Samurai

The household FDM 3d printers are not very good for airsoft. You can print some external parts and then sand and paint it to look fine. It's a lot of work. So it's not like you download an airsoft gun, print it and skirmish it. It's also not a very good choice if you want to print something that can be bought. By the time you design it, print it, refine it, sand it, paint it, it's not really worth it. It's good for prototyping and creating your own designs. I have printed a gas block for my G3 without the sights so I can use lower scope mounts. I printed a mount to put a red dot on the scope too. I printed ranger plates for the G3 mags. I'm printing a face mask now. I tried to print a frontset but that didn't work, it warped. So it's fun but you can't really print things that would worth the price of the printer. SLA printers on the other hand would work fine to create parts suitable for airsoft. You don't need to buy one, there are print shops with SLA printers.

Gloves are very important. Not only they protect the fingers from shots, they protect you when laying down, climbing through things, or going through bushes. I don't like helmets, and I don't like too bulky face protection either. Get a mesh mask, and eye protection, a shemag scarf and some cap IMO.

Silicone grease. Just a tiny tiny bit.

The iron sight is really not needed here.

Lipos hold the charge for quite long. Much longer than NiMh. Keeping them fully charged puts stress on them, hence the "store" setting on lipo chargers.

Don't do that. If you charge it fully and store it that way, eventually the lipo will get puffy. Use it at the game, don't overuse it (don't use it until the gun gets slow) and store it until the next game - if it's within about 2 months. Charge it fully before the game. If you use it too much so the gun gets slower, then charge it on the "store" setting. It charges the batery up to about 60% capacity if I remember correctly.

I had a similar battery holder on my old red dot. On that, when I removed the battery, there was a metal ring around it, with two notches in it. I used a seeger plier to turn it. Once removed a bottom plate came out, and there were 6 small screws that could be tightened. Don't tighten them too much, you won't be able to turn the dial.

Maybe just a BB stuck inside?

There is a coiled spring that turns that wheel. You wind up the spring by turning the other wheel at the bottom of the mag. (Yes, those are 2 wheels on one axis). When there is no more room to push the BBs up, they don't get pushed up. When some room frees up (you shoot), the spring turns the wheel some more to feed new BBs. When there spring fully unwinds, it won't feed the BBs, you need to wind it again.

Red dots are parallax compensated. Meaning you don't focus your eyes on the red dot, but you focus your eyes on the target and then will the red dot (or crosshair) look sharp. Open both eyes, look at the target and then raise the gun with the sight in your view.

There are Krinkovs in 7.62 too. They are Bulgarian made.

It's on page 1 here but here it is with before and after images:

I smeared some really sticky mud on mine and wiped it off with a wet rug. Now the dry mud is in every little corner and dent and looks awesome.

Drill a hole to the left side and use a QD sling swivel? You might have to remove a bit from the thickness too - I did that with a angle grinder. I modded the sling mount hole on the other side to use QD swivel, but I see no reason you wouldn't be able to do it on this side.

You own it but you can't import it. That means: you can't bring it into the country without defense.

There was an interesting Stalker game not long ago in my old country I've read about. It was a 2 or 3 days game and you had to carry all your stuff. At the start you gave your guns to the merchant (an in game marshall), and you got some cans of food. You could get missions from the merchant and also you could find maps that showed locations of stashes (canned food and artifacts mostly). You could buy your weapons for food, but I think there was some fake money also in the game. You could trade with the others and of course you could loot them too. And yeah, you could eat the food because there was no other food in game.

Both the upper and lower receivers are quite different.

I'm experimenting with a scope and red dot on top combo. For that to work I need a low mount for the scope and that means that the G3's front sight is in the field of view. So I designed and printed this to solve the problem:

The problem is with posting that gun here. The first time I got that two-toned gun shipped here, the package has been opened and the letter was missing so customs took a look. You can't import RIF without defense.

The problem is not with the deans connector but with the soldering technique. Something like this:

Hello mate, I brought my gun here before I had my ukara registration. I two-toned it (painted a spare stock and front set bright green) and also brought the normal parts. Then on site I switched them before the game, and then back after the game. That is the legal way to do it. After the 3 games I got the ukara registration and got the rest of the guns shipped here. Each time I wrote a letter about the guns (what it is, why is it green/why not, etc), and my contact details and put it in the package.

They are pretty useless as the guys pointed out. Except for the one I'm about to sell. That's super awesome, gives you +10 charisma too.

I use 0.28 for about 345fps, sometimes 0.30. Much more accurate but obviously somewhat more expensive. But since it's more accurate you don't use that much.

And having a TBB in that gun won't really help much. Use heavy and good quality BBs, that's how you get accuracy. I recommend a red dot too.

Maybe this one: