Skara

Sorry, couldn't keep up with the answers. One of the reasons I sold the split front mav is the split front design: all the weight is shifted to the side since there is a rather large portion of unusable space at the front. This combined with even a tiny ass backpack with nothing but a half filled 2L bladder (1.5kg total?) made the whole thing rock backwards, no matter how much shit I had at the front. Design flaw? Me being a retard? No clue, but it made me stay away from anything split front. The peacekeeper was one of the main options, until I realized it is actually more expensive to import it than flying to australia and picking one myself -.- Also it's huge which is a no go for my short chest. @alxndrhllit's curious, as I consider the TMR a micro rig when in reality it's the same size as a D3CR. It does hold more stuff than a SS rig, that's for sure, but the size of the middle admin is deceiving, in reality it doesn't hold more than a phone, car keys and small speed loader without bulging out like an american kid at McDonald's. I am also looking at a proper micro rig, but that's food for another thread Someone on a discord server suggested the Mayflower UW gen IV rig, which I really like, but I don't think it takes 5.45/5.56 AK mags (the Pusher, gen VI, has removable inserts for different calibres but it seems to be much harder to source in this part of the world). no "vests", they are great for carrying stuff but they really restrict my breathing. I guess I'll keep looking..

It's literally a clone of the rig I just sold...

Thanks guys. I sold the mav because I like my rigs to sit high on my chest and if I set it high, it was way too tight, if I set it where it wants to be (mid chest) it felt shit and prevented me from using a belt. I guess my torso is too short for it to work well. I'll have to be wearing the thing for hours (8 at least), so no bandoleers as they definitely do not distribute the weight equally on each shoulder. Someone somewhere else suggested a Mayflower uw gen 4, but it doesn't seem to take ak mags (which really isn't a big deal, I'll be using M4s mostly but I like my stuff to be interchangeable within reason). So many rigs to choose from

Hive mind, I choose you! I just sold both my Tactical Tailor Mav and mini Mav. The first I didn't like how it fit, the latter because it was redundant with my Helikon TMR. So now I am left with the aforementioned TMR and a smersh, in theory I am covered on all fronts (low profile and lightweight - carrying the kitchen sink), but we all know it's very rarely a matter of *need* Anyway, I want a new chest rig to complement the tmr, I want more room for utility stuff for those longer games, space for 3/4 ak/m4 mags (I own 5 high caps and 5 midcaps for each gun), also it needs to sit kinda high so I can use it with my frv belt. Being swift clip compatible is not strictly necessary but is a nice plus, possibly a H-Harness instead of a X one. Was eyeing the Helikon Guardian, it oddly resembles the good ol' arktis chest rig but with more features.. Any suggestions?

I only played KoTH on the lowest settings possible that would give me 30 fps inside a populated town.. Unfortunately I now lack the time and will to spend a night playing after working 8 to 10 hours on pc.. Also ArmA was supposed to run on potatoes and it ran flawlessly on my laptop until last year, when it decided to commit sudoku and give me BSODs for days.

I will, once I get ArmA 3 to run again on my craptop -.- (Not gonna do milsims or anything, I just happen to have ALL the things, just missing that one)

Guess how I found out Anyway, what adolf just said ^^

Such an underrated statement! I guess the srs needs a wee bit of time to get used to due to the awkward bolt pull. It seems that the most efficient way is to have your palm facing up rather than cosplaying a t-rex (which is something a lot of people do). Make sure to buy-make-steal a bolt cover to avoid getting shit into the hop chamber. Now though, buy a mk23

Yup, although it did slightly chew up the plastic thread on my king arms pdw receiver 😕 will get a pic of the thing installed tomorrow, overall for €23 posted I can't complain, the m-lok slots appear to be proper m-lok spec and the inner diametre is the same as my noveske sound hog (fits really snug, which is a plus for me as it locks the barrel in nice and tight). the two small anti rotation tabs fit nice around the upper (the reason why I bought it in the first place)

Hi and welcome, £450 is a hefty budget! Is it for the gun only? Or does it include things like eyepro/rig/boots/clothes? You already have one gun, maybe it's worth spending a portion of that budget to make sure it runs smooth, take it to a decent tech to sort any air leak, shimming or any issue it may present. Invest in a couple of magazines (everyone's favourite are midcaps, but they are not necessary, high capacity magazines are super convenient and the infamous battle rattle is a myth). Then play a few skirmishes to get the hang of the game. After that, if you feel like there is an area your CM16 is lacking, you might want to sort that by replacing parts or installing new ones (mosfets, gears, motors, hop rubbers, barrels, you name it. your gun is fairly standard which opens up a lot of possibilities for upgrades, especially with that budget). Another option would be to keep the G&G as a loaner/backup, in that case I wouldn't look at krytac/bolt, they have some proprietary parts that might be expensive/difficult to find. Plenty of options for your budget, one gun I would personally recommend is the TM M4 HC CRW, no bells, no whistles, 25 RPS out of the box on a 8.4 NiMh.

Got my 7" "motorcycle sleeve" from Aliexpress. It's a fucking brick, the barrel nut must be lead lined uranium or something 😮

Just to make sure I got the prices right: Tactical Tailor split front MAV with Harness: €75 new for the rig, another 70 for the harness, condition is brand spanking new, they never left my room, assembled once but I don't like how it sits. Put them for sale at €100 + postage SOLD FOR €90 POSTED Perun ETU Upgrade kit + Airtech short stroke trigger converter Perun mosfet is discontinued in favour of the new ETU++, functions are essentially the same. it was €55 brand new, I used it for a while (rewired to deans because fuck tamiya), airtech trigger thingy is brand spanking new, never left the package once as I sold my arp before it arrived. Asking €50 + postage for both SOLD FOR €50 POSTED G&G 120bb midcaps x6 + Odin clone. They are €15 a pop new, there is a box of 5 for €50 but it's absolutely impossible to find. Speed loader is €15 new, this one is unused. Mags have been used twice, regular maintenance, removed the tiny dog dick followers because they only cause issues. Asking €50 + postage for the lot. What do you guys think? fair prices?

He's boasting a viper patch... Enough said.

Does the nozzle scrape the stock hop chamber too?

https://www.skirmshop.nl/en/aap-01-tdc-prowler-hop-plate.html It appears that skirmshop developed a TDC for the aap. Doesn't seem like a bad design, I just hope they didn't steal it from Hadron.

We need a brave individual to test if the button is there on Internet Explorer... (Don't worry, we'll wait)

Saw your post on ASF. I wouldn't trust Silicone Sword, every time I read one of his posts I get a terminal disease. He suggested to build the gun from scratch, which could make sense if it wasn't airsoft we're talking about: tolerance issues for days and lots of fitment to be done. Plenty of guns to choose from, my recommendation would be the Action Army T-11, out of all the possible choices imo it's the one that gives you the most bang for your buck since it already comes with some decent parts like a not so bad 90° trigger, a decent cylinder/cylinder head, a bull barrel (ideal for internal suppression), a decent hop chamber with a concave tensioner (good for R-Hops/Maple Leaf rubbers), a decent brass barrel and a more modern looking stock. For less than €200. Please keep in mind that a 90° trigger ALONE is about €100. Also keep in mind that the vsr creeps A LOT, so you won't need a super hard spring (an m100 gives me 1.4J on 0.4s and a 300mm barrel, I also have a massive airbrake which reduces the useable cylinder volume by a wee bit). You don't need a fancy hop chamber when you can TDC the stock one. I built mine for under €300 not counting the parts I already had/had to replace because I'm a caveman. You could get away with another base gun for cheaper, but keep in mind that you will eventually have to replace the trigger/piston (most VSRs use a 45° setup which wears out incredibly quickly once you go past 1J of muzzle energy) and in some cases the cylinder.

Nope (also tried in light mode, same result)

You can set the co2 thingy to be bolted onto a rail, check Blind Sniper on youtube for references (he does it on a vsr but the idea is the same)

No brainer choice really. TL;DR version: VSR /thread Extended version: The SRS is cool, has some nice features but apart from the hefty price tag it's rather unbalanced. The striker is absolutely ass for anything that's not a 1J build, you have zero cylinder volume to work with, it's hard to make quiet and the only sensible aftermarket parts are more expensive than the rifle (twice the price, literally). Both guns have an open bolt, which means that the nozzle and hop chamber are exposed when the action is being cocked, which can lead to debris and all sorts of nasty shit to make its way into the cylinder/hop. The good old VSR, instead, is the most versatile bolt action platform ever made. You can turn it onto whatever you want, creeps like a motherfucker so you won't need a super stiff spring, bolt pull is light, closed bolt so nothing can really get into the internals, a metric fuckton of upgrades and parts to fit any build and any budget. Very very easy to make silent, magazines are tiny, easy to store and dirt cheap.

That silly twat report button has disappeared plsfixkthxbai

No, but from what I've seen it's a piece of junk, you can't set the output pressure, to swap bulbs you need to fully disassemble the cylinder, it's just too much hassle when you could spend a bit more and get a mancraft and their co2 regulator thingy, makes life so much easier.

Maybe the bolt is not fully in battery, make sure the cylinder head is screwed in all the way.