Sitting Duck

Sunday November 29th perhaps then ??? I'll have a check & quick think then dunno if it will still be around on Dec 13th & onwards evening games are out as I work shifts

motor connections - hmmm - maybe but depends what/where wires were wiggled very loose tamiya connections - or around fuse ? loose wire inside box/switch - hmm doubt it think any joins/connections should be checked first, could be a little corrosion on a loose connector/join is most likely normally a thin spade connector at front handguard is a good place to start might have pinched some wires in past so that could be next thing to look for folding stock so presume ya battery is up front - check for loose corroded joins & pinched wires also check motor connections in pistol grip - nothing too difficult just common sense and elimination

Holy f*ck !!!! Where are them tunnel rats gonna go now ??? Any idea when the last game might be coz I would like to get one last game in before it goes. OK they may not have chrono'd guns much but if ya got good protection - advise full face mask It really should be experienced Doubt if many places would come close to it, even other bunkers don't prepare you for such a full on pitch black fire fight down there. Similar thing happened to TWA urban site at Anerley/Crystal Palace Landlord wanted land back for development and 18 months later still not got a replacement urban site Was featured & rated as far away as US on YouTube Sad to see her go, them tunnels must hold a lot of stories even before little bb's started firing off into the darkness Maybe some good milsim sites around Kent plus Sandpitt or the Mall ????

a little revival - seen it on Gunfire which may work out £27 or there abouts... http://gunfire.pl/product-eng-1133729227-Replika-pistoletu-GG-102C.html people are quite pleased with this cheapo revolver - yes its cheapo crap but might worth an option if ya must have a revolver to complete ya loadout spare mags or rather lack of etc but all the same... £27 - if/when it goes tits up ya bin it as for cheap gin or expensive gin scenario.... if you are a connoisseur or enjoying a nice relaxing drink - yup go for the fine quality stuff if though your main intention is to get absolute rat ar$ed, totally out of your nut, dodgy curry/kebab and chuck most of everything all back up again later than evening - hmmm consider a more cost effective option perhaps ??? horses for courses - did say it was cheapo revolver but caught my eye anyway what ever floats ya boat n all that

I bought a while back one of these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AIRSOFT-AEG-8MM-FULL-GEARBOX-47-V3-VERSION-3-FRONT-WIRE-QD-APS-QUICK-RELEASE-AK-/272008716679?hash=item3f54fba187:g:ga0AAOSw4HVWFO0d NOW DO YOU THINK I CAN FIND THE F*CKER !!!!! Also bought a v2 box exact same type and 99% sure these used micro switches - short pull on/off but to use these micro switch boxes you MUST have a fet fitted coz micro switch don't last long on higher juice AK2M4 had some similar v2's with micro switches and sold the switches should they be needed but not sure if he stocked the v3's Now as was said in ya other post - the micro switch has a shorter pull indeed (still don't fully understand the cut off layout on semi with micro switches) So if I ever find this mofo bastid v3 from HelmetWorld - snigger soz Helmet World, I'll let ya know the difference Also I'm sure there was a 10 or 15% code knocking around, I had one but long expired Cheers hef: http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/16634-the-share-a-bargain-thread/page-10#entry213297 Dunno if still valid but might be worth a shot yup it ain't cheap but not ultra expensive either - might get it for £55ish which ain't bad for a complete UK box especially with quick change spring on top But alas I can't help coz haven't come across it for a while now - too much other crap in this house of ours (it was placed somewhere safe - now too safe coz I can't friggin' find the thing) I know the v2 fitted in an old SRC M4 - big improvement, but was too hot with a m110 spring or something and just left it when I got G&G's RIF's but deffo very short trigger pull in that SRC but no fet was fitted (hmmm might dig that M4 out and start sorting it out to flog or something) hope some of this crap helps - probably not finally I take great offense to the ad's line: "MAY NEED A QUALIFIED TOY ENGINEER TO FIT" cheeky f*ckers - where do I get this TOY ENGINEER qualification then insulting that word - qualified pah I make this crap as I go - natural born bull$hitter me - fully qualified in that area for sure

Welcome m8, mega kudos for doing some research You can learn loads on ya own just by reading up This place is one of the best well rounded forums for us toy gun nutters I too have still so much to learn from them master mofo's All the very best

well going by this: http://guay2.com/web/manual/FFR_manual.pdf it seems it don't have a fet - so just posi & neg to check check neg tamiya connector to neg motor for continuity the check positive at tamiya to posi motor and pull switch - should get continuity if not then than may indicate trouble at switch inside box if she is under guarantee then you should look at contacting retailer before stripping her down further there is also the point to check to leads running from tamya to a join just by back of receiver in case the fuse looks ok but the fuse holder itself is iffy or wires have got caught or unplugged from the connections (unlikely but still worth checking any points on the loom) my gut feeling is that it could be switch related inside box, but quite shocked a new gun should fail so soon you ain't been forcing the trigger on semi if she was stuck in semi's dead zone or going nutz with 11.1v 40c lipo's I assume you have tried obvious and fired her on full auto and test for continuity on positive on full auto too but odd a new gun should fail like that as the good ol' G&G's are usually very robust I wonder if the triger switch stop pin has broke inside - but the trigger would feel a slightly bit lighter to pull if this has failed then it would be very very wise to contact dealer before you rip her open and void any warranty left

Hmmmm weird one coz not 101% sure if it has a fet or not to go pear shape (not up on the latest G&G's I'm afraid) http://guay2.com/web/gc_product/CM16_FFR_A2.php?lang=en does have a mosfet http://guay2.com/web/gc_product/FFR12.php?lang=en does not seem to have a mosfet in stock tube if its still under warranty and before you rip her open, talk to the dealer/place you bought it from is best advice if the motor connected to G&G FFR still doesn't spin out of grip or half out then something has blown on the wiring side or on the trigger switch side.... The fet could be blown (G&G fet's are the most robust ones in the past) but can't 101% sure if it has a mosfet yes you could run a few tests on wiring with a multimeter but what you are testing depends on fet or no fet in theory if fetted then it would have red/black plus at least one extra thin wire at rear of receiver - stock tube (doubt if G&G mounted a tiny internal fet), and you should see an extra block on wiring loom in the tube as well as fuse if it isn't fetted then you will just have red/black wires running to gearbox..... testing for any breaks on posi wire first - battery end to motor connection pull trigger and complete circuit or continuity should take place - if not switch is w@nked perhaps (was you running her nutz on 11.1v that might start to burn trigger contacts) or the trigger/switch mechanism may have failed - doubt if it is one of them super duper electronic mofo units or it would of said like on SR range also check negative wire too - but this would be switched if fetted the thin red signal wire should work fine testing for continuity on posi lead/trigger switch as I say - depending on if she is fetted or not but it seems she ain't fetted if I got model correct I'm trying to determine if the mosfet is blown - but if she ain't got one then it can't be that trying then to test if the trigger switch is borked either burnt out or a mechanical failure I would deffo look into contacting the retailer if at all possible first failing that then maybe ask somebody at ya site who maintains the rental guns so you can save on postage and be kept updated whats wrong etc.... sounds either wiring, mosfet module or mechanical inside the box if trigger switch failed but a few further tests would help narrow it down to what exactly went pear shape please contact retailer first is my best advice and use any warranty you might have if s/hand maybe ask ya site's techy guru mofo next soz I can't help ya more atm

Pull the motor slighty out of pistol and pull trigger Motor should spin, if not then perhaps fet blown if there is one fitted or other wire problem (Motor could be shot but unlikely) If motor spins the box has locked up Little process of illimination Ain't stuck in dead zone - will it fire on full auto Soz but had to ask???

answered pm but can't say as not got TM or any other P226 if any TM mofo's can chime in with stuff like how compatible other mags are and a proper rating of gun over time - but alas I know jack $hit on the higher end TM stuff soz I can't help much, but won't give out info on stuff I know complete jack $hit about m8

eh - just post on here any questions really. I know jack $hit really outside of my cheapo cheerful stuff and it always is good to await others replies on stuff and go with flow/majority/your gut feeling I like most on here are still learning so only take the crap I type with a pinch of salt I type and chat bollox a lot but that don't really mean I know a lot and always wise to get another opinion on anything yeah if you want to pm me about any real cheap crap - I'll give you my honest personal answer but posting on here will give other opinions and might help others with similar questions at same time plus I might get corrected from talking out my ar$e - so we both learn at same time

efficiency - suppose if ya that worried get a non-blowback or simply - don't use it so much yes TM are more plastic and they say they may be less prone to freezing but valves n stuff are still metal.... WE Glock 18 when used on full auto the mags come out freezing but still seem to work ok But not gone through a winter yet with it and as we are both down south we may not see ridiculous ultra sub zero temps like North Scotland (Basically - if its that friggin' cold I am staying in doors - big girls blouse I am) Really cold spells is where cyma AEP's come in handy, yes only 200fps but often you may find indoor cqb is more cosy to play so up close firefights 200fps ain't a bad thing I guess If I find my WE G18 plays up this winter I'll let ya know but as weather has been mild so far no probs - yet

dunno but if you place an order at airsoft gi you can choose the option to pay taxes upfront..... worth noting most stuff from US has a good chance of getting stopped/charged compared to Hong Kong having a good chance on small-medium parcels getting through without duty (depends on parcel size and a bit of luck but often modest stuff from HK gets through (slowly) ok) check out a similar sort of item on AirSoft GI site, do some calculations in basket and see what's the worst damage you might get hit for???

green gas - 300fps co2 - 450+ and won't be allowed (actually can be over 1,200fps on a fresh bulb for a few shots) "some" co2 guns can be used or tweaked to scrape under 330-350fps but green gas - can use propane so think Green Gas pistols are what most use I bought a co2 pistol and can't really use it = ornament for playing airsoft

Think the SR range appeals to many at £180 coz of the sexy new CM receiver well no big white CM on side, the newer crane stock plus it has a mosfet fitted - hmm how great remains to see but also has a 3 round burst on some for £180 that is a good offering and I was very very tempted to get a SRS today with LWA's 10% off plus had some e-funds in my wallet at LWA so could of got a SRS for just over £150 delivered This however would of meant my testicles becoming detatched by Mrs Duck so after careful consideration I did not proceed with the bargain purchase, as I would spent far more in reconstructive surgery later on I personally am not a great fan of many G&G Top Tech's being blowback either and when spending £250+ I think other guns maybe like Krytac well these other guns need careful consideration I will admit I like the cheapo G&G's but not so keen or see exactly where another £70 - £100 is going on higher end G&G's that is just my take on it - no offense to anybody and their guns what ever floats ya boat and couldn't really care - I like my stuff and if you like your toy guns then that is all that matters (hopefully that should stop any my gun is better than your gun world war 3 rows n all that)

Krytac are put together with a bit more care n attention to detail I would say. The hogs n sr range of G&G guns - you are paying £60 + for a metal receiver which is not always the be all n end all. Budget wise sr range would be a good choice and you could upgrade at later date some bits inside to get close to a Krytac. Or out of box £300 Krytac is an option if you can afford it Depends on bidget -lol soz being silly, budget

Think so

GC16 revised range is probably the new style METAL receiver CM16 SR range is new style polymer receiver and been out for 6 months with elect trigger and 3 round burst well that is my gut feeling coz the "hogs" are about £250 and a polymer cm16 srl is £189 ish

its usually the spare mags ya carrying that burst into a samba de amigo routine get a single 450rnd M4 and you can still be quite stealthy, hey and no spare mags to lose either eventually if like me you go a bit nutz or the game turns into a long drawn out firefight you might run out of ammo but in the dead/safe zone refilling ya mag(s) you and ya team of hi cappers can burst into song again: yeah not very stealthy but wtf - if ya get owned - then get down on ya bad self and shake it baby (never managed to get them rare hen's teeth Dreamcast bad boys though) Damn it - now I wanna go off and look for a patch of that retro mofo now

pah - auto sniping, where is the fun in that...... the adrenalin all pumped up as you prepare your bid with seconds to go One shot at it (usually), sort out your max max bid, plus say a price of stamp on top in case £35 + £5 post = £40 very likely a few people may have chosen £40 as the max bid.... so £40.27 is hovering waiting to be clicked not too soon - not too late how late depends on your connection and if your pc is running sluggish/reboot needed etc..... (often 5 to 10 secs) Whack it in - boom, if you win it if you don't then you made sure the winner didn't quite get the "bargain" they was hoping for Interesting to point out - many many moons ago on Yahoo Auctions that was a serious competitor for ebay You could not snipe as often if last second bids came in the time counter was adjusted back a minute or two So if anybody tried to snipe in last 5 secs, the time would increase to say 90 seconds left to run Not good for buyers but for seller you could easily end up getting 10% to 20% more as buyers started a last minute bidding war Yahoo was free for sellers - Alas Ebay bought Yahoo and closed it - w@nkers Thus eliminating their nearest rival and continued with world domination for shafting sellers and promoting f*ckwits and scammers Yeah - ok if something ends at 03:37am maybe auto sniping but never used it myself I'll just whack in a bid, and make the mofo pay more if they want it more than me Best bargains used to found searching with wild cards or looking for spelling mistakes eg: " dragunov " could be mispelt to draganof or something so search for " drag " + " * " = " drag* " so searches would include sales from thicko sellers tucked away not always showing up BUT ebay stopped allowing you to include wild card searches - jeeez plus about 2 yrs ago they restricted other stuff like looking at a timewaster/scammer's buying history over last 30 days Ebay has changed a lot over the years n years I have been on there only thing that remains - they bolt you up for selling good sellers have lost out more from clued up scamming buyers that know how to play the game think approved sales are no more and you can't block any brand new accounts just created - zero feedback (scammers do this all the time - bad old feedback, no probs open another account and scam some more) Ebay do f*ck all about this, despite being told of this, hence I stopped selling - not worth hassle Soz for rant - uhm yeah bought some airsoft bits that I shouldn't of or don't really really need (but told missus its a bargain - what about all the other bargains lying around you had to have she said - ahh usual stuff in duck household)

In "theory" the longer barrel "should" be more accurate as it "should" stabilise the bb flight but a crap long barrel is worse as it can have an opposite effect on accuracy Smaller barrels tend to need a very slightly higher spring than longer barrels (eg: mp5 vs ak47) Ultra short barrels may lack the accuracy but can still have good range (mp5k or M4 stubby/pistol) (this is taking it like for like eg: perfect true lapped & polished barrel on long M4 & stubby cqb M4) Now obviously a well setup cqb gun can surpass a crap M16/AK47 But my understanding at some point there is little real trade off in most areas going longer/shorter With that in mind - there seems to be a happy medium barrel length perhaps 250mm to 350mm (my own aprox preference is about 275-300mm as a good all rounder barrel length for most situations) The Myth is that longer is better or more accurate does not always apply A lot of the range and accuracy is not down to barrel itself but the hop/bucking This is where the spin/magnus is created to help maintain flight for range and if created correctly and applied accurately is the foundation for accuracy as it starts its journey down the barrel (hopefully a good clean/polished quality barrel) if hop is not applying the pressure correctly/evenly then the bb will fall short or swerve or hook/slice if you like golf Now to get and improve your gun's accuracy is in fact down more to hop than barrel (other factors come into play - lapped/polished barrel, choice of bb's, tight bore does not always mean best barrel etc...) imho - 275-300 decent barrel, experiment with hop/bucking - flat hop or R hop system are 2 popular options used decent seemless quality 0.25gm bb's, keep barrel clean etc...... barrels on their do nigh on jack $hit - most is just down to personal pref quick run through of some guns/barrel G&G Raider Short - 233 Raider Long - 357 or most m4 carbines are about that 357 to 363 is norm M4 Commando - 300mm CM18 - think that is 275 GC16 - think that is 330 Firehawk - 110-120 - jeez can't remember but about same as a mp5k others.... AK74 - 229 aprox G36c - 250 aprox AK47 - usually 455 - but can vary a little depending on exact model/make ahhh crap - the other models L85 - 509 but again not all - there are different models like not all G36's are 250mm G36c (same goes for mp5's or M4's or AK's) ahh sod it - check the gun/model specs on a few sights as they don't always get posted 101% accurately just don't just assume the longer barrel mofo's must be more accurate (I got a couple of longer barrel guns that at the moment are just $hit - looks accurate but couldn't hit a barn door in reality)

Part of the joy I'm afraid Main spring would make no difference to feeding Weak tappet springs though can contribute to feed problems at higher speeds Many may use aluminium nozzles as they are a bit more robust, though some say at higher speeds they may mark the bb as it loads into hop. Me personally think a metal nozzle is fine unless you are maybe going insane rof. What you need to get is a nozzle as close as damn it to your old nozzle in length or you may need to mod it slightly A nozzle too long may give feed trouble A nozzle too short may not seal correctly against hop See herehttp://www.clandestineairsoft.com/nozzles-c-1_6_14/?page=2&sort=20a&zenid=dff4e7702c19551ac222deb388c7ecc6 Nozzles can vary from just over 21.17 to 21.50 But there are shorter ones like a Lonex m16 x 2 20.69 or 21.26 Same as AK nozzles there are long n short ones So try to get a replacement same size or a half a hairline over - you can file/sand it down a tiny bit but only if you are sure. Check everything against old / new The end don't matter too much, well it shouldn't but check nozzle slides into hop OK and don't snag The actual nozzle tip don't matter too much, they probably won't have tiny slits at the end, this is mainly for longer full stroke full cylinders to help avoid bb suck Your m4's cylinder should have a port on it so it will easily draw in air should there be any slight bb suck. Yes these toys do go pear shape I'm afraid edit - early morning reply from me on my fone = the odd mistake here n there

If them bastid m4 roadworks ease up Yeah wtf I could make a trip to Mall

I can be a bit of a tart sometimes And shoot/squeal like a girl Does that count?

BIG WORD OF CAUTION - soz for shouting..... Try a 2 cell 7.4v lipo first !!!!! 3 cell 11.1v might be a bit too much especially if you strap some 11.1v 35c+ bastid to ya gun run it on 7.4v - see how quick she fires, expect to see 50% again with extra cell if you are getting 20rps on 7.4v then you may be getting 30rps on 11.1v 30rps may not be wise on a stock gun - Pre Engagement may happen if heavy piston and light spring in any case the piston's pick up tooth may just snap off soon if Angle of Engagement not done (I know this coz snapped a couple of pistons by chucking in fast motors and more juice - yeah that didn't last too long) just go easy - 20 should be ok for stock gun 25rps and she may double fire 30 risk of PE "may" appear test on 7.4v first and get an idea - you will probably be ok if motor is not too mental but a few people have boned their guns from going nutz on the juice out of the box