Adolf Hamster

Whats bore offset and cheek weld mean? Asking for a freind.....

the warhead motors are defo a step up, especially for semiauto. bit delicate with the contacts but the pickup speed is defo noticable.

look guys, we gotta accept that airsoft is a sport that attracts folks from various ages and backgrounds, it should be no surprise that forums surrounding it will be no exception. that's inevitably going to lead to dealing with folks with whom you have some fundamental philosophical disagreement with whether that separation be age, politics, religion or whatever. however i do think that alex has a point that certain things are best left unsaid on a public forum, although not for the same reasons. one of the things i've always loved about this forum compared to many is how rarely debates of this sort arise, either because they're not talked about or because folks here realize the truth that arguing with someone on an internet forum isn't going to get them to change to any great degree. on the flip side, shamal and druid have a point that if you support free speech as an ideal then you have to accept that also means accepting others should be allowed to voice opinions that don't sit well with you. I realize that it's an easy trap to fall into, hell i remember the vaccine debate suckered me in good and proper, but looking at the long term you can choose to either hold the grudge and end up having constant little spats (until the forum suffers for it), or accept the inevitability that nothing's going to change the other party's mind and you're better off forgetting it and focusing on the real issues that affect us all. like kickingmustang and speedsofters and hpa users because for sure we ain't gonna be solving a problem as complex as racism from behind a keyboard.

Hey guys whats with all the notifications....

^that

and so my fictional character turns real also he missed a hell of an opportunity to cash in on the borderlands reference..... sadly i'm afraid that reference went over my head

if you'd met him you'd know......

careful man, next thing you'll be asking why the first thing that's "the done thing" with a tm sniper rifle is to up the power when everyone knows tm's outrange everything ootb.

absolutely this. anyone who gets paid to fix airsoft gnu's calls themselves an airsoft tech, regardless of their qualifications. if you're going to insist that their work adds value then you need to name drop so their reputation can do it for them. otherwise a buyer must only assume that the work was done by billybob who took up airsoft teching after failing his degree in surfing and has only been doing it for a month. and fully upgraded is a meaningless term, has it had literally every part replaced? has everything that could improve performance been done? the answer is no, because nobody replaces every single part and performance is such a wide term that to optimize a build in one aspect precludes optimization elsewhere.

you need to be using a tool like a lathe to finish the end of the barrel. you'd be as well buying a new, shorter, inner barrel rather than trying to cut.

the roughly is worth putting a number to, fps variation is a good way of checking the quality of the air seal. eg if you're getting all your shots in a sub 5fps window then you know it's decent enough (unless your a perfectionist in which case reduce that window as required) this can be seen when shooting in vertical dispersion- shots going high/low, you'll know from playing whether or not this is a big enough issue to affect you. as a general rule it's recommended not to go undertaking any major internal work without a backup gun, as someone who didn't heed that advice i can assure you the walk of shame with a broken pew gets old the tenth time you've done it.

as davegolf put so well you really want to be using it for a while before thinking of making changes. you need to have clear objectives in terms of what the gun is/isn't doing within the realms of how you use it. for example i could list a bunch of stuff that would improve range/accuracy but if you're playstyle has you constantly up close and personal then it'd be wasted effort. the cheapest "upgrades" that are pretty much universally applicable are keep the barrel clean- at least before every game day you want to be making sure its spotless. the other thing is to be using good quality ammo, best gun in the world will shoot like shit if you're giving it bad food.

if the receiver is in good nick and there's nothing wacky going on in the design (eg recoil etc) then just wholesale replacing the gearbox is a viable strategy. replacement boxes aren't that expensive (comparatively speaking) for example: https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/gearboxes-complete/ec-complete-gearbox-qd-v2-rear however if she's cycling and just has low fps then there's a limited list of candidates that could be the cause. i'm probably not the right person to talk to about electrical fuckups...... i tend to advocate doing your own tech work as it's a good set of skills to learn, and can (in the long run) save you a lot of headaches wether you've got a gun brand new or secondhand.

without wishing to sound too blunt, but i'd consider finding a different tech. or, take this gun as an opportunity to have a go yourself- if you've already consigned it to be a wallhanger then the worst outcome of fucking up trying to fix it is it'll still be a wallhanger. as for dissapointing guns, think this qualifies: up until that point i'd been under the impression lct and e&l were pretty much equals, but that shattered my illusions. i suppose in lct's defence the quality isn't so much bad as simply not as good as the competition, but they do plenty of models (ie not ak's) where that doesn't apply.

agreed. gotta love the "reply now" demand thrown in at the end, if anything that'd make me wait for no other reason than spite. i do wonder what goes on in people's heads when they write like that, how do they think they're coming across? do they really think it's making them look good? maybe i'm over-analyzing.....

urgh that does annoy me. if you're going to go down the route of trying to haggle don't expect the seller to cut their own throat and drop the cost for you. you're basically opening a conversation by asking the seller to give you free money for no effort. you might as well just pm random people asking "how much money can you give me?" if you wanna make an offer fine- put a number to it, at least that opens dialogue (even if the dialogue is simply no)

i must admit it does make you think "how many sales ads is this guy responding to that he doesn't have the time to write out properly?" the other thing you get is folk who go silent once you've sent an item, i suppose it's better than a paypal dispute out of the blue but it'd be nice to know they've recieved it at least.

it's possible, depends how tight it is against the piston/spring guide. it's a tricky balance as you don't want it too loose either lest it kinks.

that's my thinking too they can expand under compression, so even if it goes in smooth it can still bind when compressed during the firing cycle.

nope, the rated continuous current is the mah divided by 1000, then multiplied by the C rating. 1450/1000=1.45*30=43.5A 2000/1000=2*25=50A now often batteries can sustain more in short bursts, sometimes it's even stated (if you see 2 C ratings on a pack that's what it means) but it's a general guide. that's a pretty good example, taking the ratings at face value at least. notice how it even specifies a 100C burst current. however also look at the dimensions- its a literal big battery and has the size to match. needless to say this is a problem if, like your gun, battery compartment space is at a premium. wether or not you're happy to run a fake peq box, or change the stock or some other modification to allow you to run a larger battery is up to you. bearing in mind that the overdraw premise is based on the assumption there's nothing wrong with the 2 battery packs you're currently using, you may wish to test in a different gun just to be sure that's not the problem. tbh, given you say you're mostly dealing in 3 round burst rather than auto, it would probably be better to simply change the motor to a ht (slower and less amp draw) then make up for any loss in trigger response (aka lock time) with a mosfet that allows precocking (not sure if the existing one does or not)

even with the "view all notifications" page? you can go onto your profile and see a list of topics you've replied to, which might help if you did. for example besides this thread the last thread you replied to is here: if you're following without having replied you might just have to search for the thread title or scout the forum manually.

Mah and C rating are both ratings where there's no such thing as overkill. pretty much the only downside to having both numbers as high as possible is the cost, and physical size, of the battery pack.

does it not show up when you click the little bell in the top right corner?

pretty much as asomodai says, switch to the ht motor.