Skara

Just bit the bullet and bought this: https://www.airsoftworld.net/tti-aap-01-cnc-pcc-kit-black.html Completely unnecessary and stupid expensive..... But it's shiny.... Someone please help 😢

So. My bank account is crying, my hammer parts finally reached my customs, and I have just ordered a TTI carbine kit from Airsoft World for € 240 ish including a super expensive UPS shipping and import fees.

Clickbait over 9000! Novritsch, is that you?

So yesterday was mainly about testing the mp5 high caps I had bought for my King Arms PDW and my general CQB/PDW specific loadout. They feed fine, but they sit a touch too snug into the magwell so I'm gonna slightly sand it wider, maybe a quarter of a millimetre per side, just to ensure they drop nicely as the magazine release is proprietary and looks ultra flimsy and I don't want to force it in any way. Gameplay itself was meh, I wasn't focused at all. But everyone didn't seem too motivated either, so I guess it was just one of those days Also when I came home i took the AK apart for the N'th time to clean the mosfet and give it a general check, ended up reshimming the bevel gear, leaving it a touch looser. Hopefully it'll run fine next Sunday.

Yup.

I don't think it has anything to do with AoE. Adolf already wrote a nice wall of text for you, I will just add that the damage on the piston could be caused by PME. Not because the gears are turning too fast for the spring to push the piston all the way forward, but most likely because of the hop jam. What (most likely) happened is that the air trapped inside the cylinder couldn't be expelled forward into the nozzle so it pushed back on the piston, either stopping it or slowing it down enough for the sector gear to pick it up at a random spot. Either way, I'm not a fan of 15t pistons, the 2nd tooth (first after the big, pick up one) is essentially useless and most aftermarket pistons already come with that tooth removed/lowered.

Yes it's normal, it's a 150mm barrel + ported cylinder after all. Due to the stupid low air volume, getting to 2+J energy is gonna be a) expensive and b) not a fun bolt pull.

Polymer is just lighter. Same strength as pot metal, you trade a slightly more "realistic" feel for comfort, since you cut about 1kg off the overall weight

I'd look at the core version tbf. Plastic body, doesn't come with a mosfet but the rest of the gun is essentially identical. And it's cheaper. Not a huge fan of metal bodies myself, it's pot metal anyway and doesn't add anything but weight to the gun. And at some point it'll start to wobble which per se isn't an issue, but it can be annoying.

I'm pretty sure you meant glock. I noticed CowCow makes a dedicated AAP set (which I ordered and still is nowhere to be seen), I have also heard that some people had similar issues with Glock hammers... Will investigate a bit, in the meantime you could ask on the FB group.

Last Sunday was somewhat interesting, 4 people in our club tested positive for the Kung Flu, and another two woke up with fever, so there were only 7 people on the field. Nonetheless we played and I had fun sneaking around plinking people in the ass with my pistols. Also took the T-11 with me but it didn't see much use apart from a couple of shots.

Hold up mate. The seal Adolf was talking about is between the nozzle and hop rubber! Maxx units require the nozzle to be of a certain length. In my M4s I use 21.3/21.4mm nozzles and they seal/feed just fine but YMMV. Also, if you're pulling 30 RPS and you have FPS drops it might be that you haven't cut the tappet plate fin: what happens is your gun cycles way too fast for the nozzle to be back in battery (fully extended into the hop rubber), shortening the tappet fin will anticipate the nozzle's release, but don't overdo it or your gun won't feed anymore (nozzle won't retract further enough to chamber bbs)

Just ordered a pair of Revision Sawfly glasses in size large to replace my Size Medium ones (I'd like to have a little bit more coverage). Also ordered a bunch of AAP internals.

Did you fix it? In the meantime I have ordered 3x CowCow sets + 2x AA CNC hammers from wgc. Two CC sets are for me, the third for a friend and the two hammers for my local retailer since he has two broken AAPs waiting for parts (and he can't find any). Also, TTI is making a new upper receiver with an integrated TDC and a M4 handguard + M4 stock threads and mounting points. Priced at about €170, it's super expensive but I think it'll just blow every other carbine kit out of the market.

I'm after a damping kit myself, but I'll most likely make my own whenever I can find silicone sheets, and buy a spare parts kit just in case. Because with my luck I'm sure I'll fuck it up right when there's a shortage of parts

Can't beat a genuine Odin. I've had a clone and it was shit, mags wouldn't lock in or they were a really tight fit (meaning I had to yank the magazine out of the loader with quite some force). Getting the airtech adapter in and out was a struggle and once the mag reached idk, 80 bbs, the handle would become super hard to crank. The genuine? Nope, not a single issue, except it's not too easy to find in this country. For pistol/vsr mags I still prefer the good old syringe style loaders though.

Today was interesting. We played in the lower part of the field (hardest one die to steepness and vegetation) which we haven't visited since last summer, vegetation had grown up exponentially, all the usual flanking paths were blocked so we had to improvise and find new ways around some of the objectives.. Games went relatively well, in one the whole attack got wiped out by a single defender and it was a rather fun scene to watch: this guy literally standing in the open spots the team, opens fire while still standing in the open and nobody saw him Could have been a very enjoyable morning if it wasn't for the many, many complaints I received about one kid who wasn't calling his hits. It's the same kid I had a couple of sketchy engagements in the recent past but didn't bother me too much, I just held onto the trigger a little longer than usual and ultimately he called it. Today though, every single game someone would come up to me saying this kid didn't call the hit, that they had seen BBs bounce off his body and this sparked a bit of tension towards the end of the day. Usually when this kind of stuff happens I just tell them to get smarter at dealing with it *ahem, just fire a slightly longer burst and maybe close the distance while doing so, pain can be an amazingly effective teacher* I guess I'll have a chat with said kid soon, he will probably deny everything but still worth a try.

Been using those (Edges) for a while, never had an issue. Mainly 0.28s. Just don't buy the Core BBs as they're reportedly low quality.

This reminds me that I need to buy an as03 at some point, just to meme around. I still have all my parts from the 02 including Peter's trigger and handle.

I'd look at the feed lips, compare the drum to your standard mags and see if there are any differences in dimension or shape.

1st game of 2022 gone, it was fun.. What isn't fun is the hole I discovered in my mayflower rig. A perfect square in one of the side pouches. No fucking clue how it happened but I'm getting it fixed tomorrow.

Well to be fair high ROF is simply a side effect of achieving fast trigger response and cycle time. I'm sure that back when MOSFETs were not a thing (and most importantly we didn't have dickheads posting on YouTube) nobody really complained about being peppered by 30 RPS guns.

Just don't go for a super tight bore, it's all marketing bollocks and 6.05s will yield much better results than 6.01s.. Oh, and if you really want to sling 0.3s, get a new hop rubber.

And that is why being forced to play in clubs is a massive plus We get to know each other relatively well and we can spot dickheads right away (and handle them properly before they cause any sort of damage).

Yup, reduces power without having to cut springs or shorten the barrel. Plus helps avoiding PME and a bunch of other benefits like faster cycle time. Just make sure you have enough air volume before getting excited with a Dremel