Adolf Hamster

i'd agree, although we do need a culture shift to one where people actually pay attention to the rules on a given site. the number of times i've seen "that's not how it works where i normally play" used as an excuse for [insert discouragable aspect of airsoft gameplay] the most fun one i remember hearing was "headshots don't count", can't say i've ever played/heard of a site where that was the case outside of people using it to claim non-hit taking was ok (on a site where head-shots absolutely do count same as any other hit)

depends, tbh jacket alone isn't going to help much if your boots/trousers are getting soaked every time you walk through a hedge/long grass/kneel down up to you, depends how much you hate getting damp. t shirt will be fine, soldiers were fighting in the rain long before "wicking" was something people paid attention to, good idea to pack a fleece or other such extra layer(s) to add if you get too cold. every rainy game i've played with fingerless gloves and just accepted they're getting damp, depends on your own personal tolerance for cold/wet hands. i'd be much more concerned about waterproofness of boots. personally i find if i keep my core warm then my hands stay warm, however if you have issues with circulation in extremities etc then you'll need to put more effort into it. other things worth noting- plan to be soaked through by the end of the day, a car with a decent heater is going to be a godsend when your cold/wet on the drive home, likewise rubber mats/plastic bags to protect your interior from soaked gear on the drive home if you care about such things. the above said, don't leave your kit bagged up damp after the game day, get it out to air/dry/get washed as soon as you get home. optics can be annoying in the wet, blurring red dots (especially open type), you may wish to consider just running irons, or at least bring any tools required to pull any optics you have mid-day if needed. as with optics, eyepro gets super annoying in the wet, a hat with a peak to keep the worst of the rain off the exterior helps a lot. otherwise expect fogging to be exponentially worse than a dry day. often there's a balance to be struck between preventing yourself getting wet in the first place, or having yourself able to dry out quickly when the weather clears, it depends on the weather if your getting showers or constant rain. you'll find your own way, either taking care to keep yourself dry avoiding areas of undergrowth that'd get you soaked and seeking shelter at every opportunity, or just running around as normal happy as larry and not worrying about getting soaked to the skin, either path is good- remember you're playing to have fun, if you're not having fun (because of inclement weather) then it's totally fine to just go home and watch tv by the fire.

it's the same rail, although tbh the way they clamp down tends to be relatively universal. i measured the RS i have and it's ~35mm from the bottom of the bulb housing (lowest bit that'll catch) to the upper tip of the rail for comparison the NPZ pk-1 i have is about 52mm for the equivalent measurement.

vss in general needs a taller mount than the dragonuv doesn't it? the RS i have is relatively low on a dragonuv, barely clearing the top cover, so might not clear a VSS either

presumably that's just how he has the mosfet setup, some people like it that way for some reason. wondering if that noise after firing is setting up precock? after the trigger is released. doesn't sound high enough of a rof to be getting pme, but that does depend on the spring strength. regardless, doesn't sound healthy.

what a world we live in, when a cyma ak has rarity value

^that personally i'm a fan of the wide port piston heads: https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/pistons-heads/xt-piston-head-5-large-vents-aluminium cylinder wise, unless the stock one is particularly scratched no real need to change that. if the stock cylinder head is sealing well then no need to change, same applies to the nozzle, although if your gonna change nozzle then be very certain about the length requirement and get one with a sealing o-ring such as https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/nozzles/ec-m4-metal-nozzle-double-oring-21mm you've already got a decent barrel/bucking/nub combo so with decent airseal and good ammo it should be most of the way there. the gearing i'd leave alone, if you're staying at 18:1 then changing the gears is only really relevant if the existing gears are weak (ie have broken) or you're super paranoid about gear noise (beyond what can be acheived with a decent shimming/motor height job) and want to do something weird like helical. indeed, that's the real big difference for "trigger response". mosfet choice is up to you, personally i like gate stuff but plenty of folks are happy with perun too. motor wise the asg 30k is nice enough on 7.4 but if you really wanna splash out then the warhead brushless motors are very snappy, although a tad more delicate (especially the contacts).

Few options. Dab of glue on the hex bit, let it set before trying to remove. If that doesnt work a torx might, but you'll want the right size. After that something like grinding a slot in the head to take it out with a flatblade screwdriver. And finally as mentioned get the big guns and drill it out. In future, i really suggest investing in a good quality set of hex drivers, really does make all the difference for the small screws you find in these things.

yeah if that persists you might wanna talk to a doctor about that....

so your aim is range and/or semi response for a semi-locked build?

quite possible. i have heard it theorized that white holes are responsible for similar phenomena, like the appearance of spoons, mugs, or individual socks despite the owners having never actively obtained such items.

maybe pulled from a secondhand gun? or if you ever work on other people's guns could be from there? i know thats where most of my spare parts collection came from.

thought the first pic was showing the markings where the ridge would be but isn't? now i'm getting even more confused.......

yeah it does look factory made, although one does wonder why they removed the keying ridge. they're definately a thing, but i'll admit i couldn't specify the brand. any time i've looked i ended up just modding my own or buying something like a maple leaf.

hmm removing the keying ridge is a common enough part of the flat-hop process, but as you say it doesn't look like it's been done by hand. if it were a pre-made flat hop then it would presumably retain the ridge as the only reason it's removed normally is to rotate the bucking to get a fresh contact patch. a mystery for sure. also, are the feedlips as torn up as they look in those pics?

what is your goal with this "upgrade"? because that's gonna define which of those builds suits your purpose, or if a different build would be even better suited.

see, what i read there is: i'll confess to not being the biggest expert on the intricacies of ak furniture, but i thought the 74 pattern was a side swivel not bottom? it's hard to tell from the pics but it looks like it might just not have a muzzle device installed, or at the very least just a thread protector. eh, wouldn't be the first time folk have run "incorrect" mags because either they don't care or couldn't find the ones they wanted in stock.

just in case any youtubers are watching and weren't sure what he meant by that.

that "off" pic defo looks engaged too far. that said, the "on" pic also looks a bit more than my hazy recollection of the last time i worked on one of those units.

they do? https://www.sixmm.com/products/we-akm-gbb-pmc-airsoft-rifle?variant=37052782018721 looks like the ad is one of those with the furniture replaced with RS stuff for the classic look. explains the gas tube change too if the original was railed, presumably the railed handguard and m4 stock adapter mentioned in the ad are the originals

except gbbr's, hpa's and bolt actions

when a site quotes a limit as "fps" they don't mean raw velocity, they mean velocity (in feet per second) using a 0.2g bb. this is a statement of kinetic energy, but instead of using joules it's using a convoluted unit that mixes metric and imperial and sounds like it's just a velocity measurement to really confuse people. kinda the same way you fill your car with 50 litres of petrol but measure the fuel economy in miles per gallon. we just have to be awkward in this country. so in the case of a 400"fps" limit, 400fps on 0.2g = 1.49J of energy, a 0.4g bb fired with 1.49J of energy will be travelling roughly 282fps fortunately, there are calculators available to help out: https://www.zerooneairsoft.com/airsoft_fps_calculator just because you've said that i reckon we should use obol-barleycorns per microjiffy and yes, apparently the jiffy is actually a measurement of time equal to 1/65,536 of a second.....

unless you're going hpa it's not really going to help too much, you're still going to have a ton of gearbox noise to deal with. there are "silent" aeg builds but often they're reserved for specific patterns that already lend themselves to quietness, eg something like an f2000 with the gearbox cradled in your arm and that chunky noise absorbing polymer body to dull the gearbox noise, or something with enough room to pack foam in round the box.

hmm, that is a bit wide. it's hard to say what specifically is the cause, but have a read here for the common checks: i'd make sure to read the foreword a couple of times and be sure you want to risk opening up the box. if the seal is between the nozzle and hop, then changing the hop rubber (especially to a maple leaf as they tend to have longer feedlips) could well improve it enough anyway.

fair enough, possibly easier than trying to retrofit.