Adolf Hamster

iirc powair6 do custom guns that have the stop on empty feature, although afaik they require special mags for them. not sure of anything native to any of the major brands, but i haven't checked recently.

Its because they, like basically every site, forgot to add the "using 0.2g" caveat to their fps figure.

i can understand where your coming from, kinetic energy as-applied to airsoft chrono'ing is literally gcse level science. but at the same time, it is a very common misconception in this hobby, not helped by the convoluted way limits are stated mixing up metric and imperial units in the most classic of british fashions. so it's not really all the beneficial to be too harsh on folks that get fooled by it.

be good to have something to sit between the cyma and RS options. not counting the WE sitting off to one side that is.

Dont know about age restrictions. I guess the general assumption is anyone wanting individual parts is wanting them for an rif they already have, in which case it's somewhat moot.

as above it becomes an interesting question on where the line would be drawn between a "part", for example a reciever shell, and an "RIF" i guess as long as the total package passes the "doesn't look like a gnu to random public" then it'll be ok, although there are some tricky precedents for things that have been identified as gnu's which aren't.

try the classifieds-> https://airsoft-forums.uk/classifieds/

that depends entirely on the volume and moisture content of the bush you're trying to get through

the feeling of dampness slowly wicking its way down from your knees into your boots?

well that's me missing a finger then

tbf, a lot of the dumb stuff people do with airsoft pews is precisely because they're not real firearms. although that said, that still wouldnt stop people.

sounds like a standard peek out of cover to me. the clear-cut example of why deliberately aiming for headshots isn't a "dick move" in and of itself.

which is why i find it amusing to think of any site running such a rule for anything more than 1 game before realising that mistake. ain't that the truth, posting rules on a big billboard isn't just for the players benefit.... you missed out the marshalls who do a good job, backed up by site owners who then override them by sending anyone who shows up in the sin-bin right back out to the field.

indeed, that's another one, heard of folk getting called out as cheaters for ignoring a gun-hit, on a site where the rule is gun hits don't count..... either version of the rule has its merits, whether one rule or the other is "better" isn't the problem, it's people not playing to the version of the rule that the site they're playing on is using. i can see the issue of "dick move" headshots being the reason a site might consider implementing a headshots don't count policy, after all if people are allowed to ignore headshots then you wouldn't go for them. however as above the issue isn't about whether that's a good rule or not, it's that players who are used to a headshots don't count rule on their usual site, applying that same rule on a site which doesn't use it, with the inevitable consequence of people who do know how the site rules work getting justifiable irate. it's what has pushed me out of the hobby. ultimately it doesn't matter what the rules are, or how well a site tries to enforce them, as long as airsoft is a game played by humans there will be problems.

i'd agree, although we do need a culture shift to one where people actually pay attention to the rules on a given site. the number of times i've seen "that's not how it works where i normally play" used as an excuse for [insert discouragable aspect of airsoft gameplay] the most fun one i remember hearing was "headshots don't count", can't say i've ever played/heard of a site where that was the case outside of people using it to claim non-hit taking was ok (on a site where head-shots absolutely do count same as any other hit)

depends, tbh jacket alone isn't going to help much if your boots/trousers are getting soaked every time you walk through a hedge/long grass/kneel down up to you, depends how much you hate getting damp. t shirt will be fine, soldiers were fighting in the rain long before "wicking" was something people paid attention to, good idea to pack a fleece or other such extra layer(s) to add if you get too cold. every rainy game i've played with fingerless gloves and just accepted they're getting damp, depends on your own personal tolerance for cold/wet hands. i'd be much more concerned about waterproofness of boots. personally i find if i keep my core warm then my hands stay warm, however if you have issues with circulation in extremities etc then you'll need to put more effort into it. other things worth noting- plan to be soaked through by the end of the day, a car with a decent heater is going to be a godsend when your cold/wet on the drive home, likewise rubber mats/plastic bags to protect your interior from soaked gear on the drive home if you care about such things. the above said, don't leave your kit bagged up damp after the game day, get it out to air/dry/get washed as soon as you get home. optics can be annoying in the wet, blurring red dots (especially open type), you may wish to consider just running irons, or at least bring any tools required to pull any optics you have mid-day if needed. as with optics, eyepro gets super annoying in the wet, a hat with a peak to keep the worst of the rain off the exterior helps a lot. otherwise expect fogging to be exponentially worse than a dry day. often there's a balance to be struck between preventing yourself getting wet in the first place, or having yourself able to dry out quickly when the weather clears, it depends on the weather if your getting showers or constant rain. you'll find your own way, either taking care to keep yourself dry avoiding areas of undergrowth that'd get you soaked and seeking shelter at every opportunity, or just running around as normal happy as larry and not worrying about getting soaked to the skin, either path is good- remember you're playing to have fun, if you're not having fun (because of inclement weather) then it's totally fine to just go home and watch tv by the fire.

it's the same rail, although tbh the way they clamp down tends to be relatively universal. i measured the RS i have and it's ~35mm from the bottom of the bulb housing (lowest bit that'll catch) to the upper tip of the rail for comparison the NPZ pk-1 i have is about 52mm for the equivalent measurement.

vss in general needs a taller mount than the dragonuv doesn't it? the RS i have is relatively low on a dragonuv, barely clearing the top cover, so might not clear a VSS either

presumably that's just how he has the mosfet setup, some people like it that way for some reason. wondering if that noise after firing is setting up precock? after the trigger is released. doesn't sound high enough of a rof to be getting pme, but that does depend on the spring strength. regardless, doesn't sound healthy.

what a world we live in, when a cyma ak has rarity value

^that personally i'm a fan of the wide port piston heads: https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/pistons-heads/xt-piston-head-5-large-vents-aluminium cylinder wise, unless the stock one is particularly scratched no real need to change that. if the stock cylinder head is sealing well then no need to change, same applies to the nozzle, although if your gonna change nozzle then be very certain about the length requirement and get one with a sealing o-ring such as https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/nozzles/ec-m4-metal-nozzle-double-oring-21mm you've already got a decent barrel/bucking/nub combo so with decent airseal and good ammo it should be most of the way there. the gearing i'd leave alone, if you're staying at 18:1 then changing the gears is only really relevant if the existing gears are weak (ie have broken) or you're super paranoid about gear noise (beyond what can be acheived with a decent shimming/motor height job) and want to do something weird like helical. indeed, that's the real big difference for "trigger response". mosfet choice is up to you, personally i like gate stuff but plenty of folks are happy with perun too. motor wise the asg 30k is nice enough on 7.4 but if you really wanna splash out then the warhead brushless motors are very snappy, although a tad more delicate (especially the contacts).

Few options. Dab of glue on the hex bit, let it set before trying to remove. If that doesnt work a torx might, but you'll want the right size. After that something like grinding a slot in the head to take it out with a flatblade screwdriver. And finally as mentioned get the big guns and drill it out. In future, i really suggest investing in a good quality set of hex drivers, really does make all the difference for the small screws you find in these things.

yeah if that persists you might wanna talk to a doctor about that....

so your aim is range and/or semi response for a semi-locked build?

quite possible. i have heard it theorized that white holes are responsible for similar phenomena, like the appearance of spoons, mugs, or individual socks despite the owners having never actively obtained such items.