Sitting Duck

ABSOLUTE BOLLOCKS Distance of goods crap is something like: quoted from here: http://www.which.co.uk/consumer-rights/regulation/distance-selling-regulations Your right to cancel an order The Distance Selling Regulations state that your right to cancel an order starts the moment you place your order and doesn’t end until seven working days from the day after you receive your goods. This is the minimum consumers must be given and many sellers choose to exceed this, so always check the terms and conditions in case you have longer to return your items. As this seven-day working period is the time you have to decide whether to cancel, by law the seller can’t say that you must have returned the goods within this time frame. Confirmation of your cancellation should be sent by email, letter or fax. I had this $hit once in particular on ebay from some clown who contacted me 19 days later what a w@nker he was trying it on ffs (zero feedback - new member that you can't block now on ebay) thought then he was trying it on to return another broken item that wasn't mine or had a change of heart - but most likely saying it was faulty suffice to say I no longer sell stuff on ebay you are trying to help the guy with offer of bits n bobs but he has had his chance if this was first contact and that store is trying it on even more than my ebay friendly buyer - who are they JBBG ffs ???

Any updates on how Murphy is getting on ??? did she fire bridging 4+5 or did it start a lipo bbq ???

Cyma's are good and TWG are probably one of best places to get 028's from (or higher end ones) dont get the slightly cheaper even more plastic cyma/spartac rebranded ones springs will need to be downgraded for UK (free from Gunfire/TaiwanGun) but as Lozart just pointed out you will need ukara

welcome sir I STRONGLY advise you to consider giving this a read: http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/17294-ians-guide-to-noobism-on-a-tight-budget/ as it will save us SOO much time almost any gun will do but don't decide on just one gun type when there are the common ak m4 g36 + some others read up a little - watch a few vids maybe to see if you wanna have a go skirmishing or just plink in ya garden pop along for a day & rent a gun at a site to truely test the water first and see for yourself players guns n crap Don't get me wrong I love to wipe n feed people, but feel you need to do a little bit more research before I'll just say get a Cyma - damn it I'm doing it all again..... seriously - have a little read up first please - a LOT of answers are in some of them guides and a load more answers to questions you haven't thought of yet are in there too http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/12854-new-player-guides-info/ welcome to the world of big boy toy guns, just avoid jumping in and buying crap from sites with BB in their names (my only quest in life is to limit how rich JambWow gets from new players taking up the sport - wish somebody stopped me making same mistakes)

Daft reply & I presume it is a bolt action sniper (so short stroke won't work here duck) But on the odd chance that the spring might be irregular type - fit it ar$e about face ? (heck if spring change is easy peasy - it "might" be worth a short anyway "just in case") I know in aeg's fitting a spring ar$e about face can result in a drop of expected fps

back in the good ol' days when cars n stuff could be "fixed" or at a push bodged to get ya home now it is a case of - ahh the swively up nut pcb is boned - that is £500 please wtf - can't you just replaced that iddy biddy thingy majig ??? sorry m8 - it is a whole new unit - it is how they come now jeeez back back on topic glad it was 4.5 days & not 45 days delivery yes the B3 is a kinda trickle charger but will get you going and ya feet wet using lipo's imho anybody who buys new nimah's instead of lipo's needs their head or wallet tested OK if somebody is selling off some good cheapish ones but sod buying new nimah's next thing to look at is dropping tamiya to deans or T connections - but like most stuff do it in stages get 'em charged and get shooting for now

Married / Grounded Not much in it really Know this though..... Behind every great man - stands a great woman and right behind that great woman is another man checking out her ar$e

Yup 48yrs young, smoker so I fully understand about fitness etc.... First thing forget ya K D bollox I'll gladly let the younger lot go sprinting off all guns ablazing I'll hold base, or try a sneaky road less travelled route to get a few kills before I'm taken out Failing that I'll go for a decoy or diversion mode of play Hopefully my younger or the more professional players will seize the moment to gain ground whilst my hairy ol'ar$e is being shot to bits..... I know I'm never gonna own or dominate but I play for fun or $hits n giggles that is all.... By all means go for a sniper role, but you can have a great time if you don't take it all too serious and try to play above your level and be something you are not. No offense meant, give it a go but by all means try a few different styles of play without the stress if you succeed or not. You could very well make a good sniper but above all don't get too stressed if things don't always work out. Learn your own strengths n weaknesses but above all enjoy being an unfit saddo with you guns Well it works for me

Realistically there are a number of ways to test this n that on it suppose the easiest method if OP doesn't have test meter n stuff pull off the mini deans signal connector The mini deans has two connection points a posi supply & return (signal wire) - so it should be a case of bridged those connections then that in effect is the low amp current from trigger pic says 1,000 words.............. that should work even if you got 1 or 2 wires going into the black mini deans connector if it all works properly then ya tech is a nob !!!!! he might of wired a posi lead to wrong side of the mini deans - eg: 7.4v to 7.4v supply but that shouldn't cause it to fire I would of thought as it is same 7.4v+ supply most likely if 2 wires coming off - eg 4+5 then these may have shorted or wired signal single wire wrong/shorted or trigger stuck shut as Spatch suggested Who knows atm but quick test of Merf or let's call him Murphy Anyway - remove black mini deans - bridge them connectors - CAREFULLY with insulated wire (suppose to be super safe test eviroment - a small switch with 2 wires on then jam into black mini deans connection point) c'mon - use some common sense here but you get the idea of how to run a quick test but use some 18 pence and FFS don't try to short any larger red deans - you are just gonna test the BLACK MINI deans connection in pic (This duck is not responsible for any deep fried colour blind mofo's and use switch+wires is safest method tbh) ignore my ahh sod it what's the worst that can happen and start lipo bbq's inside my house Hope Murphy feels better soon

Think the Merf's programming mode is done by unplugging deans fet to motor lead ???? Well that is what I read in Merf PDF manual or something But deffo check for short circuit first

Sounds like the first to check is signal wire... Think that is the smaller black mini deans connector That wire that runs to turn on fet may have got chewed up by motor, crimped/clamped by gearbox closing up or even the classic M4 pin punching right through wires as it got fitted... That is my guess atm - a short, probably signal wire

Short on the signal wire Pretty sure Gates are guaranteed for a year First off explain a bit more coz how the heck Can a "tech" install something that badly n untested ??? Also programmable fet's normally have a 5sec window when connecting battery In other words this is where you get the time to customise the bursts n crap... So if fet is programmed correctly, then you WAIT 5 seconds before pulling trigger if you fitted a battery on there.... Otherwise you enter the "programming" mode Which you may have done by accident and messed up the stored settings so that it no longer cycles a 3rnd burst For the record I don't own a Merf 3.2 But messed around with a Kong II Which is same meat different gravy Only real difference is Merf is Active Breaking fet Re-read manual and look for a "restore or default" mode That should return the Merf back to a default state if programming messed up However if no joy, then a process of elimination test with a basic normal 3034 fet... Unplug the Merf with the deans connectors The plug in a basic non AB fet with signal wire And she should work if no shorts If so then Merf could be boned If still going nutz then you got a shirt on signal wire to fet But your "tech" should ofvsorted and tested this all out tbh Or it can tested with a multimeter for voltage or continuity If you measure signal wire n negative battery You should not get any voltage until you pull trigger There are a few ways to test out stuff, could be defective but likely to be short or messed up programming

2kg polymer 4kg full pot metal tbh it is the bloke wielding it - moi... That could do with losing a bit of weight

Me personally I'd try n get at least one aeg hitting 349.9999999fps on 0.20's with AoE & bearing spring guide & great seals etc..... Then try a flat hop on a new barrel - most you could probably go to is an AK type 455mm on full cylinder using .25's (not gonna get into vol ratio maths crap but that is about max barrel on noimal aeg cylinder using a bit heavier bb imho) I would get one of ya guns running very sweet and then decide if you still wanna go to dmr route then you can chuck in a higher spring n see later if it is worth it - but get gun running and shooting better first before you commit to dmr maybe

I refer to the few hairs I have left on my head which are mainly grey well them grey hairs on my head and arms chest back (not gonna lower the tone even further by checking for grey pubes etc...) back on track - I refer to my ol bastid grey hairs as quite simply " Threads of Wisdom " yeah I'm an old fart but have attained snippets of wisdom by learning from my many many screw ups or mistakes over many moons/decades (still aquiring more wisdom and I still screw up - just hopefully a little less often than in my younger "know it all" days) Fact of the matter is I am now wiser and realise that I will never know it all - in fact very little but old enough now to not give a to$$ about trying to prove it to them youngsters anymore They will learn like we all did falling ar$e over tit I'm still an ol' grumpy bastid - just a more mellow ol' grumpy bastid

Not the Allegro - or rather the ALL AGRO jeez I briefly owned one for a weekend - was a friggin' deathtrap mainly coz brakes needing doing and so due to car's value it was beyond economical repair

soz but was skipping bits n pieces but my gut feeling was isoprol to clean and a lightly damp sqeezed out cloth of silicone run down say 80 to 85% of barrel (mark on cleaning rod where the hop or bucking is and keep an inch away from that mark - common sense really) then a dry cloth if poss to polish off That was what I rolled with - but really gotta keep away from hop or you gotta strip it down and wash bucking in washing up liquid Washing up liquid is about one of best de-greasers to remove slicone oil coz it is a bitch to clean up spills at work of it but jeez it is bloody good stuff we use to reduce drag in print industry on folders & guillotines etc... spill it on floor and it is really like an ice skating rink - really slippery stuff and only a tiny amount needed (so spills that happened in past need to dealt with properly coz it is a bit dangerous in workplace floor) but yeah more slippery than an italian waiter round ya bird on holiday and yeah sounds like the R-hop bloke or bloke that has done numerous r-hop & barrel lapping vids edit: small additional bit of info about silicone oil and stuff...... Like I said it greatly reduces drag on our machines at work - mega fact there BUT also it greatly reduces static - which on our machines causes very weird bizarre results of materials (paper) not behaving as expected - the static can create even further drag n stuff (you really need to see this to believe it) Especially with digitally printed stock/paper that still has a "charge" left it in it fine quick spray and machines run as expected once again for a while (presume the fine coating seperates m/c & static paper to transfer freely etc.. but I dunno the exact science crap on this) BUT it does help to minimise or assist in regaining control of weird static sheets through the folding machines.... Anyway - soz for additional bollox but like a plastic comb or balloon or all other basic static fun science tests..... Often wondered if any minor slight possible static could ever be picked up as the plastic bb is fired or dragged/pushedd down the steel/aliminium/brass barrel after the rubber hop has created magnus thingy majig.... My own gut feeling and untested hunch btw - is very very little possible chance of static building up but none the less there could be a very very slight possible chance that "maybe" some bb's might have or be prone to "static" than others ? Anyway - this is very very slim possible chance of it happening or stuff but again silicone does yeild good results for when static can cause really weird effects or results in my line of work..... A final word of caution though - though this won't transform your aeg into a dmr when a little barrel polishing is done I would not advise you polish a barrel on a gun running a bit "warm" as I would expect a slight possible increase in fps from the reduced drag and smoother movement of bb down barrel Not an additional 100fps crap but quite likely a possible 10 or 15fps maybe more if ya barrel is really full of crap So if ya gun is shooting quite close to ya site's limit and in need of a clean - maybe ease off the silicone (well at least until its passed the chrono coz I'd expect it might just go a smidge higher if polished correctly) common sense stuff but really use with caution only say 80% down the barrel coz it will screw ya hop right up if it gets in there

Hillman Imp - jeez that was an odd vehicle yup my parents got a Sunbeam - wish they got the Lotus Sunbeam Worse one was an Alpine - jeez a bag of bolts rattling in a Quality Street tin sounded quieter than that They always sounded like the had no friggin oil in 'em - front wheel drive engine screeming let me out let me out !!!!!

We are old Went to somebody's 50th bash on Saturday.... Jeez look at these old bastids as I looked around the place Slowly realising - f*ck - I'm only 18 months away myself Whoaaaahhhh - who is that ugly ol' bastid in the mirror I say... oops - uhm yeah that ugly ol' mofo is me I realise (now I just stop looking) But seriously - I didn't see myself as old as them f*ckers at weekend but soon me & Mrs Duck came to that horrible conclusion - it will be us very soon Now planning on retirement homes with a skirmish site close by and easy wheelchair/zimmer frame access

F*CK ME - they are supposed to be in stock ffs you should get them in a week ffs Alas UK HobbyKing don't stock "airsoft" stuff £9:23 delivery + paypal fees (bloody hate getting nobbled for fees) But weird thing is the postage from EU stays the same no matter how nutz you go I added more n more stuff to cart and the weight was getting up to 4kg but still same Yeah best not proceed me thought - they are cheap but Mrs Duck may wire these vast haul of lipo's to my bollox (so I cleared my cart as I like my balls unfried and attached) charger is fine - saw that on fleabay for about £11:50 shipped from a UK seller If push comes to shove and they are dragging heals on shipping lmk and I'll send/loan ya one or two if it comes to it Can't be 45 days ffs - jeez otherwise people would be best ordering up a lipo when you first start going for ukara or stuff like that

Hillman Avenger - the cheapo "lidl" copy - not much changes with me as per usual & totally off topic from moi a quick boring story...... Local Car Spares shop near me - had a smug bastid "answer for everything" git serving at counter...... I walk in on a Sunday morning to get some brakes etc..... "A set of front disc pads for a Hillman Avenger please....." "Ahhhhhh - Hillman Avenger, I used to have one of those sir......." Just as I'm about to strike up a conversation with him about they ain't bad etc..... he then continues with the line: "But I soon got rid of that pile of rust - and got myself a proper car" (smug cheesey grin) He had all the answers to all the cars "Petrol cap for a Skoda ? - yeah that sounds like a fair swap sir" so pointless trying to argue with the tosser plus he was a lot bigger than me Ahh many moons ago - when cars had points (pups maybe need to google that)

yeah but fleeced lined rifle bag guys.... gimme the paypal details bro coz I want dat sick best mofo gun evvvvvaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhh FANTASTIC - just don't do this bad boy justice "can provide better pictures" - nah its looks pretty bollox enough fanx

You can buy a stfu lot of high end gun(s), top price batteries, charger along with stfu loadout n stuff Nothing wrong with that - people can spend as much or as little as they deem fit or can afford Usually though most go for a more modest but half decent first investment I keep comparing it all to ya first car - yes you can get a new/recent BMW if you wish but most go for the bashed up Ford (TriggerHappy will no doubt make some "bashed up G&G/Ford's of airsoft" joke no doubt) batteries - usually many settle for 7.4v lipo's about a min 20c but if possible go for 25c burst rating 35c is optional but all of this depends on what is available to fit in ya gun 11.1v lipo's usually are a bit too much to use on stock guns and trigger contacts can arc out/ burn up with carbon deposits much quicker there is 9.9v LiFe batteries which offer a middle or stop gap boost without going nutz on 11.1v however the range of LiFe batteries is very limited and tbh I don't think they are that good on tweaked guns stock guns you get a bit more zest than a 7.4v - tweaked guns though a 9.9v LiFe seems very very little difference (they don't seem to have the raw grunt lipo's can offer for response when running a more powerful neodym motor etc...) Chargers - well at a push almost anything will do as they are smart chargers that should stop charging when done Easiest model is a B3 type as it plugs straight into mains wall socket - so no psu unit required But I have used the really cheapo few quid ones with a router psu trickling away for a while now.... The above cheapo basic chargers do the job at a push but no other options slow charge - can't monitor each cell's voltage or adjust charging rate and cut off point B6 type - watch out for clones btw, these B6 have numerous features and programme modes adjustable cut off voltage/charge rate etc...... They usually need a decent psu but there is a mains version - just has a transformer psu unit above the charger circuit Me personally would suggest either a basic B3 type to get going or a B6 + psu if you can afford it Batteries - lipo if buying new & forget the old school nimah type The gun you buy will dictate what options/price you face Buying batteries from Airsoft shops will very likely mean paying more than going to a RC shop But often the bespoke "airsoft" lipo's will cost more than the block type batteries used in most RC stuff If buying a gun with a more bespoke thin stick or nunchuck type of battery then range/capacity/price will leave you with fewer choices HobbyKing either UK or EU warehouse is best/quickest delivery option with less delay and no possible import duty to pay They sell both clone B6 or genuine B6 chargers - youtube vids show you how to tell the difference Many have bought what they thought was genuine ones from fleabay/amazon only to find out they are snide copies (copies are not that bad but for a little bit more get a genuine B6 from a reputable seller) Avoid the "B" grade lipo's too on HobbyKing HK International I have been told as they are just the reject crap batteries Like most stuff - you can get by on a budget but don't scrimp too much or you will end up with real crap (eg: JBBG plinkers, crap defective bb's that jam, dodgy eyepro that does jack to protect your eyes etc..)

Alas this B3 type ac charger is out of stock in Europe: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=77525 or on fleabay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Imax-RC-B3AC-2S-3S-LiPo-RC-Battery-Balance-Charger-with-Uk-Plug-UK-STOCK-/161794113290?hash=item25abae3f0a Now for tight ar$e gits like moi you could scrape by with this: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=41730 But you will need a 1a 12v psu, an old modem/adsl/router psu like a belkin/netgear may do the trick It will take a while to trickle charge but could get you by at a scrape Most higher end chargers like B6 types use a higher amp psu so they can charge faster at higher rates 2a 3a etc... than around 800mah of the cheapo basic chargers possible options to buy from EU hobbyking with batteries: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=41730 (but needs an old modem/router psu that you might have knocking about) or a basic one with a bit more oomph in it: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=73951 simple 240v charger http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=73946 (240v basic charger) GENUINE B6 MOFO CHARGER - gen chargers are already calibrated (I got some clone B6's but will need to look into calibrating them before using - gen B6's are ready to use out of box) http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=31467 needs a 5a 11v to 18v psu (at a push a pc laptop psu say 16v 4.5a could get by) ((http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-IBM-Lenovo-Thinkpad-08K8203-72W-16V-4-5A-Power-AC-Adapter-Laptop-Charger-/400423702601?hash=item5d3b1cd049 - might do but don't quote me that the power plug is exactly correct but think it might be 2.5mm x 5.5mm in B6 charger)) Genuine B6 charger is couple of quid cheaper at UK site but if buying the airsoft batteries from EU may as well get some sort of charger from EU too as shipping will be zilch on top of battery shipment Well you got some options to consider - according to what's left in ya wallet

Fairy Power spray is your friend takes a bit of time to soak in overnight....... couple of toothbrushes - inc a toddlers one comes out really well - 99.999999% Zero One puke green removed or you can just say wtf & Krylon/Plastikote over it