Samurai

The 228 fps is very low for an M90. Just replace the hopup rubber, clean the barrel and check the result first. No need to buy a new hopup unit yet.

If unsure, test it.

And it even moves!

Most probably it's because of the better airseal you got with cleaning/greasing it fresh. Or it can be simply because of a different setting of the hopup. Edit: or maybe you used different chronos for the 2 measurements.

http://www.taiwangun.com/en/electric-air-soft-guns?pr=18 Check if the description says something like "New Enhanced Hop-Up chamber compatible with GUARDER rubber and with other TM-standard Hop-Up rubbers." means that it's the new version

A&K is a very good choice now. The new versions that came out recently have aluminum body, CNC'd ras and finally the internals are fully TM compatible - even the hopup.

If there is a AS event where it's actually needed, call me, I'm in.

In my opinion: big, heavy, shoots quite inaccurate and will slam fire after a few games with it. There are much better snipers out there. If you want to upgrade (means quite a lot of money) then Bar-10 or well's fully vsr-10 compatible one. I think that's mb-03 but not 100% sure about it. Or A&K M24. This comes with steel trigger set and metal piston so you only really need to upgrade the hopup and barrel later. If you can afford a Marui vsr-10 then use it as it is for a while. If you get the bar-10 then get steel sears (like SHS) and use it for a while like that. If you still into sniping, then upgrade.

Yup, it's 99% you are slapping the trigger. Pull the trigger fully on each semi shot and don't release until the cycle is done.

Well I haven't tried that but evike says they're the same: http://www.evike.com/products/34138/

It's the same as the Marui M9 Beretta mag lips (just the lips, not the whole mag.)

Try an other BB brand. There are some that don't slide on eachother too well. It's easy to remove the lip. There is a pin across the top. Push that out to one side (it won't move to the other side) and you can pull the top out.

Why? My best shotgun was a single shot, and it was amazingly accurate. Perfectly skirmishable.

Where?

Great, then it's a vfc. Check that link in my last post. One thing to be careful about is if the rear sight block is not steel (check that with magnet) then it's easy to break it by turning the barrel sideways accidentally when you wiggle it out.

If you coordinate well with him, it can work really well. You are way more noticeable on the move if there are two of you, but having two fire positions, and of course that automatic weapon to compensate the sniper's weakness is great. Don't ever be in the same spot with your spotter. On patrol the spotter goes first. He also should have the same ghillie as you. You really should have radio contact with him. When enemy is nearby, only one of you moves at a time. When I played with my spotter he got way more kills than me, but I got the tricky ones. And with no enemy nearby, we could take great pictures how well the other is hiding.

Yup, Marui VSR-10 is the best. You only need ghillie if you lay down and wait a lot. For that to work, you will need a mislim game. Most of the time a head and shoulders "ghillie" is perfectly enough. Since you said we shouldn't discuss pistols, then I won't say that an NBB like an MK23 is more suited as a sidearm. Proper airsoft sniping is a very different playstyle to normal playing. If it's similar, then you are not sniping, you are a DM. Practice with your gun a lot. Set it up so that on about 40 yards it shoots exactly where the crosshair is. Learn where you should aim on 30-50-60 yards. A very-very good AS sniper gun can do a grouping of 30-40cm on 70 yards. That means every shot is inside that circle. If someone says "mine is better", tell them to prove it. Measure 70 yards and place 10 shots on a target, and don't leave out stray BBs, or blame the wind, etc. Place ALL the shots inside that circle. Anyway. You won't even shoot that grouping in a game, because the target moves, there is some wind, there is some foilage in between, you are tired, etc. You usually shoot at about 40-50 yards. Well within the range of AEGs. So sniping is mostly about surprise. Get them from an angle they don't expect. Place 3-4 shots, and leave even if you don't have a hit. Once someone with an AEG knows where you are, he will get you. Well, you can use this to lure them. Get some shots, and when they go after you, you are already in a spot you found earlier looking down your previous position. It's not easy to do this but it's an awesome feeling if you pull it off. Don't be afraid of laying down, moving very-very slow or staying in one place for half an hour or more - and leave without a shot. Use the heaviest BBs your gun can handle, and use the best ones you can find. The other playstyle you can do is being a DM. A DM moves with the team, and engages the enemy about the same way as the others. Your gun shoots less, but more accurate so eventually at the same success rate. For this style - because of the minimal engagement distance - you will need a sidearm with good firepower. For a sniper an accurate and silent handgun is the best. For a DM, something that shoots a lot. GBB with spare mags, AEPs with full auto capability, even SMGs. Once I played with my sniper gun on my back on a biathlon sling and my AEG in the hand, being able to switch them - which was a pain in the ass but it was fun to have the extra accuracy and scope when needed. You will see what works for you and for the sites you are playing. The most important is that even if you have a lot of experience with an AEG, be prepared to learn a lot before you can be a succesful sniper.

Extra mags. Nothing else is needed for a TM.

Is it the TM colne? The one with 2 screws in the magwell, 2 in front of that on the bottom if the gun? If it is, undo those. If it's vfc clone then Check this: http://www.airsplat.com/Items/ERM-BI-74U-RK01.htm

Maybe it's a good topic for this. Hazards of lasers: http://www.lasersafetyfacts.com/resources/Laser-hazard-distance-chart.pdf

Like this one? Apart from the fact that he is filming mostly a blank table. Once you get the frontset separate from the body, there are 2 screws holding the hopup. Just undo them and slide the barrel with the hopup out.

Just clean the barrel+hopup with the cleaning rod with some rubbing alcohol. And then throw the silicone away. No aeg or aep needs it. Actually GBBs have much better lubricants than silicone so just throw it away. The first few bad shots also can be caused by the cold weather. It needs a few shots to warm the houp rubber. This depends on the rubber.

Not bad. IMO get rid of the black gloves too, hands move the most.

As far as I know IR laser near the visible spectrum can do permanent damage to the eyes. The military ones are mostly eye safe I think.

Imagine how dangerous that would be. Will it recognise the stupid guy with the eyepro off? Create a bomb disposal or a recon drone if you must but giving it weapons would not be smart in my opinion.