couple of times

This guy also thought it was a typo too... Iwas gonna post a pic of Jimmy Krankie but it was getting a little confusing plus I didn't want to offend anybody North of the border.....

well if any mofo's can measure the bloomin' thing then pop along to hobbyking's - Battery Locator: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/lithium_polymer_battery_configuration.asp bung in dimensions of the 350mah 7.4v lipo - dunno the burst or the actual sizes (you rich bastid's have your moment to shine here) BUT - this sort of stuff might get you out of $hit http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=32170 NB: I AIN'T SAYING THE ABOVE BATTERY IS EXACT ONE TO FIT BUT JUST DUG UP SOMETHING if you get dimensions then you might be able to source something as per usual - it is up to potential buyer to double - triple check all dimensions n crap are within tolerances etc do not shoot the duck Or try to make up a dummy block size to enable you to work out the aprox dimensions off-cut of wood, rolled up cardboard taped together, couple of chewing gum packs, kitkat bar(s) etc.... almost anything to help suss out what dimensions you might have to work with.... drop a couple of mm off each max dimension to allow for give n take plus wires etc.... bang in the dimensions and see what comes up....

should use a large nimah 8.4v battery but with a small tamiya by default (unless the small tamiya has been replaced) say 150mm x 45mm x 25mm at a guess YOU really need to check out the max battery size yourself then weigh up what your options are (probably 7.4v 25/30c lipo tbh)

Absolute agree - if he has one to hand or arriving soon Think Ian's idea of slightly lower spring and add spacer/washers if needed is best Was just saying if he rips her open to consider cutting coil(s) might be worth a check/try spring in reverse & may drop fps (later on if spring loses tension refit spring correctly etc....) But yes correct spring is best option if available

pulling the reply to pieces: So it was feeding/working when he received it So now the motor spins but no firing action - hmmm gears mashed up or likely piston's pick up tooth snapped off but this happened AT THE SHOP or with the TECH GUY "testing it" OK - it might have not liked some mags - but that isn't uncommon it did feed with other mags he bought from your recommendation - 20 mins maybe is a bit weird & short lived ???? but did feed it clearly states in black n white Secondly the gun was still cycling at the shop but then stopped a few shots later ??? I'm wondering was the guy going nutz on 11.1v 35c lipo with a higher speed motor or something Gun went tits up - but was working at first...... Furthermore the motor problem height: & OK a minor tweak on motor height maybe perhaps from transit - but it is all starting to add up to there is more to this than he the buyer is letting on imho Have read this over at Zero In Forum and they are all singing from the same page too 7 weeks wait and it don't sound 101% correct 2 lots of forums saying the same stuff - gotta love this quote from Z1 tackle though: Yes you could tell him where to go, or maybe offer a few spares n stuff you might have to hand but first off the buyer needs to be a little more honest perhaps or accept too much time may have passed and therefore $hit happens with anything second hand hope you get it resolved reasonably ok without the stone cold harshness of F*CK OFF

Gotta admit them AK's do have the slight edge over G&G CM M4's (Ian n others smile) just I do find M4's a little more ergonomic for me to use

Think you should offer him your p* in compensation or at very least send him a Satan aeg motor to cure the feed issues seriously - it is 99% mag related and double feeding most of this "double feeding" is not double but mis feeding bb doesn't fully load/fire 1 bb but partially loads and then the next bb plops in there behind it eg: 1 - 1 - 0 - 2 -1 - 1 - 0 - 2 etc.... mags and maybe hop unit - but gearbox/motor ??? - nahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

ABSOLUTE BOLLOCKS Distance of goods crap is something like: quoted from here: http://www.which.co.uk/consumer-rights/regulation/distance-selling-regulations Your right to cancel an order The Distance Selling Regulations state that your right to cancel an order starts the moment you place your order and doesn’t end until seven working days from the day after you receive your goods. This is the minimum consumers must be given and many sellers choose to exceed this, so always check the terms and conditions in case you have longer to return your items. As this seven-day working period is the time you have to decide whether to cancel, by law the seller can’t say that you must have returned the goods within this time frame. Confirmation of your cancellation should be sent by email, letter or fax. I had this $hit once in particular on ebay from some clown who contacted me 19 days later what a w@nker he was trying it on ffs (zero feedback - new member that you can't block now on ebay) thought then he was trying it on to return another broken item that wasn't mine or had a change of heart - but most likely saying it was faulty suffice to say I no longer sell stuff on ebay you are trying to help the guy with offer of bits n bobs but he has had his chance if this was first contact and that store is trying it on even more than my ebay friendly buyer - who are they JBBG ffs ???

Any updates on how Murphy is getting on ??? did she fire bridging 4+5 or did it start a lipo bbq ???

Cyma's are good and TWG are probably one of best places to get 028's from (or higher end ones) dont get the slightly cheaper even more plastic cyma/spartac rebranded ones springs will need to be downgraded for UK (free from Gunfire/TaiwanGun) but as Lozart just pointed out you will need ukara

welcome sir I STRONGLY advise you to consider giving this a read: http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/17294-ians-guide-to-noobism-on-a-tight-budget/ as it will save us SOO much time almost any gun will do but don't decide on just one gun type when there are the common ak m4 g36 + some others read up a little - watch a few vids maybe to see if you wanna have a go skirmishing or just plink in ya garden pop along for a day & rent a gun at a site to truely test the water first and see for yourself players guns n crap Don't get me wrong I love to wipe n feed people, but feel you need to do a little bit more research before I'll just say get a Cyma - damn it I'm doing it all again..... seriously - have a little read up first please - a LOT of answers are in some of them guides and a load more answers to questions you haven't thought of yet are in there too http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/12854-new-player-guides-info/ welcome to the world of big boy toy guns, just avoid jumping in and buying crap from sites with BB in their names (my only quest in life is to limit how rich JambWow gets from new players taking up the sport - wish somebody stopped me making same mistakes)

Daft reply & I presume it is a bolt action sniper (so short stroke won't work here duck) But on the odd chance that the spring might be irregular type - fit it ar$e about face ? (heck if spring change is easy peasy - it "might" be worth a short anyway "just in case") I know in aeg's fitting a spring ar$e about face can result in a drop of expected fps

back in the good ol' days when cars n stuff could be "fixed" or at a push bodged to get ya home now it is a case of - ahh the swively up nut pcb is boned - that is £500 please wtf - can't you just replaced that iddy biddy thingy majig ??? sorry m8 - it is a whole new unit - it is how they come now jeeez back back on topic glad it was 4.5 days & not 45 days delivery yes the B3 is a kinda trickle charger but will get you going and ya feet wet using lipo's imho anybody who buys new nimah's instead of lipo's needs their head or wallet tested OK if somebody is selling off some good cheapish ones but sod buying new nimah's next thing to look at is dropping tamiya to deans or T connections - but like most stuff do it in stages get 'em charged and get shooting for now

Married / Grounded Not much in it really Know this though..... Behind every great man - stands a great woman and right behind that great woman is another man checking out her ar$e

Yup 48yrs young, smoker so I fully understand about fitness etc.... First thing forget ya K D bollox I'll gladly let the younger lot go sprinting off all guns ablazing I'll hold base, or try a sneaky road less travelled route to get a few kills before I'm taken out Failing that I'll go for a decoy or diversion mode of play Hopefully my younger or the more professional players will seize the moment to gain ground whilst my hairy ol'ar$e is being shot to bits..... I know I'm never gonna own or dominate but I play for fun or $hits n giggles that is all.... By all means go for a sniper role, but you can have a great time if you don't take it all too serious and try to play above your level and be something you are not. No offense meant, give it a go but by all means try a few different styles of play without the stress if you succeed or not. You could very well make a good sniper but above all don't get too stressed if things don't always work out. Learn your own strengths n weaknesses but above all enjoy being an unfit saddo with you guns Well it works for me

Realistically there are a number of ways to test this n that on it suppose the easiest method if OP doesn't have test meter n stuff pull off the mini deans signal connector The mini deans has two connection points a posi supply & return (signal wire) - so it should be a case of bridged those connections then that in effect is the low amp current from trigger pic says 1,000 words.............. that should work even if you got 1 or 2 wires going into the black mini deans connector if it all works properly then ya tech is a nob !!!!! he might of wired a posi lead to wrong side of the mini deans - eg: 7.4v to 7.4v supply but that shouldn't cause it to fire I would of thought as it is same 7.4v+ supply most likely if 2 wires coming off - eg 4+5 then these may have shorted or wired signal single wire wrong/shorted or trigger stuck shut as Spatch suggested Who knows atm but quick test of Merf or let's call him Murphy Anyway - remove black mini deans - bridge them connectors - CAREFULLY with insulated wire (suppose to be super safe test eviroment - a small switch with 2 wires on then jam into black mini deans connection point) c'mon - use some common sense here but you get the idea of how to run a quick test but use some 18 pence and FFS don't try to short any larger red deans - you are just gonna test the BLACK MINI deans connection in pic (This duck is not responsible for any deep fried colour blind mofo's and use switch+wires is safest method tbh) ignore my ahh sod it what's the worst that can happen and start lipo bbq's inside my house Hope Murphy feels better soon

Think the Merf's programming mode is done by unplugging deans fet to motor lead ???? Well that is what I read in Merf PDF manual or something But deffo check for short circuit first

Sounds like the first to check is signal wire... Think that is the smaller black mini deans connector That wire that runs to turn on fet may have got chewed up by motor, crimped/clamped by gearbox closing up or even the classic M4 pin punching right through wires as it got fitted... That is my guess atm - a short, probably signal wire

Short on the signal wire Pretty sure Gates are guaranteed for a year First off explain a bit more coz how the heck Can a "tech" install something that badly n untested ??? Also programmable fet's normally have a 5sec window when connecting battery In other words this is where you get the time to customise the bursts n crap... So if fet is programmed correctly, then you WAIT 5 seconds before pulling trigger if you fitted a battery on there.... Otherwise you enter the "programming" mode Which you may have done by accident and messed up the stored settings so that it no longer cycles a 3rnd burst For the record I don't own a Merf 3.2 But messed around with a Kong II Which is same meat different gravy Only real difference is Merf is Active Breaking fet Re-read manual and look for a "restore or default" mode That should return the Merf back to a default state if programming messed up However if no joy, then a process of elimination test with a basic normal 3034 fet... Unplug the Merf with the deans connectors The plug in a basic non AB fet with signal wire And she should work if no shorts If so then Merf could be boned If still going nutz then you got a shirt on signal wire to fet But your "tech" should ofvsorted and tested this all out tbh Or it can tested with a multimeter for voltage or continuity If you measure signal wire n negative battery You should not get any voltage until you pull trigger There are a few ways to test out stuff, could be defective but likely to be short or messed up programming

2kg polymer 4kg full pot metal tbh it is the bloke wielding it - moi... That could do with losing a bit of weight

Me personally I'd try n get at least one aeg hitting 349.9999999fps on 0.20's with AoE & bearing spring guide & great seals etc..... Then try a flat hop on a new barrel - most you could probably go to is an AK type 455mm on full cylinder using .25's (not gonna get into vol ratio maths crap but that is about max barrel on noimal aeg cylinder using a bit heavier bb imho) I would get one of ya guns running very sweet and then decide if you still wanna go to dmr route then you can chuck in a higher spring n see later if it is worth it - but get gun running and shooting better first before you commit to dmr maybe