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Messenger_creation_CBAAB4DA-DE45-45CE-B172-377A4123F6F0.mp4

Hmmm... We're all one team (oh wait, we're airsofters) We're two teams (oh wait) We're dozens of individuals with the same objective (oh wait) We're dozens of individuals with our own objectives (that's better).

If you're gonna tease us like that you could at least wear a bikini.

I'm a big believer in when it comes to quality products, tm guns & Honda cars & bikes for example, great products with excellent r&d, they need to be left alone until something actually breaks. They invest a LOT in getting it right, who are we to think we can improve that ???????

He's built himself a Trigger's-Broom-01 ?

Next up Colt model 715 Colt model 725 Model 715, later known as the Diemaco C7 This is more well known for use by the SAS during GW1. But the later variant is also used by path finders, paras and royal marines. What makes this stand out is the fact it has Colt export markings, an A1 style rear sight, yet an A2 brass deflector. Upper is refered to as the M16A1E1 upper. Other thing is that it has an A2 style lower with full auto. The U.S versions originally only came with the burst option. My build uses a G&P M733 Upper along with a very old discontinued Guarder m16 civilian lower. As all other airsoft m16 lowers are either A1 types or marked Burst. For GBBR, VFC do the correct Type body to achieve this. But a pain like me if sticking to AEG. Has a steel barrel and front sight. Has a real m203 upper and quadrant sight. Still on the look out for the old school A2 metal trap door butt plate. Also Both my 715 and 725 bodies have had the serial numbers stamped and marked on upper and bolt the same as on a UK issued C7s, referenced here by Jonathan at royal armouries. C7 Heres a version of my later 715/C7 as issued to the paras and RM. Model 725, later known as Diemaco C8 This version is very close to the Colt 723, but the 725 was made by diemaco. Also has the same upper as the 715 (M16A1E1) My build is a G&P M733 body, which at the moment is incorrect as its an A1 style lower with the auto markings, when it needs to be an A2 style lower same as the 715 above. So will stay as it is till I get a blank lower engraved. Also got a steel barrel & front sight. Real slim AR handguard, Old school metal stock and HAO Diemaco locking ring

People think that a better* gun will make them a better player i guess. Like most things, the gun's capability usually exceeds the shooter's ability. *better in theory anyway.

That looks awesome. ?? (I want one now..) (Gonna cost a fortune.) (This is all your fault.)

Don't you love those noob posts, "just ordered my first gun, play my first game next week, what upgrades should I get" ?‍♂️?

£135 to fit an aster? ?

Nobody wants to see that!, trust me.

Question for me is, why do people come in to the game and end up thinking that? I'd say it's a combo of social media influenzas and the good old phenomena of retailers marking their spare parts section as 'Upgrades' when it should actually say 'Sidegrades and/or downgrade after you've messed with your gun'.

If you're going to be doing any electrical work, a multimeter is a must. It takes all the guesswork out of it.

https://www.usedairsoft.co.uk/custom-equipment/new-aap01-upper-hop-unit-barrel_i72206 https://www.usedairsoft.co.uk/custom-equipment/aap01-lower-frame-only_i72207 https://www.usedairsoft.co.uk/custom-equipment/new-aap01-trigger-mechanism_i72210 AAP-01 Upper, hop unit, inner barrel, trigger and lower frame for £90 or you can spend £80 and get the damn thing brand new, complete with a magazine. https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/action-army-aap-01-assassin-gbb-pistol?fv=14745

Nope, never. Trouble is, like AEGs, GBBRs are prone to people fiddling with them. Leave em alone till they go wrong. TM GBBRs are excellent straight out of the box.

I am 100% there just to shoot people. (My memory/attention span doesn't last long enough for the game briefing.)

So after searching high and low for years, earlier this year I managed to get my hands on this S&T sterling. Formally known as the L2A3 SMG. But got alot of bits to do to get this looking reasonable. So have managed to source a genuine sling and rear cap (not fitted yet). I plan on having the rear end worked on to look more correct along with rear cap machined down slightly. The charging handle/bolt will be getting engraved along with an extra strip of metal at an angle to replicate how the real bolt looked. It also needs cutting down at the rear, as is way..... too long. I'm looking at getting a large spring welded and cut. This will replicate the real spring, while making way for the rear of the gearbox while still leaving working space for the battery. Engravings and stamps need adding to the top of the magwell. Then will be getting repainted as crap as I can. As real one, the paint would just flake off in areas. Some people will say that they had a weird wrinkled effect. And you do see these on deacts. But after doing some research, these were actually civilian/export versions sent out on MoD orders to commonwealth countries. I have been told a few did make they're way on to British armouries. But have no image proof, only hearsay on another forum. But there is a lot of controversy over the manufacturing of the sterling and the rights to produce. And was infact produced in 2 different factories. One was the original factory at the Sterling engineering plant in dagahnam. Second was the Royal Small Arms Factory Fazakerley in Liverpool. But will spare the history lesson for now. Next up, is a bit of a rarity. this is an original Deepfire M72 Law. Th British designation is the L1A1 66mm. The real one was used for some years, till late 90s. Then when afghan kicked off, was brought back into service. But with a more modern and updated version of it. (L1A3). Mine requires a bit of work. Some of the screws holes need addressing/re taping. And the rubber has perished on the fire button. I have removed some of the older Deepfire stickers. And replaced with newer more accurate stickers.

Try getting in touch with TheCageAirsoft. They'll let you post in your RIF and their prices are good when I used them last in 2023 - they only charged me £67 labour for what amounted to a complete overhaul of my stock MP5 - I provided the majority of parts required. Nothing wrong with shopping around for better quotes.

Ah, yeah. you got £170 spare?

@ButcherBill @Austeyr The price includes the aster also and no i cannot install it. As proven by today haha. But you feel the price is good? As I dont know much about prices of tec stuff. Many thanks

The precision nub isn't compatible with the DE without signicantly modifying the arm. I just swapped back to an omega nub, which works perfectly.

I believe the AA version is pretty much a clone of the WE G36. If that's the case there is (from memory) a spring and ball detent fitted to each selector lever. The selectors can be removed easily enough , well worth checking to see if stronger springs would help. Parts breakdown of the WE below.

Oh I'm guilty as well, but the only gun (out of literally dozens I've tinkered with) I've made worse by my tinkering also happened to be my most expensive build in my MTW, and I'm still salty about that being the one that decided to buck the trend; I've sent it off to get essentially factory reset and will be a lot more careful this time around. However I will agree. For what most people want their guns to do and how well most guns perform out of the box nowadays, there isn't much need to upgrade anyway. Only reason I tweaked my MWS setups was because one is a DMR and the others I wanted to use .32s as that's my go-to 1.1J weight (and owning 3 MWSs I'm pretty good on tweaking them...), but out of the box on .28s they perform pretty well and shouldn't run hot unless you put gas in them that will cause the parts to shatter anyway.

Some time next year there'll quite possibly be at least one AEG retail option show up I'd imagine, there's already at least 1 MWS kit I've seen. Obviously anyone who wants a project can get a lot to sink their teeth in to with these, but if you just want a 403 for the lowest cost vs spending a lot of time and money on a build, I feel like the very end of 2024 could be a risky time to start (speaking more to the lurkers here, I know you like building stuff @Anonymoose).

Is it new or used? If used, the detent might be gummed up and not giving a positive feel. Otherwise possibly a case of opening up the lower and trigger group to add a better detent, but that's not straight forward. Example: Those little "bumps" are detents for the fire selector on a Glock 18c.

I'm terrible for this, i modify everything. I just don't ask for input before i dive into it.. My guns have all either been modified, or are waiting for parts. Even stuff that you can't really modify ends up at the sharp end of the lathe or mill. When i worked at the AA i was always getting in trouble for modifying my equipment. Everything from my van to my battery tester and even my hi-vis..

The Perun ETU++ is a definite upgrade; however, before replacing stuff it might be wise to check the continuity of the cabling and, in particular, your soldering if you have a multimeter or can get access to one.

It is though, tbf Awesomly Intimidating ?

If you can find a holster that can attach to molle (or are prepared to make it attach with paracord or cable ties or what-not) then I'd recommend a thigh panel as a compromise between belt and drop-leg. I find these ideal in both height and security for mounting, as you say, an SMG sized gat. Real-pretend world example (just add holster).

Merry Christmas all, I hope Santa filled up all your stockings

Clearance takes as long as it takes I had a belt & mag pouches take two weeks to clear customs - one week to assess charges the first time, but not release it and another week to reassess customs charges (if I recall correctly the final amount was slightly less than the first price I had been quoted on the phone)

L115A3 This is the ARES AW338 spring version. It's all pretty much standard at the moment, needs some work internally. Externally I managed to source the correct flash hider for this. The brand is calibre, and had to order from abroad. But never heard or seen them since. I know ARES did do one similar for their Stryker range, but the dimensions made it look fatter than it should. I was also led to believe the AW338 barrel is slightly thinner than that of the stryker, leaving their flash hider too loose a fit. I've added extra serial number stamps on the bolt and handle as is done on the real thing. Managed to source the correct Type scope mount, and a replica S&B scope. Then I've had a dovetail to picatinny scope mount 3D printed, correct to the real one. Now at this stage, it is just a prototype. And still working on the finer details. Other part 3D printed, is the L115A3 45° STIC NVG rail. This Is clipped into the front of the rifle as per the real thing. Both parts have been painted an aluminium colour. Then sprayed over with black. Worn back around the edges, giving the illusion it's metal. As I have based this off of L115s in Afghanistan. Most rifles seen were covered in tan SCAPA tape at the time, with some individuals adding some extra colour/camo to their rifles. Similar to those seen on the earlier issued L96 at the beginining of the OP herricks in afghan. Mine is a replication of that, covered in SCAPA, and the paint scheme similar to that of a family members. Also added ranging marks as also seen on sides of the rifles at the time.

Not 100% finished yet as I'm waiting for a couple of parts but thought I'd share the progress so far of my KS-1. how it started.

If the way you mostly enjoy the game is going for the objectives and trying to win, then a gun with comparatively tiny mag capacity and a more significant logistical train won't help. But if you just enjoy being out and pew pewing at folks and everything else be damned, then the more realistic gun will add a lot to that (though maybe not so much in the winter..) Looking at your specific personal situation, I don't think 1 AEG and 1 GBBR is necessarily the best move. To me, that's a lot of extra shizzle to cart along to every game with mags and power sources not being compatible between your 2 guns. Some people will find that totally worth it of course. The pendulum has massively swung on the whole GBB rifle thing of course and right now it's all the way on the gas side, but I think 2 decent AEGs makes the most sense for playing this game, a base line as it were. Especially if said 2 RIFs can share mags, batteries and BBs.

Couldn’t help myself I had to ask him, didn’t I ?

Source "Trust the bro I trusted, bro."

Firstly why are you using a Tamiya connector with a 11.1v LiPo??? They are not good for a decent connection. Use Deans or XT The key to soldering is using flux which helps the solder flow but I understand you might not want to buy some just for occasional use. Using 11.1v means a lot of power (relatively of course) so I suggest re-heating the welds until it all melts together properly and doesn't have blobs sticking out. You can hold the iron on for 10-20seconds to get things heated properly (hold the plug with pliers) Its also important to insulate each connection properly because if they touch you'll get a fire or explosion. Shrink wrap tubing is cheap and easy to use (remember to put the piece on before soldering)

I turned a .50 storage box into a foam container for my pistol magazines.

If you cut groves in the pipe the shrapnel won't do as much damage.

Looks great mate, what's the worst that could happen ?