Skara

More than wearing lycra, a dye mask and running around with a gun caked in anime stickers?

I know, I was just taking the piss

What does it do over a bone stock TM glock?

Hello and welcome, for the time being I would keep using the high cap, the infamous "battle rattle" is a myth and only occurs when the magazine is nearly empty and you shake the gun. G&G midcaps work relatively well (they're decent but the extended dog dick followers need to be yeeted into oblivion ASAP), failing that, Battleaxe EPM clones seem like the best bang for buck option right now. You will also need a speedloader, if you have the budget, get a genuine Odin (they're expensive at €50), it'll make life much easier. You could go for a clone but the one I had bought the farm on its first use. It also boils down to your playstyle, if you use full auto a lot, stick to high caps (more sensible option to carry a lot of bbs while keeping bulk down), if you're a semi only kind of player then midcaps could make more sense because they imply an actual reload every once in a while and make things a hair more "realistic".

This mod has been around for a while but kudos for making it on a budget

so, the aliexpress trigger got delivered, tried to install it but I couldn't (and almost fucked up the smg aap). The hole where the trigger connects to the bar is too close to the border so the bar can't be aligned, also the safety has this uber awful spring that has nowhere but a flat, slippery surface to rest on. I'll put it up for sale tomorrow and wait for the TTI.

premature engagement (of the piston). Essentially the sector gear manages to pick up the piston when (the piston) is still travelling forward, you'll hear an awful grinding noise all of a sudden followed (if you don't stop in time) by a very low powered shot. Happens in full auto only

Not necessarily expensive, it's just a matter of knowing what you're doing In my case I found the cause of PME in the spring(s) being too short, essentially what happened was the piston couldn't be moved fully forward because the backpressure created by the bb was stronger than the pressure applied to the piston by the spring, so it would reach a balance point about 1mm away from the cylinder head. I solved the issue on both my M4s by removing one and two teeth respectively off the sector (pickup side) and slapping some longer springs in (SHS M90s). Both guns running on SHS HT motors, SHS 13:1 gears and 101% air seal, about 20/22 RPS on 7.4 batteries, over 30 on 11.1s.. There are other causes too, like the piston not being free to move in its guides, a bad AOE job, keeping all 15 teeth on the piston for some reason and running extreme ROFs at low energy output (1/1.1J with ROFs well over 35 RPS).. Once you made sure that the piston doesn't snag on anything and the air seal is good, the easiest way to prevent PME is to knock off one/two teeth off the sector (be careful to not undervolume the gun, make sure the piston head can still retract past the port on the cylinder) and replace the spring with a slightly stiffer one OR install a thrust bearing on either the piston head or spring guide.

They also provide a much more precise and constant spacing effect, sorbothane works well on bolt actions but the fact that it compresses and expands (over time it stays compressed btw) makes it crap for AEGs.

Consider yourself lucky, a 15 FULL teeth piston at 32 RPS should've exploded 😮

The UI on mobile is fine, it's not as chaotic as other forums I follow Discord server never took off, every once in a while there are new posts but for the most part it's deaded

I kinda want to see what the electronics will be like.

4x ITW 1" buckles (male+female) 4x ITW 1" triglides 1m of genuine MC 1" webbing. The plan is to replace the two top buckles of my TMR with two ITWs (so they're actually compatible with flatpack style stuff or other harnesses) and to make two side straps.

This requires the person to acknowledge he has an issue, which is never an easy thing to do.

I can see two problems with that rig, considering you want modularity: 1) the buckles don't look like standard 1" ones, this prevents you from using aftermarket harnesses or things like flatpacks; 2) I'd be wary of these full molle rigs, as one tends to overload them with pouches. Now I don't know your budget, nor how many mags you are going to carry, but if you don't need 6 spare magazines then I would look at something else to be used in conjunction with a small backpack. This because you mentioned carrying water on your belt, which I wouldn't recommend. I tried running heavy stuff on a belt, without a harness to support the weight it's a nightmare. One slick setup could be a TMC mk3 clone (won't suggest the genuine SS rig as it's much easier to resurrect three days after being nailed to a cross than to find one of those at a non robbery price) with a clone flatpack (Pentagon Quick Bag, for the price it's hard to beat) and a belt. Sounds bulky as heck but in reality it's a really low profile setup, the rig and backpack connect into a single piece, belt will remain relatively light so it won't impede movement, the rig's modularity will give you plenty of options. Plus it takes 10 seconds to revert the thing back to standalone rig and backpack (provided you store the rig's h-harness somewhere in the pack)

The only other options would be the sector sitting way too high so it only catches on a minimal portion of the rack, or the piston guides being chewed to all fuck so when the sector grabs it, it is lifted. But the latter seems unlikely as from the video the piston body seems intact

I took them off the pickup side as those have the least impact on cutoff/tappet timing. 13:1 gears have 16 teeth like all the other regular single sector gears, it's just the spur/sector "connecting" teeth that are different from 18:1s Now that i think about it, your piston rack might be a bit fucked, but you're going to take the gearbox apart anyway so you can check for damage on there too.

Blyatsoft?

PME for days. I had a very similar issue with my specna 933 (C-02), I solved by short stroking the sector (by two) and slapping a longer spring (SHS M90). On its full stroke configuration the gun cycled fine when dry fired, but as soon as I got a bb in the chamber, it would PME like a mofo. I identified the issue in the spring being too short (specna loves stubby springs, mine was cut down as well to stay below 1J)... Now that I think about it, my C-08 did the same, solved without realizing when I knocked off one tooth off the sector and installed the same SHS M90 spring

You remind me of a certain former president.. With that being said, you can fuck off back in your mom's basement. This is a forum, not Facebook. If you don't like how things work here, if you don't want to wait for people to write down a somewhat detailed answer then this is not the place for you. I (just like everybody else in here) don't have an obligation to answer your questions, even more when you expect them within a minute from the moment you click "post/send/reply". I can reply whenever I want, even if it's 3 am for you, that's how forums have worked since they were first invented (and in case you haven't noticed, it's how this forum works as well) and nobody ever took it personally, unlike you. You clearly don't like me (and a few other members), but guess what, I'm not losing my sleep over a random bag of sadness who doesn't fancy having a nice, calm discussion Will I get a warning from the admin team for not being nice? So be it. Will I get banned for not being nice? So be it. Have a nice day, Skara Out.

I'm just busy, can't spend all day doing fuck all Well I've had a look at the thread and I didn't seem to be "dickish" until you started acting like "oh he's taking his time cuz he can't answer HehEheEhEhEeHeHeHe", which by the way is why forums are so good compared to Facebook, Instagram and all that load of shit the younger generations are so used to: people here take their time to answer, to give a more comprehensive answer to whatever question is being asked rather than typing a few words and press send. I tried to explain in the simplest way possible why barrel length doesn't matter, you came up with a supposed test that doesn't make much sense because the "basic condition" isn't the same for both guns (and no, both being stock doesn't mean they're the same thing), then when I brought up the mk23 you went "but it's not the same hop" and well, yes it's the same hop. The contact mound on the stock TM rubber is no different from the contact mound of a G&G green or a Prommy Purple or whatever standard rubber you can think of. Go ahead and act offended as much as you want, I couldn't give less shits about it. @Ebeneezer Goodesorry for turning your thread into a shithole btw.

New (2nd hand) Maxx ME Pro with LEDs arrived.

The argument is that a bb gets his range mostly from the energy it's being pushed at and the RPM given by rubbing against the hop rubber's surface (lift). To counter those two forces Mother Nature gave us gravity (counters lift) and air resistance (which counters the bb's energy and includes factors like temperature, wind, humidity for the sake of keeping it simple). Tell me where barrel length sits in this equation

Same energy output? Same hop pressure applied? Same RPM imparted to the bb from rubbing against the rubber? Mate, seriously. Let's assume those two guns have the exact same gearbox inside, essentially the firehawk will come out at a much lower energy output due to the shorter barrel, which automatically voids your example again, can't compare a Golf with a Panda, two different cars even though they both have 4 wheels made of rubbery material and an engine. Did you chrono both guns? were they within 5/10 fps from each other? if not, guess what, your example is wrong Well yes, some of us do contribute to society instead of trying to be clever on forums