bitofanidiot42

I will personally find you and remove it from your possession.

Behold! The Billund Marui 1911: -Great performance out of the box -Good-feeling, high quality polymer frame and slide all the way from Denmark -Fully LEGO compatible allows for the sea of aftermarket parts to be fitted -Just don’t expect much out of a melée (warranty becomes invalid)

So it would work alright in the slide if it is cleaned and reapplied often, I guess?

I’m going to get some proper lubricant for the gun anyway, just a little curious. Also what are your opinions on silicone lubricant not being good, especially the points this guy makes. Don’t really understand it all.

On my limited budget, I have bought a second hand Army R28 in two tone blue, hoping the cheap price won’t mean cheap QC. Only sign of wear is a tiny chip on the plastic grip. I could always upgrade it when I raise my budget, it’s TM compatible.

Are there any known differences between the JG T3-K3 and the K-1 apart from the colour of the furniture?

Thanks lads, I think I’m getting a bit off topic but toy guns are so complicated… Shimming a gearbox. I know what it is but how necessary, should I do it as soon as I get a gun or only if I notice an issue with the gears’ contacts?

I think I’ve learned what I came here for. My conclusion is that a 7.4 Lipo will give a higher rpm than a 7.2 but the fps is always the same, I should probably get an m90 and hack away at the gearbox. It doesn’t matter too much for the rpm as my local site seldom allows full-auto. As for MOSFET’s, they are for high power batteries to stop the carbon hurting the gun so quickly. They can be expensive and fancy and programmable or cheaper but not absolutely necessary for a cheaper gun as replacing the trigger contacts isn’t the end of the world (although they are becoming harder to find in the U.K.).

Thanks so much, I get it now

I’m confused and my head’s spinning, my grasp on electricity is not good! Why do amps matter and not watts? Isn’t current just watts or amps? I’m probably making a fool of myself but everything I search up doesn’t seem to make sense, I just know that volts is the amount electricity that can get in and amps are how fast the electricity is flowing.

So 7.2 Nimh would give lower fps than a 7.2 lipo?

So let’s say I’m planning to get a JG T3. The only thing is that it shoots 370 where I need to get it down to sub 350. Would using a weaker battery do the same as a spring downgrade or is this lipo ‘oomph’ the fire-rate?

I also have one with 3000 mah

It turns out that my car battery is a ‘1800 mah’, ‘Ni-Mh’, and a ‘7.2 VOLT POWER PACK’. Suitable for a gun? It seems to be two sticks joined in a plastic shell

Thanks a lot guys… This is probably a bit of a dumb question but could you “half-charge” an 11.1V? With my 11.1 toy electric car, the power gradually decreases until it barely moves. So, could you just have it on a lower power?