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He needs the 4x magnifier just to see the red dot

since I was doing stuff, thought I best get around to sorting out a pistol case.

Fuck me.... Can I not have a day off?

That’s a fair assumption, but I less inclined to say it’s morons Morons will always be morons I’m more inclined to say that it’s irrelevant as to whether a sites underlying membership is free or paid - I am of course reading between the lines as @veylo has opted to message the site asking about renewing three seperate times - either they are impatient or it implies to me that they might not use the site, because otherwise they could ask when there They of course might be playing the site but don’t play enough in relation to the newer paid membership. In this case it’s the sights policy now to have paid membership, and UKARA is a central registry of site memberships Even when sites process membership and UKARA validation for free, it’s not just their admin time but they have to maintain site membership themselves at a cost The UKARA was born out of a need to cover the retail industry under the VCRA, but also to hopefully give the participating sites a regular customer base - if that worked for the site then it’s probably worth a free membership scheme, if it’s no longer working then they can choose other options such as paid membership

Que the age old butcher joke... I got fired for sticking my c*^k in the bacon slicer, OMG, what did they do with the bacon slicer? She got fired too.

The declared values are nominal, without any load applied. The actual RPM under load depends on a lot of factors, spring rating, gear ratio, shimming, ETU, wire gauge, battery voltage, battery current and so on. Generally it's impossible to achieve 100% efficiency to the declared value unless said value is not true. For example my 36k warheads are 25k nominal on 7.4v but the actual RPM under load is closer to 20k rpm. Most ETUs control the rate of fire by sending semi auto impulses at different frequencies which, as Lozart mentioned, doesn't affect the actual cycle time of the motor/gearbox. For example, if your gun cycles in 25 milliseconds (netting a FA rof of 40 RPS), full auto at 50% won't make the gun cycle in 50 milliseconds, but rather cut the cycles in half (so 25 millisecond cycle, 25 millisecond delay, 25 millisecond cycle and so on to achieve a "finished" rate of fire of 20 RPS).

And stop posting them in random rooms ?

How you think he got that username?

I feel like I'm running after a toddler, as it's flinging it's own shit around the house

I use 1980s style towelling headbands, and as you say, rotate through 3 of them. This is specifically what they were designed for (also good for Jane Fonda impression loadouts). Visor spray, Cat-Crap, Revision wipes, all help. Dual pane helps too, like Pyramed iForce or rebranding, or DIY dual panes made with PETG sheet and 2mm or 3mm double sided foam tape. Ultimately though, the only thing that really works for me is fan ventilation. Googles with a small built in fan, or DIY fans and ducting work for me, or there's Ex-Fog, the Novritsch equivalent, or you could try a cheap generic one for £21 delivered from AliExpress. Although when my dodgy fan wiring failed last time, I just switched to mesh goggles and, wow, problem solved.

Ventilation, ventilation, ventilation! (and some anti fog). On my mesh masks I trim some of the vertical (or horizontal) bits of wire out, it just reduces the amount of wire giving protection and increases the size of the holes for the moisture to escape through. I have had some face shots still "hit me", but nothing compared with not wearing a mask. I also glued a bit of rubbery type material to the inside of it at the top so it causes a "seal" against my face, this way the hot, moist air from my breath goes forward and out, not up to the inside of my glasses. I then don't wear any scarfs/neck buff things, everything I can to get sweat to evaporate. If I am wearing a helmet, a couple of buffs cut in half to absorb the sweat, I say a couple because I keep the spare dry ones in my pockets and I then change these when respawning or between games if I am very sweaty. This also stops any sweat from my head etc running down and adding to my problems. Always use anti fog coating on the inside of my glasses. I use the Bob hopes visor spray for motor bike riders, I have heard some people say they felt it damaged their glasses, but I run cheap Bolle Siliums from screwfix which I generally replace every 6 months or so (so I am not bothered, works for me). I reapply at lunch and religious about doing it before the game starts. If it still fogs, I find just moving the glasses a couple of mms away from my face helps with the air flow around them too (this is rare and isn't enough to cause a safety issue).

Gave in and back ordered a VFC AK74M GBBR from Tiger111HK. Meant to be early March restock, wonder when it will actually be restocked ?

Right, if you're after a "normal" rate of fire and using 18:1 gears (which is what will be in the gun to start with by the way), you won't be running the gun so fast as to be experiencing the issue in that video. (for anyone else https://youtu.be/2vRmh9UTsSU?si=nHgoCniiX9LoE5ve ) Hop up you can do whenever, it isn't going to affect things like trigger response and rate of fire. It may well affect your power because the Maxx hop units are notorious for fitment and alignment issues and may need a different nozzle to match up with it. I'd say either do it first before you fuck about with the gearbox and see if it works OK with the nozzle or do it AFTER the gearbox so as not to introduce a problem that may throw you off something wrong with your tappet timing. I'd do etu first, then the motor, then the gears IF it needs it.

Yes....and no. The issues with pre-engagement will still be there if the gears are cycling too quickly, adding a delay to it won't help. In answer to your "what should I use" question, have you actually tried it with the stock gears and the 11.1v battery yet? Do that, swap the motor for the brushless and try it again. If it's still not quick enough, try a set of 16:1 gears (preferably a decent set like XT or SHS). Make sure you shim the gearbox properly or you risk it failing. Don't just throw the bits all in at the same time because if you run into a problem, you won't know what caused it. Go slowly and change one thing at a time. With the best will in the world, you are unlikely to turn a £150 rif into a £400 one by throwing loads of cheap parts at it, but you will (hopefully) learn how a gearbox works and have some fun along the way. Just don't set your expectations too high and you'll be fine.

Rate of fire control on a Mosfet just adds a delay into the cycle time, it doesn't affect the speed of the motor.

Yes, the original is back on it.

If you looked at your previous posts you'd see that you've already been told where to post the adverts

I like the way that you think, using the depth rather than laying things flat with miles of foam deep below

My CQB loadout Photo courtesy of Brockys images

Buddy, before you annoy users on here at midnight with offers, best make sure the item you are DM’ing them about wasn’t sold 4 years ago like my Glock you just DM’d me about the orange banner that says “Listing Completed” means it’s SOLD ya plum! ?

I find selling body parts is easier if they're not your own

From his old profile I think I might've met him in person once along with the ex. If it was him I remember getting the impression he was a twat and the mrs didn't seem too happy with him

If only there was a part of the forum dedicated to sales. It could even be broken up into sections depending on what people want to sell

Bugger, I was going to offer £4.50

Just before it gets locked…

"Due to lack of interest locally.." It ain't just local, mate.

Today's selection, used at Driver Wood this morning to good effect.

As you may guess, I like my AKs.... Top to bottom... Arcturus AK12 Arcturus AK74 Custom TM Recoil AK74 WellPro PPK20 E&L AK AKMS Specna Arms AK with.... A few external mods..

Nothing special, but this is my eldest son's old SRC MP5 that he gave me when he gave up airsoft several years ago. It had a "Navy" style lower and selector, which I really disliked. This morning, I decided to install a Perun Hybrid; having done that, I started wondering if I could fettle one of my spare Classic Army lowers to fit. I could; after some minor surgery, everything aligns well and it functions perfectly. A well spent morning.

April release. https://www.octagonairsoft.com/product-page/king-arms-fal-aeg-full-length-ver-2

Three MWSs. The mk12 is semi-locked and run as a DMR, but the others are 1.14J with the fun switch and no MED. Got a carry handle + 4x repro colt scope and the relevant handguards for if I want to turn the m16a4 into an a1 (Vietnam filmsim) or a2 (90s filmsim). I don't care if the Hogue grip isn't period accurate, A2 pistol grips suck and I hate them Outside my m700s, these are the other guns I tend to use a lot. I like my gas guns!

Always ugly, the brute AK

The folding stock fetish continues..

Literally just a stock TM (thing's great).

Just lining in my new F90 and a couple of moves due to displaced RIF's.

Me too ? I know there are plenty of others out there with better collections tho.

I have some tasteful MP5s..

Just waiting on my Brownells order to arrive for a Hogue AR-15 grip, but I told you it wouldn't be an M4A1 for long... Easy enough to swap it around to being a near-enough A1 or A2, and had the m203 for about 15 years now but it never goes on anything (and probably won't, but I figured I'd include it because it could). Internal upgrades are a Stalker 510mm inner barrel that goes all the way to the flash hider, Flamingo 50d hop rubber, Jaeger Precision titan nub and NPAS. Same setups as my other MWSs so it should perform really nicely (different barrel lengths though, and a 60d in the mk12 because that's a DMR)

Fifty Shades of Beige

? My pair of Glock 45s:

Love this wee thing shoots sooo good outta the box I just wish I was a good enough player to actually get close enough to the opposition to warrant getting it out of the holster! In a year of ownership, I think it’s claimed 3 hits! My fault, not its

I really didn't like how my wall looked in the pics above so I spent some time today fixing it. Still need to find a place for a G36C, Scar-L both two tones that I'll rattle can some day & an M4 I'll just put behind my Mk18mod1.

Decided to make some space for the toys I've just got and those that will come in the future, first pic is the before. HK416A5 & T3 MC51 missing as they're packed up for playing tomorrow. The wall looks so bare now ?, not sure I like it TBH but until I get bigger walls it'll have to do. Every cloud has a silver lining tho... I had to tidy my mancave to do the move & take the pics. ?

Tomorrow promises to be a rainy day, so I'm going to play while it's dry, but test and set things up when it starts raining. Got the MTW to properly set up now, as well as... this newly acquired and tidied up pre-ban Tanaka m700 AICS. Spent the morning scrubbing it down with rubbing alcohol to remove cobwebs and dust, and bathing a bunch of parts in WD-40 to get the rust off, then putting in a few upgraded parts (Action Army hop unit and nub, Flamingo 60d hop rubber, Stalker 570mm inner barrel). I'll take my single HPA-tapped mag for testing, and I've borrowed a post-ban bolt from my other Tanaka m700 to test this until I get an extended nozzle in the pre-ban bolt. I've set up stock alerts for some L96 bipod adapters / bipods, but my plan to put a suppressor on it failed though. I might try modifying an Action Army outer barrel (just needs two tapped holes drilled into it), but in all likelihood I'll just keep it as is. It's a lovely piece!

My Sheriff Spas 12. Semi-auto version, fully functional. The rarest production airsoft shotgun in the world.

Arcturus AK12K NVG night fighting set up

Complete Guarder Steel G34. Built this from nothing with almost entirely steel parts. Went with a TTI hop unit as they’re substantially better than the OEM style hops. I plan on using this for CQB games, so it has tritium sights as well.

Update! I ordered M3 screws that were 8mm thinking they would be long enough but where too long so I cut them down slightly, they sit in a bit more providing more depth. Looking at the original screw the thread is demolished which is odd from factory. The picture left is the old one, the right is the new one. I’m going to replace both then test for a game day see if the thread gets destroyed on the new ones as well