Skara
-
Posts
3,148 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
34 -
Feedback
0%
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Buy a Patch
Classifieds
Everything posted by Skara
-
PME for days. I had a very similar issue with my specna 933 (C-02), I solved by short stroking the sector (by two) and slapping a longer spring (SHS M90). On its full stroke configuration the gun cycled fine when dry fired, but as soon as I got a bb in the chamber, it would PME like a mofo. I identified the issue in the spring being too short (specna loves stubby springs, mine was cut down as well to stay below 1J)... Now that I think about it, my C-08 did the same, solved without realizing when I knocked off one tooth off the sector and installed the same SHS M90 spring
-
You remind me of a certain former president.. With that being said, you can fuck off back in your mom's basement. This is a forum, not Facebook. If you don't like how things work here, if you don't want to wait for people to write down a somewhat detailed answer then this is not the place for you. I (just like everybody else in here) don't have an obligation to answer your questions, even more when you expect them within a minute from the moment you click "post/send/reply". I can reply whenever I want, even if it's 3 am for you, that's how forums have worked since they were first invented (and in case you haven't noticed, it's how this forum works as well) and nobody ever took it personally, unlike you. You clearly don't like me (and a few other members), but guess what, I'm not losing my sleep over a random bag of sadness who doesn't fancy having a nice, calm discussion Will I get a warning from the admin team for not being nice? So be it. Will I get banned for not being nice? So be it. Have a nice day, Skara Out.
-
I'm just busy, can't spend all day doing fuck all Well I've had a look at the thread and I didn't seem to be "dickish" until you started acting like "oh he's taking his time cuz he can't answer HehEheEhEhEeHeHeHe", which by the way is why forums are so good compared to Facebook, Instagram and all that load of shit the younger generations are so used to: people here take their time to answer, to give a more comprehensive answer to whatever question is being asked rather than typing a few words and press send. I tried to explain in the simplest way possible why barrel length doesn't matter, you came up with a supposed test that doesn't make much sense because the "basic condition" isn't the same for both guns (and no, both being stock doesn't mean they're the same thing), then when I brought up the mk23 you went "but it's not the same hop" and well, yes it's the same hop. The contact mound on the stock TM rubber is no different from the contact mound of a G&G green or a Prommy Purple or whatever standard rubber you can think of. Go ahead and act offended as much as you want, I couldn't give less shits about it. @Ebeneezer Goodesorry for turning your thread into a shithole btw.
-
New (2nd hand) Maxx ME Pro with LEDs arrived.
-
The argument is that a bb gets his range mostly from the energy it's being pushed at and the RPM given by rubbing against the hop rubber's surface (lift). To counter those two forces Mother Nature gave us gravity (counters lift) and air resistance (which counters the bb's energy and includes factors like temperature, wind, humidity for the sake of keeping it simple). Tell me where barrel length sits in this equation
-
Same energy output? Same hop pressure applied? Same RPM imparted to the bb from rubbing against the rubber? Mate, seriously. Let's assume those two guns have the exact same gearbox inside, essentially the firehawk will come out at a much lower energy output due to the shorter barrel, which automatically voids your example again, can't compare a Golf with a Panda, two different cars even though they both have 4 wheels made of rubbery material and an engine. Did you chrono both guns? were they within 5/10 fps from each other? if not, guess what, your example is wrong Well yes, some of us do contribute to society instead of trying to be clever on forums
-
Yup. All the teeth I've seen explode (including mine) were upper teeth because when shouting/breathing/whatever they are the ones without any cover from the lips.
-
Sorry mate, I have an actual job so I can't spend my whole life on forums arguing about age old topics like barrel length. It's physics, a 1J bb coming out of a 100mm barrel will have the same properties of a 1J bb coming out of a 1 metre barrel. Given the same energy output, given the same pressure applied to the hop rubber, given the same hop rubber, two bbs fired from different barrels will have the same range and consistency. Did you make sure that both the CM16 and FireHawk had the same charateristics? Same muzzle energy? same hop up chambers, rubbers and barrel diametre and finish? Same bb weight? Same amount of pressure from the hop arm? If not, ding dong your example is wrong It's like comparing a VW Golf with a Fiat Panda.
-
The bottom teeth are covered by the bottom lip, that's why. It's much more likely to get a tooth knocked off the top.
-
Mk23 and its 133mm barrel says hello
-
I feel like we have to draw a line between looks/feel and actual performance. If you want more range, then a long barrel is the last thing you need, it's been proven way too many times over the years that short barrels (below 360mm) give better performance over 500+ ones. What you want is an air tight system -zero air leaks- and a really good hop up setup, so either a R-Hop or a Maple Leaf/PDI rubber with the correct tensioner, a rigid enough hop arm so it doesn't bend when bbs pass through and good quality heavy bbs (0.3+). On the other side, you can get the sig 550 to pretty much DMR levels if you throw enough money at it and you're smart (e.g. don't watch YouTube videos). One thing worth mentioning is that DMRs are useless, you lose too much (full auto,0 MED, people crying when you shoot them) for an almost negligible muzzle energy increase, especially when you consider that a R-Hop can send a 0.32 up to 70m at 1J which is 20 to 25 metres more than the average AEG can do. So, where do *you* draw the line?
-
the fuck is wrong with mankind?
-
M-Lok is lighter and doesn't come in two different dimensions (airsoft spec and RS spec), so yeah. Either standard picatinny or M-Lok
-
Gg Predator Etu/Mosfet Replacement Trigger Assembly
Skara replied to Panama's topic in Electric Guns
Honestly, I would just replace the whole unit with something less bad, Perun is releasing their new V2 hybrid mosfet soon (around the 6th of May), worth taking a look imo. -
I just bought ANOTHER Maxx hop unit And an AliExpress handguard for the PDW.
-
Didn't really make a grouping/consistency test last Sunday, I could say torso sized but it wouldn't be 100% correct. I will do a more accurate test this weekend, but it's definitely man sized based on some of the hits I scored
-
It's the only solution I can think of at the moment. I have a similar issue on my AK, sometimes it locks up in semi because it still has the mechanical switch (it's wired for a warfet) and with just a hint of precocking (about 30% through the full cycle) I seem to have fixed it. Of course I disable it every time I use it so that the gun is stored without the spring being under tension.
-
The only thing I can see that will permanently fix the issue is precocking. By forcing the piston to rest somewhere along the travel you prevent the system from resting in a position where the COL automatically lifts the trigger trolley. OR, you could invest in a mosfet with cycle detection (optical ones) but it's an expensive option.
-
Nope, it's an issue with mechanical contacts and cutoff levers. A DMR selector plate just prevents the COL from being lifted.
-
Some spurs aren't 100% flat, unfortunately. I have the same issue with a gearbox shell I bought a while ago, the spur doesn't want to spin freely. Bevel and sector are fine. You should also check if the bushings are parallel to the shell and to each other, the gearbox shell might be slightly warped or they haven't been installed correctly. Also, those reinforced gearboxes are useless, there should be extra material at the front, not the back.... The marketing ideas people come up with are amazing
-
New rig suggestions?
Ideally something that complements my helikon tmr and smersh.
No plate carriers, I don't like them.
-
Thanks, but I only run this gun on 7.4s, trigger response on precocking is amazing and 22 RPS is just about the right rate of fire for my tournaments, gives me enough volume of fire to give cover and at the same time I'm not dumping an entire high cap in 3 seconds
-
Tiny update on my tournament M4: Wanted to experiment with the King Arms PDW stock. I'll get another one because it's super lightweight and it actually has some space inside for a somewhat chunky battery! Current specs are: Specna C-08 Internals Gate Titan Advanced SHS 13:1 gearset, one tooth off the pickup side SHS High Torque Motor SHS M90 Spring SHS 14t piston (full rack) FPS fancy Piston Head FPS O-ring air nozzle 21.20mm MAXX ME Sport hop unit Maple Leaf MR-Hop 70° ZCI 6.02x247mm inner barrel (The parts I didn't mention are the stock ones, so tappet plate, delayer chip, 3/4 hole cylinder, cylinder head) Externals: MAXX Advanced Speed Trigger DD replica Iron Sights PTS EPG King Arms PDW Stock Red handstop to go with the trigger Noveske Soundhog Hanging off a Helikon adjustable padded 2 points sling Currently sending 0.3s at 65 metres at 0.98J/22 RPS on a 7.4v
-
Saw them too! They are interesting because they don't have the stupid glock safety. I have ordered a supposedly adjustable trigger from aliexpress yesterday, €13 posted. If it works, I'll get a couple more (or these TTIs if they cost less than a lung here in Europe)
-
So, did some troubleshooting.
The Maxx feed tube is definitely too thick and doesn't insert into my magazines unless it's really forced in.
The same applies to the knockoff old gen unit.
Now, do i sand it down?
- Show previous comments 1 more
-
I checked every magazine I have. They all get stuck to the chamber (I'm testing with the units on their own, not inside the gun).
I have measured the diametre and:
Maxx ME: 9.25mm
Maxx TE: 9.25mm
SHS/Specna chambers: 9.02
Need to shave off 0.1mm all around the tube, will do it by hand as soon as I find a decent piece of sandpaper (or a very light pass with a dremel at the lowest speed possible with a stoney tool)
-
i'd say sandpaper is gonna be your best bet, trying to get an even surface with a dremel is gonna be a right pain when doing the outside of a circle.
it's a tricky one, the split feed tube seems kinda weak but also seems to work quite well, when i was running mine it'd feed every last round which was odd at first having to pump a bunch of rounds into the dirt to be sure it was clear.
-
So, ended up using a file in an arcing motion, which didn't turn out too bad.
I almost royally fucked it up because I went a little bit too deep on the rear part (which engages the bb retainer on the magazine) but I managed to fix that...sort of...
I'm at 9.08 now, I'll give it another pass at the front and sides (working on the Maxx sport which has a "fixed" tube instead of the leverage thingy, I have also removed the dumb tiny bb retention spring in the process).
Worst case I'll ask the guys at Maxx to send me another feed tube.
