Adolf Hamster

as davegolf put so well you really want to be using it for a while before thinking of making changes. you need to have clear objectives in terms of what the gun is/isn't doing within the realms of how you use it. for example i could list a bunch of stuff that would improve range/accuracy but if you're playstyle has you constantly up close and personal then it'd be wasted effort. the cheapest "upgrades" that are pretty much universally applicable are keep the barrel clean- at least before every game day you want to be making sure its spotless. the other thing is to be using good quality ammo, best gun in the world will shoot like shit if you're giving it bad food.

if the receiver is in good nick and there's nothing wacky going on in the design (eg recoil etc) then just wholesale replacing the gearbox is a viable strategy. replacement boxes aren't that expensive (comparatively speaking) for example: https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/gearboxes-complete/ec-complete-gearbox-qd-v2-rear however if she's cycling and just has low fps then there's a limited list of candidates that could be the cause. i'm probably not the right person to talk to about electrical fuckups...... i tend to advocate doing your own tech work as it's a good set of skills to learn, and can (in the long run) save you a lot of headaches wether you've got a gun brand new or secondhand.

without wishing to sound too blunt, but i'd consider finding a different tech. or, take this gun as an opportunity to have a go yourself- if you've already consigned it to be a wallhanger then the worst outcome of fucking up trying to fix it is it'll still be a wallhanger. as for dissapointing guns, think this qualifies: up until that point i'd been under the impression lct and e&l were pretty much equals, but that shattered my illusions. i suppose in lct's defence the quality isn't so much bad as simply not as good as the competition, but they do plenty of models (ie not ak's) where that doesn't apply.

agreed. gotta love the "reply now" demand thrown in at the end, if anything that'd make me wait for no other reason than spite. i do wonder what goes on in people's heads when they write like that, how do they think they're coming across? do they really think it's making them look good? maybe i'm over-analyzing.....

urgh that does annoy me. if you're going to go down the route of trying to haggle don't expect the seller to cut their own throat and drop the cost for you. you're basically opening a conversation by asking the seller to give you free money for no effort. you might as well just pm random people asking "how much money can you give me?" if you wanna make an offer fine- put a number to it, at least that opens dialogue (even if the dialogue is simply no)

i must admit it does make you think "how many sales ads is this guy responding to that he doesn't have the time to write out properly?" the other thing you get is folk who go silent once you've sent an item, i suppose it's better than a paypal dispute out of the blue but it'd be nice to know they've recieved it at least.

it's possible, depends how tight it is against the piston/spring guide. it's a tricky balance as you don't want it too loose either lest it kinks.

that's my thinking too they can expand under compression, so even if it goes in smooth it can still bind when compressed during the firing cycle.

nope, the rated continuous current is the mah divided by 1000, then multiplied by the C rating. 1450/1000=1.45*30=43.5A 2000/1000=2*25=50A now often batteries can sustain more in short bursts, sometimes it's even stated (if you see 2 C ratings on a pack that's what it means) but it's a general guide. that's a pretty good example, taking the ratings at face value at least. notice how it even specifies a 100C burst current. however also look at the dimensions- its a literal big battery and has the size to match. needless to say this is a problem if, like your gun, battery compartment space is at a premium. wether or not you're happy to run a fake peq box, or change the stock or some other modification to allow you to run a larger battery is up to you. bearing in mind that the overdraw premise is based on the assumption there's nothing wrong with the 2 battery packs you're currently using, you may wish to test in a different gun just to be sure that's not the problem. tbh, given you say you're mostly dealing in 3 round burst rather than auto, it would probably be better to simply change the motor to a ht (slower and less amp draw) then make up for any loss in trigger response (aka lock time) with a mosfet that allows precocking (not sure if the existing one does or not)

even with the "view all notifications" page? you can go onto your profile and see a list of topics you've replied to, which might help if you did. for example besides this thread the last thread you replied to is here: if you're following without having replied you might just have to search for the thread title or scout the forum manually.

Mah and C rating are both ratings where there's no such thing as overkill. pretty much the only downside to having both numbers as high as possible is the cost, and physical size, of the battery pack.

does it not show up when you click the little bell in the top right corner?

pretty much as asomodai says, switch to the ht motor.

the 11.1v has a continuous current rating of 43.5A and the 7.4v is rated for 50A, burst currents might be higher admittedly. bearing in mind the 11.1 will also be getting more draw from the motor, sounds like you might be over-drawing on the 11.1 which isn't good. only fix for that is a bigger (capacity) battery, higher C rating or a gun that draws less juice (slower motor/lower gear ratio) what sort of rps are you getting? i'm assuming pretty damn fast to the point that slowing it down a tad might not be the worst plan anyway.

whilst i've never worked on that pistol, to answer this question as a general rule sear springs (or, well, any other spring that plays sillybuggers in a gbbr) that doesn't play ball are installed by a combination of various adapted tools and a very liberal application of vernacular. aka, you poke and swear at it until it works. whilst often there can be a trick to it i swear some gbb pistol mechanisms are designed to be assembled by people with more than the normal number of fingers.

you can do both- tracer unit inside a suppressor. or a hop-up tracer unit will let you run whatever muzzle device you want kinda depends on your preference, personally i prefer a mock suppressor look to the way tracer units are on their own. but there's no real right/wrong way to do it when it comes to pure aesthetics- if you like it then do it.

sadly we can't, it's what's put me off the hobby tbh as over lockdown kinda reached the conclusion this state of affairs will never change as long as it's a game played by humans. i mean even in the controlled and enforced ruleset of a video game people will creatively exploit/cheat various mechanics. does depend on the game. I'd have loved a decent variant on trouble in terrorist town but literally every single time I've convinced a site to try it you get a minimum of one person treats it like a free for all deathmatch regardless of wether or not they're a traitor. then sites implement rules like "if you shoot someone on your own team it's you that dies" which leads to a riot between people who understand that concept and people that dont. i do love the concept of medics, and i can see how it would be a great mechanic, but it's reliant on the medic playing to the role which isn't guaranteed. looping back to my first point i'm afraid not. reckon the best a site can hope for even if they actually put effort into enforcing their given rulesets and developing a reputation as such is to ensure the core regular player base is good. at least assuming they don't fall down the rabbit hole of favoritism that is..... but it still just takes one group from a different site to show up and ruin everything, whether it's intentionally partaking in the popular creative game mechanics or blanket assuming the rules they're used to apply at the site they're playing at. for example the number of times i've heard things like "where i play headshots dont count", "most sites i go to gun-hits are a kill", "friendly fire does/doesn't count" or "i don't do bang kills" when on the actual site they're playing on those rules are different/don't exist. granted sites are as much to blame for this, given how some of the more fluid rules (enforced/voluntary/prohibited bang kills being a good example) are so rarely actually stated clearly or are changed on a game by game basis.

problem with using video games as inspiration is that mechanics that work well in games when enforced automatically such as being able to respawn at captured points don't work in airsoft where you can guarantee at least one person will either through ignorance or cuntishness respawn at an enemy held point and proceed to wipe everyone out. at least every game i've played with capturable respawns that's what happened.

he does say he did it because he didn't like the original finish, which is believable as folk do indeed recolor slides for that reason. front sight just looks like a preference thing, he even says it might not be to everyone's tastes. *dons flamesuit* besides, it's a glock, someone will put a speedtacticalpointdefendertigerdragon slide on it with some uberacquireultrabritespeedshot fibre optic sights on it, add a red dot which blocks the sights spend 5 hours with a soldering iron burning the frame for extra grip so they can hip-fire with a 50-round extendo clipazine. sorrynotsorry

yeah, hard to tell from the pics. tbf if it was 2-tone it's been hidden well and if you were going to change from the green well you'd be repainting anyway. this is a fair point, as much as there's dreaming going on with the price at least he has plenty of information for a buyer to make a decision over.

it is a multitude of sins, struggling to think of what else you could do.

stripping a box isn't the worst thing once you get used to it. mainly you're talking fighting many sproingy bits at once (quick release mainspring helps a lot with that issue) and getting stuff all lined up etc. i still strongly advise leaving the box alone unless you have a backup gun around, but then having insisted on learning that lesson the hard way myself i know that's how some folk have to do it. however if you do then you can find some tips on the more common checks eg airseal here, some of the bits are a tad out of date, eg better using a spacer disk for aoe than putting things in the cylinder: remember to keep track of where the shims are placed unless you plan on re-shimming. if you do plan on re-shimming then remember to do one final check with the gearbox halves together and bolted up tight before putting the rest of the bits in. although tbh you can get away just fine leaving the shimming/aoe stock in this case and focus on airseal. always measured barrels as total length, you don't need to be too exact as long as you're within ±50mm that's close enough. what can cause an issue is adding/removing a significant length if the gun isn't volumed for it, particularly for shorter barreled guns you'll find ports in the cylinder to reduce the volume to match the barrel. aeg's aren't as sensitive as say HPA's to needing the voluming matched perfectly but it's something to consider. given barrel length (all other factors being equal) within the extremes (ie really short or really long) doesn't impact performance that much (compared to everything else that does eg hop/airseal/ammo/barrel quality) i tend to suggest just matching the stock length for minimum fuss. plus if you keep the stock length it means you can add/remove the suppressor depending on how you feel you want your gun to look on a given day. tl:dr if it were me i'd measure the stock barrel and get the closest length of zci 6.02 stainless to match. hop units themselves can be a tricky one, certainly changing the bucking/nub is a pretty safe option especially for lifting heavier ammo, but if the stock hop unit is holding everything together tightly and is lined up (eg window square over the barrel, no slack in the arm, nub groove isn't at an angle etc) then don't need to worry too much about changing it. rotary style tend to be preferred over the older dial type for fine adjustment, although that can be worked around. in terms of bucking/nub my go-to combo is the maple leaf macaron (green or tan generally) with omega nub, sometimes the slightly longer feedlips can cause feeding issues in which case i'll go with plan b of a PDI W-hop (50°), either are good for the .3g range although for heavier you'd want the maple leaf.

you don't need a longer barrel for range/accuracy, what you need in an inner barrel is quality. as speedbird has pointed out putting effort into good air seal and a decent hop setup is going to yield better results. indeed extending your inner barrel can have voluming issues depending on how mad you go with it which will be counterproductive. of course this requires a teardown of the box which i tend not to advise doing without a spare gun, mess something up in reassembly and it's the walk of shame. also better to do airseal before messing with springs, might well be the spring thats in there has the power and it's just not all of it is going down the barrel after the round. as a rough guide for airseal check your shot-shot variation on the chrono (ie how many fps difference your getting between several shots). however if you want to stick a can on the end of the gun for looks or to house a tracer go for it, but i personally wouldn't change the barrel length all that much. you'll also want to feed it good food, a good gun can't make up for bad ammo. for outdoor work i tend to like in the ~.3g range for assault rifles but going heavier won't hurt the performance (will hurt your wallet though)

so it's missing fire selector parts, bonus points for inclusion of the "it's an easy fix" line. especially given ambi selectors reputation for being a pain in the proverbial. it's has some sort of gearbox work in the past, but no specifics as to the parts or the tech who installed them, which given the range of quality of work you see in this hobby could well see it worse than just stock. barrel extended through the suppressor, not strictly a bad thing in itself but wonder wether it's been volume matched...... descriptions of good firing, which will always need taken with a pinch of salt, even ignoring the bias of the sellers own description it's a perceptive description and what one person thinks is good another may not. broken red dot, un-named magnifier half a sling, apparently you get the other half with a plate carrier? at least you get a magpul stock and larue risr... oh wait..... and this is apparently worth pretty much double the rrp?