Sitting Duck

yup some boxes have more allowances at back on full compression plus bearing spring guides & bearing pistons can add 5mm extra tension each from bearing The joys of shortstroking can overcome this on hotter springs to bring down higher fps but I ballsed that up first time also coz I went with conflicting guides saying from start or some said end of sector I went with last teeth on piston - correct and last teeth on sector as it sounded about right - WRONG it balls up the tappet timings shortstroking is done from removing the same off back of piston (leaving at least 1 metal tooth of course) and same amount of teeth of START or beginning of sector gear Personally think a bit of MadBull stuff is not quite as good as people think often there are very good and cheaper alternatives out there (a lot of people over at Z1 seem to love them but when I tried one it kept jammimg on a 510mm one) zci barrels I'm impressed with for value for money still trying out numerous cheaper pistons - I avoid shs blue 3 steel teeth - too soft and plastic teeth shred easy on higher speed builds thought they was perfect - really light and seem to run well but when pushed on the 3 steel pistons it just stripped quickly ACM grey 3 & 7 steel tooth cheapo pistons seem to be holding quite well in 25 - 33 rps builds so far but still early days not got around to using a really nice ASG/Ultimate piston but it is a bit heavy so maybe for a dmr build than high rof yup learning from our mistakes is one of best ways to learn - providing they don't cost us too much grief in the long run

shimming needs a smidge of side to side play or the gears will bind/snag getting them placed correctly takes time/patience and everybox is a little different to others had a mp5 that still sounded like 2 cats killing each other in there no matter what I did it is still a little smidge schreechy in my book but deffo got some play and now using a lightly used G&G gear set in there I'm still learning new crap on every box my first few builds had the bevel gear a bit too low - spun lovely but when motor wound in it was forcing bevel real tight against the bush/bearing on top not quite schreechy but motor/wire everything was getting warm-hot quickly from strain read this - a lot of info there and you don't need to go nutz to get you gun running a bit faster http://www.airsoftsociety.com/forums/f10/legacys-guide-building-high-speed-aeg-87504/ forget the really silly stuff, stick between 20 to 30rps, your gun just dies quicker or wears out faster above 25rps you will need to shortstroke - again I screwed that up first time round too so like a lot of things go easy at first - most good builds and by that I mean the quality not speed most good builds are 25% decent - not awesome high priced parts and the rest is 75% attention to detail how well they fit together - often a bit of file/sandpaper etc.... youtube is good for some stuff but some videos are guys just taking apart a nicely built box and putting it back with parts known to work some of youtube you wonder if their results are really that good or genuinely that fps/rof on that weight of bb or voltage ? like many things - you can read & watch loads but in the end you gotta take off the stabilisers, roll ya sleeves up and just go for it you will screw up but you will learn from your mistakes and nothing is that boned or you just get another box if you can solder, then you can knock up your own 3034 mosfet, or buy a £10 FireStorm one if you get into 20's rps that is very good steady build for many first few builds - seeing that a little work reaps good improvements again for little money n time. Kudos for having a go, double kudos of knowing to get it sorted and try again next time is why I buy the cheaper stuff up to £150 - push it - break it - fix it or leave it until I have gained the experience to fix it (I have a few spare guns and that is all I will say - most work fine coz I haven't killed them all yet) no worries - we are all still learning and I have broken my fair share sir - hence I have a good box of spares (boned boxes)

where the hell have you been ??? glad to see you return hope all is ok

Nobody will be able to tell ya that answer - not even yoda average "may" be 330-340 on 0.20's so expect "around" the 300 mark on 0.25's but every gun will be different - even 2 guns the exact same can vary a little to a bit more end of the day - just ask the site before you sign in can you chrono it first - which usually done on 0.20's (I did the exact same thing coz one of mine was right on the 350 limit last week and they was fine with me chrono first & then sign in) soz I can't offer any more advice or guarantee - but hopefully it should stay under unless it was a hot imported model the UK retailer should of checked and brought it down if needed if it was running on higher US fps limit only one way to really know for sure - run it through your site's chrono first on 0.20's (don't try to scrape under chrono with heavier bb's - they can check by speed loading a few 0.20's in the mags)

If me n mrs split up I'm just gonna get my own boob job (see if it can fit a couple of small hpa tanks in there to use as akimbo secondary's) Whhooiaaaaaaa - f*ck me now this thread has got ugly with b1n0gHo5t's latest pic ..b

G&G's use conventional gears in the bespoke box other m14's use the special gears - think the spur/middle gear is the main difference in some like cyma 032's n others often these have the longer stroke cylinders/pistons to allow for more air on 550-570 barrels but also other bits like hop units are not so easy to come by or obtain as easily as the boring m4 or ak's with all the numerous variations on some of the m14 models when I looked into them I thought yeah I think I'll wait a while longer to see if I really need one as much as I think I might do and so due to the internal parts being like a lottery (yes you can always buy a G&G with G&G parts) I thought - nah, will leave it a while longer and stick to the normal stuff for now

Not trying to be a mum or referee here chaps but often me & Lozart have not quite seen exactly eye to eye sometimes mine and/or his posts could be interpreted two ways (and yes I will admit once or twice I could of - well have take it perhaps the wrong way at first) All said n done I'm the first and probably my own worst critic - I'll often play the dumb a$$ fool and get in to take a pop at myself before anybody else does.... I try not to take life too seriously, death is much more serious on the other hand I have options to accept comments and not take them too seriously I could reply with a bit of wit or accept them as a light hearted jest Or I can take them seriously - we all face choices like this in life again n again The trouble is often a light hearted joke or jest is very often at somebody's expense edit - removed the stuff I am worrying about atm

mellow chaps........ it will always be like that, they don't get us men and we certainly will never understand women dunno why our setup works so far for so long when many other couples have split up I work nights during the week so the only time we get pissed off with each other is at weekends during the week we got the perfect marriage we don't see each other much so we don't argue really it is just the weekends for some reason we piss each other off ???

sounds about right except I think snipers - bolt action go to 500fps but often aeg dmr's go to 425-450fps I think is my local rules (higher figure 450 think they allow if they trust you to know what a true 30m med is) that said 425 is only 75 over so I feel many could just get their normal aeg running as accurate as they can get (within sensible reason rather than spend $hitloads to gain a few metres for much more money) get ya gun running well increase the range and tighten groupings - then FULL AUTO THE F*CKERS !!!!! one of them should get the message across rather than eventually make a slightly longer greater shot then see it brushed off by some cheating mofo well that is my take on dmr's but maybe I might get a m14 one day or something as some places won't accept a CM M4 can be classed as a true dmr (its a toy gun ffs - but again it is just my opinion if they won't allow me to use a 450fps b500a1)

Also is same address as OnlyBBGuns 17 Willow Road - Slough iwholesales wanted my inside leg measurement as they don't sell to individuals etc (jeez amount of crap I've bought thought they would want to do business but wtf) spoke to a chap at Only about a RIF as Only do 2-tone - are they ukara retailer ??? and that was a major ball ache and little email response on that enquiry about face to face purchase of RIF So yeah a bit of a weird setup or connection to other companies BUT out of the 3 " BB " sites I do actually still rate Only as the better one still have to be careful about what you buy - there is still some crap on there and from experience forget trying to buy a RIF off them - 2-tone yeah not bad but forget RIF but weird - iwholesales will set you up an account maybe and sell you RIF's OnlyBBGuns sell only 2-tone stuff - no mention of UKARA I think ahhh forget it - I just carry on buying in bulk then

G36c - they are plastic/polymer in real life anyway A lot of good starter airsoft guns are plastic - best ones being G&G's M4's (they just seem beter quality/robust plastic guns than some other more brittle plastic) I actually like many "plastic" guns - have a full metal 416 amongst others but the 416 is weighty (deffo need a sling for all day shooting) the makes I said earlier Cyma JG & G&G do make decent value for money starter guns (some really really cheap makes of cyma & jg do exist that are real cheap $hite but most places don't stock them at all they are really that bad) either get a 2-tone gun probably from UK supplier, or rent a gun at 1 site a few times to obtain ukara then buy a black RIF. If you attempt to import a RIF from overseas without ukara defense then two things may happen 1 - it may not get sent until proof of defense is supplied. Many places are wary about sending them without defense as they can be seized/destroyed and customer hassle of claiming money back etc...... 2 - even if they do send it, and some places may offer to send a RIF in two parts in an attempt to get around this if one let alone 2 x parcels get stopped by customs you will get screwed over by Custom charges and Royal Mail admin fee (if both parts get stopped it will be a very expensive gun indeed) find a site, perhaps rent to obtain ukara or get a decent 2-tone IF is what many do but get a decent one then keep as a spare or sell it for say 2/3rd's of what you paid and will work out the same as hiring x 3 for ukara up to you but read up on ian's guide to noobism http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/17294-ians-guide-to-noobism-on-a-tight-budget/

aye but if ya think that is bad - wait until you got kids.... I was the last of 4 boys but my mum always said: "if you had of been the first - you would of been the last" (cheers mum) test it out a bit on a variety of bb's brands & weights - not just mess about coz the first lot of .25's or .30's shoot a bit weird Avoid FireBall 0.25's - these mofo's 1 in about 6 shoot pi$$ed or fall well short - "Jimmy's" as my son calls them think they a friggin' egg shaped or something - probably get better results shooting dried peas or something than those poxy things

cheap gas pistol - 2-tone in UK http://www.onlybbguns.co.uk/bb-guns/gas-bb-guns/hg-104-m92f-beretta-hfc-hg-104-m92-gas-pistol.html#.VbJZe7Xp8i4 use RC10 and 10% off might still work there are other models but tread with great caution - get another mag and some gas not a £100 to £150 super blowback pistol but if/when it busts (often mag leaks) then repair/replace or chuck it in bin - good value for under £30 to get ya feet wet In general this is the slightly better of the 3 bb sites but still a LOT of crap on there - so don't just buy any old crap proper gun/rifle - JG G36c, Cyma AK or G&G M4 is what you should go for as primary

yes very common to put down stuff like a $3 toy trust me I have been on opposite end of this with importing rare gaming consoles from US & Japan If they don't see any real value of goods they will take the insured value limit as to final amount PLUS SHIPPING FEES !!!! now if a console is worth say $200 but the sender has insured it in the couriers price band of up to $400 + another 45 shipping so Customs take the item as nearly $450 - £300 value and slap on 17.5% VAT at the time + RM pay this on HM behalf then they whack on a f*cking admin fee on top that leaves this duck with £80 bill or I ain't getting my $200 or £140 console ffs ah well what you need to do is write to HM Customs with invoice from sender and a note from sender explaining blah blah blah Oh btw sir you got like 14 days to pay this £80 or we are sending it back to say those robbing mofo's have you but the short n curley's is a massive understatement as I am mugged by RM & HM customs The above is the worst one to date but after that I reduced the urge to import rare crap over the pond I absolutely hate them - the £28 import allowance has not or hardly risen in the last friggin' 20 years either ffs a f*cking con is what it all is and still gets my back up thinking back to them bastids having me over a barrel I did get my chance to tell them to poke it some years later.... bought a few old pcb boards from states with a very good expensive lcd chip on there was gonna rip old chip off to mount/use in a picaxe project I was thinking of doing..... all in it was a crazy price fleabay win of under a tenner... RM sends me a letter saying £32 please.... F*ck off its only £9.27 all inc delivery me thinks over the next week or so I got a few more reminders or we are returning to sender post it into outer space for all I care - you are not getting any more money out of me on that one mofo's so yeah lost a tenner but sod was I gonna give them tossers any more money - GGGGrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr In my experience - buying from US has a higher chance of it being stopped from HongKong it is about 50/50 depending on size of parcel Hence I'm buying my own vault of crap from EU before we pull out FTW - and I don't mean "for the win"

every gun is different - even two exact same models same as two brand new cars - one is sweet & other is a lemon there comes a point that if you get it all running quite well then leave it until it loses performance (if it ain't broke or bollox'd then don't try to fix or tweak it further - note to myself perhaps) as it is - shooting well try heavier bb's and see how it goes do not rip her apart - it could be down to a duff batch of 0.25's (i got some 0.25's that are just pure unreliable $hit in every gun I tried - gonna use only for pistol ammo) so by all means try a few weights/brands but reflect on results before ripping her apart - only tweak of hop should be needed but finally - end of day, know your gun - learn its range/limit then use the gun within its limits and you will be more successful when you engage in a fire fight outside of this and you are just wasting time/ammo taking on snipers or much higher end guns which quite likely a few of their upgrades could be more than the original cost of your gun (just putting it into context) classic example of no two guns are same: got 2 x cm028a AK47's cheapo but good cheapo's one out the box - no barrel cleaning just pick up n shoot - hits an aerosol can at 80ft 1 or 2 out of 5 shots second one - 4 out of 5 shots repeat test - yup 2nd ak is deffo a bit better so I ain't messing with that mofo for now true or nigh on true 80ft measured with size 9 boots pigeon steps rather than say 80ft = 50ft in real terms

.25's at least but we all have to experiment with each gun and see what shoots best some bb's are better/worse than others in some guns but not the same results in other gun .25's maybe .30's if results work or may have to settle for .25's or maybe 0.28's perhaps all depends on your own gun and also what you can get hold of easily too

your piston I think is full metal - presume you did aoe your gears are 13:1 you motor is high speed shs perhaps ??? now if you got that stuff all fitted together correctly you could hit 30rps with a full metal tooth piston there is no weak point to shred off plastic teeth So if Pre Engagement starts to occur - which I reckon at 30rps it could your box will either: smash f*ck out of everything - or blow the fuse if using a m90 or m100 spring then it is very likely to get to 30rps or quite near @ say 25 to 27rps but bear in mind the speed motors from shs do cycle a smidge faster than the fast torque motors so think 27rps is possible without needing thick mofo wires in there (this may be reduced if still using small tamiya and no fet etc.... but still that build is a quick build even with 7.4v) My guess if the above is not applying just yet is bevel gear shimmed too low, piston binding in box or something else putting extra strain on motor to blow fuse..... if this was your first build then I would suggest you put back the stock gears and get her running ok again then later on if you want to go quicker read up a bit on mosfet rewire deans and shortstroking perhaps 13:1 gears can make a gun cycle very quickly and over 25rps she can start to double fire... and past this on a full stroke piston and m90/100 springs you can get PE do builds/upgrades in stages - faster builds need a little more thought rather than just drop this n that go faster stuff in there I know this as I have boned numerous guns by going mental without doing my homework properly and pushing boxes too fast - way too fast many many times (plus first builds I did were a disaster as well - still learning btw)

a funny quote a while back about women..... Capital Radio London famous "Dave from Epsom" Women - I just don't get them... I go out on a Friday night, come home on the Sunday and somebody has given her the right hump I'm left thinking - Well it can't have been me, I ain't been here !!!! pure brilliance - but I wouldn't go to him for relationship advice

first thing I do now is check nozzle actually fits the hop unit sounds daft but some shs m4 red nozzles can be a smidge tight fir in G&G stock hop check hop unit is sealing in hop - just them 2 items first you should be able to feel the seal blowing down barrel with a ultra light press on nozzle in hop next when you are starting to redo the box with tappet+nozzle in there insert hop unit up against box correctly like it normally would in gun - check seal again seal is crap it "may" indicate front of tappet could be shaved or sanded down a tiny slither thus pushing the nozzle a tiny bit more foward to seal against hop bucking other checks include with tappet/nozzle fully retracted ensure the nozzle is clear of hop feed tube so bb can enter ok if not then additional work required to allow nozzle to travel back a smidge further this is bit more involved as you need to check the sector's cam can pull back the tappet a little more if not then the hop can be pushed forward with some electrician's tape on front of box to ensure the nozzle clears for bb to enter but this would lessen the final seal against hop bucking so you need to check how much you can push tappet forward basically the tappet/nozzle moves aprox 8mm or 9mm or so in total what you are trying to achieve is getting that "window" of movement in the exact perfect position to allow bb's to feed easily and also to seal perfectly against bucking..... A piece of cake it sounds but unfortunately so many smidges of variations occur between various parts fitting together properly small variations in nozzle lengths, tight fit in some hops, different hops can make a huge difference sitting either side of "window" even down to the tappet plate's ridge where nozzle clips in - some have ridge in centre, others a tiny bit forward/backwards. Oh yes it is a major bollock ache sometimes but it is where taking a bit more time checking everything bit by bit really pays off the 416 was a major headache and a big learning curve getting that sod to work properly - but now is running very nicely (jeez bet she busts now I said that, but so far it is perhaps one of my best builds to date) on average a box rebuilt every 3 or 4 weeks and still I'm learning more n more n more with every box is why I say 25% good parts & 75% care & attention to detail is what works for me atm, - so far anyway always check and double check stuff before you pick up the file or dremmel or piece of sandpaper but as of yet I haven't need to file nozzle but instead check & "adjust" the tappet movement/travel

it is - thankfully I don't own one but hop is adjusted on left side on the exterior I think no need to drop dust cover like on other regular M4's (even bull$hit b500a1 has a sort of normal hop) no offense but the black viper's m4 are the worst of the worst plinkers AK12 can be made into a usable unique AK12 - still snap into two if hit against tree but good for show G36 - is a clear Well D68 plinker than could take a normal box as like the AK12 it seems to have a normal type hop Alas - the M4 black viper does not appear to have a regular hop in there most likely the mags are different to match the shorter hop feed tube the possible cure is to see if the bespoke or rather odd hop unit could be replaced but being the gun is screwed together in two halves it would be a ball ache to remove barrel/hop (on normal M4's - 1 pin usually and top half comes away to gain easy access to hop/barrel etc..) Any major work will involve a strip down of two halves and you will still have a poor crappy plastic geared gearbox that WILL shred over time I'm afraid maybe there might be a way to fix a small & large tube together to effectively extend the hop feed tube a tiny bit modding the magazine's catch "window" could be an option but given the fact it is a BBG4Less plinker - and not a good one at that try to locate the bespoke mag and use it until it dies..... in the meantime - save up any money you might be thinking of spending and put it towards a better proper M4 (do not buy another gun from any site with BB in its name is a rough rule of thumb) soz - but if it helps myself and many others made the mistake of buying cheap crappy pi$$ poor plinkers from BB sites so you ain't the first to find out the hard way - nor will you be the last I wish I could offer you better advice/solution

aye - Mrs Duck puts up a lot with my saddo hobbies suppose their must be a lot to be said for saying - opposites attract she is sensible I guess, think the only real error she has made was marrying me I keep telling her how lucky she is - one day she might just start to believe it - maybe

More than 10 & less than 100 (I think but stopped counting months ago) That is all I'm prepared to say on the matter

You lot are sad.... Me on the other hand, I'm f*cking miserable Playing toy soldiers ??? I am reenacting famous strategic and tactical battles Yeah OK I'm playing toy soldiers

So the short answer is ???? Probably ok to obtain a RIF with ukara/defense as it is likely to not be classed as firearm putting it into context of a sort - so what ??? he could still get ukara'd and the chance of him being raided stuff confiscated suppose any of us may have that risk even with a defense if a few neighbours start making bull$hit allegations I was tearing up the community shooting cats kids & cars etc.... jeeeez - maybe if he got sent down for armed robbery, GBH etc.... I could perhaps get my head around it more seek clarification is best advice but really can't see it being a lifetime ban on toy guns The world can be a daft place - ban on firearms - but bet some violent people can still buy a carving knife set from Argos ffs

yeah that is gonna be a bit of bitch for cqb - should just stick to shotgun long mofo to say the least - look out for the cocking aid unless you are into pinky finger building