Adolf Hamster

pretty much as bigstew says. the magazine is generally the best, if not only, location to put a reservoir that's large enough to handle a few dozen shots (ymmv depending on how well setup the gun is) and as a side benefit the reservoir will be refreshed with every reload. generally for airsofters running a gas blowback is more for fun than practicality and we accept slower reloads as the trade off for that. it's worth remembering airsoft's idea of a perfect cqb weapon is a pistol with an m4 magazine hanging off the bottom (which in airsoft means capacity in the 100-500 round region depending on the type of magazine used) so you just never reload. there are systems that try to strike a balance, for example daytonagun kits (using an external tank with a line), tippmann's m4 (again with external line), or systems like the tm recoil or higher end DAS, which depending on your budget might do what you want.

she's one of the Real sword ones, so the reticle dials do indeed adjust, although the range of motion isn't massive. afaik they're basically chinese pso's with the markings replaced for russian, certainly it's a very solid unit.

evening all. figured i'd throw a quick appraisals thread out see if i'm in the right ballpark: first up we have ourselves a WE GBB SVD. she's had the maple leaf barrel/hop treatment in the name of lobbing .48's and an npas, otherwise pretty much stock with a couple of tweaks mostly in the name of improving bolt lockback reliability and mag wobble. been fielded a few times but not a particularly high round count, reckon maybe sub 2k rounds total including testing. comes with 8 mags none of which appear to be leaking, spare "low flow" nozzle, spare feedlips/gas routers, and a pair of the WE "Strong" tube-style loaders that are definitely required (feed lips are comically large on this gun) included (but possibly splitting) is an RS PSO-1 scope, comes with carry bag, spare eyecup, lens cover, spare illuminator bulbs and cleaning brush. the illuminator sometimes needs the bulb twiddled in the mount to get a good electrical connection but other than that she works perfectly. thinking somewhere in the region of £600 for the full package, or split the scope for £150 (i can't even find them for sale new to reference but i have £300 rattling around in my head) next is an ATN MK350 Gen1(+?) night vision scope, all 3 tonnes of it. comes with mounts for ak/svd siderails and picatinny, uniquefire IR torch on offset picatinny mount (with end-cap or pressure pad switches), carry bag and a few miscellaneous bits. don't know what the total hours for her are, but she works just fine (well, by the standards of a gen 1 unit). hasn't seen much field use in my hands simply due to a lack of night games. something like £150 for the whole package? now we have a WE CT25 been fielded a few times, mostly for when i'm in the mood for shaming people outdoors. impressively hilarious range for a 0.5j meme gun although gas efficiency on this one is a whole mag if you're lucky. mag holds green gas (nuprol 2.0 level) just fine but doesn't like anything heavier(red/black), has a spare mag which is pretty much boneyard (tried to fix the leaky baseplate seal and failed) comes in original box: something like £50-60? and finally we have a very battle weary jg aksu, originally a recoil model although the recoil has long been removed. internally she's running a warfet and ASG basic motor (stock evo motor), and a randomised mix of internals. at the time of writing she's a bit poorly, think it's just the precocking set a bit high but will sort that out before listing the ad, certainly accuracy wise she's always punched above her weight. externally, well she's been through the wars, patched up and sent right back to the front. i've appliied many fixes to minimise wobble (such as the brass ring to hold the lower handguard, some rubber in the stock bracket etc) but she's never going to be a looker. comes with 10 mags, the 6 orange mags are standard cyma mids, they've been well used though so a couple of them the springs might be a bit on the worn side. the 4 brown mags are also cymas but they were harvested for their springs, so while the body's are in great shape the springs are stock e&l and aren't the greatest. also comes with the pictured generic siderail and amazon special red dot, works as well as an amazon special red dot would be expected to. something like £75 for the lot?

I'm a sucker for blued steel, and i like the feel of a gun with a bit of heft to it. That's pretty much it, i think alloy on an ak is too reminiscent of the old jg/cyma rentals which whilst i wont deny are good shooters for the cash they dont age all that well.

Its a tricky one, the we (and now tm) ones seem better designs out of the box (granted the we is spoiled by poor materials) with the full stroke dead mans click. But then folks buying a high end ak are kinda gonna want steel. I suppose if it gets the popularity the mws did then aftermarket recievers are a possibility. Certainly its a deal breaker for me, even on a 74

This is a fair point, i'm assuming if its not rs fitment it wont be long before aftermarket wood is available. Hence asking about the reciever, the one part thats gonna be hardest to change.

pretty much any aeg is possible to hpa, the question is how difficult it'll be to acheive. a standard cylinder drop-in like the f2 would be the obvious choice, it'll come with either a v2 or v3 triggerboard but if the gun is doing something weird you can use a plugboard and wire in to the original trigger contacts. the only other area will be nozzle length. you can either find one for a gun with a similar length, get a longer nozzle and machine it down yourself, or send the measurements to polarstar who can make custom nozzles to order. there may be some fettling required- filing off stuff on the inside if it's catching on the gearbox, drilling holes for airline/cable routing etc. i still hold the f2 is the best all-rounder engine on the market currently in terms of offering the level of tunability you'd want from the likes of a fusion engine, with the flexibility to be dropped into a much wider array of guns.

guess the all important question is what's the reciever made of? i for one would find anything less than blued steel on such a gun a bit of a deal breaker

you mean the early lee rifles? iirc werent they 2 magazines- one chained to the gun and 1 spare. idea being you single loaded it unless you needed the magazine for a cavalry charge or such.

even better if you stick them in the branches of trees so they wave around a bit. the streams of tracers and the cries of constarnation are very enjoyable.

i think the intention of the statement was that if you have something more niche, you could either wait for a buyer who understands its value and wants it, or keep dropping the price to widen the market to sell it quicker. if you take the latter route you would be selling it for less than it's market value, but it's a price paid for the benefit of a quicker sale. i was kinda surprised when i was selling the 42 for example that it sold relatively quickly, i'd been mentally preparing myself for a long wait as it's a relatively niche item and anyone who "just wants an lmg" would be buying the myriad m249's and m60's that were cheaper.

interesting, always figured it was just because they cost money.

you're right, once i had a little think about it i remembered how it's inverted when looking at the left side. we all have our derp moments once in a while

that just shows another hole for dirt to get in!

is that image flipped? looks like the bevel is on the right-hand side of the box, it's normally on the left? also what the hell is going on with that massive hole in the side of the box? looks like dirt city

not really familiar enough with the g&p recievers to offer any tips there, it's entirely possible the box has been pulled before but the same box reinstalled, broken dust covers are a very common thing for the ar platform, could even be as simple as pulling the upper to clear a jam from the hop could cause that. if you pop some pics of the rest of the gun/reciever someone might be able to chime in recognising it. the tricky one with piston teeth is often they can have the first tooth removed for engagement. usually your "standard" is a 15 tooth (https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/pistons/ra-15-tooth-piston), however with the first pickup tooth removed you end up with a 14 tooth (https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/pistons/rocket-14-5-tooth-full-piston) you can also get the likes of the 14.5 tooth which has only half of the first tooth removed. that's not to be confused with short-stroking, where teeth from the front of the piston are removed to reduce the distance it travels (teeth are also removed from the sector gear), that's usually done for high speed builds to prevent premature engagement (when the sector spins so fast it goes full circle before the piston has moved all the way forwards). in general they tend to be pretty standard, although as with all things airsoft sometimes you'll get one that's slightly too wide for a given gearbox which ends up tight. my go-to would be the likes of the shs 14 tooth. the one that might be tricky is the piston head, i have it rattling around somewhere in my memory that the g&p's are a different bore to standard? it's been a while since i've worked on one so i could be thinking of another brand.

tbh there doesn't appear to be anything wrong with that gearbox internally that a clean, regrease and the usual air seal/shimming/aoe checks wouldn't solve. have a look here for a general idea of things to be looking for: trigger contacts fouling up is very common, a powerful battery will make it happen faster/risk burning them through, but it'll happen to any standard wired gun if used long enough. the solution to that is a mosfet, either something basic (like the nanoasr) will just protect the contacts or something fancy (eg the warfet) will give you the fancy precocking etc. ^pretty much what i'd be thinking of doing, also all those things are conveniently available from https://www.ak2m4.co.uk, and no he's not paying me to plug that link. it really depends on your priority, wether you just want to get it working or if you want to get her up to a good shooter. that piston isn't in the worst condition, definately usable but i'd probably look to swap it out anyway, but then i'm obsessed with accuracy so anything less than perfect air seal is a no-go for me. also perhaps consider treating her to a nice zci 6.02, ml macaron and omega nub. assuming the gun it came out of is also a g&p then you're looking at a pretty sweet m4 all things considered.

think that was @gasman? dont recall him testing bio's specifically. regardless: is the truth that should be adhered to.

holy bore offset batman j/k i run russian optics, i know both sides of the argument

that may also be a factor.....

i'm kinda the same, dealing with a flat 1j limit i'd rather put the effort into getting an assault rifle up to the same standards then at least i have auto if required. however, some sneaky play with a bolty can be fun if you're in the right mood. especially when you don't need to worry about med.

i do tend to go spur first, but that's more to place a limit on the range in which i can shim the pinion to (eg if the idler needs say 0.3mm under it then i can't put the bevel lower than that). problem is when that limit isn't enough, or as in this case even with the smallest possible amount under the bevel it's not ideal.

so the kid was banned from the flight for (accidentally?) sending a picture of an airsoft glock, in a country where the legal civilian ownership of glocks is a thing let alone legal ownership of toy replicas of aforementioned glock, which wasn't even his? man folks overreact these days......