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So, anyway... After the foreign trip I was obliged to take last year by His Majesty I've had lots of leave to use before the new tax year and I've done 3 games this year already, which puts me on track to play the most I have since about 2009 💀 After reading a fair few very good reviews I wanted to try out Dog Tag near Gatwick as I've not been before, but they weren't running this weekend so I went over the road to Driver Wood. Their site slogan should be something very 'safe' and unassuming, like 'Driver Wood, you'll definitely not have a bad time'. It was absolutely: fine. Track leading down to the entrance is the closest to a real mettled road I've ever come across, car park pretty solid. Tons of decent benches, stringent SZ protocols, big range of hot food (plus snacks) available, not a bad little airsoft shop with tons of consumables and a selections of shooters. Rather than a the standard rotund organiser/marshal shouting in an attempt to herd the pack of unruly cats they've got a tannoy system for the briefing and timings to get back in etc, gives it a very commercialised feel that's pretty strange to experience by airsoft standards. Safety brief was delivered in a tone that comes across like the bloke is sick of his job, which I do fully understand, but I also don't pay to be slightly patronised in the morning tbh 🤷‍♂️ Made me wish I'd gone back to AP. Seems it was a busy day, ~130 players. The site is big enough I'd say, but at the end of the day the main area which is used for regular airsoft play (there's various other small arenas for paintball and kids' airsoft) is mostly just a flat piece of dense pine woodland. There's enough barrel clusters and the like dotted around, but apart from the one fire break where all the old vehicles are, I found within an hour or two it's already pretty stale. They've got a few other areas that didn't fit in to the scenarios and weren't used. I say scenarios loosely, because there wasn't much to them, no opportunity for more than 1-2 people to really be involved at any one time, and since the 2 games for the day were similar and were both just reversed, the entire day was basically just 'fight over the site' (essentially no difference on attack/def other than regen point). Nobody got spawn trapped or anything, but it was a tad WW1 feeling, and not in the sense of brutal trench CQB. The one thing I really found odd was MEDs. Their rules online say 10m for auto and 0m for semi with a standard AEG, which I think makes total sense, seems like a good rule. Possibly I misheard in the morning, but what I heard was 10m minimum for any primary weapon and only sidearms or melee to be used within 10m, pretty sure I heard it again later too. Now that makes no sense to me, because sidearms and rifles have the same muzzle energy rules; one of those things that made me question my own brain a bit? It just puts a damper on all movement as if you don't have a pistol (I don't bring one unless it's definitely a requirement), then you have to 100% ensure you'll never round a corner and come upon an opposing player close up. Oh and one marshal doing chrono'ing said 0.23g BBs don't exist... Didn't see any major agro, all ran pretty smoothly, good safety all around. They actually allow some types of TAG and they sell charges and smoke to launch from 'mortars'. I saw a lot of different interesting gats and gear on people which is always fun. So I'd never say I'd never go back, but I won't rush to book again either. If you live SE and ever feel like 'I just want to play somewhere' but the sites you want aren't on or you can't get to them or whatever, it's the safety option for you. P.S. Did get very lucky in one regard, I've had an item up for sale here and an interested buyer messaged me who happened to live right nearby, which circumvented my least favourite thing about online sales i.e. when you send it off and spend the next couple of days praying RM/PF don't fuckin break it. Top bloke too, we had a lot in common.

From the looks of it one did....

Excuse my ignorance but what is a H8ers apart from a twat arguing about slow airsofters getting hit by 6mm BB's?

Am I too late to mention Nazi's or has the argument ended?

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It is your opinion that it was bad trigger discipline, not a fact, which is what you are presenting it as. What you are describing is not bad trigger discipline; it is him hitting someone who got in the way while he was shooting at legitimate targets. From his description of the incident and the diagram, I know where this happened; Mr Slow would have had plenty of opportunities to get out of the line of fire rapidly, just as I did later in the same location when I was hit. I am not "throwing shade"; you seem to be struggling to understand something that is really pretty straightforward and are lashing out by alleging dishonesty on my part. We aren't going to agree on this. Please feel at liberty to carry on replying; I have better and far more important things to do than argue this with you any more.

Yeah, should've included a reference I guess 😅 @Tackle @Galvatron thanks lads, now a sample of 4!

I have only been there once, for half a day; it was ok, verging on quite good, but I cannot summon up much enthusiasm to go there again. I think your report reflected my feelings about it better than mine did.

they’ll take very similar o-rings to the gen 1 mags - I’ve repaired all of mine using the nitrile o-rings off AliExpress. https://a.aliexpress.com/_EwqFA8M if it’s only the bases leaking, you want the 21 x 2.4mm o-rings. You can find them on AliExpress of a couple of quid for a pack of 10. They’re a b*stard to get back together as the repair o-rings are approximately 0.4mm thicker. However, so won’t leak again as the fit is so tight. alternatively you could try soaking the OEM orings in boiling water. I find this is an urban myth personally… but several people swear by it. It apparently expands the oring back to its original size.

Update.... So, these next two have been on my search list for a very long time. So, first up L131A1.... (Glock 17 gen 4) So this pistol eventually replaced the ageing L9 browning, with the gen 3 being in service with the sas before that!. Mine, is the very early fully traded and hard to find Stark Arms/VFC gen 4 glock. What makes this stand out over other brand glocks, is the markings!. So the later umarex/vfc , tm/guarder and GHK glocks, all come with the U.S glock markings. The Stark Arms comes with the correct European markings and German proof marks as found on the real L131A1. The only other brand close to this is the early WE fully traded glocks. Only issue with the WE glocks are, that the lower and upper look and marked a gen 4. But the recoil spring is still the slim Gen 3 type. I have also fitted real sights and lanyard adaptor, along with a replica QR code as also seen ok British glocks. Only thing left to do on mine is get the L131 and NSN details engraved on the lower. Top 2 pics are from the real L131 Last pic is mine. 2nd one is L104A1 (HK69) This was brought in for use in Northern Ireland to fire smoke and baton rounds. Then was later used in Iraq. And believe it still in use at the moment, as one pic was posted of it in use last year with a red dot as a rear sight. Mine is the hard to find original CAW HK69 When I got this, was sprayed all green. Took it back to normal, then weathered it. Also fitted real sights. In the process of getting some parts 3d printed to get it running again. Then looking at getting correct markings added. Top pic is of it in use. Bottom is mine.

You're not in a great spot for sites admittedly, looking at the map, Eastbourne is maybe the worst in the SE. Have to go a bit North or West to reach anywhere and weirdly there's nowhere South of that. But from Brighton you've also got UCAP GreenOps and then maybe.. 5 or so places in and around Portsmouth which is about within a reasonable journey.

I didn't realise they made a version with adjustable hop. Hows the performance vs other 'regular' pistols? Being NBB and CO2 I guess it's pretty gas efficient.

Not this one anymore 🤣

Have a butchers 😜 https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/umarex-elite-force-h8r-gen-2-co2-revolver

There is a easy but not good looking way to fix if it is just the base- Thread tape on it. It doesn't work that well for mag base hold by pins(works better on base fixed by a long screw, like WE glock mags or hicapa mags),but it still holds for a long time

An addition to my display.

Nothing too exciting, but I was trying to work out how to use my fancy Magpul MS4 sling with my Tanaka AICS (as I want to use a good quality sling on it!). One option was paracord to then loop the sling into, but then I saw these: TM L96 QD sling adapters. Ordered a set from HK and they fit wonderfully, meaning I can now just quickly swap my MS4 sling from my M40A5 over to my AICS in a matter of seconds (as the M40 stock has QD mounts as well)

That’s the end of your recoil rod. The notched bit locks into the recoil rod. The groove on the flat end is where it sits in the hop unit. Drop me a message if you need more help.

maybe I've just been spoiled with good marshals and sites

A was sat at the bar in a pub looking depressed so the barman approached and asked him what's wrong. "I had a huge argument with the wife and she said she's not talking to me for a week" replied the man. "Well at least you'll get some peace and quiet for a while" said the barman hoping to cheer him up. The man sighed, finished his drink and said "That was 7 days ago"

Yep, but unless some real harm is done, dropping guns, spitting out dummies, or stopping play mid game over a handful of stray bbs isn't gonna happen. Sure, find a Marshall & report what is perceived to be a problem, & there's 3 likely outcomes: 1. He'll chuckle & tell you that it's fast moving warfare, & shit happens. 2. He'll make an announcement before the next game, but it will warn everybody, dead men included, to be more switched on. Or 3. He'll tell you to grow a pair. Sites will favour the many over the few, financially it makes sense, even if it's morally wrong, that's why so many site have home team regulars that are impervious to hits, mag restrictions, or even chronos, money talks.

Had my first blood drawn today by an enemy sniper, called my hit and after that game I found him and congratulated him on what was actually a fantastic headshot. Two games later the same guy worked his magic and domed me almost symmetrically with with the same grace and elegance as the first time but without the blood. All in all it was a good day, sorry yours (5 years ago) was a bad one.

The old Red Jacket special. The choice of incestuous rapists

NURPOL.

Oh really? Hold on.. Bet you stripped them like a dumbass! How was that?

I stripped two gearboxes today, but at least nobody said mean things to me.

Does this count?

There's been a LOT of requests for Viva to make it into a full size Mini 14, I'd certainly say that's the better option. We'll see how open they are to changes. I've asked them to make a Bren gun for the UK market. Considering they already make a ZB26, I'm hoping they'll accommodate...

Snap

This is why I write "EN166B" on my home-made eye-pro, to ensure that it meets all safety standards.

Not so much made but modified, the G&G SR16 E2 (KS-1) comes with a QD hole in rail and as I didn't want to spend £130 on an AA rail, I filled with the milliput, sanded and painted it

Post an ad here https://airsoft-forums.uk/classifieds/category/17-guns-wanted/

I don't mind dying for the Emperor, so long as it's to His enemies.

[Team killed coming through a door] "Sorry, mate, didn't know you were red!" OK, try saying that now. [Team killed coming through a door] "Sorry, mate, didn't know you were blue!" OK, try saying that now.

Pulsar H I have seen a lot of hate towards the gate HPA systems and yes they can perform horribly if they are not setup properly so thought I would make a little post to try and help some people. I started off with a Pulsar S which I could get to work but not work well mainly with BBs curving left, right or up everything but straight as much as a raged and blamed the engine, gearbox, hop up hop rubber it ended up being the alignment. Gate seem to have a issues with the nozzles on the Gate pulsar series (not so much the D or H ) but the S has them in abundance. During the setup no matter what hop up your using make sure you are using the nozzle sleeve this just helps it keep centred a little bit better. Alignment This is the big thing with the pulsar Series the alignment has to be good there are many ways to do this, but I would recommend grabbing a cheap gearbox like a specna arms orion and tap some bolts on the left and the right hand side just below were the tappet plate runs this will help you centre the left and right of the gearbox. If you want to pull the gearbox up tighten the buffer tube, then the pistol grip. If you want to lower the gearbox tighten the pistol grip, then the buffer tube. THESE is the most important step. The pulsar H nozzle is vastly better then the standard S and gives you more room for error. When you are checking your alignment, you want to grab a small endoscope camera 6mm so you can push it down the barrel and see how the nozzle is sitting in the hop up. You want a black ring around the nozzle even on all sides. Also make sure you’re doing this with the magazine in as this could slightly change your alignment. Once you have got this figured out you are in great hands and the fine tunning on the settings for FPS is a lot easier. Settings As odd as it sounds if you’re using a gate titan or aster make sure you reset it and put the mosfet into HPA mode. For some unknown reason everyone I know has had a better tunning when they select the engine as a single solenoid engine instead of a pulsar S or H. Don’t ask me why I have no clue. Once you have set your PSI for about 1.1j on a 330mm barrel on the S I needed about 70psi on the Pulsar H due to how the nozzle and increased chamber size I needed 90psi. Fine tuning the consumption is easy and the same as all other HPA engine set the dwell time on the Pulsar H I found around the 4m/s with a refresh of around 10m/s got me a great consistency with a deviation of +/- 4fps. People have found if you are having issues with fluctuation changing the RPS to 24/25 helps to solve this. The Pulsar H is recommended to not push past 35rps, but I have been fine with either 1 with not too many issues. Hop Up and Bucking When it comes to hop up and bucking, I ran through a decent amount the main thing you want is a bucking that has a good lip as this will cause a lot of issues. The common consensus is 4auntum and MP super macron bucking are the best. Due to the extra force from the nozzle if you have a hop then has something that help stiffen the bucking lips like the silent industries this helps with consistency. Shooting anything under a 0.3g BB isn’t going to work they are too light with the force generate by the nozzle you’re more likely to get fliers. I run 0.32g or 0.36g and don’t get many if any fliers once the bucking was broken in. The hop I tried were the Gate Eon, Maxx M4e, retro arms and Silent industry alpha. They all work well if you have the alignment correct but for my gear and m4 body I found the silent industry gave me the best consistency, hop and deviation then any other setup up whilst using the MP super macaron bucking. From a 3000 48ci tank I’m easily able to get 3000 shots if not more and they will be spamming the trigger in binary and auto. So, a full day of shooting it going to be easy depending on your playstyle. So, it’s efficient and once you have the alignment setup properly you have a good engine that does have its quicks as it does play up a little bit in the winter. Verdict From a stand point of setup this is by fair the worst wolverine, polarstar f2 and jack or even the backdraft are all easy to setup and align mainly down to they just having better nozzles but the stand out feature is the mosfet being able to update all features on the fly and having more options then the stand hpa fet does set it apart ( can still suffer from the same issues ). I would learn towards another brand but if you are upgrading from a Pulsar S the H is a lot better to install and deal with then the pulsar s. If Gate spent some time fixing the issue with the nozzle that allowed for easier alignment and slowed down the beta release of software and had more stable releases the pulsar system would be fantastic but until then would really recommend if your already in the ecosystem with a S then the H is worth the upgrade if you just getting into HPA go for the wolverine, N7, Polarstar and deal with less issues.

So after searching high and low for years, earlier this year I managed to get my hands on this S&T sterling. Formally known as the L2A3 SMG. But got alot of bits to do to get this looking reasonable. So have managed to source a genuine sling and rear cap (not fitted yet). I plan on having the rear end worked on to look more correct along with rear cap machined down slightly. The charging handle/bolt will be getting engraved along with an extra strip of metal at an angle to replicate how the real bolt looked. It also needs cutting down at the rear, as is way..... too long. I'm looking at getting a large spring welded and cut. This will replicate the real spring, while making way for the rear of the gearbox while still leaving working space for the battery. Engravings and stamps need adding to the top of the magwell. Then will be getting repainted as crap as I can. As real one, the paint would just flake off in areas. Some people will say that they had a weird wrinkled effect. And you do see these on deacts. But after doing some research, these were actually civilian/export versions sent out on MoD orders to commonwealth countries. I have been told a few did make they're way on to British armouries. But have no image proof, only hearsay on another forum. But there is a lot of controversy over the manufacturing of the sterling and the rights to produce. And was infact produced in 2 different factories. One was the original factory at the Sterling engineering plant in dagahnam. Second was the Royal Small Arms Factory Fazakerley in Liverpool. But will spare the history lesson for now. Next up, is a bit of a rarity. this is an original Deepfire M72 Law. Th British designation is the L1A1 66mm. The real one was used for some years, till late 90s. Then when afghan kicked off, was brought back into service. But with a more modern and updated version of it. (L1A3). Mine requires a bit of work. Some of the screws holes need addressing/re taping. And the rubber has perished on the fire button. I have removed some of the older Deepfire stickers. And replaced with newer more accurate stickers.

Ok, so my Ares M4 suffered terminal gearbox failure. Even though it hasn't been used a lot in its 4 years, the monkey metal used in the original shell has disintegrated around the cylinder head. I emailed Ares for prices for a new shell, came back as 73USD posted, plus customs and admin fees when it arrived no doubt. As I wanted to keep the repair as cheap as possible, coupled with my doubts the new Ares shell would survive any longer than the original, made me seek an alternative. The options available were: 1) to buy a standard V2 shell and swap the Ares internals into it; problem here being the Ares trigger / microswitch won't fit into a standard shell designed for standard switch parts, also the spring guide is different as the Ares box has a QD spring guide; 2) buy a complete V2 gearbox such as the ZCI or Specna Arms ones which can be had for around £50; However Forum member ak2m4 suggested a third option; a ZCI shell which is essentially a clone of the Ares shell design, and comes with trigger, microswitch and wiring, plus spring guide. Costing £30 this seemed the best value option so one was ordered from his website with a couple of other bits. Great value and great service too! The shell is a budget one but seems pretty well cast in fairness. The original Ares 8mm bearings and bushings dropped in fine, I had to remove a couple of the Ares shims to get the gears turning freely in the new shell. Whilst apart I fitted a new "Core" vented bearing piston head (I always fit a bearing piston head or bearing spring guide to my gearboxes to remove spring torque) and fitted the cylinder / cylinder head / piston / tappet plate / air nozzle. No fiddling about with the trigger and switch required, they're already in the new shell and deceptively simple in design, as is the selector plate and safety (which worried me slightly initially). All that was needed was to reroute the wiring as its fitted for a rear set up, but my gun needs a front wired arrangement. After a check everything was in place, and a relube, the gearbox was closed up, the spring and spring guide fitted and tested for free movement and function, as per the pic below. The Ares pistol grip and motor were then fitted and the whole assembly tested electrically, and hey presto, all worked perfectly, safety, single shot and full auto! I was advised by Pete (ak2m4) some minor filing may be needed; I found I did have to file a tiny amount where the hop unit locates in the front of the shell as it wasn't quite "round", and a little casting flash from on top ot the shell where the 2 halves meet, plus open the holes out slightly where the small receiver pin passes through the gearbox above the trigger but nothing else otherwise. Time will tell how it stands up to use but I'm pleased to have fixed my M4 at fairly low cost AND been able to retain the quick release spring feature, and it still fires around the original velocity of 325FPS. I would particularly like to thank (and plug) Forum member Pete (ak2m4) for bringing the ZCI shell to my attention, his website www.ak2m4.co.uk is full of useful parts at reasonable prices.

A variation on a theme.