Adolf Hamster

i think that's what the smart trigger setting does- it automatically precocks every shot rather than taking one triggerpull to cock and one to fire, i've always had that setting on and that's how mine run. edit: i'm a fuckin idiot, have the programming card sat in front of me didn't think to look at it to remind me there's a setting for the precocking mode...... the warfet precocking is based on a timer. basically when the gun cycles, it'll wait for the trigger to be cut off, then run a few milliseconds longer (the adjustment via the programming card is telling it how long to wait). in semi auto the trigger always cuts off at the same point as defined by the cutoff lever however in auto the trigger cuts off whenever you let go, which is very likely to not be the same time as the cutoff would in semi, so whilst it over-runs on the timer rather than stopping immediately this is very unlikely to end up in the precocking position as it has no way of knowing what point of the cycle the gun is at. this means the first shot in semi after a burst in auto is not gonna have precock guaranteed, it'll just be from wherever the sector gear happened to settle, however from the second shot onwards it will function normally. unfortunately there's no way around this with the warfet, this is one of the things an optical mosfet like the titan can do which the warfet can't as the optical sensors can detect where the sector gear is even in auto and can run the precocking via the sensors, of course optical mosfets do come with their own sets of problems.

maybe some metal inside instead of the foam? have the tube of the charging handle smack that rather than the handle stub

you can, but you run the risk of issues such as backlash or different teeth profiles. as long as you're checking for those it's all good. i've done mis-matched builds in the past this way.

so for precocking you're gonna want to do the following: with the blue light on (the default starting setting) set active brake and smart trigger to on skip through the rest of the settings till the red light is on it's a bit misleading but there's actually 2 bars for precocking. the first is the one below the red line marked precocking boost- call it the fine setting, the second is the line above the red line (the same strip of lights used for active brake/smart trigger etc on the blue screen)- the coarse adjustment when you adjust the precocking all the way up the lower bar, it'll reset back to no lights and add a light to the top bar so there's a much wider range of adjustment than first appears. then you just need to set the precocking up to your desired level, i'd start with setting up by 1 coarse bar (an entire fine strip) from default, then test. keep doing that until it double fires, then back it off by 1 fine bar at a time until it stops double firing on semi (during this process it may occasionally lock) note that you should fire it a bunch of times when checking as it might initially seem perfect but every tenth shot or so it'll double fire or lock up or something weird. if you have a ported cylinder it can help to view that as it'll give you a good idea where the piston is stopping each time.

this is why i'm waiting until i have the spare cashmonies to drop on a tw5. because charging handle integrity is the only feature anyone should care about

there are plenty of variations for budget guns these days, quite a healthy market. in general the cyma range is pretty dependable and jg's offerings aint half bad either. hk slap is the karate chop you do to close the bolt on an mp5 when reloading if you want to look tacticool, totally pointless on an airsoft aeg but still a thing.

the mp5 has many strong arguments: you can hk slap it it goes with pretty much any nationality you can hk slap it you can do police or military you can hk slap it for airsoft it's perfectly viable outdoors you can hk slap it small mags easy carried and the gun is short and light you can hk slap it it wears modernisation relatively well you can hk slap it seems it's mostly avoided the heretical plague of putting m4 stocks on not m4's you can hk slap it it's just plain cool and iconic did i mention you can hk slap it?

as a general rule it's considered standard to reccommend starting off with an aeg, for cqb purposes a short one as suggested would be perfect. people can and do run pistols only in cqb (and a few nutters do it outdoors too) but a good reliable aeg is something you should always have lying around even just as a backup. start with something basic, like the 904 rocketdogbert reccommends or maybe something like a cm045 if you preferr the ak platform. after that by all means go ham on the pistols.

is it settled in it's pin ok? there's not normally much space but it absolutely should clear if it's all positioned ok. if it is in the right place then looks like the sector teeth are taller than normal, it could happen although i've personally never seen it.

Goddamnit i said i didnt want this to become a theme.....

agreed, any time i've run a variable it's been set to roughly 4x and left there. for up close just stack a red dot.

yeah that's my meaning having a higher energy output with a heavier weight is what is meant by joule creep. it can be used to cheat chrono for sure, although generally it's an accidental side effect of how our pews work (insofar as how it applies to constant pressure systems such as gas/hpa). i'm not sure what advantage a heavier piston has in a bolty aside from intentionally creating joule creep, maybe it's a noise thing with a heavy thud being preferable to a light slap when the piston hits end of travel?

isnt that exactly joule creep? the theory i have with the heavy piston thing is that the inertia of the piston prevents it travelling fast enough to get full velocity on lighter ammo. it explains why you don't see it on aeg's as aeg piston weights tend to be lighter to prevent pme.

so £40 for an shs dsg, jg idler and a quite worn bevel that looks to be g&g or brand new £14.50 for the shs gear and taking your pick of any of the 18:1 shs sets (even the internal bearing ones) works out sub £35 assuming the nozzle is indeed shs those are £4 new as well...... all in you're able to do an equivalent setup (using standard gears not the fancy ones) brand new from ak2m4 for £34 including shipping. edit: on a side note i feel compelled to doubt the 55rps claim, assuming at that speed the piston survived long enough to register enough shots through a chrono i've not met a magazine, even the mighty cyma micap, that can feed beyond 50 reliably.

also worth noting that fps variation is gonna seem worse with lighter ammo. 15fps on a bolty doesn't sound right to me, i'd be wanting to see single digits on an aeg let alone something that's meant to be even higher precision.

You are indeed correct, must have mistyped into the calculator. Tried again gives 508 on 0.2

So your getting 1.8j with 0.25's and 2.4j on 0.43's with the same spring if i'm reading that right. 2.4j sounds close enough for me, you work that out its equivalent to ~460fps on 0.2's. Might be a little headroom there but at the same time being a bit under is no bad thing as it means you've got a safety margin to account for questionable site chrono's. What is worth doing is chrono'ing a few shots to check the fps variation shot-shot, valid for any gun but especially a bolty your gonna want that number to be as low as possible.

Was more a case of keeping options open for getting things cut, not a problem atm as ours is still running.

Do you work on commission? My place is for moving and they'll almost certainly drag their heels recomissioning ours.....

yes and no there's a phenominon called joule creep that can apply to spring rifles if the piston is heavy enough, i'm not sure if out of the box the ssg24 is one of those rifles but it's worth using your game weight to chrono to be sure.

What weight are you normally using in-game?

With just the gears and the box tightened up do the gears sound nice when spun by hand? You can also then fit the motor to be sure the screeching is coming from there.

Iirc it is possible to remove the auto sear to make it semi only, but been ages since ive worked on one