Sitting Duck

First the piston itself...... remove cylinder/tappet plop piston (with piston head on and either remove sector or ensure no teeth engaging piston teeth) The piston MUST flop back n forth with box done up - it should NOT snag or bind or stick it should fall down up/up depending on how you tilt box - but should of course remain on the runners (not so loose or worn it could come off runner under compression) If piston sticks or binds you will have a slower running gearbox and a slower returning spring = lower fps Piston head itself should be sitting perfectly in line Cylinder - free of any scores - check in case the jam damaged the internal surface of cylinder polish cylinder using silicone oil - not a lot but a few drops or so on soft tissue and then polish with a soft dry rag

Then buy tape / paint or Fairy Power spray failing that - use 2-tone orange/green/blue trees for cover seriously - cheaper than a Raider ??? no - avoid JBBG ffs

http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/27302-cyma-cm515-cheapo-plastic-keymod-aeg-l70-aprox/ barrel is fine 380mm hop isn't perfect but mine wasn't that bad stock motor was crap & shot 400-405fps out of box now shoots 349.999fps @ 24rps with on 7.4v on stock gears & neo motor still with stock hop but will change that a flat hop and call it that ain't gonna gonna go nuts with it coz it's a £70 gun after all Gearbox is decent - 8mm bushings etc.... For the money it is a good looking (from a distance) and actually even parts wise it is worth the cheapo costs BUT remember what it is a cheapo plastic starter - but a decent one & better than any crap from JBBG just don't go absolute nutz on it Where did you get from ??? if from TaiwanGun did you get the spring downgraded for free ?? EDIT - just seen you got it from TWG & skirimished it a few times so guess they downgraded it It is very very light - under 2kg and not as robust as G&G polymer's but it ain't bad after a few cheap tweaks but due to what it is - ffs don't bother with £30+ madbull bollox cyma barrels are pretty good brass barrels and not some piece of aliminium pipe just cut off and shoved in a JBBG gun as for R-hop etc... - I'd just go to say a decent hop unit and maybe flat hop if you want but that is it tweak box a bit (tappet plate needs a little modding if replacing nozzle & another tappet plate) AoE - ooohhhh the review says what I did to her inside box....

Don't go too nutz making gun shoot faster without correcting AoE first your piston's inital pick up - large tooth at back will snap off trying to run faster n faster fit deans & improve hop/bucking for now later on you can open her up more, re-do seals , correct AoE etc..... I'd suggest staying with stock or thereabouts gearset or perhaps 16:1 to 14:1 almost deffo you need a new piston with 3 steel teeth if you decide to short stroke and use a slightly higher spring to get fps back up - say m120 & lose 2 teeth blah blah blah mosfet blah blah blah neodym motor blah blah blah rewire blah blah blah decide how fast you really want to go but would suggest being happy getting into 20's up to 25rps the faster you go the more likely feed issues will occur plus it will crap out faster from wear/heat etc..... (unless you walk on water with shimming & assembly which many including myself have so much to learn still) Do it in stages bit by bit is best advice, coz it most deffo not as easy to get everything running ultra sweet here's some dream dreading for ya: http://www.airsoftsociety.com/forums/f10/legacys-guide-building-high-speed-aeg-87504/ go slowly - stick to around 20 until you rip her open, 25rps & she may over run and double fire 30rps & stock springs can get close to Pre Engagement on m100 springs (this is where short stroking comes in but a LOT more work has to be checked n done to continue) Trust me I've smashed f*ck out of many boxes pushing them & something else WILL fail the faster you go so a mild tweak here n there to get you up to around 20 is plenty hey I'm a poet & I didn't even know it I like that - 20 is plenty

sigh welcome to forum but no offense please read: http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/17294-ians-guide-to-noobism-on-a-tight-budget/ http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/3581-new-and-looking-for-somewhere-to-play/ infact try this: http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/12854-new-player-guides-info/ 99% of info is in there - saves a lot of time and you will gain a wealth of knowledge from those excellent guides (written by much wiser people than me I might add) After that you you will have a much better idea about airsoft and toy guns etc.... welcome once again sir

Oh crap, it is a weird hop indeed http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/24153-we-mk17-scar-h/

Special mega likey button required Cheered me up no end

oooh ya cow not exactly fair to compare a £123 polymer Raider to a £200 ICS but suppose if G&G were really crap then FS wouldn't stock them good business sense to offer choices for customer (JBBG are experts at selling crap to kids n mugs like moi) All that I will say - don't buy a gun just on looks listen to advice or opinions but make up YOUR own mind in the end It is YOUR gun you are buying for YOURSELF not for OTHER PEOPLE Yes it is almost guaranteed the moment you buy your ultimate gun you will see another that takes your fancy - jeeez it is so addictive, just one more etc..... heck you may go in there looking for M4 and walk out with an AK instead (then go back for M4 later and come out with GBB pistol/G36/BFG etc....) Enjoy your visit to the airsoft candy shop - if you like it and are happy with it then that is what matters in the end happy shooting - whatever you own

Nerf or nothing for little 'un we have had some crazy fights around the house many years back when Mrs Duck was out got totally owned on the landing/stairs from the 2 eldest kids (not much changes - still getting owned by 12yr olds with JBBG guns) Sold them all when he took up airsoft but still finding them darts around the place - great fun

Always very wise if you can see it, hold a gun to get a real idea of it you must become one with your gun - uhhm ergh - yeah ok its just a bb toy gun but does help to make your mind up

It is all around that area - most likely after more screw ups and problems and balls ups and a number of WTF ???? I'm still breaking stuff and with each screw up I'm learning more - mainly the more factor more time more care more examination of pieces fitting together and working correctly as they should number of ways to investigate further - it should seal very well against piston inside cylinder but you could open box, remove piston/cylinder assembly replace tappet+nozzle, close box up for a sec with a few screws, pop finger in cylinder window push tappet nozzle home against box hop against box n blow - your finger should cover the nozzle so it should seal I mean this may not be the ultimate test but one of many ways to test it seals properly and this is with hop right up against box btw, if possible with 3rd hand see where you lose the seal by pulling hop forward... Why - coz often when inserting a mag it may pull/push the hop a smidge as mag settles in hop feed tube so if it shifts forward half a millimetre then the hop may not seal properly in use This is just a passing comment and not a full diagnostic of your possible problem but demostrates the "joy" of our poxy toys I feel your pain - we all do, but I know I'm learning more n more with every bastid pile of junk poxy lame ar$e piece of crap gun I break/fix Still so very much to learn - I'm no expert far far from but have quite a lot of experience in breaking guns (I just need the time n experience in fixing them properly)

Fire Support are the supreme dogs bollox for ICS guns n support other sites offer ICS sales and some spares but Fire Support are the ICS loving mofo's out there that will fully support your gun for service/parts A fair amount of ICS guns come with 2 x mags instead of just one (my clear M4A1 or W-42 Sportsline came with 2 mags) peq box is included probably coz it will require it (but description says front handguard ?) best thing to do is ask on here as well as google up more images or a video review or two of it or any gun you like the look of I haven't owned that model so can't really comment much more but ICS & fire support are reputable mofos

Perfectly normal The cycle has slightly over run a smidge The tappet plate starts to retract before the piston is drawn back and tappet releases in plenty of time with 4 teeth still to go on piston. Piston is released later when bb is loaded into hop/bucking and away the bb should fly. Soon afterwards the cutoff lever should kick in. Often though the cycle will over run a bit but bb is long gone. Nothing to worry about but you still have 40% of a revolution of sector as the piston releases before tappet plate pulls back again. (Long after bb has launched) DSG's have half that amount of time as everything is going nutz So I very much doubt if tappet is being jerked away from hop as piston releases. Check the full smooth movement of tappet and Max Stoke of it fully back to allow bb to feed and Max forward to seal against bucking. Worse case scenario is where your lips if bucking protrude a little to restrict easy bb entry into hop from feed tube, easy to think nozzle is at fault But as 2 hop units are having trouble I doubt that is a likely issue atm.... Quite likely some wear has taken place and tappet is not moving the full amount backwards/forwards Though forwards should still work correctly unless some crap has caught up at front of box stopping the full forward movement. Sometimes some tappet modding is required to allow Max possible total movement but before you go nutz you need to remove tappet spring and thoroughly check the tappet movement. Also place hop unit against box with tappet fully forward Blow down barrel, should seal lovely, pull hop a smidge away and see how much you can withdraw hop unit before seal is lost, hopefully a 1mm or so otherwise you are only just sealing and in use you will lose fps. For the record it would be a very lucky guess if anybody can 101%% accurately diagnose the fault straight away What YOU have to do is check EVERYTHING is operating smoothly and correctly deciding if a particular is worn or failing the tappet spring could be too light - but I can tell you to lop off a coil or two or replace the nozzle could be cracked or not seated correctly your bucking could be torn - hmm possible but you tried another hop/barrel with same results my present gut feeling is nozzle not aligned or sealing perfectly but also possible wear or tappet not moving correctly weird thing is it WAS ok but somehow something has gone right out of whack with a crunch tappet "may" have got damaged but it was piston skewed off rails, but guess the piston's pick up tooth could of caught and maybe got close rear of tappet plate ??? if you could perhaps take some pics of the internals then others may be able to check for possible issues that would be a wise thing to consider if still stumped - especially sometimes you can't see wood for the trees

If nozzle/tappet is travelling fully back n forth Correct nozzle length etc... Nothing out of ordinary or incorrect short stroke Check the tappet plate didn't get bored Make sure full Max movement back n forth All silky smooth And double check tappet and trigger springs fitted correctly If these are fitted incorrectly they can catch tappet plate sliding back n forth If all OK inside box then it looks to be nozzle not sealing with hop - numerous things, worn out of alignment etc.. The paper test on magwell is not a sure way of checking for airleaks in my book I have had paper stay put or move very little but still poor seals/fps Soz for bad grammar - fone is being a nob

Gearbox tightened up pissed to hop As it was tightened up the box tipped backwards The nozzle is now hitting the hop or not aligned 101% There is aa gap ciz nozzle not sealing Air pissing out = fps loss ??? That is my initial first stab You had a little hop problem before, quite likely it wasn't double feeding but 1 bb not firing correctly Another bb loads and then you see two fire Coz 1st one failed to fire previously 99% nozzle to hop related unless something worked in box

2 types of ak nozzle http://www.clandestineairsoft.com/nozzles-c-1_6_14/ useful bit of info on different nozzles might be a short ak if below 20mm (19.7 Vs 20.7mm aprox) better head, nozzle, o-ring on piston that will all help might be able to get some normal hop arm for hop to allow for various nubs should be a nice little gun to work on and the qucik change spring saves box exploding on ya too whilst working on her

I like the starter guns to mess about with I know a couple on here have the higher end ones but a fair amount of these have blowback on and they love them Personally I don't care for the blowback gimmick and some reports of the PBB boxes tend to fail or crack if pushed (the more stuff to go wrong n stuff plus the higher price is what puts me off the higher end G&G PBB boxes) The CM's & most are non blowback are what I like to mess around with (yes there are some PBB CM's about so be careful what you buy) In the past their mosfet's had a bad rep but the newer seems better (well couldn't get any worse than some bad batches) The CM's are as common as muck as other players may refer to them - or very popular if you are a G&G CM owner - the Fords of Airsoft but good decent starter guns IMHO only - much better than SRC and think the polymer receivers are better than ICS Sportsline guns plus G&G M4's offer you plenty of choice it is hard to pick just one - damn it (story of my life) They not perfect - I'll criticise various bits n bobs but they are a nice gun to work on yes motors are a little less oomph that maybe ICS, the bronzey bushings wear a bit too quick but overall they are very well built for the price Higher end stuff I can't see myself buying one new doubt if I really spend £300 for a gun off the shelf for a while tbh but that is just my take - plenty of people will buy TM Krytac WE or G&G TopTech etc.... I have mainly stuck to a £150 budget for any gun I've bought so far to me its a toy gun and I feel need to improve a bit to be worthy of a more expensive gun atm I can still blame "well c'mon its a starter gun" for my crappy skill or rather lack of it

you haven't said how old or if you got ukara etc..... if you have to start off with a 2-tone then Raider @ £123 is worth considering like I said you could get a higher end one in 2-tone and ahem customise or whatever but if 18+ and can get ukara then either hire or wait for ukara to obtain RIF A 2-tone Raider is one of the best/popular starter guns - remember to add in charger/battery/eyepro/bb's etc....th at £200 should just cover it all with say 2 x batteries charger n all the rest hiring could be best to test water but a few hires @ say £25 you could put that towards a starter obtain ukara if possible - flogg raider, you won't lose £75 on it or keep as spare there is no gospel of what n what not to do (well yeah avoid bb named sites) it is up to you but please read up a bit, the guides offer great advice - wish I found this place before I got mugged by JambWow but hey ho - live n learn, just try not to make same mistakes as I & a few others have done

yeah man - I got 1 o dem sik B500A1's I totally own my local field - all my m8s are gonna get 'em JBBG - best pro shop evaaaaaaahhhhhh

Really really daft and very very silly questions..... Are you 18+ Do you have defense/ukara or at very very least know somebody that can "gift" you RIF No offense but sounds a tiny bit like you don't know your ar$e from ya elbow on airsoft (don't take offense - I still get confused but I blame that on dementia - damn it what was I saying ????) Value for money but not complete crap usually 2 letters G and G (cue the TriggerHappy jibes) If you are starting out many say a decent-ish starter gun can be had for around £150 give or take £25 Carbine ain't worth getting over a Raider imho as Raider has rails for £6 more ICS are good but their lower end stuff isn't as diverse as G&G's In fact though higher end £250+ G&G's are thought to be better - I personally rather upgrade a G&G CM or buy a higher end M4 DO NOT BUY A GUN FROM ANY SITE WITH BB IN ITS NAME £100 or less guns are $hite and many have wasted time n money trying to scrimp too low grab a £80 gun from JBBG and will learn the hard way how $hit it is (plus they lie/not truely honest in their descriptions too - plastic gearbox/receiver - my feathery ar$e) FANTASTIC = bollox QUALITY = $hite FULL METAL - plastic and brittle plastic at that I could go on but think you are getting the idea and no I don't run with high end stuff at all but still cheapo stuff - but better cheapo stuff most of the time it is the player not gun that wins games - but doesn't mean a jbbg gun (I might be magic but I ain't a f*ckin' magician) a good decent starter like what we have said will do ya proud

May contain nuts though if collected from woodland sites

Easy there - these are REAL toy guns I tell my other half

G&G SR-? range is getting good reviews revamped CM receiver with a 3rnd burst mosfet in there (still polymer receiver but without the vivid CM logo) a lot of places have sold out due to popularity and the new range being launched (think this was the 2nd shipment most places got in at Z1 LWA etc.... - these normally get the first batches of G&G's) but a lot of places have also sold out it seems eg: airsoftworld.net and others. I'd maybe get skirmishing and hire until you get ukara'd if you are 18+ yes you can get a 2-tone but that to me is ok on a budget CM Raider say but if you are buying a nicer looking gun it would be wise to get it as a RIF once you are ukara'd than try to mess about removing 2-tone etc..... by then they will be in stock and be a lovely starter RIF to run with

reading the review think they are 8mm bushings the hop is ak type but nub is built into arm ??? might be able to partially replace bits of it - arm to accept a normal seperate nub but think the hop is adjustable from both sides unlike ak one just right side first uar's had battery up front when they first came out but later changed to rear wired plastic spring guide should be ok as long as you don't run crazy springs (might be able to fit a ver 3 with the "lugs" cut down to clear/enter box but you need to turn/lock guide into place under spring tension) if you bought the broken one this week that wasn't a bad buy with all them mags magwell is short n stubby and don't like the normal mags - even magwell mod can be tricky as the mags have less magwell walls supporting them but if you did get that one on here it is worth it with all them mags (was looking but gotta stop buying & get fixing guns - lol) nice gun - little qwerky but a nice change from the usual everybody hasthat "m4 ak g36 mp5" club

spring guide - very likely bespoke cylinder head - normal v2/3 head double o-ring should be fine but not the mega long ak or g36 type suggest a better plastic pom/nylon piston head if wanting to go faster or maybe a double o-ring ali one - but this would be the only ali one I'd use (make absolute sure you use loctite thread lock of piston bearing - often I don't fit them myself but if you do threadlock or it WILL come undone) piston - anything will do if stock piston is looking chewed up could go for an all metal rack plastic piston coz the uar is not a very very quick firing gun in its standard form more detailed stuff here: http://www.booliganairsoft.com/2013/03/aps-uar-urban-assault-rifle-aeg.html