Sitting Duck

This guy also thought it was a typo too... Iwas gonna post a pic of Jimmy Krankie but it was getting a little confusing plus I didn't want to offend anybody North of the border.....

well if any mofo's can measure the bloomin' thing then pop along to hobbyking's - Battery Locator: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/lithium_polymer_battery_configuration.asp bung in dimensions of the 350mah 7.4v lipo - dunno the burst or the actual sizes (you rich bastid's have your moment to shine here) BUT - this sort of stuff might get you out of $hit http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=32170 NB: I AIN'T SAYING THE ABOVE BATTERY IS EXACT ONE TO FIT BUT JUST DUG UP SOMETHING if you get dimensions then you might be able to source something as per usual - it is up to potential buyer to double - triple check all dimensions n crap are within tolerances etc do not shoot the duck Or try to make up a dummy block size to enable you to work out the aprox dimensions off-cut of wood, rolled up cardboard taped together, couple of chewing gum packs, kitkat bar(s) etc.... almost anything to help suss out what dimensions you might have to work with.... drop a couple of mm off each max dimension to allow for give n take plus wires etc.... bang in the dimensions and see what comes up....

should use a large nimah 8.4v battery but with a small tamiya by default (unless the small tamiya has been replaced) say 150mm x 45mm x 25mm at a guess YOU really need to check out the max battery size yourself then weigh up what your options are (probably 7.4v 25/30c lipo tbh)

Absolute agree - if he has one to hand or arriving soon Think Ian's idea of slightly lower spring and add spacer/washers if needed is best Was just saying if he rips her open to consider cutting coil(s) might be worth a check/try spring in reverse & may drop fps (later on if spring loses tension refit spring correctly etc....) But yes correct spring is best option if available

pulling the reply to pieces: So it was feeding/working when he received it So now the motor spins but no firing action - hmmm gears mashed up or likely piston's pick up tooth snapped off but this happened AT THE SHOP or with the TECH GUY "testing it" OK - it might have not liked some mags - but that isn't uncommon it did feed with other mags he bought from your recommendation - 20 mins maybe is a bit weird & short lived ???? but did feed it clearly states in black n white Secondly the gun was still cycling at the shop but then stopped a few shots later ??? I'm wondering was the guy going nutz on 11.1v 35c lipo with a higher speed motor or something Gun went tits up - but was working at first...... Furthermore the motor problem height: & OK a minor tweak on motor height maybe perhaps from transit - but it is all starting to add up to there is more to this than he the buyer is letting on imho Have read this over at Zero In Forum and they are all singing from the same page too 7 weeks wait and it don't sound 101% correct 2 lots of forums saying the same stuff - gotta love this quote from Z1 tackle though: Yes you could tell him where to go, or maybe offer a few spares n stuff you might have to hand but first off the buyer needs to be a little more honest perhaps or accept too much time may have passed and therefore $hit happens with anything second hand hope you get it resolved reasonably ok without the stone cold harshness of F*CK OFF

Gotta admit them AK's do have the slight edge over G&G CM M4's (Ian n others smile) just I do find M4's a little more ergonomic for me to use

Think you should offer him your p* in compensation or at very least send him a Satan aeg motor to cure the feed issues seriously - it is 99% mag related and double feeding most of this "double feeding" is not double but mis feeding bb doesn't fully load/fire 1 bb but partially loads and then the next bb plops in there behind it eg: 1 - 1 - 0 - 2 -1 - 1 - 0 - 2 etc.... mags and maybe hop unit - but gearbox/motor ??? - nahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

ABSOLUTE BOLLOCKS Distance of goods crap is something like: quoted from here: http://www.which.co.uk/consumer-rights/regulation/distance-selling-regulations Your right to cancel an order The Distance Selling Regulations state that your right to cancel an order starts the moment you place your order and doesn’t end until seven working days from the day after you receive your goods. This is the minimum consumers must be given and many sellers choose to exceed this, so always check the terms and conditions in case you have longer to return your items. As this seven-day working period is the time you have to decide whether to cancel, by law the seller can’t say that you must have returned the goods within this time frame. Confirmation of your cancellation should be sent by email, letter or fax. I had this $hit once in particular on ebay from some clown who contacted me 19 days later what a w@nker he was trying it on ffs (zero feedback - new member that you can't block now on ebay) thought then he was trying it on to return another broken item that wasn't mine or had a change of heart - but most likely saying it was faulty suffice to say I no longer sell stuff on ebay you are trying to help the guy with offer of bits n bobs but he has had his chance if this was first contact and that store is trying it on even more than my ebay friendly buyer - who are they JBBG ffs ???

Any updates on how Murphy is getting on ??? did she fire bridging 4+5 or did it start a lipo bbq ???

Cyma's are good and TWG are probably one of best places to get 028's from (or higher end ones) dont get the slightly cheaper even more plastic cyma/spartac rebranded ones springs will need to be downgraded for UK (free from Gunfire/TaiwanGun) but as Lozart just pointed out you will need ukara

welcome sir I STRONGLY advise you to consider giving this a read: http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/17294-ians-guide-to-noobism-on-a-tight-budget/ as it will save us SOO much time almost any gun will do but don't decide on just one gun type when there are the common ak m4 g36 + some others read up a little - watch a few vids maybe to see if you wanna have a go skirmishing or just plink in ya garden pop along for a day & rent a gun at a site to truely test the water first and see for yourself players guns n crap Don't get me wrong I love to wipe n feed people, but feel you need to do a little bit more research before I'll just say get a Cyma - damn it I'm doing it all again..... seriously - have a little read up first please - a LOT of answers are in some of them guides and a load more answers to questions you haven't thought of yet are in there too http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/12854-new-player-guides-info/ welcome to the world of big boy toy guns, just avoid jumping in and buying crap from sites with BB in their names (my only quest in life is to limit how rich JambWow gets from new players taking up the sport - wish somebody stopped me making same mistakes)

Daft reply & I presume it is a bolt action sniper (so short stroke won't work here duck) But on the odd chance that the spring might be irregular type - fit it ar$e about face ? (heck if spring change is easy peasy - it "might" be worth a short anyway "just in case") I know in aeg's fitting a spring ar$e about face can result in a drop of expected fps

back in the good ol' days when cars n stuff could be "fixed" or at a push bodged to get ya home now it is a case of - ahh the swively up nut pcb is boned - that is £500 please wtf - can't you just replaced that iddy biddy thingy majig ??? sorry m8 - it is a whole new unit - it is how they come now jeeez back back on topic glad it was 4.5 days & not 45 days delivery yes the B3 is a kinda trickle charger but will get you going and ya feet wet using lipo's imho anybody who buys new nimah's instead of lipo's needs their head or wallet tested OK if somebody is selling off some good cheapish ones but sod buying new nimah's next thing to look at is dropping tamiya to deans or T connections - but like most stuff do it in stages get 'em charged and get shooting for now

Married / Grounded Not much in it really Know this though..... Behind every great man - stands a great woman and right behind that great woman is another man checking out her ar$e

Yup 48yrs young, smoker so I fully understand about fitness etc.... First thing forget ya K D bollox I'll gladly let the younger lot go sprinting off all guns ablazing I'll hold base, or try a sneaky road less travelled route to get a few kills before I'm taken out Failing that I'll go for a decoy or diversion mode of play Hopefully my younger or the more professional players will seize the moment to gain ground whilst my hairy ol'ar$e is being shot to bits..... I know I'm never gonna own or dominate but I play for fun or $hits n giggles that is all.... By all means go for a sniper role, but you can have a great time if you don't take it all too serious and try to play above your level and be something you are not. No offense meant, give it a go but by all means try a few different styles of play without the stress if you succeed or not. You could very well make a good sniper but above all don't get too stressed if things don't always work out. Learn your own strengths n weaknesses but above all enjoy being an unfit saddo with you guns Well it works for me

Realistically there are a number of ways to test this n that on it suppose the easiest method if OP doesn't have test meter n stuff pull off the mini deans signal connector The mini deans has two connection points a posi supply & return (signal wire) - so it should be a case of bridged those connections then that in effect is the low amp current from trigger pic says 1,000 words.............. that should work even if you got 1 or 2 wires going into the black mini deans connector if it all works properly then ya tech is a nob !!!!! he might of wired a posi lead to wrong side of the mini deans - eg: 7.4v to 7.4v supply but that shouldn't cause it to fire I would of thought as it is same 7.4v+ supply most likely if 2 wires coming off - eg 4+5 then these may have shorted or wired signal single wire wrong/shorted or trigger stuck shut as Spatch suggested Who knows atm but quick test of Merf or let's call him Murphy Anyway - remove black mini deans - bridge them connectors - CAREFULLY with insulated wire (suppose to be super safe test eviroment - a small switch with 2 wires on then jam into black mini deans connection point) c'mon - use some common sense here but you get the idea of how to run a quick test but use some 18 pence and FFS don't try to short any larger red deans - you are just gonna test the BLACK MINI deans connection in pic (This duck is not responsible for any deep fried colour blind mofo's and use switch+wires is safest method tbh) ignore my ahh sod it what's the worst that can happen and start lipo bbq's inside my house Hope Murphy feels better soon

Think the Merf's programming mode is done by unplugging deans fet to motor lead ???? Well that is what I read in Merf PDF manual or something But deffo check for short circuit first

Sounds like the first to check is signal wire... Think that is the smaller black mini deans connector That wire that runs to turn on fet may have got chewed up by motor, crimped/clamped by gearbox closing up or even the classic M4 pin punching right through wires as it got fitted... That is my guess atm - a short, probably signal wire

Short on the signal wire Pretty sure Gates are guaranteed for a year First off explain a bit more coz how the heck Can a "tech" install something that badly n untested ??? Also programmable fet's normally have a 5sec window when connecting battery In other words this is where you get the time to customise the bursts n crap... So if fet is programmed correctly, then you WAIT 5 seconds before pulling trigger if you fitted a battery on there.... Otherwise you enter the "programming" mode Which you may have done by accident and messed up the stored settings so that it no longer cycles a 3rnd burst For the record I don't own a Merf 3.2 But messed around with a Kong II Which is same meat different gravy Only real difference is Merf is Active Breaking fet Re-read manual and look for a "restore or default" mode That should return the Merf back to a default state if programming messed up However if no joy, then a process of elimination test with a basic normal 3034 fet... Unplug the Merf with the deans connectors The plug in a basic non AB fet with signal wire And she should work if no shorts If so then Merf could be boned If still going nutz then you got a shirt on signal wire to fet But your "tech" should ofvsorted and tested this all out tbh Or it can tested with a multimeter for voltage or continuity If you measure signal wire n negative battery You should not get any voltage until you pull trigger There are a few ways to test out stuff, could be defective but likely to be short or messed up programming

2kg polymer 4kg full pot metal tbh it is the bloke wielding it - moi... That could do with losing a bit of weight

Me personally I'd try n get at least one aeg hitting 349.9999999fps on 0.20's with AoE & bearing spring guide & great seals etc..... Then try a flat hop on a new barrel - most you could probably go to is an AK type 455mm on full cylinder using .25's (not gonna get into vol ratio maths crap but that is about max barrel on noimal aeg cylinder using a bit heavier bb imho) I would get one of ya guns running very sweet and then decide if you still wanna go to dmr route then you can chuck in a higher spring n see later if it is worth it - but get gun running and shooting better first before you commit to dmr maybe

I refer to the few hairs I have left on my head which are mainly grey well them grey hairs on my head and arms chest back (not gonna lower the tone even further by checking for grey pubes etc...) back on track - I refer to my ol bastid grey hairs as quite simply " Threads of Wisdom " yeah I'm an old fart but have attained snippets of wisdom by learning from my many many screw ups or mistakes over many moons/decades (still aquiring more wisdom and I still screw up - just hopefully a little less often than in my younger "know it all" days) Fact of the matter is I am now wiser and realise that I will never know it all - in fact very little but old enough now to not give a to$$ about trying to prove it to them youngsters anymore They will learn like we all did falling ar$e over tit I'm still an ol' grumpy bastid - just a more mellow ol' grumpy bastid

Not the Allegro - or rather the ALL AGRO jeez I briefly owned one for a weekend - was a friggin' deathtrap mainly coz brakes needing doing and so due to car's value it was beyond economical repair

soz but was skipping bits n pieces but my gut feeling was isoprol to clean and a lightly damp sqeezed out cloth of silicone run down say 80 to 85% of barrel (mark on cleaning rod where the hop or bucking is and keep an inch away from that mark - common sense really) then a dry cloth if poss to polish off That was what I rolled with - but really gotta keep away from hop or you gotta strip it down and wash bucking in washing up liquid Washing up liquid is about one of best de-greasers to remove slicone oil coz it is a bitch to clean up spills at work of it but jeez it is bloody good stuff we use to reduce drag in print industry on folders & guillotines etc... spill it on floor and it is really like an ice skating rink - really slippery stuff and only a tiny amount needed (so spills that happened in past need to dealt with properly coz it is a bit dangerous in workplace floor) but yeah more slippery than an italian waiter round ya bird on holiday and yeah sounds like the R-hop bloke or bloke that has done numerous r-hop & barrel lapping vids edit: small additional bit of info about silicone oil and stuff...... Like I said it greatly reduces drag on our machines at work - mega fact there BUT also it greatly reduces static - which on our machines causes very weird bizarre results of materials (paper) not behaving as expected - the static can create even further drag n stuff (you really need to see this to believe it) Especially with digitally printed stock/paper that still has a "charge" left it in it fine quick spray and machines run as expected once again for a while (presume the fine coating seperates m/c & static paper to transfer freely etc.. but I dunno the exact science crap on this) BUT it does help to minimise or assist in regaining control of weird static sheets through the folding machines.... Anyway - soz for additional bollox but like a plastic comb or balloon or all other basic static fun science tests..... Often wondered if any minor slight possible static could ever be picked up as the plastic bb is fired or dragged/pushedd down the steel/aliminium/brass barrel after the rubber hop has created magnus thingy majig.... My own gut feeling and untested hunch btw - is very very little possible chance of static building up but none the less there could be a very very slight possible chance that "maybe" some bb's might have or be prone to "static" than others ? Anyway - this is very very slim possible chance of it happening or stuff but again silicone does yeild good results for when static can cause really weird effects or results in my line of work..... A final word of caution though - though this won't transform your aeg into a dmr when a little barrel polishing is done I would not advise you polish a barrel on a gun running a bit "warm" as I would expect a slight possible increase in fps from the reduced drag and smoother movement of bb down barrel Not an additional 100fps crap but quite likely a possible 10 or 15fps maybe more if ya barrel is really full of crap So if ya gun is shooting quite close to ya site's limit and in need of a clean - maybe ease off the silicone (well at least until its passed the chrono coz I'd expect it might just go a smidge higher if polished correctly) common sense stuff but really use with caution only say 80% down the barrel coz it will screw ya hop right up if it gets in there

Hillman Imp - jeez that was an odd vehicle yup my parents got a Sunbeam - wish they got the Lotus Sunbeam Worse one was an Alpine - jeez a bag of bolts rattling in a Quality Street tin sounded quieter than that They always sounded like the had no friggin oil in 'em - front wheel drive engine screeming let me out let me out !!!!!