Samurai

Yes, silicone reduces drag. For example you can spray it on the dashboard of a car, and it gets extra shiny and slippery. The bad thing is that the rubber sucks it up and gets soft and swollen. It is a good thing for gas sealants in gas mags. If you have a leaking magazine, and don't have a new o ring, just spray silicone in a small tray, put the o ring in it for overnight, and it get softer and a bit bigger - the perfect thing for a good seal. But for a hopup rubber that's bad. For any other parts in an AEG it's way too light. It just splashes everywhere from the moving parts just after a few seconds of shooting and nothing is left on the gears. It's also not good for lubricating gas guns, because it attracts dust and dirt. After a while it will become something like mud. You shoud use dry silicone or teflon spray, or something similar there. You can use silicone in the barrel, but you have to be careful to avoid the hopup rubber, and it is not for cleaning so it won't do a perfect job. Rubbing alcohol does it better. You can lubricate the barrel after cleaning it with silicone but it doesn't really do any difference. As for my background: I was working as an airsoft mechanic for some years as a part time job.

Contrary to popular belief, no silicone spray should go near any AEG ever. Not only the rubber sucks it up and gets softer and swollen, even if you clean it afterwards, but dust sticks into it. Clean your barrel with alcohol and that's it.

Most brands of BBs have bubbles. If it is in the middle then they are accurate, like Madbull. Bad quality BBs have bubbles in them randomly. Usually bio BBs and really high grade BBs (like SGM 0.29) don't have any bubbles.

That compressed air is waaay more compressed than what we have in airsoft.

If your cylinder's capacity is larger than the barrel's then the BB is already out of the barrel before the piston head hits the cylinder head. That means it hits it without the cushioning effect of air behind the BB. Normal V2 gearboxes break because of this really easily. Especially if you put a stronger spring to compensate. G&G gearbox is okay but it won't do any good to that either. You can use a V2 fix for that but it would be much better to use a matching cylinder.

I'm going here on Saturday: http://milsimairsoft.co.uk/#/events/4522671087

In Hong Kong, everything is possible:

I remember that i is a valid way to hold a long gun in CQB situations if you have to go there with it. I can't remember if it was the AK or the M16 (with full stock), but I definitely saw it taught like that to real soldiers. Searching for photos...

I have been in the situation once where I was wearing ghillie and they spot my face so it can be handy. However that happened only once in the seven years I've been playing. Might not worth the fuss.

And after this happened as it happened, I bet if the sniper is in a similar situation, he would wait for the exact MED and shoot where the sun don't shine. He would be within the rules.

He didn't shoot you. Not because sniper weapons can't hit you that close, but because he was minding your safety. It's only fair to respect not only this, but that he was better than you and he got you by surprise. And yes, he should have had a secondary.

Surprisingly the heavier BBs aren't slower. On very close ranges the lighter BBs are faster but they loose speed much quicker and in our typical ranges heavier BBs have the same or even shorter flight time.

I wouldn't go for that vest. It's too specific. If you get something with molle and in OD or coyote color you will be able to use that for any other BDU or gear.

It takes a lot of fiddling to put together a decent DMR - or actually any really good performing gun. Meaning: shops usually don't do it. They put some good internal parts into it and hope that does the job well enough that the user won't return the next week. Usually they don't have the time/interest/loving a DMR needs.

In my opinion it also defined by how you use the gun. I consider my playing style as DM even though I only use a red dot and a 350 fps aeg. I only use single shot, careful aiming, and my gun usually outperforms most AEGs as it has carefully selected internals.

The rubber and barrel are VSR compatible so you have plenty upgrades to choose from. The other parts of it are good as they are. Actually you don't even have to change these at the beginning either. I think taiwangun.com or gunfire.pl has it. I don't know if they two-tone it or not.

Currently the best buy sniper gun is A&K M24. It already has steel trigger mechanism. A few tweaks, a good hopup rubber, a barrel and you are good to go. However I usually recommend sniping to more experienced players. It is nothing like in the computer games. Play at least one year with AEG before taking up sniping or you will be really disappointed. The L96 without upgrade is just as accurate as a bad AEG. There is no hopup rubber available for it as far as I know so it is a pain in the *ss to get real accuracy out of it. You can get a hopup chamber for a lot of money that uses AEG rubber but that will get only AEG accuracy tops. You should go for a VSR based system - like the A&K M24.

True. For me, red dot FTW. Most people just start shooting and correct the aim depending where the BBs hit. In that case any optic is just in the way.

Use polycarbonate. 2mm thick at least.

It's WE not Well. They are very different companies. Edit: highoctane was faster.

Then that's a souluton to this problem too. Give it to CaptainSwoop's dad.

You can try with a torx key.

V2 gearbox and M4 hopup is the worst possible choice for a DMR. V2 is veak - you need an aluminum CNC version if you want it really strong, and the m4 hopup is the least accorate of them all. I would use an M14 platform. That is the best choice for a DMR - and also the smallest GB so you can fit it in any custom body.

Isn't daytona (and ghk, etc) just make a drop-in kit in place of the gearbox? IMHO that would successfully combine the negative things of both types. Basically you describe a kind of HPA kit but HPA would be created by a compressor in the gun.

Tanio koba barrels have similar inner as rifled barrels but they work differently. As Russe11 said, they work with lower powered guns and actually not really better than a good precision barrel. They create smooth airflow around the BB.