Adolf Hamster

stripping a box isn't the worst thing once you get used to it. mainly you're talking fighting many sproingy bits at once (quick release mainspring helps a lot with that issue) and getting stuff all lined up etc. i still strongly advise leaving the box alone unless you have a backup gun around, but then having insisted on learning that lesson the hard way myself i know that's how some folk have to do it. however if you do then you can find some tips on the more common checks eg airseal here, some of the bits are a tad out of date, eg better using a spacer disk for aoe than putting things in the cylinder: remember to keep track of where the shims are placed unless you plan on re-shimming. if you do plan on re-shimming then remember to do one final check with the gearbox halves together and bolted up tight before putting the rest of the bits in. although tbh you can get away just fine leaving the shimming/aoe stock in this case and focus on airseal. always measured barrels as total length, you don't need to be too exact as long as you're within ±50mm that's close enough. what can cause an issue is adding/removing a significant length if the gun isn't volumed for it, particularly for shorter barreled guns you'll find ports in the cylinder to reduce the volume to match the barrel. aeg's aren't as sensitive as say HPA's to needing the voluming matched perfectly but it's something to consider. given barrel length (all other factors being equal) within the extremes (ie really short or really long) doesn't impact performance that much (compared to everything else that does eg hop/airseal/ammo/barrel quality) i tend to suggest just matching the stock length for minimum fuss. plus if you keep the stock length it means you can add/remove the suppressor depending on how you feel you want your gun to look on a given day. tl:dr if it were me i'd measure the stock barrel and get the closest length of zci 6.02 stainless to match. hop units themselves can be a tricky one, certainly changing the bucking/nub is a pretty safe option especially for lifting heavier ammo, but if the stock hop unit is holding everything together tightly and is lined up (eg window square over the barrel, no slack in the arm, nub groove isn't at an angle etc) then don't need to worry too much about changing it. rotary style tend to be preferred over the older dial type for fine adjustment, although that can be worked around. in terms of bucking/nub my go-to combo is the maple leaf macaron (green or tan generally) with omega nub, sometimes the slightly longer feedlips can cause feeding issues in which case i'll go with plan b of a PDI W-hop (50°), either are good for the .3g range although for heavier you'd want the maple leaf.

you don't need a longer barrel for range/accuracy, what you need in an inner barrel is quality. as speedbird has pointed out putting effort into good air seal and a decent hop setup is going to yield better results. indeed extending your inner barrel can have voluming issues depending on how mad you go with it which will be counterproductive. of course this requires a teardown of the box which i tend not to advise doing without a spare gun, mess something up in reassembly and it's the walk of shame. also better to do airseal before messing with springs, might well be the spring thats in there has the power and it's just not all of it is going down the barrel after the round. as a rough guide for airseal check your shot-shot variation on the chrono (ie how many fps difference your getting between several shots). however if you want to stick a can on the end of the gun for looks or to house a tracer go for it, but i personally wouldn't change the barrel length all that much. you'll also want to feed it good food, a good gun can't make up for bad ammo. for outdoor work i tend to like in the ~.3g range for assault rifles but going heavier won't hurt the performance (will hurt your wallet though)

so it's missing fire selector parts, bonus points for inclusion of the "it's an easy fix" line. especially given ambi selectors reputation for being a pain in the proverbial. it's has some sort of gearbox work in the past, but no specifics as to the parts or the tech who installed them, which given the range of quality of work you see in this hobby could well see it worse than just stock. barrel extended through the suppressor, not strictly a bad thing in itself but wonder wether it's been volume matched...... descriptions of good firing, which will always need taken with a pinch of salt, even ignoring the bias of the sellers own description it's a perceptive description and what one person thinks is good another may not. broken red dot, un-named magnifier half a sling, apparently you get the other half with a plate carrier? at least you get a magpul stock and larue risr... oh wait..... and this is apparently worth pretty much double the rrp?

maybe it's just the sites i've been to but i've hardly ever seen a medic role assigned/played properly. eg they hand the medic tag out to the guy with the m60 on the logic that he can't possibly be hard to find, next thing you know you find him crouched behind a barricade beyond front line hosing away ignoring the cries of medic from a dozen players who are all 10m behind him because he's the only guy running .2's or in my case, as a regular flanker you get tagged and there's no point even shouting for a medic as all 5 team medics are clustered together on the other side of the site. ahh yes i get you now. you want something with more meat than the 3 rules that ever get remembered in a regular skirmish but not the extremes at the other end of the scale. i've heard folks mention the likes of filmsim being a thing that's a sort of middle ground, but i've never played anything like that so i'm afraid i can't offer any actual advice on the matter. i have on occasion felt it would be good to have a middle ground where you can have some theming and immersion but with more flexibility so you don't "have" to get XYZ loadout just to be able to participate.

there's always an aspect to a game folk don't like. simple games (for a hobby where understanding the complex rules such as when you get hit your out, don't shoot people after they put their hand up, don't be an ass etc are often too complex for grown men to adhere to) can be handy for preventing undue conflict. However, a fixed respawn team deathmatch wether there's macguffins thrown in or not will always descend into a boring stalemate defined by whichever team ran fastest out of spawn and got all the good spots. complex games tend to descend into chaos the first time they're tried, folk forget rules. of course if its played often enough to the point where the marshall can go "it's the doodadamajig game" works fine for regulars, except where newcomers raise their hand at the start to ask the rules and had a 3-page rules list explained in 30 seconds. then regulars lose their shit because they missed the bit where they were only supposed to respawn 3 times after the first 2 flags had been captured but only once if the enemy team had crossed the bridge but back to unlimited if the defenders manage to get 4 whirligig's around the vip. it's why i'm a fan of the simple fall-back, simple enough that *most* folk can get their head around the concept and keeps the game moving so a stalemate can be broken by effort rather than simply waiting 30 minutes. but then plenty of people hate fall back games because the defending team always "loses", because apparently you can't have fun if you aren't winning.

sounds like the ob has become misaligned and is catching bb's on their way out. similar effect with a wobbly suppressor.

yeah, it wasn't in a hard spot to find and if it'd been an m4 mag or something cheap/generic i wouldn't have bothered. only recognizing it for what it was figured picking up was the right move. normally hand stuff in to the marshalls but game ended before i got the chance. most common is pistol mags/baseplates in woodland which i tend to pick up and hand in purely because most of the time it'd be a pain to find even with retracing your steps. that was my logic, the only way i could guarantee with absolute certainty the person picking it up had good intentions was to pick it up myself. i suppose i can't be sure the person i handed it to was necessarily the original owner, although he did have the appropriate pew and correct amount of "oh thank god" written on his face.

/thread the absolute bestest most amazingly reliable reusable grenade is still worse than a disposable, you either have to retrieve it in game (with an almost guaranteed risk of getting shot) or remember its position and come back (with a real risk of theivery or forgetfulness). the only reason to entertain reusables is for indoor or for places where non-pyro is a requirement (ie using gas) however for the latter of those 2 options the best solution is to just not use grenades because if there's a gas grenade that isn't shit i've never heard of it.

yeah, only thing to account for with using the tube is the offset in the "barrel" for the 40-mike. but if you made it wide enough and robust (eg a clear plastic tube to protect the led's) you might be able to use centre-fill shower shells with it as well.

take a tracer unit https://www.outdoorandtactical.co.uk/product/pcu-40-mike-tracer-adaptor i cannot speak to its effectiveness, only its existence.

nope, any gear i have is either in the car or on my person. sure if you drop mags left right and centre like your an extra in john wick and throw bfg's round every corner you're gonna lost/have pinched gear eventually. recall once stumbling across a gbb vector mag in a building once, picked it up cos i figured it was the only way to be sure some thieving bugger didn't. you've never seen such a look of relief as its owner when he found me after the game.

that looks like an unholy mess. forget figuring out, rewiring the gun from scratch is gonna be easier.

Iirc there are 3d print adapters for a 40-mike, bit easier than a shower shell with everything proceeding in an orderly fashion

i guess the main thing is not to catch the cheaters, as there's a plethora of ways for them to get around a morning spot check, but to catch the honest accidents. it's why i don't see a problem with merely asking folk what ammo weight they're running, better to make the cheaters have to straight up lie so that when the follow up spot checks catch them you can go straight to gulag, do not pass go, do not collect 200 youtube views. of course this is reliant on sites actually following up on vaguely mumbled threats of in-game chrono'ing, and actually kicking players off the field for rule violations. which is something i'll believe when i see it.......

they're both the same thing, well sort of.... feet per second on its own is a velocity measurement, no different to meters per second, miles per hour, furlongs per week, parsecs per year etc however when applied to airsoft it's not on it's own, it's always feet per second using a 0.2g bb, that second part turns it into a unit of energy, same as joules, kilowatt hours, foot pounds etc the reason we describe it this way is because that's how it's measured (a chronograph doesn't know what size/weight the projectile is, only how fast it's moving), or at least how it used to be measured, and it's a convenient number to remember in the same weird way using km/h seems odd to us because we're used to mph when the reality is both are telling the same thing. we're just used to the speed limit being 60mph and can easily visualize how fast that is. i don't know why feet per second is the velocity unit that ended up becoming standard, seems to be it's even used in notionally metric countries (i may be wrong on that admittedly they might use m/s), i'd guess it's a case of resolution. discerning between 328 and 329fps is easier said than between 99.97m/s (0.99948800156877J) and 100.28m/s (1.0055917309061J) these days with folks using a plethora of ammo weights, and chronographs able to calculate joules on the fly it makes sense to be using joules. if a site can't be bothered reprogramming their chronograph for every player you can still just jot down the fps limit for the common ammo weights and tape it to the chrono, then you can still use the velocity measurement the chrono spits out (which will always be the raw measurement) and match it to the limit for whatever weight the player is using.

afaik there's no rules about international folk here, or buying/selling internationally, you're perfectly fine to join up, enquire and buy things in the classifieds. it's purely down to the individuals, and whilst it's not often written (because most of our users are from the uk anyway) it's a safe assumption that people don't want to sell/post international. yes it's prejudice, but sadly that's just human nature, i know i personally wouldn't want to sell anything outside the uk but rest assured i'd make that clear the moment i knew where i'd have to be sending something and refund any money paid. i thought it was practically mandatory that curse words are amongst the first learned in any language?

just gotta wait for that to run its course i'm afraid. i think that's as much help as we can realistically provide. i did report my original reply just to get the mods attention and they'll be much better placed than we are to help out and dust off the banhammer if necessary.

yep, see here:

did you actually send them money or did they just agree to a sale then pull out? sounds like you're not based in the uk? if so it's possible the seller wasn't willing to post internationally due to the cost/risk, however a legitimate seller would have made this clear and refunded if you'd paid them. however if you paid them and they haven't sent it then that's a scam and i'm sure the mod team would be interested in further information. if you paid via paypal using the goods and services option then you should be thinking about opening a dispute on there as that's the best chance of getting your money back. if you used paypal friends & family or something else like bank transfer then i'm afraid the options are much less fruitful. Needless to say using paypal goods & services for secondhand transactions is strongly recommended for the protection it provides.

right after plymouth...... goddamn if you wanted to burn airsoft to the ground that's one hell of a story to do it with. congrats to the officers involved, hopefully that's one pub they'll never have to pay for a drink in.

an accurate summation. certainly for me i think it was the catalyst that set everything going. ofc doesn't help that life is getting rather fluid at the moment, work is getting very heavy at the minute and the prospect of having to move for work is coming up, so having some extra pennies in the bank and less stuff to worry about is reassuring. maybe once the chaos subsides i'll come back, or maybe i'll move on to pastures new.

I get the feeling. haven't been in months now and it might not have escaped the notice of some that i'm going through the process of flogging gear. originally i'd planned to just drop down to one gun, one rig etc, the bare minimum. but even changed my mind about that and everything's going on the list. i think what killed it for me was coming back after lockdown and running into the same old shit, the non hit takers, the chrono dodgers, the aggressive players and thought to myself "why am i doing this?", it's never going to change, no site is immune, it's just human nature. it's such a lottery, at least for the sites i have access to, as to whether or not a game is going to be enjoyable. you get a good crowd on a good day it's an amazing experience but it doesn't take many assholes to ruin things. which ultimately means you can't guarantee that if you've had a shit week at work, or whatever that going pewing is going to lift your spirits or push them further down. ofc i haven't figured out what i'm gonna do instead, airsoft did strike a beautiful balance as a hobby where kit isn't the hardest to store and transport (compared to say a car or a boat), is affordable (again, compared to say buying a classic car), and combines social, exercise, and nerdy tinkering together (compared to say rc models which round here is pretty much a solo endeavour).

one question that might be relevant here is what sort of budget are you thinking? taking silence as a key priority the logical path to consider is HPA, as that's going to get the minimum possible noise when setup right. it'll also deliver the goods when it comes to precision at least once you've got the hang of programming and have a decent ammo/hop/barrel combo. of course that comes at a cost, both literally in terms of money (although you can spend just as much on an aeg if you're trying) and figuratively in terms of either a reduced shot count for an onboard reservoir or being tethered via an airline (personally i don't think the airline is that bad but some people hate them). you might also be limited by access to compressors.

Could well be. Only really dealt with the advanced because otherwise i'd just run a warfet and not have the hassle.