Adolf Hamster

just gotta wait for that to run its course i'm afraid. i think that's as much help as we can realistically provide. i did report my original reply just to get the mods attention and they'll be much better placed than we are to help out and dust off the banhammer if necessary.

yep, see here:

did you actually send them money or did they just agree to a sale then pull out? sounds like you're not based in the uk? if so it's possible the seller wasn't willing to post internationally due to the cost/risk, however a legitimate seller would have made this clear and refunded if you'd paid them. however if you paid them and they haven't sent it then that's a scam and i'm sure the mod team would be interested in further information. if you paid via paypal using the goods and services option then you should be thinking about opening a dispute on there as that's the best chance of getting your money back. if you used paypal friends & family or something else like bank transfer then i'm afraid the options are much less fruitful. Needless to say using paypal goods & services for secondhand transactions is strongly recommended for the protection it provides.

right after plymouth...... goddamn if you wanted to burn airsoft to the ground that's one hell of a story to do it with. congrats to the officers involved, hopefully that's one pub they'll never have to pay for a drink in.

an accurate summation. certainly for me i think it was the catalyst that set everything going. ofc doesn't help that life is getting rather fluid at the moment, work is getting very heavy at the minute and the prospect of having to move for work is coming up, so having some extra pennies in the bank and less stuff to worry about is reassuring. maybe once the chaos subsides i'll come back, or maybe i'll move on to pastures new.

I get the feeling. haven't been in months now and it might not have escaped the notice of some that i'm going through the process of flogging gear. originally i'd planned to just drop down to one gun, one rig etc, the bare minimum. but even changed my mind about that and everything's going on the list. i think what killed it for me was coming back after lockdown and running into the same old shit, the non hit takers, the chrono dodgers, the aggressive players and thought to myself "why am i doing this?", it's never going to change, no site is immune, it's just human nature. it's such a lottery, at least for the sites i have access to, as to whether or not a game is going to be enjoyable. you get a good crowd on a good day it's an amazing experience but it doesn't take many assholes to ruin things. which ultimately means you can't guarantee that if you've had a shit week at work, or whatever that going pewing is going to lift your spirits or push them further down. ofc i haven't figured out what i'm gonna do instead, airsoft did strike a beautiful balance as a hobby where kit isn't the hardest to store and transport (compared to say a car or a boat), is affordable (again, compared to say buying a classic car), and combines social, exercise, and nerdy tinkering together (compared to say rc models which round here is pretty much a solo endeavour).

one question that might be relevant here is what sort of budget are you thinking? taking silence as a key priority the logical path to consider is HPA, as that's going to get the minimum possible noise when setup right. it'll also deliver the goods when it comes to precision at least once you've got the hang of programming and have a decent ammo/hop/barrel combo. of course that comes at a cost, both literally in terms of money (although you can spend just as much on an aeg if you're trying) and figuratively in terms of either a reduced shot count for an onboard reservoir or being tethered via an airline (personally i don't think the airline is that bad but some people hate them). you might also be limited by access to compressors.

Could well be. Only really dealt with the advanced because otherwise i'd just run a warfet and not have the hassle.

Afaik they seem to fall into the latter of your categories. They do a nbb makarov which is an excercise in questioning why you'd expend the effort in a world where the mk23 exists

You should really think about getting a link, not being able to program it kinda defeats the point of a programmable mosfet in the first place. Surprised it didnt come with a link to begin with.

Any time i've had silicone on a hop rubber it hasnt taken more than half a mag for it to bed back in. However that said, a hop rubber is a wear item, and lozart has a point that if you ever keep one long enough for it to have issues then just replace it wether it's dozed from age or worn from use.

did you calibrate it in the software? that'll give you a pretty good idea what the unit thinks it's seeing when you move the selector.

snails are just slugs who've made it onto the property ladder. so yes......

guess it depends on how you played the sport. if you were in it more for the tinkering and less about the playing then getting to the endpoint of performance pretty much ends the enjoyment, especially if you've been playing long enough to see the same old problems just go around in circles.

pretty much as above. some aftermarket designs do things differently, modify brand barrels for example skip the brass ring and have it as a machined part of the barrel. likewise the likes of the combat union hop unit uses a collet style system that allows you to properly clamp a barrel in tight. some different style of guns don't use springs, ak's for example tend to use either spacer blocks or have the hop unit bolted directly to the gearbox although you can sometimes bodge a spring in there, or some designs just attempt to have the hop unit sitting tight in the gun (with varying levels of success)

no hpa?

think it's less having the right idea, as more adapting to the requirements/limitations of the platform. standard m4 ergonomics make a lot more sense when you need things like the buffer tube and gas tube for the gun to work and recoil is a thing.

as a general rule the best thing to do for reliability for most airsoft guns is not mess with it. don't think i've ever seen a failure from a truly stock gun, even the "stock" guns i've seen fail are normally the result of an fps downgrade done very shoddily by a retailer (either a really weak spring or the dreaded cylinder hole) yes trigger contacts will be an issue, how long depends on what type of battery your running but a higher powered lipo will burn them out faster, lighter powered batteries you could use it for years and only need the occasional scrape to get the carbon off. i'm not that familiar with aug's (so owners can chime in if i've got this wrong) but you should be dealing with a standard v3 box with wacky trigger externals. the internal contacts for semi will be the ones likely to burn out but *should* be standard components, the externals contacts will be unique although if it is based on the jg then there's probably spares in the wild somewhere. a mosfet is a possibility, and despite the weird trigger external mosfets (eg the gate nano/warfet etc) can be wired in, although wether you want to do that depends on how happy you are weilding a soldering iron. not sure on internal mosfets but that's a bit beyond what you'd be wanting to look at for the time being anyway. otherwise a v3 box is a v3 box and will take your standard gearbox internals no fuss. the hop unit being plastic isn't necessarily bad in and of itself, generally with hop units it's quality and tolerancing trump the given materials. tbh having said all that what i'd seriously suggest you do is this: clean the barrel (bit of microfibre on a plastic cleaning rod) and get in the habit of keeping it clean give it good food don't take it apart don't change or add any bits just play with it as-is once you've gotten established and grabbed yourself another pew then you can start thinking about tinkering. it's not the best idea to go messing around when you don't have a backup and trust me the walk of shame with a broken pew gets old the tenth time you've done it. plus once you've played a bit you'll have a better idea as to what direction you want to take your tinkering in depending on how you naturally end up playing.

you mean magnitude and direction

then various video games had them as a meme gun which kept the party going.

inb4 you were pulling the trigger wrong..... which in fairness is a possibility with a 2-stage

yeah pme tends to be rather dramatic. the other possibility is he's referring to the effect of a partial pre-cock caused by the motor not stopping immediately, pretty much guaranteed to some extent on anything without active brake and all it really does is make the gun a tad more responsive in semi (precocking is pretty much controlled overspin to stop the motor at a defined point right before the piston drops). in extreme cases that can roll over to a second shot which is your double shooting.

does appear that model does do cutoff, which would certainly be a prime suspect. even assuming it's able to properly distinguish between a 7.4v and 11.1v and apply the correct shutoff voltage (ie that it's not shutting off on the 7.4v because it's using the 11.1v cutoff) then it can still be shutting off under load. it's very normal for a battery to have a lower voltage when supplying a given load (ie firing) than what you'd read in a static test. how much lower depends on a variety of factors such as the capacity of the battery, it's C rating and overall quality as well as the draw requirements of the gun itself. the predators may well have a less stringent (including nonexistent) cutoff, or a lower amp draw which would allow the gun to run even if that same battery sets off the lmg's cutoff.

well that is indeed different. i guess it's a case of trading the convenience of quick swapping from whatever your primary is for the inconvenience of having your trousers constantly lop-sided. i mean i find pistols annoying when belt-mounted can't even imagine this.....

four thought? i can barely manage one thought at a time....