Sitting Duck

The cylinder head itself is not the length problem perhaps.... A G36 cylinder head has a longer spout but often can't be used as shorter M4 & AK nozzles "bottom out" on nozzle tube on head What I'm trying to say is the nozzle hasn't travelled far enough into the hop at rest A cylinder head with long/short nozzle tube won't matter atm coz if nozzle tube was too short it would fall off yes a longer nozzle may need a longer nozzle tube on cylinder head for stability but in itself it wouldn't restrict the nozzle travel at rest The nozzle may be catching on hop unit - a large/fat nozzle may not fit inside the hop unit correctly a too tight fitting nozzle may be catching as it enters the hop unit..... easy check - remove nozzle and see if it enters the hop unit fully and seals against bucking (nozzle inserted with finger holding nozzle in place - blow down barrel = airtight seal) if you feel the nozzle dragging/binding that may need investigating (some nozzles - SHS red M4 nozzle can be a smidge tight fitting in G&G hops, can bind and a red mark appears quickly in hop's nozzle end) So check the nozzle - and any nozzle slips back n forth in the hop unit if it binds or catches on hop - sometimes the the thicker end of nozzle catches in hop - stopping nozzle entering hop fully OK once this is checked an ruled out/fixed nozzle back in gearbox - either complete gearbox or right side of case removed.... nozzle fully forward at rest = max nozzle smacked up against the fron of gearbox.... place hop unit up against gearbox - the nozzle has gotta seal against bucking.... how the nozzle is still failing to travel say 3 or 4mm short is unclear to me..... if it is only half way in hop unit's feed tube is beyond bizzare unless the nozzle has started to retract again which it does when firing on semi's cut off position - it shouldn't in theory but in practice it does as box slightly "over runs" a little Thus when it finishes after a single shot on semi - the nozzle has just started to retract again so it may seem like it is stopping short Phew all that crap is confusing to me but hopefully you get what I'm trying to say - the nozzle might have started to pull back 3mm and so it "looks" like it is stopping short, when in fact it might not be and retracting once again..... Yes it seems like the AK might use longer AK nozzle but that is only 1mm longer not 3mm difference so investigate the nozzle's proper full travel - paying real attention to the proper fully forward/resting position and also check how the nozzle slips into the hop in case it is too tight/binding And yes - it is all a major bollock ache checking n double checking stuff but it really has to be done with every single part a tiny difference or minor misalignment will through out by loads or fail to operate correctly Any part changed needs to be fully compared with the part that is replaced at every stage chuck more n more new parts and if there is any slight difference - just nozzles - length too short or binding in hop creates mega grief add in a few more bits n bobs - tight piston fit inside box, bad seals, hop bucking lip catching on bb's and creating feed problems Oh yes so many bits not quite working correctly together 101% = a weekend of aeg headache's So to check EVERYTHING is working as 101% best and as smoothly as possible takes more just a quick couple of hours of slappin this n that in there Soz for ultra mega War n Peace post - but you need to REALLY check a few more things out first before jumping in and ordering more stuff You should have say 8mm or so nozzle movement, that should be fine for bb to enter and nozzle to seal into bucking if not something ain't right or hop isn't seating correctly to gearbox/nozzle It is difficult for any of us to see what is front of you - hence trying to ultra detail stuff you need to check out first pics will help though I doubt if any wrong parts have been fitted by previous owner but you never know with some people so thorough checks will need to be done for everything until the main problem(s) are indentified

Actually needs to move about 8mm, 6mm bb + a smidge either way to enter easily and to shove it into hop Tappet plate n nozzle has to move to very front of box and all the way back to cylinder head or nigh on This should be the usual aprox 8mm movement Remove tappet spring and rotate sector gear to check how the tappet moves back n forth. Check for any snagging or broken bits or wear or bent tappet plate etc.... Strongly advise open up box Do loads of close up examination of tappet moving Take a few good pics too to show what is going on I'm no expert especially on v3's But sounds like something broke/worn or worse previous owner may badly fitted something Heck even a v2 tappet into a v3 or something daft But you are making progress yourself in identifying a too small movement in tappet perhaps Get some pics up first before fitting any new bits As present parts may not be worn badly or heck They might be the wrong parts or fitted badly At some point you may need to fit a new nozzle with o-ring for better seal But the tappet movement sounds wrong and needs thorough investigation atm When you have checked it all out you might need a tappet plate so you can add a nozzle maybe at same time, but for now check out everything is as it should be

Great just great....NOW you tell us !!!!! too late for me I think

did you use voucher " RC10 " to give ya 10% off ???

indeed - to each their own a little personal touch some may like & why not its their gun to do what they like sometimes repainting them can make them look silly me - I like to leave looking as they arrived....... http://www.evike.com/product_info.php?products_id=43136&fb_comment_id=649605158387519_908112552536777 that orange flash hider has just ruined it for me

true - some sites may frown upon it seeing it as a bit noobish got this - alas out of stock: http://www.patrolbase.co.uk/airsoft/replica-m416-box-high-cap-type-5000-round-magazine-black.htm#.VeWGJX3p8i4 it is the manual winding version so it ain't mega overkill like auto-winding version it comes out for games like "Closest to the Flag" - a complete hose fest where most people are out of ammo and the last few minutes its just mental as everybody just goes for it in the dying seconds of the game many are just dry firing by that time etc...... yup is a bit noobish to use for other game types where a couple of high caps will suffice plus it weighs a bit too - so hope ya mag catch is pretty strong probably sprays about 50 or so shots before it needs winding - usually I just grab it when I'm testing/chrono a gun as it always has 0.20's in it and can feed quite well in higher rof guns Head Marshal shook his head at first but now most peeps know it is just for $hits n giggles on that game but he even borrowed a DSG Firehawk to hit test a player with it - yup they called it after that As I said it depends a bit on the site - mine is a not so ultra serious site - still a safe place but a little relaxed cheap n cheerful place Doubt if I'd ever take to Sandpit or Mall on a normal aeg, good for a laugh and ask ya site if they would recognise it being ok probably be ok with a 1k or maybe 2.5k electric drum, electric 5k is mega overkill for use in all game types though

capacity wise in crane stock tubes....... you will be a little limited depending on space available as I said some guns/stock tubes are bigger/smaller than others G&G Raider is more like a max 18mm diameter x 125mm in its crane stock Cyma & D-Boys M4 seem to be able to take up to a max of 21mm or 22mm diameter MP5k's are the worst - take a single stick type battery and even 18mm diameter is a tight fit Nothing worse than buying a battery that just don't fit & even when I thought I measured it all correctly - I still got it wrong In theory you should be able to fit in say 1400mah twin stick 7.4v lipo about a 20c http://www.componentshop.co.uk/7-4v-2000mah-20c-continuous-discharge-airsoft-lipo-split-pack.html This should - and I say "should" fit but is a little pricey compared to say a block battery which would be half that price but anything "AIRSOFT" will cost a bit if using the more unique or bespoke type batteries due to space another couple of options: http://hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=44774 only 1200mah but you can fit one in each tube and swap over out in field or wire them in parallel NOT SERIES coz that doubles up the volts to 14.8v So 2 x 1200mah in parallel will give you 2400mah Actually is not quite as good as a single 2400mah battery as the 2 x lipo's or 4 cells involved may discharge differently but a possible option to consider all the same Another option is fit a fixed M4 Stock - either long or stubby stock and use the block type batteries a Imax B3 charger is a basic easy to use lipo charger that can be bought for about £10+ there are some clones about - so try to buy any cheap charger from a reliable UK seller than from Hong Kong There is the B6 charger which is far more advanced and can charge batteries at a faster rate but a tiny bit more bells n whistles to use cheaper types are out there but a B3 is a simple cheap easy to use charger or go for the B6 if you really get into it All lipo chargers are smart chargers - but still need to keep eye on any battery charging Though they should stop charging - it is still wise to monitor any charger (a watched pot never boils - or battery explodes) This is just a rough guide to lipo batteries and like I said size measurements etc... must be checked by YOU before jumping in and buying a few - finding out later they are 1mm too tight to fit in

big drum mag - sod any pouches for mags man up and run a naked loadout to always feel & call your hits soz being silly - ignore this post as it may contain nuts

£300 ??? I know it its worth a lot more could say £250 but is kinda taking the pi$$ a bit if he wants rid of it quickly and holds little value for most stuff in his very well provided world of his you don't ask you don't get as they say

7.4v is the wise option a B3 type charger will have a mains lead and is a good starter lipo smart charger what you need to ensure is your crane stock's tube size/diameter usually the tubes in the stock will be about 18mm - "maybe" a bit more like 21mm but you need to really check as crane stocks & their capacity/diameter can vary G&G ones are very thin - so make up something - maybe a magic marker or felt tip pen or roll up a bit of paper/card tube and see how it fits in there YOU must check all stuff BEFORE you order the wrong stuff too big length of battery should be ABOUT 125mm max - this is a rough guess btw so please check

Thought Stti were SRC which gets rebranded to HFC and so on & so on.... (well going by the GC (co2) & GG (green gas) 104 & 105's) which TWG will be restocking these soon and their cheap Green Gas mags £13:46 gun & mags about £7:28 http://www.taiwangun.com/en/gas-guns/m92f-m9-heavy-weight-gas-pistol-replica-stti?from=listing&campaign-id=19 http://www.taiwangun.com/en/gas-guns/m92f-m9-vertical-heavy-weight-gas-pistol-stti?from=listing&campaign-id=19 http://www.taiwangun.com/en/gas-pistol-magazines/m9-magazine-stti?from=related&campaign-id=6 OP needs to very closely compare mags in great detail but they might work just remember seeing on airsoft cz site something abould old & newer stti models also some kjw mags "may" be different the blowback mags are deffo different but like I said pay close attention before ordering one heck tbh - wait a week or so when they come in.... order a gun & a couple of mags - less than £30 for gun with a total of 3 mags if they work in the OP's gun great he can have a spare mag or two or if not then at least he has a cheap non blowback pistol with extra mags (better than buying just a couple of mags and they not fit - £6 more and get gun with mag - bargain)

it is something like the stti or KJ Monty posted... they are ever so slightly different to pic under barrel/rail but nigh on same meat different gravy.... what you need to do is take close ups of mags from a few angles coz the lips n stuff are a tad different on some m92 mags

Early Stti SRC HFC m92 non blowback star on mag sounds about right later became the GG104 & GG105 (no thread on later models) that is my guess an early SRC or rebrand m92 ahh sod it I was close - this might be nearly the exact type or model: http://airsoftshop.cz/product_info.php/cPath/385_386/products_id/2051 but if ain't 101% exact look through this list and see what else it might be: http://airsoftshop.cz/index.php/cPath/385_386 Damn it I need to get out more

http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/17294-ians-guide-to-noobism-on-a-tight-budget/ welcome to forum maybe G&G Raider @ £123 with free 2-tone at Zero One atm due to big airsoft event their site/orders are on hold until another week I think A lot of stuff goes out of stock as the "good weather" - pah pi$$ing down with rain and summer holidays with new younger players getting into it stocks will arrive soon but do NOT look at any site with BB in its name - their guns are $HIT and you will regret it - many including myself got taken in thinking their £100 or less guns are good value (they are crap compared to G&G, Cyma, JG, ICS etc....)

Maybe componentshop - Google is ya friend They got lipo's all ready and good service too

Charger is fine head over to hobby king Battery locator type in dimensions of battery Buy from UK or Europe not International Hong Kong Maybe a Zippy Compact 25c BUT comes with Wrong connectors ATM you have small tamiya on gun so you need to ensure you get battery with small tamiya or change connectors - yeah you can look into that stuff later But a quick rough rundown on what battery specs n crap

B3 charger maybe or b6 lipo chargers Get yaself to component shop or hobby king for batteries 7.4v lipo 20c to 25c burst value is what ya want Don't rush n buy with out checking size dimensions

Only reason for no G&G is coz they don't sell G&G at TaiwanGun otherwise....... G&G G&G G&G G&G G&G G&G

mag "might be ok" - some g36's like suppose all guns can work great/crap with certain mags or certain mags work in some guns but $hite in others look at a d-boys MID CAP review: http://gunfire.pl/product-eng-1152194528-Mid-Cap-magazine-for-G36-type-replicas.html mid cap seems ok in JG G36 on there....... you gone for longer G36, but remember to state clearly for them to DOWNGRADE spring (they have been know to forget/miss out so state it very clearly) your order - first order may sit for a while as they will run some checks n stuff in case of paypal or chargebacks GET YOUR ARSE TOGETHER THOUGH Today is I think last day of 10yr celebration - in a nutshell it means 150 Euro for free shipping - usually 300 Euro free ship plus spend 200 Euro n get a back packy fall apart bag for 1 euro cent - robbing bastids said it was free - I want my 1c refund drop battery ffs - it comes with a $hit nimah n even $hittier charger - dump them get a good lipo battery n charger - lucky coz you can use "block" type batteries which in lipo terms means cheaper RC block lipo's than airsoft nunchuck lipo's but move your arse for free shipping n bag stuff mag "should" be worth a gamble - but drop the battery for sure (if spending money on batteries n stuff just go lipo) maybe grab a bag of bb's than a poxy nimah battery usually ya local site sells half decent bb's - but maybe grab a bag of 0.20's from TWG to get ya going for now

I'm that sad this stuff is my new life - everything else is fitting around me seriously - as the world is 25hrs & 8 days a week many of us are finding jobs are not always the 9-5 anymore I've worked nights for 20 -25yrs and the "extra" for unsociable hours has fallen over the last 10yrs overtime & the Sunday "double bubble" is history in many places as companies try to remain competitive (or shaft the workers - depends which way you look at it) Double Day shifts - have now given in to Continental Shifts - that is often brought in and sold to unsuspecting workforce only later they realise they are working every other Saturday for flat rate & most never realised the full implications Still - good luck to all of ya looking for work - kudos to the grafters out there whatever profession you get into (unless you are corporate banker & a complete w@nker)

also means she doesn't have to dip into her "shoes & bags & clothes & lippy" fund it ain't female logic - it's wise wifey common sense

ok here is some info I dug up that might indicate it needs to be a LONG AK nozzle but don't quote me or sue me if I'm wrong..... http://gunfire.pl/product-eng-1152200426-Nozzle-for-the-AK-type-replicas-long.html in comments bit 2 x reviewers wrote: Rate: Author: Ronalds, Riga I bought this nozzle because I read in comments that it fits E&L AK and I can only confirm, that it fits perfectly. Definite by if you have E&L AK. Rate: Author: Kenneth, Oosterzele Good nozzle for good price. Slightly longer than standard AK nozzle. Perfect for E&L replica's. so if that stuff is correct check your nozzle is 20.7 and not 19.6mm - yeah I know it is gonna be tricky if you ain't got digital caliper but at least you might know what type of nozzle "should" be in there.... yup - couple of sites say longer AK nozzle 20.7mm in E&L's and shs might be one to try n tracck down if needed: http://www.clandestineairsoft.com/nozzles-c-1_6_14/shs-aluminum-ak47-oring-nozzle-long-2074mm-p-21.html but you still need to check to operation & correct alignment of hop to box/nozzle etc... jeez I gotta grab some sleep, hope somebody else is up soon to help ya but I gotta get some shut eye sir

check the hop unit is correctly fitted into gearbox nozzle opening the classic paper test would show same results - air pi$$ing out of magwell which should not be happening if nozzle seals against bucking - the lips of the hop up = airtight and flows down barrel not magwell there are different nozzles for all different guns - 2 for AK's short - 19.6mm long - 21.7mm but I doubt if wrong nozzle fitted atm but more info about nozzles n lengths here: http://www.clandestineairsoft.com/nozzles-c-1_6_14/ what you need to do is check all the factors like I said see if tappet plate is moving freely back n forth - no snagging (remove spring from tappet btw and slide tappet back n forth) with box open and tappet+ nozzle fully forward but up hop to half of open box & see if you can "feel" nozzle touching & sealing against bucking see if hop unit is sealing correctly against completed gearbox like I mentioned you need to check all bits involved for any wear or snagging/bad operation did gun ever fire bb's at all - is bad seal something new or was it like this when you bought it ??? sounds like previous owner didn't have a clue - might have broke or fitted old nozzle with a new incorrect one that isn't sealing but you must have a very pi$$ poor seal or big airleak if most air is coming out of magwell instead of barrel if it was shagged cylinder head very little air would be emerging from nozzle but should pass down barrel so something is up with that box/nozzle to hop area btw you can't just shove in a long nozzle where a short nozzle should of been as you will very likely get feeding issues (improved seal but the correct length nozzle is a must - it needs to be just right to allow bb's to feed and also just enough to seal properly) to me at first or second glance head looks ok and nozzle looks undamaged too dunno about the operation of nozzle to hop - you need to investigate this like I said

was typing the bits below but you replied with a results test..... hmmm - firing out of gearbox/nozzle but jack $hit coming out of barrel ???? ok see if you can get gearbox to cycle with nozzle as far forward as possible place hop/barrel against gearbox/nozzle and blow down barrel it should of sealed if piston/nozzle seal is good check hop bucking - could be damaged or torn - just do a visual check than strip it down atm other issues is tappet not moving fully forward or incorrect nozzle fitted as there are 2 types of AK nozzle long n short but tbh I doubt it as it looks like a stock type of nozzle but who knows what the previous owner did the nozzle/tappet plate should move nicely forward n backwards - enough to allow bb to enter and also forward enough to seal against bucking in hop I would check hop unit is seated correctly and bolted together to the main receiver - all aligned correctly loss of compression or fps occurs either in gearbox - piston, cylinder head & nozzle or a poor seal from nozzle to hop unit (well the bucking can leak around barrel plus torn/worn/damaged bucking) often a common bad seal occurs from a poor nozzle to bucking seal is one of the likely issues and can be from worn/damaged/snagging tappet, worn nozzle or wrong nozzle length etc...... atm is seems pi$$ poor seal from nozzle to hop bucking maybe ???? previous essay I was composing about cylinder/piston seals but don't worry too much atm coz your hop ain't getting much air pushing through it atm so check hop to box and if nozzle touches the bucking...... - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Yup you got single o-ring on it.... now pop that in cylinder, probably won't seal that great but wtf.... pop in piston into cylinder - leave nozzle off finger over cylinder head and check compression..... probably a bit crap but see how it compresses best options are new double o-ring cylinder head & perhaps new nozzle but if time is short, parts availability limited you can try the cheapo options..... white ptfe tape - etc... wrapped around cylinder head n jam it in with a bit of grease to help piston o-ring can be stretched - some say lighter but think the safer way is: place piston o-ring around cylinder and drop this in a small dish of boiling water leave to cool, empty & pout in boiling water again - do this about 3 times to help stretch o-ring (using lighter can be a bit more risky) realistically - you should replace stuff with better/new bits n bobs but worth a go....

first pic - does that cylinder head have an o-ring on it in that groove ???? hard to make out but at first glance that should have an o-ring on there to improve seal add a load of ptfe or plumbing tape etc.... otherwise you'd be losing loads of compression and hence seem like a cracked cylinder head ??? can't be sure with head being jet black - looks 50% missing o-ring to me did it nigh on fall out of the cylinder ??? when good piston o-ring seal & cylinder head it only compresses a tiny amount and then feels like solid almost like water is in there or some other liquid rather than air that is difference between a good air seal & a great air seal actually starting to see I think the o-ring - but damn its not very pronounced being jet black is making it hard to see o-ring let alone a cracked head real test is how good it all seals up when compressing the piston in cylinder with head fitted