Adolf Hamster

it definately used to be a big thing with the old nicad/nimh batteries, hell you could recover serious performance with cycling them. lipo's are much less susceptible, however the key question is how much is it worth doing? eg my phone is ~7 years old now and still holds over a days charge (nearly 2), and whilst i don't use those superfast chargers it does get charged fully every night (that i remember) of course after 7 years, battery life isn't what's going to kill it, what'll kill it is the charging port wearing out to the point that i can no longer charge it, and for many consumers it's less relevant even than that, as the boredom and desire to change will kick in much earlier. for an airsoft gun? well batteries ain't too expensive and replacing them isn't exactly a difficult task, trying to eke out the maximum number of years service isn't worth anywhere near as much as it would be for say an electric car, where such worries about increasing charge rates etc are very much relevant.

tbf, you'd be surprised how often you can tag people who just stand around thinking you can't hit them whilst i do agree, hpa isn't strictly a magic bullet. it still requires the rest of the system (hop, barrel, ammo, etc) to be of a good standard. it will also need dialed in properly, whilst this is easier to do than aeg's they can also be a lot fussier especially with voluming. certain systems, specifically the polarstar jack/F1 open-bolt systems can have real accuracy issues (as in worse than a decent aeg) due to the way they work, with the likes of the F2/Fusion being a bit higher end (ie over-budget). i can't comment on the wolverine stuff having never used it, but they claim closed bolt operation so probably the better pick for this case. of course that's assuming you're happy to deal with the air line (which isn't so bad), weight of the tank (which can be a pain sometimes), getting air (which can be easy if the site does refills or a real problem if they don't) and more importantly the de-facto hatred from other players.

lemme guess, were most of the parts sourced from the same company?

really depends on your definition of best. whilst the tm's reputation is mighty, it's not the only gun on the market that shoots well ootb. however as @Groot and @Rogerborg point out a few minor tweaks to a cheaper guns can get them up to that level, especially when you also give them good food.

interesting stuff. did you check consistency as well as out and out fps? reason is i've intuitively leaned towards tighter o rings on the basis i'd rather lose a little energy to friction and keep as much air as possible. would be interesting to know.

^droppin them truth bombs

i thought that's how folk would read it the big problem with such things is the only person who knows how well (or not) a given "upgraded" gun actually shoots is the seller. but even if we assume complete honesty, there's the issue of benchmarking. if the seller claims for example "shoots like a laser" how to they know that the gun they think is good, is actually good? if they're name-dropping a tech that you trust then you can go on that basis, but usually the best you can hope for is to tot up the value of any big-ticket parts in the build.

indeed, i'd not even care because it'd be getting a full re-wire anyway. so the term means different things to different people. ahh yes, the "simple fix", famed for rarely being so simple. that said, plenty of "working" guns can still have serious issues needing correction, hell even (some would even say often) "upgraded" guns can have major issues.

Thing is boneyard means different things to different people. Someone might sell something as boneyard simply because the fuse is blown or its had a bb jam. But yes some stuff is junk, but again folk might have crazy projects or want obscure spare parts and its easier to get a boneyard gun to pillage. You see the same thing with cars, people do buy scrap cars to take banger racing, or to pillage for parts (aka breakers yards).

and tbf, the issues discussed aren't the worst. the barrel nut is confusing me, as iirc it's a sliding block but the carry handle isn't too bad and the mag wiring is the kind of thing i'd be re-doing even on a stock gun. it does at least seem to provide realistic expectations.

description says complete gearbox, pictures say bunch of parts wonder which it is?

not messed around much with dual-gas guns, but i have noticed that the co2 guns i've owned tended to have smaller diameter pistons than a similar sized gun on green gas, with thicker walls. co2 guns beating themselves to death can happen, for example the 1911 anniversary edition i had sheared the front off the barrel bushing simply by beating the crap out of it. that said, gg guns can do that too depending on how well they're made, eg my we 226 beat the dissasembly lever bad enough to snap it in two. tbh i tend to avoid co2 as the venn diagram of people who claim to have reliable co2 guns (with whatever trick you care to name being responsible) and the people who i've seen skirmishing with reliable co2 pistols doesn't overlap.

pre-upgraded, tells time 20% faster than other watches.

Pfft, wristwatches. Pocketwatch on a double chain or go home peasants

i'm guessing specna don't serialise their stuff? i know most manufacturers don't bother but this would be a perfect time to be able to do the ol' "if you see someone selling guns with 45xxx on the serial let us know"

it's a steep learning curve. if it's any consolation, it took about half a dozen stripped pistons/gears and 2 nearly killed batteries before i learned the 40k was not the way.

I beleive @HuttArmouries on here does custom leatherwork?

if the goal is trigger response then the 2 things you want are pickup speed and precocking. precocking is all in the mosfet (depending on which version you have you may need to change, perun offer units but i'm more familiar with the gate stuff) and in terms of motors i'd say shs high torque at the budget end, or if you want to spend then a warhead standard. the problem with the likes of the 40k is as well as improving response time you're also getting a much higher rof and current draw. the other thing is to ensure things like shimming/aoe (note aoe=/=massive amount of sorbo) are well setup so everythings spinning free and easy.

does it do it if you let the hicap unwind a significant amount? ordinarily hicaps tend not to put that much pressure on, but it's not impossible.

the problem with that sort of thing is the consistency you're getting. if the same rounds that are going through the chrono are also going all over the place (ie no changes to the setup between chrono/range shot) then it really shouldn't be an airseal issue. you can get it with mags, if your testing on a half empty midcap or a hicap then go to test shoot on a stuffed midcap, the friction on the nozzle from the bb stack holds the nozzle back and gives temporary airseal issues.

"easy fix but i havent got the time" the only possible explanation, and it might sound a bit stupid, but how are you going about setting the hop? i've seen hops have dual "sweet spots" where if you start adjusting from off you get to the first spot with good hop, but if you keep adjusting eventually the combination of overspin/energy loss ends up at another point with what looks like about the right amount of spin but ends up with really crap consistency. possible if you're starting off with big adjustments maybe you're missing the first spot and hitting the second?

never got around to grabbing a kobra, went for it's steampunkier cousin the pk1 instead

why a fast rps? if it takes more than 1 hit at practical pistol engagement ranges then it's a failure of the target not the equipment.....

Thats impressive........