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Adolf Hamster

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Everything posted by Adolf Hamster

  1. you can try, but i'm afraid the odds of not resulting in a leak that defeats the purpose of changing are not good
  2. eh, not sure i'd wanna tinker with mag feeding, sounds like jam city waiting to happen.
  3. 1.5mm is too much, but i dont think a g&g is gonna be any shorter?
  4. Can i just put forward this thought: We're on an airsoft forum arguing which star trek captain was the best. We have acheived peak nerd..... Yes i know i started it.....
  5. need to keep reminding myself this is a thing.
  6. even if it was, surely the mags are gonna be setup for (i'm assuming) 4.5mm?
  7. watch them both singing then tell me kirk is better......
  8. that's the thing, a joule is a joule, it doesn't hit any harder than anything else on the field up close.
  9. Standard 3-axis? What kind of bed size? If thats what he's charging to custom machine a slide i have a feeling i might have some (non hicapa) related work for him at some point.
  10. Hpa'd, at 1j no less. Didnt do it often for obvious reasons, but yes a speedsofter spec m4 carbine with .48's turns outdoor airsoft into a point and click adventure. Good fun once you've drowned out the audible "ker ching" every time you pull the trigger 😛 Even run them in a makarov at 0.7j, although gave that up when i realise i was changing loading nozzles half as often as i was changing magazines and i cant shoot a pistol that well anyway. That reminds me must check if the aksu can lift .48's.....
  11. For outdoor cant say i've heard of places having ammo weight limits. America maybe as a (dumb) solution to joule creep in hpa's Run up to .48's plenty of times never any issue, if the gun is kosher then it shouldnt really matter what weight you run.
  12. I know man, spent 3 years in denial that the mg42 just needed the hpa conversion tweakee and it was nothing to do with it being really impractical to actually use......
  13. it's an interesting idea, if you've got the kit to do it to a decent standard (read: it'll fit and work) then i can see a lot of merit in this at that kind of price. of course wether or not the economics work out to allow you to do this for that kind of money is a different story, you've either got a lot of expensive machines sitting around or are going to be putting a lot of man-hours in. that said, if you've got the kit lying around, custom machined parts at reasonable prices would be a godsend for certain folks of the serial tinkering persuasion.
  14. yeah but it's coffee, it'll still taste like you just scraped the burnt bits off your toast into a mug and mixed it with water. gimme a nice chai or earl grey any day
  15. because no matter how much you deny it, even to yourself, you get a kick out of players being scared of you cos you're carrying a big ass gat.
  16. by hands-free i'm assuming you're meaning head mounted? as above any system that needs an illuminator to work (digital or gen 1) is going to be an issue for airsoft given the chances of someone else having night vision (and serious kit at that). the thermal might be beneficial depending on how good the resolution is, are we talking a blob at 20 metres or being able to spot flecks of heat hidden through bushes at a decent distance? it's also worth bearing in mind that anyone not running night vision in an airsoft game is gonna have a bright-ass torch strapped to their gun which they can and will be shining in your face, so not having the unit damaged or user blinded by that is a consideration.
  17. if you get the air seal issues sorted out (a nice low shot-shot variation on the chrono) then a stronger spring wouldn't be a bad shout if you've got a bit of headroom before hitting the site limit. you'll also need to do that if you're short-stroking.
  18. if it's happening badly then it tends to be pretty obvious with a drop in fps in auto (right before the even more obvious symptom where the piston spits its teeth all over the inside of the box) in the lighter cases it can be kinda hard to diagnose, tbh on 20rps at 1j i wouldn't have said you'd be getting it even with a full stroke cylinder.
  19. make sure to get the length right, whilst you can cut/file down a nozzle to the right length unless you're using a decent lathe to do it you'll almost always end up with sealing issues (which defeats the purpose of the better nozzle)
  20. that's a new one to me, been using alu/brass nozzles for years never had a bucking shred that wasn't the result of some hair-brained tinkering i was doing. not that there's anything wrong with polymer nozzles (outside of high fps applications) either.
  21. isn't that just the thing with the specna's though, they started off pretty damn good then went downhill? yep they both work. i normally go for the maple leaf macaron+omega nub, however some guns can have feeding issues with the slightly longer feedlips on the ml stuff so the PDI W would be my go-to for those situations. g&g green is decent, really depends how heavy the ammo you wanna use is. yeah but them 2m is exactly where buggers like me are standing it's true though, all it takes is the site's chrono after years of living in a damp shed and filled with the schrapnel of innumerable tube strikes to be innaccurate and the site will go "nope you're 1fps over get out of here you filthy cheating scum" being a little bit under is preferable to not being allowed to play. overspin is the motor/gears having enough momentum to haul your gears around for a second time, PME is the sector spinning so fast it does a full circuit before the piston has finished moving forwards. overspin isn't strictly a problem, although it is generally a sign that the box is spinning fast, which is the same root cause as PME. overspin can be fixed with mosfets that use active braking. if you're planning on short stroking and are worried about volume take a look at the port on the cylinder- you need the piston to be going at least that far back.
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