Samurai

Then why exactly do you want a weapon? If you don't know which you want, or why you want it, you probably won't use it.

You can cut with anything that doesn't squeeze the barrel. After that as straffham said, you need to crown the barrel, preferably with a crowning tool or a turning machine. Also note that you must have a matching cylinder installed to the new barrel length. Cheaper band V2 gearboxes easily crack if the cylinder's capacity is bigger than the barrel's. Even better bands will do that with 11.1 lipo or strong springs, or metal piston heads, etc...

It is a balancer charger. It only connects with the balance (little white) connector. Each cell is charged separately. Keep it on until all three leds are green. If there is a probem with a cell, then the corresponding led blinks red. This charger operates on a bit low current level meaning it is slow. It charges a battery in quite a few hours. If the battery has never been balanced, it is very well possible that the cells are on a different level, and one of them is above the "charged" voltage (4.2V if I remember correctly). If you had a multimeter you could measure each cell's voltage to check it.

If it's this one, then it's a standard B3 and it is balancing. It only has the balancer plug. If it doesn't blink then it's charging. (On the side note: holy cr*p £20 for a B3? You can get that from ebay for £6,89 with a different sticker.)

No. The first column is the fps measured with 0.20g BBs. Heavier BBs will fly farther form the same weapon. They start at lower speed but they loose their speed slower. They even reach the target faster from about 30-40 meters and up. As for the original question: these values seem to be valid according to my experience.

As always, I recommend A&K M24. Clean it, use it. There is plenty of upgrade capacity in it for later. But yeah, if you can get an unmodified TM, that is the best. I started with a Well MB06. Quite cr*p. I had L96 one or two, still quite bad. I have an upgraded Bar-10. This one is great. Both the Bar-10 and the A&K M24 take VSR parts (mostly) and that is still the best sniper platform. What Mr Monkey Nuts said is very true. You have to be prepared to absolutely suck at the first dozen of games. On my first sniper game my only success was that I got my crosshairs on one guy (and missed the shot). I couldn't even aim at anyone else, and by that time I already had a few years of experience with my aeg. Ok, it was milsim, but that gives the idea how different sniping is to "aeging". On my second game I could shoot one guy, and then gradually I became better and better. I'm still not good.

Cyma is one of the best. The internals are really-really great. The current models have even stronger gearbox. The early versions were exact TM copy so after a power upgrade they could crack. I don't know about the externals, I only had normal M14s.

Also note that the "long tube of foam" you are referring to might be pipe insulation - this is the grey thing you see in most diy stores - is closed cell foam. That means air and thus sound can't travel through it, so it won't reduce the sound.

If there are fire teams (a couple of guys who stick together during game) ask one of them if you can accompany them because you are new. That's a great way to make friends and learn airsoft at the same time.

You can paint it over.

As straffham said: if you have cleaned it, adjusted the hopup and sights, and you're using fine BBs, and still not good compared to other guns, change the hopup rubber to a new one. That would fix it. Tightbore barrel only improves accuracy if the factory barrel is damaged.

Welcome. I went here once and it was a very fine milsim event: http://milsimairsoft.co.uk/#

No it doesn't. It has a modified v3. You didn't do any damage firing it locked back.

Have you cleaned it?

KAC PDW. Awesome little gun.

I had all of these. The best I found is an adjustable 2 point sling. With one pull, you can make it longer or shorter. One end is on the base of the stock. The other end is either on the barrel end of the gun as a classic 2 point sling, or in the other end of the sling, making it a one point sling.

Make sure you pull the trigger all the way every time.

Yes, for that it's perfect. Anything more than 2-300 yards in the woods you will need a more powerful one. For example a milsim game. Well, except that it's only compatible with it's own earpiece.

You shouldn't cut that much from a spring. It will be too short. It will shoot but after the cylinder impact it will bounce back, and that's not very good.

The Motorola is only 0.5W, it's range will only be enough on skirmishes.

Exactly like that. On the bright side, no one uses ctcss except if you have your own team, then you can agree on a channel/ctcss or 2 in case the other isn't free and you still have 6 channels unused.

You will have to program the 16 available channels as needed.

Only the ppl on the same ctcss will hear you and the ones on the main channel.

Until recently I've played 7-8 hour non-stop games. Earlier I brought 2 sandwiches and about 2 bars of small chocolates in case energy runs out. Then I read, that you don't actually need that and I gave it a try. Turned out you really don't need food for an 8 hour long non-stop game actually. You have a normal breakfast, and after the game of course you are hungry but during the game you don't feel hunger and you don't need any food to have the energy. Just drink a lot if you are tired, that's it. In the last 1-2 years I didn't bring any food with me and it was actually a relief not to worry about lunch.

The airsoft fields usually are in the middle of nowhere. If you transmit with 4W you will be transmitting about 3 miles (because of the terrain and the trees). Doesn't disturb anyone as long as you stick with the pmr frequencies. If you use 0.5W pmr, your range is 2-300m. That's fine for a skirimish, but nothing more.