Samurai

Well then, let's hear it! The first gun is my G3. It was originally built to be silent but I had to replace the motor and the bushings, so it's not that silent as it could be. The second is a mostly standard boyi pdw. The suppressor has foam inside.

Cool. Then measure resistance between the battery connector's ends, and the contact points of the gearbox, and even the body of the gearbox. Both with trigger pulled and released. This way you can find where the unneeded contact is.

Well, you should try using nimh because if you short circuit a lipo, it can go up in flames or even explode. The nimh just dies. I'm trying not to be rude here, but it seems you don't really have the understanding or the tools to get this done. You should get a multimeter and measure resistances.

I know. That's what I meant by "pretty decent". They are actually very-very good quality. Even the rubber is better than most aftermarket ones.

Cymas nowdays have pretty decent 6.04 barrels, you won't get any measurable benefit replacing it with an other precision barrel.

It does look pretty decent for that price. And from the pictures it seems that it does have a standard v3 gearbox. I'm looking forward to your review.

As usual, I argue. The AEG's loudest sound is from it's gears. As TacMaster said, it is not easy to build one with low noise, but it is sure possible. Then the next loudest can be the sound of piston hitting the piston head. This snapping sound comes from the barrel. With proper barrel length and piston head, it can be lowered, and then if you install a suppressor, this snap is transformed into a thud, that sounds much quieter.

Remove hopup and barrel, take it apart, and clean it with warm soapy water, then reassemble it. If there is visible damage on the rubber, change it. If it has a 1 piece hopup, you will get much more consistency if you glue a rubber spacer between the hopup and the body.

I actually found that bearings tend to be more silent.

These are pretty decent guns: http://gunfire.pl/product-eng-1152189563-JG070MG-sub-machinegun-replica.html http://gunfire.pl/product-eng-1152189535-JG0638-subcarbine-replica-black.html Of course you'll need defense to import them.

Yes, it's TM. If there are screws inside and in front of the magwell, then it's TM clone. http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/cyma-ak47-full-metal-wood-airsoft-aeg-cm-042-1.html#.VEzH_hZMu50

Yes, that works. Actually sometimes a 7.4 won't be enough for a dmr so 11.1 is a must.

The longer one is sexier. But if you do CQB... damn, get the longer one, it's sexier.

I held a PDR once and fired a couple of shots. It is actually quite nice. I found the P90 uncomfortable for my hands.

Just put a neodymium magnet on the underside of the GB at the AR latch. In emergency cases (you can't find the magnet) a hairpin from the motor side.

Is the new barrel much longer/shorter than the original?

Practice, practice, practice... And some youtube videos.

Then why exactly do you want a weapon? If you don't know which you want, or why you want it, you probably won't use it.

You can cut with anything that doesn't squeeze the barrel. After that as straffham said, you need to crown the barrel, preferably with a crowning tool or a turning machine. Also note that you must have a matching cylinder installed to the new barrel length. Cheaper band V2 gearboxes easily crack if the cylinder's capacity is bigger than the barrel's. Even better bands will do that with 11.1 lipo or strong springs, or metal piston heads, etc...

It is a balancer charger. It only connects with the balance (little white) connector. Each cell is charged separately. Keep it on until all three leds are green. If there is a probem with a cell, then the corresponding led blinks red. This charger operates on a bit low current level meaning it is slow. It charges a battery in quite a few hours. If the battery has never been balanced, it is very well possible that the cells are on a different level, and one of them is above the "charged" voltage (4.2V if I remember correctly). If you had a multimeter you could measure each cell's voltage to check it.

If it's this one, then it's a standard B3 and it is balancing. It only has the balancer plug. If it doesn't blink then it's charging. (On the side note: holy cr*p £20 for a B3? You can get that from ebay for £6,89 with a different sticker.)

No. The first column is the fps measured with 0.20g BBs. Heavier BBs will fly farther form the same weapon. They start at lower speed but they loose their speed slower. They even reach the target faster from about 30-40 meters and up. As for the original question: these values seem to be valid according to my experience.

As always, I recommend A&K M24. Clean it, use it. There is plenty of upgrade capacity in it for later. But yeah, if you can get an unmodified TM, that is the best. I started with a Well MB06. Quite cr*p. I had L96 one or two, still quite bad. I have an upgraded Bar-10. This one is great. Both the Bar-10 and the A&K M24 take VSR parts (mostly) and that is still the best sniper platform. What Mr Monkey Nuts said is very true. You have to be prepared to absolutely suck at the first dozen of games. On my first sniper game my only success was that I got my crosshairs on one guy (and missed the shot). I couldn't even aim at anyone else, and by that time I already had a few years of experience with my aeg. Ok, it was milsim, but that gives the idea how different sniping is to "aeging". On my second game I could shoot one guy, and then gradually I became better and better. I'm still not good.

Cyma is one of the best. The internals are really-really great. The current models have even stronger gearbox. The early versions were exact TM copy so after a power upgrade they could crack. I don't know about the externals, I only had normal M14s.

Also note that the "long tube of foam" you are referring to might be pipe insulation - this is the grey thing you see in most diy stores - is closed cell foam. That means air and thus sound can't travel through it, so it won't reduce the sound.