Adolf Hamster

E&l every day of the week:

that is definately a new one. been stabbed plenty of times by springs and various pokey bits but never a piston......

didn't even notice that, the pneumatic blowback system is godwaful, although granted easy enough fixed with a cylinder change.

i think the main issue is the camo, regardless of how good or not a particular paint scheme is, you're ultimately limiting your market to people who not only want a gun in that configuration, but who also like the specific paint job. unlike parts paint is a bugger to remove so people are less willing to take on a painted gun with the intention of then stripping the paint. there's also the issue of it having work done to it, whilst the parts themselves may have some value (eg the aster is going to add value), there's always the risk with a modified gun especially when the work hasn't been done by a big name tech. some people who are tech savvy themselves might not care as they have the confidence of fixing any issues themselves, but folks that aren't so tech savvy may be wary in case they end up with a lemon. it's also worth noting that different people will prioritise different parts and value them accordingly. for example my personal tastes mean that the hicaps, sling, battery, foregrip and suppressor are all parts that will either end up unfielded in my parts box, or are something i'll have to sell on, so the sale really boils down to £190 for a raider, 3 midcaps and an aster as well as adding the cost of a new barrel to revert back to the stock length. granted that will vary wildly depending on the particular person viewing the ad, for example someone who doesn't mind hicaps would see some value in a couple of extra mags, but it's still something to consider.

Here's some pics, this is for a heavily short stroked 18:1 build so you may need more/less precocking depending on your specific setup: Page 1: Note the top box i have set to auto, its just the light is flashing and i cant seem to get the pic to have the light on Page 2: Got the flasher this time, note this is on 3 coarse bars and the first fine bar in this particular case.

how?

really the main difference is gonna be the precocking time, at least assuming you're not doing any burst fire shenanigans. i'll dig out the jg later on and grab some pics.

Hey we're discussing the really important issues here.....

np, let us know how it goes, i can grab some shots of mine if needed to see where the settings are at rather than me stumbling through descriptions based on memory.

dont think a spring is a good idea: the dragonuv has a faux gas piston that works on 2 springs (one biases it back, the other holds the slack) that in theory is meant to have the piston reciprocate when the bolt cycles, but all it acheives is making the gun go sproingoingoingoing every time you fire it. i can see this working out the same way.

yep, it's why i've subbornly refused all these years to get a titan until very recently, only did it because i'm the kind of person who gets annoyed at not having precocking after firing auto and because frankly i've been spoiled by years of hpa trigger response.....

i think that's what the smart trigger setting does- it automatically precocks every shot rather than taking one triggerpull to cock and one to fire, i've always had that setting on and that's how mine run. edit: i'm a fuckin idiot, have the programming card sat in front of me didn't think to look at it to remind me there's a setting for the precocking mode...... the warfet precocking is based on a timer. basically when the gun cycles, it'll wait for the trigger to be cut off, then run a few milliseconds longer (the adjustment via the programming card is telling it how long to wait). in semi auto the trigger always cuts off at the same point as defined by the cutoff lever however in auto the trigger cuts off whenever you let go, which is very likely to not be the same time as the cutoff would in semi, so whilst it over-runs on the timer rather than stopping immediately this is very unlikely to end up in the precocking position as it has no way of knowing what point of the cycle the gun is at. this means the first shot in semi after a burst in auto is not gonna have precock guaranteed, it'll just be from wherever the sector gear happened to settle, however from the second shot onwards it will function normally. unfortunately there's no way around this with the warfet, this is one of the things an optical mosfet like the titan can do which the warfet can't as the optical sensors can detect where the sector gear is even in auto and can run the precocking via the sensors, of course optical mosfets do come with their own sets of problems.

maybe some metal inside instead of the foam? have the tube of the charging handle smack that rather than the handle stub

you can, but you run the risk of issues such as backlash or different teeth profiles. as long as you're checking for those it's all good. i've done mis-matched builds in the past this way.

so for precocking you're gonna want to do the following: with the blue light on (the default starting setting) set active brake and smart trigger to on skip through the rest of the settings till the red light is on it's a bit misleading but there's actually 2 bars for precocking. the first is the one below the red line marked precocking boost- call it the fine setting, the second is the line above the red line (the same strip of lights used for active brake/smart trigger etc on the blue screen)- the coarse adjustment when you adjust the precocking all the way up the lower bar, it'll reset back to no lights and add a light to the top bar so there's a much wider range of adjustment than first appears. then you just need to set the precocking up to your desired level, i'd start with setting up by 1 coarse bar (an entire fine strip) from default, then test. keep doing that until it double fires, then back it off by 1 fine bar at a time until it stops double firing on semi (during this process it may occasionally lock) note that you should fire it a bunch of times when checking as it might initially seem perfect but every tenth shot or so it'll double fire or lock up or something weird. if you have a ported cylinder it can help to view that as it'll give you a good idea where the piston is stopping each time.

this is why i'm waiting until i have the spare cashmonies to drop on a tw5. because charging handle integrity is the only feature anyone should care about

there are plenty of variations for budget guns these days, quite a healthy market. in general the cyma range is pretty dependable and jg's offerings aint half bad either. hk slap is the karate chop you do to close the bolt on an mp5 when reloading if you want to look tacticool, totally pointless on an airsoft aeg but still a thing.

the mp5 has many strong arguments: you can hk slap it it goes with pretty much any nationality you can hk slap it you can do police or military you can hk slap it for airsoft it's perfectly viable outdoors you can hk slap it small mags easy carried and the gun is short and light you can hk slap it it wears modernisation relatively well you can hk slap it seems it's mostly avoided the heretical plague of putting m4 stocks on not m4's you can hk slap it it's just plain cool and iconic did i mention you can hk slap it?

as a general rule it's considered standard to reccommend starting off with an aeg, for cqb purposes a short one as suggested would be perfect. people can and do run pistols only in cqb (and a few nutters do it outdoors too) but a good reliable aeg is something you should always have lying around even just as a backup. start with something basic, like the 904 rocketdogbert reccommends or maybe something like a cm045 if you preferr the ak platform. after that by all means go ham on the pistols.

is it settled in it's pin ok? there's not normally much space but it absolutely should clear if it's all positioned ok. if it is in the right place then looks like the sector teeth are taller than normal, it could happen although i've personally never seen it.

Goddamnit i said i didnt want this to become a theme.....

agreed, any time i've run a variable it's been set to roughly 4x and left there. for up close just stack a red dot.

yeah that's my meaning having a higher energy output with a heavier weight is what is meant by joule creep. it can be used to cheat chrono for sure, although generally it's an accidental side effect of how our pews work (insofar as how it applies to constant pressure systems such as gas/hpa). i'm not sure what advantage a heavier piston has in a bolty aside from intentionally creating joule creep, maybe it's a noise thing with a heavy thud being preferable to a light slap when the piston hits end of travel?