Adolf Hamster

Ok, so clickbait title aside this is actually an appraisals thread. And sorry in advance @PopRocket123 but in my defence I did warn you in the dragonuv ad What we have here is what happens when you combine a tendency towards financial insensibility with an addiction to possibly pointless metrics. She started out life as an e&l aks74u that I definitely regret not picking up pre-brexit shananigans. Got that for £300 which seems to be cheaper than a cursory search of current uk stock. And yes I did break that rule about shooting the gun at least once before replacing almost everything inside. Before we begin please forgive the terrible lighting and shoddy camera work. Starting at the front the muzzle device has a choice between a combat union Bulgarian style flash hider (more like an amplifier for airsoft) or the gym membership option of a steel lct pbs4. The suppressor has an acetech at200r inside for tracer based shenanigans with some tweaks to allow it to line up properly and not chop bb’s. some of you may have heard mention from me as to how ridiculously heavy this thing is but if you haven’t it’s like a tm hicapa with magazine bolted onto the end of the gun. Moving back She’s had a reproduction B11u+b19 installed on the front with what is definitely not an afg that’s had an unfortunate bandsaw accident. Currently it’s setup with just the right-hand side rail (the left hand side is included) to hold a very nice reproduction SOTAC 2DPS flashlight. The B11 is a tad short but some creative o-ring placement has it sitting nice and tight on the gun. Continuing our journey rearwards we have a modern style pistol grip, think it’s a cyma. But what’s really stealing the show here is the middle finger to primitive notions of bore offset optic. It’s an NPZ Pk-1 aka “obzor” (1p63 is the Russian military designation afaik), which would be very steampunk except unlike older Russian designs this is not powered by coal but instead takes the modern eco-friendly route of being powered by sunlight (ok, and just a little bit of radiation because otherwise it wouldn’t be Russian). No batteries, it’s always on, and the only control aside from windage/elevation dials is the purple lever. Despite it’s bulk it’s a surprisingly light optic, weighs about half as much as you’d think it would. Think it’s due to the internals mostly being mirrors and empty space. Tag seems to mark it out as 2015 production, I think, it looks like a date at least. Optic is completely functional including regular purple mode, even more purple mode, and the tritium does work. I don’t know where it was before I got hold of it but sitting in a warehouse would be my bet. Comes with original storage bag and cleaning cloth. Fantastic optic for outdoors, although the light gathering mechanism doesn’t handle artificial light so well (read: not an indoor optic). Finally at the rear we have a blue force gear Vickers tactical sling. Of course me being a serial tinkerer the insanity continues under the hood. She’s running my favoured pdi 6.01 stainless barrel with combat union hop unit and ml macaron+omega nub combo. The gearbox has a maxx piston head with zci piston. Running 12:1 gears that may have been *ahem* “lightly” (read: heavily) short-stroked. There’s a titan advanced and a warhead brushless motor because mans misses his mouse click hpa triggers. The end result is about as close as I’ve ever seen an aeg get to hpa levels of trigger response, but with a rather modest 18rps auto. Accuracy wise she’s pretty damn good on 0.32’s, certainly good enough that most of the time my marksmanship ability presents the major bottleneck in the whole shooting process. All the original external parts are included in case the classic look is preferred, there’s also an original style (I think it’s a repro) standard ak sling. There’s also 8 NPO magazines in finest plum (the best colour), externally they have the appearance you’d expect of a magazine that’s been surplused by the Russian army however internally they’ve seen just one game. They’re a very tight fit in the gun with zero wobble. Totting up the big-ticket items (base gun, pbs4, 2dp, pk1, mags, titan and warhead) has the total at £1327 yes that’s the first time I’ve run the numbers and yes, I do feel slightly ashamed of myself. Reckon there’s maybe £200 in the rest of the stuff on there it’s a question I’m not sure I want to know the real answer to. Kinda glad now I never got around to draping it in proper zenitco….. Going by the standard 60% rule that has her at £916, although I’m not sure how much that applies to say the mags/scope which probably have a bit of a rarity element going for them? I suspect splitting might have to be the order of the day here, although always more convenient to sell as a package. Just as a point to note I’d intended a firing video but sadly the warhead motor’s rather flimsy contact mounting decided to pick just that very moment I was filming to give up. Rest assured I’ll be getting my hands on a replacement before listing the ad even if I have to buy an entire spare motor to do it (and no that won’t change the price). Suppose I should be grateful I found that in-person rather than via an angry paypal message. and yes there will be a video once it's sorted, and yes there can be hovis. I’m still of 2 minds about selling this gun, as she’s the last of my collection, but I’ve reached the point now where I don’t think I’m going to be returning to pewing any time soon and I’m not sure sitting in a bag in a musty cupboard is the right move. and as a final note, word's picture descriptions when exporting are amusing, apparently that lct pbs4 is a pen sitting on a table

he said vsr style maple leaf, which is what had me thinking hot-shot. i'm still wondering why the hell you'd s-hop a ml bucking and use a vsr barrel over just using an aeg barrel with a standard maple leaf bucking. unless he already had the barrel lying around and decided to install that instead of buying a dedicated one for the build?

to add to this, unless it's a fast enough build to be double-firing on semi then you generally don't need active brake unless you're also adding stuff like precocking into the mix.

in my defence neither have i. i mean my m4 still had the original outer barrel when i sold it

can see that one catching on amongst the 'yoot next thing you know they'll be wearing them sideways, damn kids and their loud music.....

potentially, a bad mesh means more load on the motor which will drop the peak rpm. how much you'd be losing depends on a lot of factors such as the motor power, battery, and how tight it is. you get the same effect with tight shimming, and it'll lead to things like a hotter running motor, more carbon from the contacts etc. kinda like trying to drive your car with the handbrake on.

the click is less damaging than the grinding whirr. stalling a motor out does draw more current than the motor running normally, but for the half second run time needed to check engagement it's generally not an issue. yep, she'll sound/feel less labored. it's a hard thing to describe really as every gun can end up sounding different. i've had boxes ran like silk seemingly no matter what you do to them and others that getting them to sound smooth was a losing battle.

tighten it all the way in, try to fire, keep loosening it incrementally until it's as quiet as it's going to be. don't start with the motor out- this might lead to stripped gears, worst you can do with it too tight is stall the motor which isn't a problem unless you hold the trigger down and heat everything up. while you're doing this be conscious of wether or not the motor is "sticking" in its mounts, ie that when you're loosening the adjustment the motor is in fact moving out. if it still sounds like it ate a bag of gravel then the problem is more complex, either motor angle (eg for m4's with aftermarket grips), the pinion/bevel tooth profiles mismatch (very common when changing motors) or the bevel isn't shimmed correctly (which is why some folks start at the bevel and work up when shimming)

it could be a ml hot-shot bucking? although he also claims it's s-hopped which is a totally different setup. i'd be asking what ammo he's using for that range, followed by the cylinder setup. 630 is a lot of barrel for a standard m4 cylinder (i'm assuming m4 but pictures could be sr i can't really tell) ^edit, scratch that, i'm evidently at the hallucinations phase of insanity, 430mm is fine for barrel length.

uh huh, how's that semiauto treating you

fornction furm functorm nope, not getting it

you are the exception that proves the rule. in this case someone who's happy with neither form nor function in fairness i suppose someone has to do it.....

as above i'd say 7.4v would be the safer bet here. in terms of mah as long as the battery physically fits in the gun there's no downside to having as much as possible.

if you're meaning the bizon then that looks like an amazon special red dot on your generic ak siderail. something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/JASHKE-1x30mm-Holographic-Picatinny-Hunting/dp/B081CS6SDC/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=1x30+red+dot&qid=1628037398&sr=8-7

over ten years and i haven't either. but then as a serial tinkerer i don't think i've ever fired the same gun twice.

being in category 3 doesn't necessarily mean elitist. i pretty much fit that category these days but i will openly admit that a lot of what's gone into a super shiny pew doesn't necessarily result in better performance and definitely doesn't stop you getting winged from the bushes by some kid with a battered rental g36. indeed it could arguably be worse, picking an e&l over a cyma to deck out doesn't result in better bb lobbing performance but it does mean a much heavier gun. of course that adds to feel, which kinda loops round to form rather than function. ultimately we all strike a balance between form and function, otherwise we'd all be running those hpa'd m4 pistol abominations with a barrel length described as "yes".

damn as a note for any new players- we get that 2-tone is a necessary evil and most of the time nobody is gonna judge you for it. unless you do it to something nice then all bets are off.

yeah, personally i'd rather: but that does require further dissassembly. would be good if more guns had a system similar to the RS svd which afaik has a little lever hidden in the magwell that actuates the arl.

americans

The bolt externals are pretty nice, shame the internals didnt work out for you. personally out of e&l and lct i'll take e&l any day of the week, neither brand are totally immune to canting (although not had it from either) but the e&l externals personally i think are nicer (the bluing, lack of airsoft markings etc) and the internals are much better (read: actually good). Basically my rule of thumb is if e&l make it choose them, if only lct makes it then fair enough.

does the trigger feel like it's locked? if the col is at just the wrong position it can block the trigger, how the gun is setup for cycling will influence how easily/often it can happen but spamming the trigger can be a cause. if it is that then the solution is (well, for most guns) simple- flip to auto and a burst will clear it. for a semi only gun it's a bit trickier, possibly the quickest way (read: least dissassembly) i can think of would be to use a hex driver through the nozzle to manually push the piston back to reset the cycle, you want to use something with a flat end though to not mess up the piston, needless to say disconnect the battery when doing that and keep a firm grip because once you push the piston all the way back the full force of the spring will be trying to catapult the piston forwards. maybe the dmr guys have a better solution, i mostly work with select fire so don't have to clear that problem manually.

is that the one where the bulb vents when you drop the mag? i mean that's one way of having drop free mags yeah, met one at a site once, seemed as good a kick as i've seen from any airsoft gun.

funny i was meaning the other way round, i swear i've seen tippmans with recoil.