Samurai

IMO get a domain+site and set up a web content framework on it, like Wordpress. Usually this is done with one click. From that point you only have to manage the content, not the code of the software.

Nope. And that's an other reason I probably won't print one for someone else. It's 3-5mm thick ABS so it should be very very tough. The only thing I'm concerned about when it comes to face protection is the teeth protection and that steel mesh has proven to be up for the task many times.

The model is something I just downloaded. It's a mempo, and those all have a grin.

3D printed, painted and steel mesh glued in.

Load bearing vests to keep your stuff on you, easily accessible. If you use more than just one hi-cap a chocolate bar in a day.

No need for that. A vsr g-spec has about a 30cm barrel and it's accurate as hell.

Apart from the eyepro, I would take gloves, shemag, boots.

That guy is an airsofter. Clothes are too clean. (Yes, I know he is'nt.)

I would buy Tokyo Marui (the company) and I would order them to make two full steel G3s. One AEG and one GBBR.

Have you changed any parts in the GB?

Yes, Poland, No. You really should use the search function.

IMO stop spending money on parts you can only guess. Get it to an airsoft mechanic and he will fix it for sure and charge you only the needed parts apart from the service fee. Bring it to WD or airsoftplaza or the mechanic in your area.

The household FDM 3d printers are not very good for airsoft. You can print some external parts and then sand and paint it to look fine. It's a lot of work. So it's not like you download an airsoft gun, print it and skirmish it. It's also not a very good choice if you want to print something that can be bought. By the time you design it, print it, refine it, sand it, paint it, it's not really worth it. It's good for prototyping and creating your own designs. I have printed a gas block for my G3 without the sights so I can use lower scope mounts. I printed a mount to put a red dot on the scope too. I printed ranger plates for the G3 mags. I'm printing a face mask now. I tried to print a frontset but that didn't work, it warped. So it's fun but you can't really print things that would worth the price of the printer. SLA printers on the other hand would work fine to create parts suitable for airsoft. You don't need to buy one, there are print shops with SLA printers.

Gloves are very important. Not only they protect the fingers from shots, they protect you when laying down, climbing through things, or going through bushes. I don't like helmets, and I don't like too bulky face protection either. Get a mesh mask, and eye protection, a shemag scarf and some cap IMO.

Silicone grease. Just a tiny tiny bit.

The iron sight is really not needed here.

Lipos hold the charge for quite long. Much longer than NiMh. Keeping them fully charged puts stress on them, hence the "store" setting on lipo chargers.

Don't do that. If you charge it fully and store it that way, eventually the lipo will get puffy. Use it at the game, don't overuse it (don't use it until the gun gets slow) and store it until the next game - if it's within about 2 months. Charge it fully before the game. If you use it too much so the gun gets slower, then charge it on the "store" setting. It charges the batery up to about 60% capacity if I remember correctly.

I had a similar battery holder on my old red dot. On that, when I removed the battery, there was a metal ring around it, with two notches in it. I used a seeger plier to turn it. Once removed a bottom plate came out, and there were 6 small screws that could be tightened. Don't tighten them too much, you won't be able to turn the dial.

Maybe just a BB stuck inside?

There is a coiled spring that turns that wheel. You wind up the spring by turning the other wheel at the bottom of the mag. (Yes, those are 2 wheels on one axis). When there is no more room to push the BBs up, they don't get pushed up. When some room frees up (you shoot), the spring turns the wheel some more to feed new BBs. When there spring fully unwinds, it won't feed the BBs, you need to wind it again.

Red dots are parallax compensated. Meaning you don't focus your eyes on the red dot, but you focus your eyes on the target and then will the red dot (or crosshair) look sharp. Open both eyes, look at the target and then raise the gun with the sight in your view.

There are Krinkovs in 7.62 too. They are Bulgarian made.

It's on page 1 here but here it is with before and after images:

I smeared some really sticky mud on mine and wiped it off with a wet rug. Now the dry mud is in every little corner and dent and looks awesome.