Samurai

It takes a lot of fiddling to put together a decent DMR - or actually any really good performing gun. Meaning: shops usually don't do it. They put some good internal parts into it and hope that does the job well enough that the user won't return the next week. Usually they don't have the time/interest/loving a DMR needs.

In my opinion it also defined by how you use the gun. I consider my playing style as DM even though I only use a red dot and a 350 fps aeg. I only use single shot, careful aiming, and my gun usually outperforms most AEGs as it has carefully selected internals.

The rubber and barrel are VSR compatible so you have plenty upgrades to choose from. The other parts of it are good as they are. Actually you don't even have to change these at the beginning either. I think taiwangun.com or gunfire.pl has it. I don't know if they two-tone it or not.

Currently the best buy sniper gun is A&K M24. It already has steel trigger mechanism. A few tweaks, a good hopup rubber, a barrel and you are good to go. However I usually recommend sniping to more experienced players. It is nothing like in the computer games. Play at least one year with AEG before taking up sniping or you will be really disappointed. The L96 without upgrade is just as accurate as a bad AEG. There is no hopup rubber available for it as far as I know so it is a pain in the *ss to get real accuracy out of it. You can get a hopup chamber for a lot of money that uses AEG rubber but that will get only AEG accuracy tops. You should go for a VSR based system - like the A&K M24.

True. For me, red dot FTW. Most people just start shooting and correct the aim depending where the BBs hit. In that case any optic is just in the way.

Use polycarbonate. 2mm thick at least.

It's WE not Well. They are very different companies. Edit: highoctane was faster.

Then that's a souluton to this problem too. Give it to CaptainSwoop's dad.

You can try with a torx key.

V2 gearbox and M4 hopup is the worst possible choice for a DMR. V2 is veak - you need an aluminum CNC version if you want it really strong, and the m4 hopup is the least accorate of them all. I would use an M14 platform. That is the best choice for a DMR - and also the smallest GB so you can fit it in any custom body.

Isn't daytona (and ghk, etc) just make a drop-in kit in place of the gearbox? IMHO that would successfully combine the negative things of both types. Basically you describe a kind of HPA kit but HPA would be created by a compressor in the gun.

Tanio koba barrels have similar inner as rifled barrels but they work differently. As Russe11 said, they work with lower powered guns and actually not really better than a good precision barrel. They create smooth airflow around the BB.

Yes, that is offence unfortunately. I wanted to bring my guns with me so I did a thorough search on it. You must have defence even if you are sending it to yourself or bringing it in your luggage.

Then your RIF needs a mechanic.

A Modify hopup rubber.

You can put a red dot on that front rail, it works just fine. Actually I prefer it that way. Real steel AK users have that too:

I would choose Cyma over G&P any time. At least the AK or M14 over a G&P M4. A hongkong shop has sales for G&P products now with prices at a 1/3 of their original prices. That gives an idea about how overpriced G&P is.

Boyi G36c is a clone of Ares's G36c. It has suprisingly fine recoil as well as the internals look quite allright. In fact, after a cleanup (the hopup was soaked with grease - thanks to gunfire.pl's "upgrade") it was one of the most accurate gun I have ever held, and definiately the most accurate with factory internals. I would definiately get one if there would be a free space in my gun slots.

As BrightCandle said, measure with 0.20. But do use it with 0.30 or heavier if the gun can spin it. The heavier the BB, the more accurate your shots are. Personally I would go for a JG Bar-10 with the aforementioned parts. I had an L96 before for a short time but it was way too long, heavy, and because no-one makes aftermarket hopup rubber for it, quite useless. When I built my bar-10 I was not in the UK yet and since we had a 600 fps limit I got a 90 degree piston and a hand-made steel trigger assembly too. For 450 the 45 degree one with the steel sears will do fine. I think I've ordered the parts from wgcshop.

VSR with modify rubber, SHS steel sears,a 45 degree metal piston and a spring. If you start with a JG-bar 10 then I would recommend a modify precision barrel too. Shim the hopup arm and you're good to go.

It seems like you've made a mistake when you put it together. Like you left out the tappet plate spring, or the nozzle is not on the tappet, or something similar.

I've been shot way too many times when I didn't expected it, in safe zones or at home. At a game day first thing is to put my goggles on and I only take it off when I'm driving away at the end of the day. Sometimes you can even surprise yourself with a well placed unintentional shot. For example the time I was building an 500 fps DMR and I put my finger in front of the muzzle to see if the air blows hard enough when I fire. There was still a BB in the hopup. Oh, fun times...

I've ordered about 10 chargers like these in the past years from china. One died after short time, the others were fine.

In that case I would recommend buying a smart charger like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Imax-B6-B6AC-Lipo-NiMh-LCD-Digital-Balance-Battery-RC-Helicopter-Charger-1-6S-/350804974421?pt=Battery_Chargers&hash=item51ad9b1b55 You can use it's nimh mode to kickstart the lipo and then switch to lipo charging.

If it goes below minimum voltage then it looses some from the maximum capacity (1100mAh in your case). If the battery is way below minimum voltage then there is risk of fire, etc, but if it's only slightly below the minimum then it's not going to happen. Of course you should watch it for that few minutes of kickstarting. I've successfully revived a handful of lipos with this method. Both of those chargers are lipo chargers meaning that they are "smart". A dumb charger is something that just gives a somewhat stable output voltage and doesn't check anything. Those always have the output voltage and current written on them.