Adolf Hamster

maybe pulled from a secondhand gun? or if you ever work on other people's guns could be from there? i know thats where most of my spare parts collection came from.

thought the first pic was showing the markings where the ridge would be but isn't? now i'm getting even more confused.......

yeah it does look factory made, although one does wonder why they removed the keying ridge. they're definately a thing, but i'll admit i couldn't specify the brand. any time i've looked i ended up just modding my own or buying something like a maple leaf.

hmm removing the keying ridge is a common enough part of the flat-hop process, but as you say it doesn't look like it's been done by hand. if it were a pre-made flat hop then it would presumably retain the ridge as the only reason it's removed normally is to rotate the bucking to get a fresh contact patch. a mystery for sure. also, are the feedlips as torn up as they look in those pics?

what is your goal with this "upgrade"? because that's gonna define which of those builds suits your purpose, or if a different build would be even better suited.

see, what i read there is: i'll confess to not being the biggest expert on the intricacies of ak furniture, but i thought the 74 pattern was a side swivel not bottom? it's hard to tell from the pics but it looks like it might just not have a muzzle device installed, or at the very least just a thread protector. eh, wouldn't be the first time folk have run "incorrect" mags because either they don't care or couldn't find the ones they wanted in stock.

just in case any youtubers are watching and weren't sure what he meant by that.

that "off" pic defo looks engaged too far. that said, the "on" pic also looks a bit more than my hazy recollection of the last time i worked on one of those units.

they do? https://www.sixmm.com/products/we-akm-gbb-pmc-airsoft-rifle?variant=37052782018721 looks like the ad is one of those with the furniture replaced with RS stuff for the classic look. explains the gas tube change too if the original was railed, presumably the railed handguard and m4 stock adapter mentioned in the ad are the originals

except gbbr's, hpa's and bolt actions

when a site quotes a limit as "fps" they don't mean raw velocity, they mean velocity (in feet per second) using a 0.2g bb. this is a statement of kinetic energy, but instead of using joules it's using a convoluted unit that mixes metric and imperial and sounds like it's just a velocity measurement to really confuse people. kinda the same way you fill your car with 50 litres of petrol but measure the fuel economy in miles per gallon. we just have to be awkward in this country. so in the case of a 400"fps" limit, 400fps on 0.2g = 1.49J of energy, a 0.4g bb fired with 1.49J of energy will be travelling roughly 282fps fortunately, there are calculators available to help out: https://www.zerooneairsoft.com/airsoft_fps_calculator just because you've said that i reckon we should use obol-barleycorns per microjiffy and yes, apparently the jiffy is actually a measurement of time equal to 1/65,536 of a second.....

unless you're going hpa it's not really going to help too much, you're still going to have a ton of gearbox noise to deal with. there are "silent" aeg builds but often they're reserved for specific patterns that already lend themselves to quietness, eg something like an f2000 with the gearbox cradled in your arm and that chunky noise absorbing polymer body to dull the gearbox noise, or something with enough room to pack foam in round the box.

hmm, that is a bit wide. it's hard to say what specifically is the cause, but have a read here for the common checks: i'd make sure to read the foreword a couple of times and be sure you want to risk opening up the box. if the seal is between the nozzle and hop, then changing the hop rubber (especially to a maple leaf as they tend to have longer feedlips) could well improve it enough anyway.

fair enough, possibly easier than trying to retrofit.

wonder if the arm was a bit tight/stuck it's not unheard of for guns to have a level of lift with the hop turned off, indeed i've done it many a time intentionally. however i'd be surprised if a stock arp was doing it.

as long as the can is lined up properly and the bb isn't hitting anything on the way out then it's not really an issue. if it's not lined up and the bb clips part of the can on the way out then it'll properly ruin accuracy, but that will be very obvious. it's relatively common for hpa's to run suppressors without inner barrels because you do get an actual noise reduction, and i never noticed a lack of performance from doing it. plus you can put a tracer unit inside

if you're buying new, why not go e&l? nicer (subjective admittedly) externals, and more importantly better internals on the platinum line? cyma midcaps for cheap & cheerful, NPO for gucci looks (especially for plum) would be my pick. can't say i rate lct or e&l's mags for performance (weak springs) the lowest profile you're really gonna get is either a top cover or gas block rail with something like a t1 on a low mount. front mount takes a bit of getting used to but it's not so bad, indeed i've heard it suggested it's preferable for snap style shooting. hinged top cover is an issue with zero retention, although how relevant that is for airsoft accuracy standards is up for debate. issue with the sight block rails is the sight block is already tall, comparitively it's similar to a carryhandle mount on an ar platform. mostly the russians don't care so much about bore offset, pretty much all the integrated siderail optics have quite a bit of offset to them. if my aim was low profile, tbh i'd probably just use irons. in terms of aesthetics? whichever you prefer. afaik (citation needed) the pbs-1 is supposed to be only for 7.62/akm pattern guns with the smaller thread as opposed to the pbs4 being for 5.45/ak74 pattern guns with the larger thread. the putnick i'm personally not a fan of, it's like hanging a coke can on the front of your gun, but i suppose if that's your thing then go for it. if it were me i'd go with a standard brake on a full length gun, or a pbs-4 for a krink.

hmmm if it was pme that ate the teeth on the piston then semi shouldn't be sounding too healthy either. what sort of auto rof was it getting before it started playing up?

start with just the rubber and nub and work from there. as a general rule unless there's anything specifically wrong with the stock unit i tend to reccommend not changing them. the pro-win units are regarded as having qc issues these days, so you wouldn't be guaranteed it'll improve anything. i'd not bother with the barrel, if you must change then the ZCI 6.02 stainless barrels are very good bang for buck but tbh i'd be putting my attention to the air seal within the gearbox. that said, if the airseal is decent (relatively low shot to shot deviation) then it's probably not worth pulling the box apart.

step 1- clean the barrel step 2- use decent ammo step 3- step 4- ??? step 5- profit?

at the risk of potentially giving out advice.... OP: have you considered what you're wanting to get with this £500? it's usual to have to factor in things like magazines, batteries, chargers etc for a starter purchase. reason i ask is that spending less on the gun, and more on accessories such as web gear, slings or a nice optic to partner with the gun can be just as valuable as the gun in the first place. eg a bone stock tm recoil with 1 magazine is gonna be a whole lot less useful than say a cyma platinum with a nice red dot, sling, bunch of mid caps and an odin in terms of overall skirmishability. i know i made that mistake first time, dropped all my cash on an f2000 and spent its first day out with 1 hicap and no sling, needless to say i couldn't bear to drop my new shiny toy on the ground so by the end of the day my arms were in agony.....

Also iirc isnt advertising only allowed in the retailers section? Citation needed

it definately used to be a big thing with the old nicad/nimh batteries, hell you could recover serious performance with cycling them. lipo's are much less susceptible, however the key question is how much is it worth doing? eg my phone is ~7 years old now and still holds over a days charge (nearly 2), and whilst i don't use those superfast chargers it does get charged fully every night (that i remember) of course after 7 years, battery life isn't what's going to kill it, what'll kill it is the charging port wearing out to the point that i can no longer charge it, and for many consumers it's less relevant even than that, as the boredom and desire to change will kick in much earlier. for an airsoft gun? well batteries ain't too expensive and replacing them isn't exactly a difficult task, trying to eke out the maximum number of years service isn't worth anywhere near as much as it would be for say an electric car, where such worries about increasing charge rates etc are very much relevant.

tbf, you'd be surprised how often you can tag people who just stand around thinking you can't hit them whilst i do agree, hpa isn't strictly a magic bullet. it still requires the rest of the system (hop, barrel, ammo, etc) to be of a good standard. it will also need dialed in properly, whilst this is easier to do than aeg's they can also be a lot fussier especially with voluming. certain systems, specifically the polarstar jack/F1 open-bolt systems can have real accuracy issues (as in worse than a decent aeg) due to the way they work, with the likes of the F2/Fusion being a bit higher end (ie over-budget). i can't comment on the wolverine stuff having never used it, but they claim closed bolt operation so probably the better pick for this case. of course that's assuming you're happy to deal with the air line (which isn't so bad), weight of the tank (which can be a pain sometimes), getting air (which can be easy if the site does refills or a real problem if they don't) and more importantly the de-facto hatred from other players.